Bocas del Toro.
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Overview

Bocas del Toro (aka Bocas Town aka Bocas) is a town in the Caribbean West of Panama. The town has an interesting mix of islanders, expats and backpackers and is the most developed in the region. The town boasts an abundance of restaurants, hotels and bars. Bocas has developed a reputation for being a party town with a number of bars and clubs that sit on the stilts over the water.

Understand

Bocas Town is on the southern tip of Isla Colón and is part of the Bocas del Toro archipelago of islands.

Further afield on the island of Colón, are a number of white sand beaches and nature reserves. Bocas also makes a good base for doing tours around the other islands. Other islands accessible by water taxi from Bocas Town include Carenero, Bastimentos, Cristóbal, and Solarte.

Get in

By plane There is a small airport on Isla Colón with several flights from Panama City. FlyTrip and AirPanama operate several flights a day from Albrook Airport (PAC) in Panama City (not the main international airport).

By car It is possible to take your vehicle on the island using a car ferry. The ferry leaves Almirante port every morning at 08:00 Monday to Saturday (no service on Sundays). The same ferry goes back to the mainland on the same days at 16:00. If you wish to leave your car on the mainland, there is a secure parking available next to where the water taxis leave in Almirante.

By bus and boat The town is on Isla Colón and you'll need to take a boat to access it. Boats departs frequently from Almirante. There is no service anymore from Changuinola. There are three operators, all offering the same service.

An alternative is to take the truck ferry which departs Almirante every day at 07:00 and 12:00. Arrive early if you have a car. The ferry returns from Bocas at 10:00 and 15:00.

In Almirante, get off before the bus terminal at the turn, otherwise it is a very short walk to the docks (1–1.5 km).

Pana Bocas Express stops in Chiriquí Grande, before Almirante, but has a longer water taxi ride (about 1h).

There are a few other companies also offering private buses and shuttles to Bocas from many destinations including Puerto Viejo, Panama City, San Jose and others. To check pricing, schedules and availability, click the link: Caribe Shuttle.

By sailboat Bocas del Toro is a popular place for sailboats to stop and stay for awhile, with plenty of easy anchorage and a marina, and it is an authorized port of entry to Panama. If you are arriving from another country, immigration officials will come to your boat to do an inspection once you contact them upon arrival, and the crew is not supposed to leave the boat until this process is complete (though you are unlikely to be penalized if you make a mistake). If you do not have your own boat and cannot afford to charter one, it may be possible to find crew opportunities for boats coming here from elsewhere in Panama or the Caribbean.

The border in Panama closes at 17:00 local time. The Panamanian officials frequently ask for printed proof that you are going to leave the country again.

Get around

Bocas town is small enough to walk all over.

By water taxi Not necessary for getting around the town itself, but water taxis are the main means of transport to other islands or farther-flung beaches. You can also pay before getting in if you want to make sure to get your change.

The roads are flat and in good repair inside town. Cycling to Playa Bluff will require crossing some sandy areas, but nothing too challenging. Cycling to Boca del Drago takes about an hour over the hilly, sometimes-gravel road through the jungle.

By bus There are two bus companies that provide service between Bocas town and Drago beach (for the starfish). If you are confident, you can argue with them.

See

Beaches El Istmito Big Creek Bluff Beach – There are several hotels/restaurants in middle. Swimming can be difficult but come here for unspoilt sometimes private feeling beach. Surfing is popular. Starfish Beach – Take the hourly bus to Drago (45 min) and walk another 1.5-2 km from there (20 min). Mimitimbi Beach

Ecotourism Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute Tropical Research Station – A world-class marine science research station, offering free guided tours Thursday and Friday afternoons. Located a bit outside of town. Finca los Monos – A private botanical garden, also just outside of town, known for its good birding and good chances to see wild monkeys and sloths. Sloths – Wild three-toed sloths can be seen anywhere in the Bocas del Toro archipelago if you're lucky, but tours offer visits to "sloth islands" where your odds are supposedly better. Package tours that only include a boat ride past the islands are unlikely to result in sightings, but more focused tours that land on the islands are more likely to be worthwhile. Dolphin Bay – There is a lagoon a few miles away from Bocas Town with a resident population of wild dolphins. Many day tours of the islands include stops here, and it's also possible to take a water taxi.

Do

Scuba Diving. The diving may not be adventurous enough for seasoned divers as most of the dives are fairly shallow (15–20 m) and the wildlife not as rich as some of the more mainstream Caribbean dive destinations. There is also another scuba operator on Isla Bastimentos. They do not hire contract dive masters. All dives are lead by the owner.

Horseback riding. Horses are a way of life in Panama. It is not unusual to look out the window of your casita, and have a horse looking back. Horseback riding in Panama is mostly Western horses and Western saddles. Privately owned horses can vary from Quarter Horse to a mix of Columbian or Peruvian Paso. By breeding the two, you get a larger horse, than the traditional Paso Fino, with the smooth and lovely gait of the Paso. A great area for riding are the beaches of Bocas del Toro near Dolphin Bay'.

Starfish Beach. Although very touristy, go here for seeing starfish. Bring a snorkelling set. The amount of starfish can be very low, maybe you will only see 10-20 different ones. If you are keen free-diving, check out the sea weed area where also other maritime life can be found including lion fish.

Zapatillas Day Tour. Even though it is very crowded and many boats go there, it can be worth it. Apparently, it also includes a visit to a starfish place with much better sight than Starfish Beach.

Buy

Red n Blue. If you're in the middle of a long trip and need to purchase something (replacements, electronics, etc.) that isn't available locally, this freight forwarding company ships Amazon packages sent to their office in Miami for a small fee. Takes around a week to arrive.

Laundry. Laundry and other services available. On the water so good for anyone visiting in a sailboat.

Eat

There are plenty of places to eat lining the main streets of Bocas Town. Just walk around and check some out. Food carts can be either fairly expensive or pretty cheap, usually depending on the location and target clientele. Specialties are empanadas or fried chicken and patacones.

El Ultimo Refugio. Fresh seafood, steak, and variations on Norte Americano-style dishes. Known for passion fruit dishes & cocktails.

Trattoria Pane e Vino. Good pasta & other Italian dishes.

Cafe del Mar. Best coffee in town. Also has good breakfast & lunch, with lots of vegan & vegetarian options.

La Buga Gastro Market. Interesting concept where a few different chefs have their own menus, but share a kitchen. Mexican, Italian, and even Poke bowls. Also has great cocktails.

Om Cafe. Breakfast really shines here with the wide variety of juice blends and shakes they offer, plus a very unique eggs vindaloo dish.

Drink

There quite a few bars in Bocas Town, and all the restaurants serve beer as well. It's not uncommon for backpackers to buy beer at one of the many small grocery stores and drink while walking down the street.

Selina. The waterfront wooden deck bar for the massive Selina Hostel, on the first floor and open to the public. Just walk right in, or use the smaller side door through the passageway on the right later at night. As of March 2020, this seems to often be where the party is, especially before midnight.

Barco Hundido. A disco, built on a wooden deck, above the water with a wrecked/sunken ship under the water just beyond the deck, illuminated by bright lights. Probably one of the better bars in town, and the one that most of the town winds up at by the end of the night.

The Floating Bar. Mostly frequented by expats and locals - this makes it a great place to learn about upcoming events, off-the-beaten-path activities, or even get invited to a volleyball game. Live music on Mondays. Also one of the best places to view the bio-luminescent glow worms - once per month, check their social media for info.

Sleep

This section lists accommodations within Bocas Town. For more (and quieter) options within a short water taxi ride of Bocas Town, see Isla Carenero. There are also places to stay on the slightly-farther Isla Bastimentos, Isla Cristóbal, and Isla Solarte, still accessible by water taxi from Bocas.

Twin Fin Hostel. Pleasant, airy budget hostel. Pretty basic, with cold showers and light air conditioning in the dorms at night only. Small bar and tables downstairs. Breakfast (two small pancakes and some fresh fruit) is included.

Cliff's Hostel. Budget hostel with a reputation for good value and a very friendly and helpful owner.

Selina Hostel. This is Bocas's big, slick corporate party hostel. Reputedly well-maintained. Has a hopping bar downstairs.

Calipso Hostel. On the main street, it offers excellent dorms and private rooms. Rooms are clean with a/c and private bathroom. A shared kitchen, internet and cheap tours are available. The place is run by an extremely friendly and helpful lady.

Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.

Hostelluego. Chilled out place 40 m from the party hostels. Very nice and clean, very safe. Nice chill out area, Free laptops, Wi-Fi, pancake breakfast and all rooms A/C.

Hotel Angela. Run by Claudio, a US expat from California. The hotel is clean and safe, located a block off the main avenue and away from traffic noise. The hotel also has its own restaurant and bar over the water. Happy hour 15:30–17:30: 2-for-1 drinks. The staff are extremely courteous and friendly.

Punta Caracol. A hotel of overwater bungalows a 15-min boat ride from Bocas town. Nine bungalows sit on stilts over the water, and wrap around verandas give each bungalow direct access to the water.

Tropical Suites. Tropical Suites is in Bocas Town on the waterfront. There are activities all around you. The 16 large suites have a complete kitchen, breakfast bar, a large Jacuzzi and balconies. Excursions can be arranged with the reception. Boats can be moored at the hotel docks. Deals are available for longer stays, weekly or monthly.

Dolphin Bay Hideaway. A small Bed and Breakfast on the shores of Dolphin Bay on the Island of San Cristobal, a 20-min boat ride from Bocas town. It is a very quiet and secluded hideaway offering personalized service. 3 beautifully decorated rooms. Meals are prepared using fresh seafood, fruits and vegetables.

Hostel Hansi. Extremely clean German-run hostel with fans in every room. Some rooms also have a balcony. Spacious kitchen facilities and plenty of room in the fridge. The focus is on a family-orientated hostel, rather than a backpacker hangout centered around a bar. Free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Olas. Hotel built in 2004. Clean, spacious rooms fitted with AC, wiFi, private hot showers, TV and balconies. Waterfront bar below. Bicycles, kayaks and snorkelling equipment for rent. Various island tours and expeditions can be arranged. Cake and coffee offered every morning. Great deck with hammacs to chill out. Good location.

Hacienda del Toro. Swimming pool, restaurant and bar, horse stable with well-trained horses for jungle tours. Includes breakfast and transportation. 2 nights minimum.