Antananarivo.
Your next chapter?

Overview

Antananarivo (AN-tan-AN-ah-REEV-oo) (City of a Thousand), also known as Tana, is the capital and largest city of Madagascar. It has more universities, nightclubs, art venues, and medical services than any other city on the island. Major historic landmarks and attractions in the city include the reconstructed royal palaces and the Andafiavaratra Palace, the tomb of Rainiharo, Tsimbazaza Zoo, Mahamasina Stadium, Lake Anosy, four 19th-century martyr cathedrals, and the Museum of Art and Archaeology.

Understand

A city of some 1.6 million people at 1280 m, Antananarivo became established by Merina King Andrianjaka around 1610, when he drove out the Vazimba people to create the Kingdom of Imerina. First called Analamanga, the city was renamed Antananarivo, meaning city of the thousand, later by King Andriamasinavalona, in honor of his soldiers. After a period of French rule starting in 1897 and a failed armed rebellion in 1947–1948, the city and country emerged as independent in 1960. Merina and other Malagasy people along with Chinese, Indian, and Europeans live in the city today.

Antananarivo has a mountainous temperate climate, despite being situated in the tropics, due to its high elevation of 1,300–1,400 m (4,265 to 4,593 ft) above sea level. Antananarivo receives practically all of its average annual 1,400 mm (55.1 in) of rainfall between November and April. The dry season between May and October is pleasant and sunny, although somewhat chilly, especially during the nights, and in the mornings and evenings. Although frosts are rare in Antananarivo, they are common at higher elevations. The daily and monthly temperature variations are quite small. Means range from 22.2 °C (72.0 °F) to 15.3 °C (59.5 °F).

Get in

Antananarivo is the main entry point for Madagascar by air. International flights to the capital are covered in the main Madagascar page.

There are two ATMs: MCB (Mastercard and Visa) and BFV-Société Générale (Mastercard and Visa) — in the international terminal. There are 24 hour exchange windows inside the international terminal and outside of the airport in a separate building adjacent to the parking lot.

It will take a half hour in the late evening and early morning to reach the city center, and usually more than an hour during other times when the roads are congested; if you are transiting through Tana overnight, consider a hotel near the airport.

You need to take two seats: one for you and one for your bag (if you can't/don't want to balance it on your lap for an hour). Look for the mini buses with a big red D sign on them.

Tsara Car Rental. Provides airport shuttle service with shared ride or private; 1–7 passengers aboard van.

For travelling by road, there are three options: a private vehicle hire, a scheduled bus service or taxi brousse (bush taxi).

Vehicles can be hired through various agencies in Antananarivo. Individuals that work as freelance driver-guides will also approach you while you walk around in the streets or sit in a café. You may need to sign a "contract" to be shown to police officers that may stop the car at checkpoints along the road. It is allowed to check the technical state of the vehicle before you agree.

There are several companies that operate scheduled bus services between Antananarivo and larger towns of Madagascar.

Besady Plus buses to Nosy Be and Sainte Marie Via Ambanja and Toamasina. Tickets includes sea transfer. All Besady Plus buses have free Wi-Fi and go on time. Malagasycar Transport Premiere Classe or . Antananarivo from Mahajanga Ambanja (Ankify port nosy be) Casycar VIP Transport has 5 seat cars going from Antananarivo to Antsirabe. They depart 6 times a day from Hotel Chalet des roses in Antananarivo city center. Saves you having to get a taxi out to the bus terminal.

The taxis-brousses link the capital to most other towns and depart from four major bus stations, which roughly correspond to the points of the compass, i.e. the northern bus station includes destinations such as Nosy Be and Antsiranana (Diego-Suarez), while the eastern one (Gare Routiere de l'est) has destinations such as Andasibe. If you don't know which one you need ask a taxi driver to take you to the right one for your location.

On arrival to the station you will be mobbed by touts trying to sell the services of every destination and route. Don't be intimidated as they do this to all arrivals to the station, local and tourist alike; rather look for a vehicle that seems reliable to you and which is almost full. Most stations are lined with ticket kiosk with signs overhead advertising their locations. You can also ask to be dropped off on route before the final destination. After buying your ticket, the bus may not leave for a long time, as they will only leave when full. Try to avoid the back row of seating, this generally has the least leg room; you may buy an extra ticket (i.e. three tickets for two persons) if you want to have more space.

The colonial central station, , is located on Arabe Rainibertsimisaraka, at the northwestern end of Avenue de l'Independence. It has been converted into a small shopping mall as it sees no or very little passenger traffic. If the train to Toamasina runs, then it is not a mode of transport but an adventure for the lovers of rail transportation. Inquire at the decent Café de la gare.

Get around

The city centre is focused on Avenue de L'Independence. Restaurants and shops line both sides of the road and it's the place to go if you want to visit a restaurant or decent cafe, including a good pizzeria and a take-away pizza restaurant. There are also internet cafes and photo-printing facilities.

There are three main methods of navigating the capital: taxi, bus and on foot. Taxis are preferred by most tourists and can be found easily. Expect to be quoted 5,000 Ar for a short ride in town and 20,000 Ar for a longer ride; a one-way trip to the airport will be 40,000–60,000 Ar. 60,000 at night. A taxi can be hired for half a day or a day, expect to be quoted 150,000 Ar for half a day. You can bargain. That traffic tends to be heavy in Analakely (Antananrivo's centre and busiest area) during typical rush hour times, allow for extra time if you need to pass that area on your way to the airport. Taxi-bes typically are old and smoky Mercedes-Benz TN that go along a defined, numbered route. If you are comfortable being squeezed onto a van with other people, the buses, or Taxi-be, are the most affordable form of transportation, with prices around 600 Ar. There is no plan of the route system, nor is there a timetable, only locals use Taxi-be. While the city is quite large, Analakely is fairly navigable on foot. Prepare for a slalom around market stalls, cars, holes and other obstacles, don't carry anything you need, in particular valuables.

See

The city is really attractive and a photographers dream. The architecture is a mix of French countryside and Indonesia. Rice paddies scattered all over the city add a brilliant green to the pastel terracotta of the buildings.

Rova. Royal palace complex and former residence of the rulers of the Merina Kingdom. A cab ride (or very long walk) from the hotel district, but be warned that it has been severely fire damaged by suspected arson in the late 1990s, and only the stone shell remains, together with some outbuildings, statues and a chapel (the latter rebuilt with American money). Inte and then native Tana guides (usually university students with good English or French) may give a good account of the Rova's features in return for a gratuity. The site offers good panoramic views of the city. While walking up the hill towards the palace you may be told by local guides that the Rova is shut for the day and to follow them elsewhere to a different attraction but the likelihood is that the gate will be open as normal.

Prime Minister's Palace. The palace of the prime minister during the reigns of the last queens is now a museum with an exhibition of precious items saved from the fire of the Rova in 1995, such as the red jacket of Radama I, the royal coral jewels, various royal portraits and the diadem of the last queen.

Lemurs' Park. A conservation park established by a French-Japanese charity which hosts mostly lemurs rescued from illegal captivity or attempted smuggling. It aims at reintroducing a part of their animals into their natural habitat. Over 6000 trees have been planted in this 5 hectare park preserving a lot of important flora and fauna of Madagascar. The park gives an opportunity to see at close range a variety of lemurs, which would be much more difficult in one of Madagascar's National Parks or in a Western zoo. Apart from lemurs, it has chameleons, turtles and several species of birds. The park also gives valuable employment to graduates from the local university as guides and free tours to local school children. Taking a guide is compulsory. Carry local cash as they do not accept cards. There is no public transport back from the park (taxi-brousses into town are mostly full when they pass here), so hire a taxi for the round trip; the park also offers the service of picking you up in town (see webpage).

Croc Farm. Located on more than 3 hectares of plants, trees and flowers of Madagascar. You can watch the crocodiles, 80 other species of animals (turtles, snakes, lemurs...) and the smallest chameleon in the world. The best time to see crocodiles in action is during feeding time. And for the brave, the Croc'Farm restaurant preparing several crocodile meat dishes and favorite dish is the "Croc burger". As the park also breeding crocodile for leather goods, you'll find in the shop belts, bags but also the Malagasy crafts.

Botanical and Zoological Garden of Tsimbazaza. Zoo and herbarium with animal skeletons on display too.

Cathedrale catholique d Andohalo. Cathedral with a big statue of Mary that was built in 1890.

Museum of Art and Archaeology. kind of small.

Independence Avenue. A lane and main shopping street with several hotels, restaurants and offices. There is a nearby national monument that commemorates the events of the Malagasy Uprising against French colonial rule in 1947.

Do

Jean Be Tours. Jean Be Tours is a concierge travel guide service. The owner Jean is an experienced tour guide for Madagascar who speaks English and French. On individually organized trips, one can meet local people, take photographs and collect souvenirs and memories.

Mada-Liberté Off Road Motorcycle Tours in Madagascar (4WD Off Road Tours).

Buy

Shops line both sides of Avenue de L'Independence. Shops for the Maki and Baobab clothing brand shops can be found a few streets away. The main attraction for this area is the large central market (Aanalakey Market), which includes a covered section selling bags, jewellery and clothing at relatively cheap prices (remember to haggle). Outside there's a plethora of fruit, vegetable and spice stalls, where large packs of vanilla pods can be bought. If you do not want to bargain then try Lisy, a collection of shops with similar produce to the market at excellent prices.

Analakely Market. Central market with lots of fruits, local artifacts, unique souvenirs, etc. Be careful for your personal belongings.

Outside the centre there is a dedicated tourist market which has some thirty stalls selling souvenirs and local crafts. Definitely worth a visit.

and Supermaki. Any taxi driver can take you to one. However, most stock is imported from abroad and so include a significant mark up (although most goods are still below European prices). For fresh goods like fruit and vegetables, significant savings can be made by buying them from the local markets stalls dotted throughout the city.

Super U Supermarkets. Super U has many stores all over Antanarivo.

Tana Water Front Mall. Shopping mall with a food court and Super U Hypermarket.

Jumbo Score Hypermarket. A large hypermarket.

L A City Mall. This is the largest shopping mall in Tana with 52 stores. There are stores for Orange, Airtel and Telma, there is also a Madagascar Airlines office and a Super U Hypermarket.

Akoor Digue Shopping mall. a mall with a Jumbo score Hypermarket. has a bank with an ATM.

Supermaki. A large chain of convenience stores all over Madagascar.

Banks and ATMs Most banks have an ATM, although they often limit you to how much you can draw out at once. Some banks will also accept pound sterling.

BNI Bank. BNI ATMs take Mastercard and Visa cards. Their website shows all their ATM locations.

BFV-Société Générale bank. BFV-SG ATMs take Mastercard (including Maestro debit cards), Visa card, Diners Club, American Express, and Discover Cards. Their website shows all their ATM locations.

Bank of Africa. BOA ATMs take only Visa card.

MBC Mauritius Commercial Bank. MBC ATMs take Mastercard, Visa card, Diners Club, Discover cards.

AccesBanque. Mastercard and Visa card.

BMOI. BMOI ATMs only take Visa card.

Eat

La Table de Mariette. This is a good choice for high quality Malagasy food. More expensive than many other restaurants.

La Brasserie at the France Hotel. Very good and inexpensive. Try the calamari. Also vegetarian (non vegan) dishes, a very cheesy veg lasagne for 13,000 Ar.

Grill De Rova. Small menu. Great Zebu!

KudeTa. A slick setting for excellent French-influenced Malagasy food.

Jasmin. Lovely veg meal with tofu. Perhaps a bit pricey.

Drink

Lots of bottled water (no tap water!), the main brand is Pura Vida, relatively expensive, with a 1.5-L bottle costing about 3000 Ar THB (Three Horses Beer). Multi-awarded beer. Madagascar wine — variable but so much cheaper than the alternative (imported French wine). Bonbon Anglais — very sweet soft drink with bubble gum flavor, similar to South American Inka Cola. Excellent if you mix it with a little bit of THB. You may be presented with this when asking for limonade. Betsa-betsa — alcohol made from coconut water. Stronger than beer but not quite as potent as hard liquor. Litchel (or Vin Litchi in French) — lychee wine. Some brands are off-dry and quite nice, others are sickeningly sweet. Saint Claude — a local brand of rum with a hint of vanilla.

Sleep

Madagascar Underground Backpackers Hostel. 6-bed dorms and double rooms. A clean place for backpackers and travellers.

Hotel Moonlight. Single and double rooms with a TV, Wi-Fi, free coffee. Some rooms have bathrooms outside the room. Two communal terraces.

Hotel Niaouly. 22 single/double rooms. with own bathroom free Wi-Fi. some rooms have a balcony overlooking the Ambohijatovo garden. on the ground floor you will find a lounge with satellite tv. Bar. Restaurant. hotel reception is open 24 hours.

Hotel Chez Francis. 12 single/double rooms with own bathroom. has free Wi-Fi.

El Mundo Hotel. A clean double room with own hot water bathroom. Friendly owners. Free Wi-Fi.

Aina Hotel. A clean nice size double room with own hot water bathroom. Cable TV. Fast Wi-Fi. Can pay with a mastercard. 10% discount if you stay five nights or more.

Andravoahangy hotel. Clean double room with own bathroom. Free Wi-Fi.

Villa Ny Telomiova. A nice clean place with friendly owner and free Wi-Fi. There is a Super U and banks with ATMs just up the road.

Manoir Rouge. There is a Supermaki and BFV bank nearby. Hotel arranges airport transfers for 15,000 Ar (2023).

Karibotel. Good alternative for Sakamange. More locals than tourists.

La Maison du Pyla. This bed and breakfast is popular with researchers and NGOs, which makes for interesting conversation at meal times. The owner bakes homemade bread at breakfast time and is very attentive to guest needs and can help with travel arrangements including airport shuttles and reservation confirmations. The three-story building is a bit old, but is kept clean and in good repair. Meals are generous, the Wi-Fi works well, and the homemade infused rums are well worth a try.

Relais des Plateaux. The main draw of this hotel is its location ten minutes from the airport and its free shuttle, saving travelers with stopovers the headache of spending an hour in traffic trying to reach a downtown hotel. It is clean, has a pool, a decent restaurant, hot showers, working Wi-Fi, and the amenities one would expect in a good hotel. The downside is that it is very expensive for what you get, with small, pod-like rooms, no extra amenities, and little to see or do in the immediate neighborhood.

La Ribaudière. A good mid-range option. Very popular, good restaurant.

A L'Hotel. Simple and cheap. Near historical monument. 23 double rooms with own hot water bathroom cable TV. Safe box in every room. Free Wi-Fi. Has a restaurant.

Sakamanga. A good mid-range option in the center of the downtown area, but secluded from the streets. Rooms have air conditioning, Wi-Fi works well, there is a very nice pool, and the restaurant/bar serves drinks and light meals. Very popular, so book ahead. 32 rooms, reception open 24 hours.

Splurge The two best known accommodations in the capital are the Colbert (pronounced like the Comedy Central show!) and the Carlton (formerly Hilton). However, in addition to being well known, these hotels are quite expensive, especially relative to other accommodations.

Hotel Carlton Madagascar. This hotel is a member hotel of Summit Hotels & Resorts. It is a great hotel by European standards. The Carlton has 2 restaurants (Cafe Charly is reportedly excellent), 2 bars and an internet cafe, some rooms have nice views of the lake, and it is near the football (soccer) stadium. 170 rooms.

Hotel Colbert. French-run, and close to the government ministries. Aid workers and French government folks will customarily stay there. There are old and new wings, the old wing is certainly inferior to the Carlton, the new wing on a par or better. The Colbert has a lovely spa, two restaurants and a coffee shop/patisserie. The efficient and knowledgeable staff will help you navigate the challenges of the city. 140 rooms.