Aqaba.
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Overview

Aqaba (العقبة al-ʿAqabah) is Jordan's only port city. It is on the Gulf of Aqaba in the extreme south of the country, adjacent to Eilat in Israel.

Understand

Aqaba is Jordan's window on the Red Sea. Historically the same city as Eilat on the Israeli side of the border, plans for a shared international airport and other forms of cooperation have cooled down in the past few years during a period of political tension. Aqaba has seen a lot of development. This has improved the infrastructure and facilities. Be prepared for road maps to be incorrect or out of date.

Get in

When entering Jordan in Aqaba you may be entitled to a free visa. Further details you can find in the Jordan article.

By bus The Desert Highway terminates in Aqaba. The is about 300 m east of the mosque. There are frequent buses to Amman and other points along the highway. Jett).

By car Amman to Aqaba is about 350 km using the Desert Highway. It will take about 4 hr to travel this distance at a reasonable speed. Service/fuel stops are not very frequent on this road.

There is a customs checkpoint at the border of the Aqaba Special Economic Zone. Officers will probably check the trunk of your car, but the checks are usually quick for private cars and taxis.

Coming from the Israeli border, you will probably want to take the border taxi into town and switch to another taxi to continue on, especially if your hotel is in the South Beach resort area. From Aqaba city, taxi prices are lower than from the border.

Also see the note on the Aqaba border taxi Mafia below.

Served by a few airlines. Royal Jordanian operates between Amman and Aqaba. If there are two or more of you, it may be cheaper to take a taxi, especially once you factor in getting to and from the airport at each end.

Note there is no public transport to and from the airport. To get a taxi that is cheaper than at the airport you can walk to the Jordan Valley Highway. That's how the locals do it. At the police checkpoint of the airport you may have to show your passport and answer where you are walking to.

Also you could hitchhike from the Jordan Valley Highway to Aqaba.

Most larger hotels and dive operators can arrange airport transfers and hire-cars. There is a big sign that shows you the prices.

An Israeli company offers a so-called "Aqaba airport shuttle" service through its website, which appears to be a scam, according to numerous online reviews on a number of different websites.

Given the relatively painless (for the area at least) border crossing process and the closeness of Eilat, it is also feasible to fly into Ramon Airport , which is served by the likes of Ryanair. The former Ovda and Eilat city airports have both closed. To cross the border, you need to pay the Israeli departure tax.

From other countries for details on getting in from other countries and the associated visa requirements.

Israel If you are coming from Eilat, Israel, you will cross through the Yitzhak Rabin Terminal. It is open Sunday-Thursday from 06:30–20:00 and Friday-Saturday from 08:00–20:00, except for Yom Kippur and the Muslim New Year. Taxi from Eilat centre to the border is ₪35 (Feb 2014). The fee to exit Israel is ₪102 plus a processing fee of ₪5 – you can pay with credit card.

If you are planning to come to Aqaba directly from northern Israel (e.g.

After crossing the border, take a taxi from the taxi cartel (see below) for 11 JD, or just walk out. If the bird observatory to the right is open, walk straight through until the road with the fence and continue through the treatment plant further on another deserted road until you reach the housing area. From here, taxis are very cheap. If the bird observatory is closed, go through the sandy desert area to the right after it around the treatment plant until the road north of the new golf course, resort and oasis. It is best to have a map or GPS. If you get bothered by the taxi mafia, just keep walking, don't talk. The other way around is easier: either you walk through the treatment plant or cross through the sandy desert area straight north just before the treatment plant. If you get a taxi from the city for 5 JD, it is fine. 13 JD is way too much. In any case, if you feel you have been bothered, complain to the Ministry of Tourism & Antiquities.

Egypt Ferries run regularly from Aqaba across to Nuweiba on Egypt's Sinai peninsula, bypassing Israel and the sometimes complicated border arrangements. Generally, there is no visa fee for entering Jordan through Aqaba since it is a part of the free trade zone. The line to Nuweiba is operated by ABMaritime; see their website for the timetable and current prices.

Also ferries from Taba and Sharm el-Sheikh are available. There is more information about the boat crossing in the itinerary Ferries in The Red Sea.

Get around

By taxi Taxis are easily available in the city. However, if your hotel calls you a taxi, you may end up paying double for it as they receive a kickback (this is especially true if you are staying on the South Beach).

While taxis are yellow all around Jordan, Aqaba taxis have been painted green and blue: the logo colours of Aqaba Special Economic Zone (ASEZ).

App-based taxies, such as the regional Careem or Uber, are not available within the city. You will have to use the local taxis.

By bus Local minibuses connect residential areas with downtown. Passengers can get on and off at any point of the route.

The central bus station is in front of the police station in King Talal street, less than 10 min walk from city centre (Ayla Square, Al-Hussein Bin Ali Mosque).

On foot Most points of interest can be reached on foot, and that is really the best way to see the place and experience Aqaba.

See

As of December 2018, the staff at the information center near the castle claims that there is no place to use Jordan Pass in Aqaba, even though two museums are listed on the official website of Jordan Pass.

Aqaba Castle. It dates to the 14th century, although the present structure was built by the Mamluke sultan Qansawh el-Ghawri (1501-1516) and has been revised many times since then. The archaeological museum which used to be here no longer exists.

Aqaba Heritage Museum. A simple museum on local history and people.

Ayla. The old city that was established when Islam came to the area in 622 AD.

Aqaba Church. The oldest purpose-built Christian church in history. A posted sign (viewed in the right angle) gives a little bit of information on the church and its age.

Aqaba Flagpole. The sixth tallest freestanding flagpole sits at a height of 130 metres high. It carries the flag of the Arab Revolt.

Sheik Zayed Mosque. This mosque in the east beyond the highway gives a great overview of the area and Aqaba.

Marine Science Center Aquarium. Small aquarium with a few local and exotic fish.

Do

Except the sea and diving, Aqaba doesn't have a lot of things to offer. The following can be of interest but are easily done in one day.

Aqaba Castle Aqaba museum Fourth century Roman church

There is a public beach between the city and the fort, although it can be very dirty. There are several public beaches south of Aqaba, which also can be dirty. Beaches generally have eating and showering facilities and sometimes watersports.

Mount Um al Nusaylah. Hike this mountain for a great view of the Aqaba area, Eilat on the other side of the Red Sea and the valley behind the mount.

Have a look at an online map south of Aqaba, such as in the Tala Bay article; many dive centers can be found there, and diving is extremely popular. Almost all dives are shore based. A small number of sites are better accessed by boat, though the journey is never more than 45 min and is typically in the 20-min range. Though dive packages tend to be more expensive than nearby Egypt, the quality of operators is much more consistent, and the fact virtually all dives are done as shore dives save both money and time with day-boats. Diving here is also good for beginners, as there are no tides, and currents and swells this far up the gulf of Aqaba are minimal, which also means diving any given site is all but guaranteed, regardless of what the weather is up to.

Ahlan Aqaba Scuba Diving Center. Adventurous diving trips in the Red Sea area. Highly committed to the conservation of the local reef. Perform weekly surveys of the rubbish on particular dive sites for the PADI Dive Against Debris project. Snorkeling, try dives, fun dives for certified divers, shore and boat dives and beginners courses through to Dive masters. Digital Underwater Photography (which only 4% of instructors can teach!)

Buy

All ATMs charge a relatively high fee for withdrawing money. In Jordan you can withdraw money from your credit card in various currency exchange places. A reliable and low-priced currency exchange service is Alawneh Exchange in the city center. They charge a low percentage fee for withdrawing money from your credit card. Many locals use that agency. You need to show your passport.

Aqaba is a tax-free zone so prices for expensive consumer items tend to be lower than elsewhere in Jordan. Hence, the high number of shops specialized in nuts and sweets, catering for Jordanian tourists.

Beware however should you depart by plane from Aqaba: the Aqaba airport security check mafia will confiscate many types of goods on departure. See the note on the Aqaba airport security check mafia below.

Eat

In the centre of the city you can find very good hummus, falafel and shawarma (lamb meat in pita bread) places in many local restaurants. Prices start from 0.20 JD for stuffed pies (fatayer), 0.50 JD for a falafel sandwich, 1 JD for ful, baba ganous or hummus and pita, 1.50 JD for pizza-like snacks and 1.50 JD for a shawarma dish. Walk around to find the hole-in-the-wall eateries.

For local seafood, head to the Al-Afran street (locally known as the "fishmarket" or "Souq As-Samak"), which is located near the citadel and the beach area. The street is lined up with dozens of local fish shops ("masmakeh" in Arabic) that sell all kinds of seafood, and the majority of customers are locals. In most shops, you can select your preference from the fresh catch of the day and specify how you want it to be cooked (e.g. grilled or deep-fried). You can also select standard meals from a fixed menu, such as sayadieh. Prices will vary according to the selected fish, but usually range from 5 to 10 JD per person. As of 2022, there's a new fish market building under construction just south of the citadel, to which some of the shops may relocate in the future.

More fancy seafood restaurants are located around downtown (especially to the North). Some of those are local branches of eateries that also exist in other Jordanian cities, especially Amman.

Budget All these are in the city center:

Arabic Moon Restaurant. Delicious falafel and hummus. Well set-up for foreigners with menus in English and Russian; staff speak some English.

Farah Way. Known for Shawerma and unique snacks with mixed Middle Eastern/international flavours. Don't miss out the lemon chicken sandwich, which comes with refreshing fresh lime peels.

Tatbileh. A Jordanian fastfood chain (used to have a few branches in Amman, but they are now closed). Offers plenty of snacks, and is especially known for its quesadilla and lemon chicken sandwiches.

Abu Rebhi. Very humble and very locally-popular sandwich shop, especially known for its chicken liver and beef sandwiches.

Khubza & Seneya. Arabic and Western meals presented in hot pottery plates and pans (similar to Tajine). Very popular among locals and tourists alike. Suitable for both breakfast and lunch meals.

Abu Baker for Fish. Most famous traditional fish shop in the fishmarket area. They offer both a choice from the catch of the day and a menu with fixed prices and standard meals (e.g. sayadieh).

Stacoza. Popular choice for a menu-based fish restaurant. Presents various local and international seafood dishes, including a speciality seafood Tajine.

Captain's Restaurant. Although moderately-priced in Western standards, it's a prestigious restaurant in the area and also frequented by locals. One recommendation is the Captain's Salmon, a brilliant dish of a quality fillet stuffed with spinach.

The Royal Yacht Club. One of the finest places to eat, mostly seafood fresh from the sea, for prices that are reasonable by Western standards. Service is fast and courteous. They are closed all afternoon and reopen for dinner, thus unavailable for a mid-afternoon snack after coming from the beach.

Drink

You can ask for fresh fruit juices in most restaurants, and they are a treat! Many also serve lemon juice with fresh mint in it, which is very delicious.

Not many restaurants outside of the resorts serve alcohol (Ali Baba does and they charge a lot for it) but there are many wine shops, e.g. along An-Nahdah Street, selling alcohol much cheaper than elsewhere in Jordan.

A good, cheap variety of different teas (0.5 dinars) such as Karak tea and ginger tea can be had in long park area immediately east of the Ayla Circle. It's a nice, lively place to relax beneath the trees that is very popular with locals. They also sell very cheap shisha for 2 dinars each (updated January 2023)

Sleep

Dweik Hotel 1. Small rooms, but bathrooms are in good condition. Some rooms have TV, with access to satellite channels, but you do have to get the front desk to tune the satellite for you.

Amer Hotel 2. Same owner as Amer 1, but the interior seems to be a little newer and nicer.

Ahla Talla Hotel. Looks very decent.

Amira Hotel. Only doubles available here.

Al-Safa Tourist Hotel. Looks fine from the outside.

Dune Village. Offers singles, double, and shared rooms with breakfast included. The places also offers scuba diving equipment and guided dives. The place organizes transportation for guests to/from airport and border crossings.

The quality of the following budget hotels is not confirmed. Leave a description or delete them if not relevant or passable.

Golden Rose Hotel. Looks very decent, clean and modern.

Mövenpick Resort & Residence Aqaba. High-quality resort hotel, featuring a mix of European and Arabesque designs. Suites include additional amenities and a balcony or terrace from which you can enjoy remarkable views of the country's world-renowned archaeological sites, the Gulf of Aqaba and neighbouring countries. Guests staying at the residence also enjoy access to all facilities of the resort without limitations. Connecting rooms, non-smoking rooms, and rooms for the physically challenged are also available on request. In addition, the Red Sea Grill is on premises, open 19:00-23:59 during the summer months. It specialises in seafood, including grilled fresh fish and shellfish dishes combined with an Afro-Arab cooking twist, with a magnificent panoramic view of the Gulf of Aqaba from the terrace on the hotel's private beach.