Bamako.
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Overview

Bamako is the capital of Mali and straddles the Niger River. With a population of around 2.5 million in 2020, it's the largest city in Mali and one of the largest in West Africa.

Understand

Bamako has been continuously inhabited by humans since prehistoric times. In 1883 it was conquered by French troops, and in 1908 became the capital of French Sudan.

The city has only a few paved main roads (goudrons), the rest of the city's roads are unpaved, and get dusty during the dry season (November to May) and muddy during the rainy season, offering breeding grounds for malaria-carrying mosquitoes.

The city can be hard to navigate through due to the lack of road signs, the complicated layout of the streets and the one way system in the city. The roads are very crowded both with motor vehicles and motorcycles who appear to fill every available space possible. Traffic police are particularly vigilant and will sometimes appear to enforce very arbitrary traffic rules. They are usually on motorcycles as well so it is unwise to try to outrun them in your vehicle as they will easily catch up.

Often the best way to navigate around the city is to hire a taxi-motorcycle to lead you to your destination. These are relatively cheap and depending on the distance can be as low as CFA 100.

Get in

Bamako is at the end of the railway line from Dakar in Senegal which used to transport passengers across western Africa. However, as of 2023, the only passenger service is a domestic train from the western city of Kayes. Rehabilitation of the full line from Dakar has been promised several times but is unlikely to happen in the coming years.

By bus Bus travel to Bamako is possible but often gruellingly slow. Some buses offers air conditioning, most don't. Segou and Mopti are common destinations, a journey time of about ten hours. International services are available from most regional capitals; with journey times of up to 40 hours it can be a very memorable, if quite unpleasant, experience.

Bamako has two major bus stations, with Sogoniko handling the most traffic.

See

Mali National Park. This park sits slightly above the city under the outcrops of the Koulouba plateau and incorporates both the botanical garden and zoo along with a trail network. Located adjacent to the National Museum and Presidential Palace Complex, it is a patch of green in the overall arid area.

Bamako Botanical Gardens. Relaxing green setting.

Bamako Zoo. Reopened in mid-2013 after complete renovation. Fewer than 200 animals from more than 100 species. Nice lion exhibit.

Point G Hill. Houses caves with rock paintings, and offers good views across the city.

National Museum of Mali. Dating back to 1953, when it was known as the Sudanese Museum, this attraction on pleasant grounds displays ethnographic exhibits on the peoples of Mali with displays on masks, textiles, statues, and contemporary art from including Iba N’Diaye (Senegal), Outtara Bakari (Côte d’Ivoire), Koraïchi Rachid (Algeria), Malangatana (Mozambique) and Boghossian Skunder (Ethiopia). Might help to know some French to read placards, although English guides may be available.

Muso Kunda Museum of Women. Portraits and items related to women and Malian life.

Sacred Heart Cathedral. Dates to 1907 (although current cathedral built in 1925) after a Catholic mission nearby was relocated here.

Monument of Independence. This is a rather remarkable looking monument to the independence of Mali, complete with a minaret on top. But watch out for heavy traffic in the area.

BCEAO Tower. The tallest building in Mali (20 floors high), with Neo-Sudanic architecture and features reminiscent of the Sudan-Sahelian architecture of mosques in Djenne and Timbuktu. A readily visible landmark on the Bamako skyline.

Monument de la Paix. Very fitting with a dove perched atop a world cupped in an equilateral triangle.

Tower Of Africa. If you try really hard, it kind of looks like the tower in Astana.

King Fahd Bridge. birthplace of Modibo Keïta, the first president of Mali, credited as the "father of independence", nowadays the neighborhood consists of a Christian cemetery and an evangelical Protestant church. }}

Do

At the end of each January, Bamako hosts the finish line to the gruelling trans-Sahara rally, the Budapest-Bamako. Hundreds of rally cars and motorcycles arrive in the city on the last Sunday of January.

Casino de l'Amitie a Bamako. In case you want to see what a Malian casino is like (apparently this is acceptable in Malian culture?) Gambling machines, roulette, even a restaurant with fine dining.

Cultural Palace Hamadou Hampaté Ba. The national performing arts centre in Mali, the centre hosts various performances.

Buy

Prices are not fixed, and for many goods bargaining is expected. On the market it might be a good idea to first ask a couple of times at different stands before actually buying something.

Near the area of Bamako-Coura is the lively artisan market where traders from all over Bamako come to sell silver jewellery, leather, musical instruments and wood carvings. Prices are reasonable but the vendors expect their customers to bargain and enjoy it when they do. Once inside the market the atmosphere is relaxed and pleasant but be careful in the busy streets directly surrounding - it's easy to lose a bag to a thief.

All the Ecobank ATMs in Bamako take Mastercard and Visa card for cash withdrawal.

Eat

Pizzeria de Guido. Decent Italian restaurant - just don't expect taxi drivers to know where it is.

Love them or hate them, the French have left one decent legacy in West Africa: bread. Fresh delicious baguettes are ubiquitous, and travellers should not be worried about becoming sick because of the bread.

Vegetarians will have a hard time in Bamako. Asking for a meal without meat will usually be met with the kind of look reserved for children and elderly relatives one does not wish to upset. In a country where poverty is common and food is often scarce, turning down meat is an oddity.

That said, mornings beans, fries, and fried plaintains can be found streetside throughout the city. Morning, noon, and night you can find small streetside "cafes" where you can get a fried egg sandwich and some nescafe. Several varieties of fried dough are also easy to stumble upon. Evenings you can find attcheke (cassava dish), spaghetti, beans, boiled eggs, and fries relatively easily.

Meat eaters will be pleased to learn beef and fish are exceptionally good. Beef kebabs and grilled Capitaine, a freshwater fish from the Niger river, are always a good choice. Chickens are usually left to fend for themselves, and tend to be on the scrawny side, especially compared to North American chickens. Although the situation is improving, you might want to avoid disappointment and just give chicken a miss while in Bamako. To avoid food-borne illness, stay away as much as possible from fresh vegetables, and make sure your food is piping hot before eating it.

Hotel Badala. Very well run, little known restaurant/brasserie. Excellent food (the Pave du boeuf is yummy). Excellent service. Small pool, outside tables. Near the river. Prices are relatively high for Mali but in Bamako you need a treat sometimes!

Le Relax. Reasonably priced restaurant (around 2000 to 5000 XOF). Vegetarian options are available. Cake, ice cream and other sweets are available in a wide various of flavours.

Grocery shopping You can eat like the locals for a few hundred francs (CFA) a day, or shop in one of the western-style supermarkets.

There is one main market, in the centre of town, and several smaller markets in Bamako.

Supermarket-style stores are generally run by Lebanese businessmen.

Le Miniprix. Supermarket Le Miniprix is actually the best one with the best service and with the lowest prices. They have a very clean store and are open 07:30-22:30. They also accept US and Canadian dollars, and euro.

These stores will carry Western or Middle-Eastern goods, including cold cuts, fruits and vegetables, and dairy products including fresh milk and yogurt. Prices are generally higher than in Europe or the US, and choice more limited in a way reminiscent of a North American convenience store.

Budget There are many restaurants where you can get nice omelette sandwiches for about CFA 250.

Many street vendors sell bread, rice, fries, salad, grilled meat; however, use precautions while eating on the street.

Le Bafing. Bistrot/restaurant/bar in a small street. Eating in a courtyard. Very good and friendly service. Daily special includes local dishes, à la carte steak, fish or spaghetti. Well stocked bar. Recommended.

African Grill. Restaurant serving good authentic African cuisine, on a square just off a main road. Not luxurious but good. Beer and wine are available but, because of the proximity to a mosque, don't be surprised if on Fridays they ask you to keep the bottles out of sight on the floor. They have a second location at the Musée National.

Appaloosa. Restaurant and bar. One of the strangest sights on earth. Malians in velour cowboy hats and vests serve Tex-Mex dishes in the restaurant while blond Russian professional women work the bar. Must be seen to be believed. The food isn't bad either.

Poularco. Another Lebanese joint with slightly higher class food than the rest. Nice shawarmas, pizzas, and good mixed salads are on the menu here

Bamako has many Lebanese and Chinese restaurants.

Bla Bla. Bla Bla is where Bamako's upper crust go to relax and have a (expensive) cocktail or bottle of champagne. With a small but delicious African menu, a wide range of cocktails, and cold draft beer - it is one of the most popular restaurants to see and be seen. Also this place frequently has art exhibitions for local artists.

La Terrasse. La Terrasse is a very large bar/lounge on top of a night club. Very good atmosphere and salsa music, dancing.

Le Relax. Popular Lebanese hangout in Hippodrome with quick food and free Wi-Fi access. Pizzas, shawarmas, and hummus are the stars on this menu.

Broadway Café Badala. A Western style restaurant which is pretty much the only place you can find a "real" hamburger with "real" cheese. Also on the menu are breakfast burritos, chicken wings, and shakes. Great if you are missing the comforts of home.

Drink

The Evasion Jazz Club can be pretty cool on Fridays and Saturdays. The Hippo d'Or (close to Hippodrome) is also a nice place for enjoying non-stop live music on Fridays and, even more, on Saturdays. There is a big casino near the Hotel L'Amitie. Ibiza, Blyblos and Terrace are still the hippest places to dance and drink. For some less seedy drinking establishments, try No Stress & Jet Set (formerly Privledge), which both have pool tables as well. Bla Bla and its twin in Badalabougou are known to get pumping on weekends.

Crazy Horse has some good food and is well priced.

Ibiza. Around midnight the Malians come alive; this is a nice nightclub with a variety of dance music from international to local dance tracks.

Sleep

Bed & Breakfast Ambassagou. Nice, very clean rooms. 15 min to centre, airport and bus station. Restaurants, bars, markets are in walking distance. Nice evening or morning stroll to the river Niger. Transfer to and from airport is possible. Owner Adama can help you with your excursions.

Sleeping Camel. Camping & hotel with dorm beds popular with trans-Africa truck groups, adventure motor bikers, and local expatriates. Wi-Fi, air-conditioned rooms, restaurant and bar available. River cruises can be arranged from the hotel.

Hotel Dafina. On a quiet street within walking distance of several restaurants (Vietnamese, Chinese, French) and a well stocked supermarket. Small swimming pool. Rooms are spread over several buildings around a courtyard. Ask to be shown some rooms before you make the decision. Some rooms are much nicer than others. A/C, slow internet access in business centre. Breakfast is OK but do not count on dinner or lunch. OK bar for a cold beer.

Hotel Le Rabelais. Has a pool, French restaurant and bar. Food good but not cheap. Make and sell their own ice cream! You can pay to use the pool if you're not staying there. The rooms are smallish but clean and air conditioned, with wireless internet.

Le Relais. Rooms are small and make sure that you get a room at the garden side otherwise don't bother unless you like to get up early with the traffic noise. Italian restaurant on ground floor is good but pricey for Bamako. Advantage is the Azar supermarket next door and the café/restaurant le Relax.

Azalai Grand Hotel. Swimming pool, tennis court, internet access. The hotel is by far one of the oldest in town. Nice-sized, very clean rooms with large windows that open. Good service. Restaurant reasonable but the breakfast buffet is a little overpriced. Both the jewellery lady and Tuareg crafts vendor in the lobby will try to massively overcharge you. Give them a miss: you'll do better at the Marché des artisans in town. Small book store in the lobby with a decent selection of Malian books and newspapers. Staff haven't figured out how to clean out the pool - give it a miss. Internet reliable and fast, by local standards.

Azalai Hotel Bamako. Most luxurious of the three Azalai hotels in Bamako, and one of the best in town. Very nice pool. Expensive but nice restaurant. Central air, big beds, TV, immaculate bathrooms. Hotel bar popular with "professional" women.

Laico Hotel de l'Amitié. This is probably the plushest of all the hotels in Bamako along with the Radisson.

Laico Hotel El Farouk. Laico Hotels took this over from the Kempinski Hotel Chain.

Radisson Blu Hotel, Bamako. This is one of the newer hotels in Bamako with excellent, large rooms and free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel for guests. The ACI 2000 area of Bamako is however quiet and removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown.