Caldas da Rainha.
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Overview

Caldas da Rainha is a city in Portugal's Oeste region, about from the Atlantic Ocean and north of Lisbon. Absent from most travellers' itineraries, this charming city is a great place to experience authentic Portugal without hordes of tourists. Caldas—as locals call it—offers visitors countless experiences to enjoy: a beautiful park, a bustling farmers' market, several museums, shops, restaurants, cafés, and bars. For visitors seeking a beach holiday, Foz do Arelho and Salir do Porto in Caldas municipality are popular destinations.

Caldas da Rainha is an artistic city, and artworks can be found beyond its several museums. Caldas' main park contains many statues and sculptures, as do most of the city's roundabouts and pavements (sidewalks). Caldas is home to a school of fine arts and design and a vocational school for ceramics. The city centre has many excellent examples of Art Nouveau architecture, with beautifully tiled exteriors. You can take some of the art home with you, in the form of world-renowned ceramic creations from the Bordallo Pinheiro factory. In recognition of its crafts and folk art, UNESCO added Caldas to its Creative Cities Network in 2019.

Understand

The city of Caldas da Rainha (KAHL-duhzh duh rruh-EE-nyuh, /ˈkaɫ.dɐʒ dɐ ʁɐ.ˈi.ɲɐ/) has around 30,000 residents, who are known as Caldenses. Caldas serves as the seat of a municipality—also named Caldas da Rainha—with a population of 50,917 (2021, provisional), including the city proper and the surrounding rural communities. Caldas serves as seat of the Comunidade Intermunicipal do Oeste (West Intermunicipal Community), made up of twelve municipalities with over 362,000 people. See Oeste for details on the other eleven municipalities.

Caldas is in the historical Estremadura province and in the Leiria district. Caldas is in the Centro (Central) tourism region and was part of the old Costa da Prata (Silver Coast) tourism region, a designation which survives in the name of a four-star hotel and other businesses in the city and region.

For centuries, the sulphurous curative waters were Caldas da Rainha's main attraction. The city's name can be translated as "Queen's Hot Springs".

Caldas da Rainha was founded by Queen Leonor de Avis (1458–1525, also known as de Lencastre or de Viseu), wife of King João II (1455–1495). One day in 1484, while travelling from Óbidos to Batalha, she found a group of peasants bathing in foul-smelling waters by the roadside. She stopped to inquire about this strange sight, and the bathers told the queen about the waters' curative powers. She decided to try the waters and was pleased to be quickly relieved of an affliction she had been suffering. The queen ordered a thermal hospital built on the site of those waters, so that others may enjoy the relief that she felt. Construction began the following year, 1485, and the first patients were admitted in 1488. Work continued until about 1496–1497. To fund the hospital and the adjoining church, the queen used income from her landholdings and sold her jewels. The thermal hospital still stands to serve those with certain illnesses.

In 1511, King Manuel I, brother of Queen Leonor, declared Caldas da Rainha a town. In 1821, the town became a municipal seat. Caldas was elevated to city status in August 1927.

During the 20th century, Caldas housed refugees and prisoners of several wars, including South Africa's Second Boer War, World War I, in which Portugal joined the Allies, and World War II, when Portugal remained neutral. On 16 March 1974, officers and enlisted soldiers from the army base in Caldas unsuccessfully attempted to stage a coup d'état against the autocratic Estado Novo government more than a month before the successful 25 April Carnation Revolution.

The municipality of Caldas da Rainha includes not only the city of Caldas da Rainha but also numerous surrounding rural communities. Beyond the two freguesias (civil parishes) that make up the city, the municipality has 14 rural civil parishes, each containing various settlements. In 2013, the 16 freguesias became 12 following a controversial nationwide local government reorganisation.

The city of Caldas da Rainha is divided into two civil parishes—Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and Santo Onofre—separated from each other by the railway tracks. Although a compact city, Caldas da Rainha has several distinct neighbourhoods in each parish.

Nossa Senhora do Pópulo. (pop. 16,114 in 2011) Nossa Senhora do Pópulo forms the eastern half of the city, containing most points of interest to travellers. Most sights are located in the neighbourhoods of Centro (centre) and Zona Histórica (historical zone). Other neighbourhoods—mostly residential but with some amenities—include Bairro Azul, Bairro Lisbonense, Avenal, and Encosta do Sol. Merged with Coto and São Gregório in 2013.

Santo Onofre. (pop. 11,223 in 2011) Santo Onofre comprises the western half of the city of Caldas da Rainha. It is more residential and less touristy than Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, but it does contain amenities such as the municipal library, a sports complex, the Expoeste exhibition centre, several large supermarkets, and various cafés and restaurants. Neighbourhoods include Bairro (Além) da Ponte, Bairro dos Arneiros, Bairro das Morenas, and Cidade Nova. Merged with Serra do Bouro in 2013.

If you want to see the Portuguese countryside, visit the rural civil parishes of Caldas da Rainha municipality. You will find friendly faces, family farms, green rolling hills, and lovely centuries-old, white-washed churches and chapels. Each parish celebrates its patron saint with an annual festival, typically centred around the parish's church. During the summer months, when many immigrants return home to visit family, the parishes hold festivals with music, dancing, and food—grilled pork and sardines are popular dishes. Beyond churches, the villages tend to be light on tourist sights, but you can find many cozy lodgings and delicious restaurants with authentic Portuguese cooking.

Coto. (pop. 1,344 in 2011) Coto is the smallest in area of the municipality's civil parishes. Sights include the 18th-century Capela de São Jacinto (Chapel of St. Hyacinth) and the 17th-century Igreja Paroquial de Nossa Senhora dos Anjos (Parish Church of Our Lady of the Angels). Merged with Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and São Gregório in 2013.

Foz do Arelho. (pop. 1,339 in 2011) The town of Foz do Arelho, often shortened to just "Foz", is the most popular destination in Caldas municipality outside the city. It is the place for travellers seeking sun, water, and sand. Foz has two beaches: one on the Atlantic Ocean and one inland on Lagoa de Óbidos (Óbidos Lagoon). Foz offers many lodging options, the highest concentration in the municipality outside the city of Caldas.

Nadadouro. (pop. 1,904 in 2011) Located on Lagoa de Óbidos (Óbidos Lagoon), Nadadouro offers water activities and camping. Locals make their living from fish, seafood, and agriculture. The parish is reputed for holding the best Carnaval festivities in the municipality. Visitors may wish to see Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Bom Sucesso, the village's 19th-century church.

Salir do Porto. (pop. 797 in 2011) Although it borders the Atlantic, Salir do Porto has only a riverside beach and no ocean beach. It's known for having the country's highest sand dune at . Local legend holds that Salir is where caravels were built for explorers of the Age of Discovery during the reigns of Kings Afonso V and João II. Sights include Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception), the 18th-century parish church. Merged with Tornada in 2013.

Serra do Bouro. (pop. 703 in 2011) Serra do Bouro is the least populous of Caldas' civil parishes. It lies on the Atlantic Ocean, but there are no beaches here. Its cliffs overlook the sea. The 16th-century Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora dos Mártires (Mother Church of Our Lady of the Martyrs) features some Manueline details. Merged with Santo Onofre in 2013.

Tornada. (pop. 3,561 in 2011) Located just north of the city, Tornada is the most populous civil parish outside the city. Along the N8 road (called Estrada de Tornada by locals), you can find restaurants, big-box stores, automotive services, and other businesses. If you have a car, it may be worth a look, but probably not if you don't have private transportation. Sights include Capela de Chão da Parada / Capela de Nossa Senhora da Consolação, a 17th-century chapel. Merged with Salir do Porto in 2013.

A dos Francos. (pop. 1,701 in 2011) The town of A dos Francos has existed since the 11th or 12th century. Local legend holds that Portugal's first king gave these lands to the French in appreciation for help in conquering Lisbon. Estação da Mala-Posta do Casal dos Carreiros is a 19th-century rural postal station, where tired horses were exchanged for fresh ones. Ecclesiastical sights include Capela do Espírito Santo (Chapel of the Holy Spirit), which dates from the 12th century; Ermida de Vila Verde de Mato, a 17th-century chapel; and Igreja de São Silvestre, the 18th-century baroque parish church.

Alvorninha. (pop. 2,987 in 2011) Alvorninha holds a popular Sunday market, Mercado de Santana. This farming community was the site of Portugal's first agricultural school. Sights include Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Visitação, a 16th-century church with Manueline entryway and azulejo tiles; Capela de Almofala / Capela de Santo António, a 16th-century chapel; and Capela de São Francisco, a 17th-century chapel.

Carvalhal Benfeito. (pop. 1,279 in 2011) Carvalhal Benfeito offers mountains, hills, and valleys with a beautiful panorama of varied landscape.

Landal. (pop. 1,051 in 2011) Landal is called capital da codorniz (capital of quail). Sights include the 18th-century mother church Igreja do Divino Espírito Santo (Church of the Divine Holy Spirit), the nearby 18th-century limestone cross in a small square, and the 16th-century Capela de Santa Susana. There is a museum dedicated to rural life and another in an old schoolhouse.

Salir de Matos. (pop. 2,583 in 2011) Sights in Salir de Matos include Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of Needs), a 17th-century church in the village of Casal da Areia; the 17th-century Capela de Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy); and Igreja de Santo António (Church of Saint Anthony), the 18th-century parish church.

Santa Catarina. (pop. 3,029 in 2011) The town of Santa Catarina is called the Terra de Cutelarias (Land of Cutlery). If you're in town, the 16th-century parish church, Igreja de Santa Catarina, is worth seeing. Its large campanile towers over the small town. Check out the nearby pillory while you're there.

São Gregório. (pop. 955 in 2011) Named for Pope Gregory I (c. 540 – 604), commonly known as Saint Gregory the Great, São Gregório remains a land of agriculture, producing mainly fruit and wine. Sights include Capela de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a 17th-century chapel in the village of Fanadia; and Igreja de São Sebastião e Santa Ana da Fanadia, an 18th-century church. Igreja de São Gregório (Church of St Gregory), the parochial church, is notable among Caldas' rural churches for its 20th-century architecture. Merged with Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and Coto in 2013.

Vidais. (pop. 1,155 in 2011) The economy of this rural community depends on growing fruit and winemaking. Local artisans make wicker baskets. Sights include Capela de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, an 18th-century chapel.

Caldas da Rainha experiences a "warm-summer Mediterranean" climate (Köppen climate classification Csb, if you're into that sort of thing), sometimes called "cool-summer Mediterranean". This is the same climate as in Porto, San Francisco, and Cape Town, with lower temperatures than those experienced in "hot-summer Mediterranean" cities such as Rome, Los Angeles, or Perth.

Summer temperatures top out at on average, and the light rain doesn't exceed monthly. Winter lows average . Caldas, like most of Portugal, rarely sees any snow.

Turismo Caldas da Rainha. In addition to tourism information, this space includes a shop with regional products and artisanal goods, a café–restaurant, and loos (restrooms). A gallery holds occasional exhibitions of local arts and crafts.

Centro Interpretativo da Lagoa de Óbidos e Posto de Turismo. Beyond the usual tourist office information, you can learn about the ecology, biology, history, and ethnology of the lagoon.

Município das Caldas da Rainha. The municipal website provides extensive travel information in Portuguese. Sections include Agenda Viva (events schedule), Como chegar (how to arrive), Onde Ficar (where to stay), Onde Comer (where to eat), O Que Fazer (what to do), O Que Visitar (what to visit), Visitas Guiadas (guided tours), Onde Comprar (where to buy) and Transporte Municipal (municipal transport). A drop-down menu at the top of the page allows translation into English, French, or Italian.

Caldas da Rainha - City Guide. The app includes itineraries, sites of interest, and an events calendar. It is available for both iOS and Android. The app is sponsored by the Câmara Municipal (city council).

Get in

The nearest airport is Humberto Delgado Airport in Lisbon, about south of Caldas da Rainha. There are several options to reach Caldas from Lisbon Airport: Bus: Rodoviária do Oeste. Take the Lisbon Metro from Aeroporto station and transfer at Alameda station to or at Saldanha station to . Either line will get you to Campo Grande station, where you can take Rodoviária do Oeste's Rápida Verde bus service. Bus: Rede Expressos. Take the Lisbon Metro from Aeroporto station and transfer at S. Sebastião station to to Jardim Zoológico station, near the Sete Rios bus terminal. AeroBus (suspended due to pandemic) Line 2 also travels between the airport and Sete Rios. Next, follow the directions for the Rede Expressos coach bus to Caldas da Rainha. Rail. The rail station nearest the airport for service to Caldas is Entrecampos. Take the Lisbon Metro from Aeroporto station and transfer at Saldanha station to to Entre Campos station. AeroBus (suspended due to pandemic) Line 1 also travels between the airport and Entrecampos. From here take Comboios de Portugal's Linha do Oeste to Caldas da Rainha. (The rail station in written Entrecampos, but the metro station is written Entre Campos.) Taxi. A 20% surcharge applies 21:00–06:00, so about . Luggage adds per piece, and there is a booking fee of , if applicable. Tolls on the A8 motorway total . Keep in mind that the driver needs to get back to Lisbon and cannot pick up passengers until they reach that city. Remember to tip about 10%. Drive. Upon exiting the airport, follow the signs to OESTE. Next, follow the directions in the By car section. Tolls on the A8 motorway total .

Although farther away, to the north, Francisco de Sá Carneiro Airport in Porto is a viable alternative to Lisbon. To reach Caldas from Porto: Bus. From the airport, take the Porto Metro (Metro do Porto) to Senhora da Hora or Trindade and transfer to the , , , or to Campo 24 de Agosto (~27 min, ). Take a Rede Expressos bus to Caldas. A few trips are direct, but most involve one or two transfers. Rail. From the airport, take the Porto Metro to Senhora da Hora or Trindade and transfer to the , , , or to Campanhã (~30 min, ). From Campanhã station, take a Comboios de Portugal (CP) Alfa Pendular (AP) or Intercity (IC) train to Coimbra-B and transfer to an InterRegional (IR) train to Caldas. Travel time is about 4 hr 20 min–5 hr 20 min. Take the VRI (Via Regional Interior) south for to for to for to for to for . Next, see the By car section to determine the best exit for your specific destination in Caldas.

For most intercity connections, including Lisbon, the bus is faster than the train.

Caldas da Rainha is served by two autoestradas (motorways, expressways, or freeways).

Autoestrada do Oeste, the principal motorway serving Caldas, provides access from Lisbon in the south via Loures, Torres Vedras, Bombarral, and Óbidos. It provides access from Leiria and Marinha Grande to the north. Numerous junctions with other motorways and roads provide connections from the rest of the country. There are four exits serving Caldas:

Exit 17 Gaeiras / Caldas da Rainha (Sul) – provides an approach via N8 to the southernmost areas of the city. Exit 18 Caldas da Rainha / Foz do Arelho – leaves you on N360, which is convenient to much of Caldas and to Foz do Arelho. Exit 19 Caldas da Rainha / Zona Industrial – puts you on Avenida Atlântica, which is convenient to northern areas of the city and for Foz do Arelho via the newer Variante Atlântica. It offers a less congested route into the city centre. Exit 20 Tornada – leaves you on N8 a few kilometres north of the city.

Autoestrada do Atlântico connects from Santarém and Rio Maior to the east, serving several of Caldas' rural civil parishes. In Santarém, it meets up with (Autoestrada do Norte), which allows access from many major cities. Exit 2 Gaeiras / A-dos-Negros – serves Caldas' rural civil parish of São Gregório (N115). Exit 3 for Landal / A dos Francos (N361) – also serves Vidais (N114).

Several estradas nacionais (national roads), which are not grade separated, serve the city and municipality. Nowadays, they are prefixed with the letter N, but older signs will show EN.

N8 (Estrada da Estremadura), once the main highway of the region, runs right through the centre of town. It runs south to Torres Vedras and Loures, a suburb of Lisbon; and north to Alcobaça. N114 goes west to Óbidos and Peniche; and east to Rio Maior, Santarém, and Évora. N114-1 connects the city centre with N114 to the east. N115 runs south to Cadaval and Loures. N360 runs from Foz do Arelho in the municipality's extreme west, through the city, and east to Benedita in Alcobaça municipality. The portion between Caldas and Foz is known locally as Estrada da Foz. N361 runs from Landal and A dos Francos, in the municipality's southeast corner, west to Cadaval, Bombarral, and Lourinhã; and east to Rio Maior.

The câmara municipal (city hall) recommends the following routes from other major cities in the country.

Albufeira : → → → → – 2 hr 50 min Braga : → → – 2 hr 30 min Castelo Branco : → → – 1 hr 45 min Coimbra : → – 1 hr 10 min Évora : → – 1 hr 50 min Lisbon : – 55 min Porto : → – 2 hr Viseu : → → – 1 hr 50 min

Get around

Caldas da Rainha has plentiful signposts pointing toward popular sights, civic amenities, large commercial establishments, nearby communities, the A8 motorway, and Lisbon. Street signs are typically located above eye level on corner buildings. These are often made of decorative ceramic tiles. Not all intersections are clearly signed, so a maps app on your smartphone can come in handy. Many places are named for kings or queens and use the honorific royal title Dom or Dona, usually abbreviated D., before the monarch's given name.

Caldas da Rainha has several streets and squares that locals call by older or more descriptive names rather than their current official designations. Visitors are likely to encounter these places (official name → colloquial name):

Largo Conde de Fontalva → Largo da Rainha Largo da Rainha D. Leonor → Largo da Copa Praça 5 de Outubro → (Antiga) Praça do Peixe Praça da República → Praça da Fruta Rua Alexandre Herculano → Rua do Jardim Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis → Rua das Montras Rua Dr. José Saudade e Silva → Rua da Electricidade Rua Vitorino Fróis → (Rua da) Estrada da Foz

Caldas da Rainha is a compact city. Most locations of interest are within 10–15 min walking distance. Although Caldas is in a hilly region, most of the inclines in the city centre are manageable by people of moderate fitness. Sidewalks (pavements) tend to be narrow, sometimes nonexistent.

The city centre offers several car-free streets, usually with retail shops, including Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras), Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), Rua da Liberdade, Praça 5 de Outubro, and a block of Rua Miguel Bombarda.

There are no traffic lights or walk/don't walk signals in the city. Crosswalks are marked with zebra stripes, often accompanied by a blue sign with a black-and-white icon depicting a pedestrian using such a crossing. Drivers are pretty good about yielding to pedestrians using the crosswalks.

Although Caldas can present difficulties for people with disabilities, the city has made accessibility improvements and continues to do so. Many crosswalks in the city centre have dropped kerbs (curb cuts) allowing improved access for wheelchairs, prams (strollers), and other mobility devices.

System diagram (does not reflect Orange and Blue line extensions in spring 2021) Linha (Blue line) – a circuitous two-way route that serves eastern, northern, and western portions of the city, including Expoeste (exhibition centre) and Mercado Semanal (weekly market). The route differs somewhat in each direction. timetable east to west timetable west to east map east to west map west to east Linha (Orange line) – a one-way figure-8 loop serving western areas of Caldas, including Bairro Azul, Rua Vitorino Fróis (Rua da Estrada da Foz), Biblioteca (library), and Fonte Luminosa (fountain). timetable map Linha (Green line) – a one-way figure-8 loop goes to southern parts of the city, including Centro d'Artes (arts centre) and Fonte Luminosa (fountain). timetable map

Taxis in Caldas da Rainha are black with a light green roof. Older cabs have a creamy beige colour. There are two taxi stands in the city and two elsewhere in the municipality. If you are not near one, call the number for the nearest one, and the next available taxi will come pick you up.

Driving in Caldas is not recommended. The city centre has many narrow one-way streets. On-street parking is hard to find near attractions. Given the compact nature of the city and the proximity of the sights, it is easier to park for the duration of your visit and get around on foot or using TOMA.

The city does not have any traffic lights. Intersections are controlled with "STOP" signs or roundabouts (traffic circles). You will find traffic lights in some of the surrounding villages, where they slow down cars travelling through populated areas.

The municipality operates three centrally located underground paid parking garages:

Other car parks in the city include:

A vehicle is unnecessary and discouraged for visiting the city, but if you are staying in a rural civil parish or using Caldas as a base for further exploration, you might wish to rent a car.

See

Caldas da Rainha is packed with sights. There are numerous museums, mostly dedicated to art. Be sure to check out some of Caldas' lovely Art Nouveau buildings throughout the city centre.

If your time in Caldas is limited, the following sights will make the most of your visit: Parque Dom Carlos I – The city's delightful main park is a favourite destination for visitors. Praça da Fruta – The daily outdoor farmers' market offers a glimpse of daily life in Portugal and of the fresh, delicious produce of the region. Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo – The city's 16th-century mother church, a national monument, is included on most travellers' must-see lists. Museu José Malhoa – This art museum in the park is full of captivating pieces. Museu da Cerâmica – This museum in an old manor house displays local and global ceramic works. Centro de Artes — The Arts Centre has five museums, largely dedicated to sculpture. There's an outdoor sculpture garden, and the centre hosts temporary exhibits.

Casa Museu São Rafael. This museum is dedicated to the ceramic works produced by the Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro factory next door (Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro under current Portuguese spelling rules), including some original pieces by Bordallo Pinheiro from the late 19th century.

Centro de Artes. The arts centre is a collection of five museums, largely dedicated to sculpture, but also including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museums are Atelier-Museu António Duarte, Atelier-Museu João Fragoso, Museu Barata Feyo, Museu Leopoldo de Almeida, and Espaço da Concas. Beyond the works in the museums, there are numerous sculptures displayed throughout the grounds. The centre hosts temporary exhibits in galleries in the museums. Guided tours are available by appointment.

Museu da Cerâmica. Situated in a late Romantic manor house, the Ceramics Museum displays a wide collection from Caldas, from around Portugal, and from other places on the globe. The museum holds pottery pieces from the 17th through early 20th centuries, with emphasis on local artist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. The collection also includes tiles and tile panels.

Museu do Ciclismo. This small museum is dedicated to the history of cycling in Portugal. Several historical bicycles are on display.

Museu do Hospital e das Caldas. Housed in the Caza Real (royal house), this museum presents the history of the thermal hospital and its hot springs. Until the end of the monarchy, the building served as home to the hospital directors as well as lodging for the royal family when they visited Caldas. In 1992, restoration was undertaken, along with installation of the museum. The museum offers tours of the hospital and its associated heritage.

Museu José Malhoa. Located in the Parque Dom Carlos I, this small yet intriguing museum displays painting and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries, with emphasis on Portuguese naturalism and the works of José Malhoa (1855–1933). The collection includes pieces by Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro, such as the evocative sixty-sculpture set Passion of Christ. You won't find world-famous works here, but many pieces are fascinating and make the museum worth a visit. Don't miss the bas-relief figures on the façade of the building, which was Portugal's first purpose-built museum. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest). A handheld English audioguide is available.

Queen Leonor Statue. The Queen stands regally in a roundabout, facing the park and welcoming visitors to the city centre. The statue was created by sculptor Francisco Franco (no, not the Spanish dictator) and was inaugurated 15 September 1935.

Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro and Zé Povinho Statues. Take a selfie with illustrator, caricaturist, sculptor, and ceramicist Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro and his homage to the Portuguese everyman, Zé Povinho. Raphael sits on a wooden bench with enough room for you and a friend, and Zé stands behind him.

Rota Bordalliana. This collection of 20 ceramic art works inspired by Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro are spread throughout the city centre. The human figures are about life size, while the animals and plants are mostly larger than life. See a list of pieces and their locations here or here.

SILOS Contentor Criativo. Opened in 2010 in disused grain silos near the train tracks, SILOS provides ateliers, working space for artists, most of whom are students at Caldas' art and design school (ESAD). You can visit the artists' creations at the on-site Gallery Farinha, which can be booked on their Facebook page.

Antiga Câmara Municipal. The lovely pink old city hall stands on Praça da República (Praça da Fruta). The seat of the municipal government was moved to a larger brutalist building, and the old edifice now houses civil parish offices of the União das Freguesias das Caldas da Rainha - Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, Coto e São Gregório. The building was dedicated in 1750, as indicated by the "MDCCL" etched on its façade. An inscription above the clock shows "1841", when the clock and bell were added. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).

Art Nouveau Architecture. Caldas da Rainha is home to many fine examples of Art Nouveau buildings. This style was popular worldwide between 1890 and 1910, but it flourished in Portugal from 1905 to 1920. You can identify Art Nouveau by its beautiful tile façades, ornate wrought iron embellishments, and decorative stonework. Walk around the city centre to find many more gems.

Ermida do Espírito Santo. Mannerist and baroque chapel built in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 18th century. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).

Ermida de São Sebastião. 16th-century mannerist and baroque chapel. Remodeled in the 18th century, the chapel is covered in tiles depicting the life of Saint Sebastian. The building is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest). Tours can be arranged through the Museu do Hospital e das Caldas.

Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor. The raison d'être of Caldas da Rainha, the thermal hospital was founded by Queen Leonor after experiencing the healing properties of the sulfurous hot springs on this site. The older building (labeled Hospital Termal above the glass entrance doors) was begun in 1485, and the newer one (labeled Balneário Novo) was completed in 1750. The hospital continues to operate to this day, subject to closures when impurities are found in the water. The waters are rich in minerals, particularly sulphur, and are prescribed to treat joint and respiratory ailments. Tours can be arranged through the Museu do Hospital e das Caldas.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição. Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição is a modern church built in the early 1950s to accommodate the city's growing population. Construction began on 20 August 1950, with a blessing from the cardinal–patriarch of Lisbon and the presence of the minister of public works. The cardinal–patriarch inaugurated the church 14 months later on 21 October 1951. The façade and décor aren't as bleak as other mid-century houses of worship, but compared with older churches in Portugal, Nossa Senhora da Conceição seems plainer and less elaborate. Its interior is mostly bright white sparingly adorned with some blue azulejo tiles, statues, and stations of the cross. This does give it an airy, open, and sunny look.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo. Built in 1500 as the royal chapel associated with the thermal hospital, this church features Late Gothic, Manueline, and Mudéjar styles. At the behest of Queen Leonor, Pope Julius II elevated the chapel to mother church of Caldas. The interior is lined with tiles, including original Hispano-Arab tiles on the side altars. The Passion triptych over the triumphal arch has drawn the interest of art historians. Since 1910, the church has been a National Monument, the only one in Caldas. Tours can be arranged through the Museu do Hospital e das Caldas.

Chafariz das Cinco Bicas. The grandest of Caldas' fountains, this baroque waterworks was built in 1749 and is noted for the five spigots from which its name derives. The five stars surrounding the spigots represent five of the seven Pleiades of Greek mythology. The other two Pleiades are represented on the other 1749 baroque fountains: Chafariz da Estrada da Foz and Chafariz da Rua Nova. This fountain and its sisters were constructed to provide water to the populace. They were not primarily initially decorative, though they are so now. Cinco Bicas remains in good working order, but don't drink. The fountain is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).

Chafariz da Estrada da Foz. Built in 1749, this fountain was built in conjunction with Chafariz das Cinco Bicas. While not as grand, the fountain's age and good condition make it an interesting stop for visitors who enjoy baroque waterworks. It is also more integrated into the urban fabric, less standalone than Cinco Bicas. The fountain no longer functions; its purpose now is decorative and historical. The fountain is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).

Chafariz da Rua Nova. Caldas' third baroque fountain built in 1749, not as grand as the Cinco Bicas fountain, but still a pleasant sight. When you first approach the underused but lovely square, you will see a fountain in the centre, but this is not your target. Chafariz da Rua Nova stands against a wall near a staircase leading to an upper lane. The fountain is classified as Imóvel de Interesse Público (Property of Public Interest).

Fonte Luminosa. Although Bairro dos Arneiros is a lively residential area, Fonte Luminosa is one of Santo Onofre's few sights of interest for most visitors. This modern fountain, renovated in the summer of 2020, shoots jets of water illuminated by coloured lights. While you're here, check out some of the restaurants, cafés, and shops around and near the square.

Jardim da Água. A whimsical "garden" with water features, accented with ceramics, tiles, and towering sculptures. It was designed by master ceramicist Luis Ferreira da Silva (1928-2016) and built in the 1990s. This installation is one of the country's largest urban ceramic works. It honors two of the city's iconic symbols: water and ceramics.

Mata Dona Leonor. If the park is too urban for your taste, visit the adjoining Mata Dona Leonor. Tree-lined trails make for quiet, pleasant walks. You can also find picnic facilities. Planted during Queen Leonor's era, the forest was meant to protect the source of the hospital's hot springs. Trees include pine, oak, sycamore, and acacia.

Parque Dom Carlos I. This delightful park serves as the main green space in Caldas da Rainha. The paths through the flowerbeds and trees make for a pleasant walk. Visitors can rent a rowboat to circumnavigate the small lake around a little island. The boathouse is now used for art exhibitions, as is the Céu de Vidro ("glass sky"), a skylight-covered pathway between two old buildings that connects the park to the thermal hospital. The Museu José Malhoa sits in the middle of the park. The park contains numerous statues and sculptures, some of historical figures, others more whimsical and fun. The Pavilhões do Parque ("park pavilions") are several interconnected buildings, originally intended as a spa resort for the thermal hospital. They served various purposes in the past. These lovely buildings, which serve as a sort of emblem of the park, have unfortunately been allowed to decay and are on the verge of ruin. Their beauty is still evident, however, and their reflection on the lake makes for a popular photo opportunity. Word is the buildings will be revived as a hotel. The park's amenities include a playground, picnic area, tennis courts, and restrooms. The park is named for King Carlos I (Charles) who reigned from 1889 until his assassination in 1908 at the age of 44. In January 2021, Evasões magazine called the park, "One of the most beautiful parks in the country (perhaps the entire world)".

Penedo Furado de Foz do Arelho. This huge boulder with an arched opening was formed by rain and wind erosion. It is millions of years old and dates back to the Jurassic period.

Reserva Natural Local do Paul de Tornada. The Paul de Tornada is a marsh with an ecosystem containing protected flora and fauna.

Largo Frederico Ferreira Pinto Bastos. You will find this small, pleasant square in the Bairro Além da Ponte section of Santo Onofre. Away from the usual tourist track, this urban pocket provides a glimpse of typical life in a Portuguese neighbourhood. You may wish to sit at one of the outdoor cafés, or you can grab a beverage or light meal at one of the surrounding eateries and enjoy it on a public bench. The disused water pump served as the population's source of well water back in the days before homes had indoor plumbing. A few trees lend the square a feeling of city oasis. On Saturdays, the square hosts Mercadinho Das Águas Santas, a small market of handicrafts, culture, and food.

Largo Rainha Dona Leonor & Largo Dom Manuel I. These two adjacent squares lie in the heart of Caldas' Historic Zone. Largo Rainha D. Leonor—also known as Largo da Copa—houses both buildings of the thermal hospital and provides access to the park. Largo D. Manuel I has the Chafariz da Rua Nova water fountain as well as a more modern fountain. Both plazas are picturesque and offer excellent viewpoints for photos. You can find a few cafés and restaurants on or just off the squares.

Praça 5 de Outubro. This square used to host the fish and seafood market until it moved indoors elsewhere in town. Nowadays, the plaza is a centre of dining and nightlife, with numerous restaurants, cafés, and bars. Many feature outdoor seating. Music and other entertainment often grace the square. The square's name means 5 October and commemorates the 1910 revolution in which King Manuel II was deposed and Portugal was established as a republic.

Praça 25 de Abril. This square acts as a civic centre of sorts and hosts three "great powers": the brutalist modern city hall building (Câmara Municipal), the mid-century Church of Our Lady of the Conception (Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição), and the courthouse (Palácio da Justiça). This plaza holds the city's huge artificial Christmas tree each year and is a primary meeting point for the annual Carnaval (Mardi Gras) parade. The square's name refers to 25 April, the date of the Carnation Revolution in 1974 that overthrew Portugal's authoritarian Estado Novo government.

Praça da República. The city's grandest public square hosts the daily farmers' market and is called Praça da Fruta (Fruit Square) by the locals. The plaza is surrounded by many examples of fine architecture. Don't miss the lovely pink old city hall and several Art Nouveau buildings. You can find a respite from urban explorations with drinks and pastries at the kiosk on the plaza's southwestern end or at one of the area's many cafés. You might wish to also visit the square after the farmers' market finishes for the day, in order to appreciate the beautiful patterns of the stone calçada portuguesa pavement.

Do

Caldas da Rainha offers plenty of activities to keep visitors occupied, indoors or out, from culture and performing arts to beaches and sporting activities. The year's calendar is packed with holidays, festivals, and celebrations.

Bowling Caldas. Ten lanes of bowling plus snooker, video games, and Thursday karaoke. The restaurant's menu includes salads, omelets, fish, meat, pizza, pasta, and a kids' menu. Beverages include coffee, soda, milkshakes, hot chocolate, beer, wine, and liquor. Bowl. Eat. Drink. Repeat.

Centro Cultural e de Congressos. The main performing arts centre in Caldas da Rainha hosts music, theatre, film, and dance events, as well as conferences and exhibitions. The centre has a café called Momentos (Moments).

Cineplace La Vie. This is the only full-time cinema in Caldas.

Expoeste. Caldas da Rainha's main exhibition centre hosts a variety of events including car shows, bridal expos, animal exhibitions, toy fairs, and holiday celebrations.

Federação Portuguesa de Badminton. Whether you're a participant or a spectator, Caldas is the destination in Portugal for badminton. The country's governing body is located here, as is its high-performance sports centre (training and competition venue). It hosts national and international championships.

Indoor Karting Caldas da Rainha. Indoor go-karting on a 315 m track.

Infinite Roll. Infinite Roll is a board game club and shop. They also have card games and roleplaying games. They host game nights, tournaments, live streams and events. This is the destination for geek culture.

Teatro da Rainha. This theatre troupe puts on several productions each year.

Caldas Rugby Clube. Rugby is not as popular as football (soccer) in Portugal, but the country manages to field an active league. Caldas plays in the league's second tier.

Caldas Sport Clube. Football (soccer) is the leading sport for participants and spectators in Portugal. Come cheer the local team. Once in the top division, Caldas nowadays plays in Portugal's third division, confusingly called Campeonato de Portugal. The club celebrated its centennial in 2016.

Cycling. Caldas municipality has over of bicycle paths, along five routes. These include an portion of Estrada Atlântica (Atlantic Road), which goes through other municipalities for a total length of : Alcobaça, Marinha Grande, Leiria, and Pombal.

Escola de Vela da Lagoa de Óbidos. Learn canoeing, windsurfing, catamaran, kitesurfing, SUP/paddle board, surfing, foiling, wing foil, and optimist (small, single-handed sailing dinghy intended for use by children up to the age of 15) on Óbidos Lagoon. They offer courses, group lessons, private lessons, and team building. They rent equipment and will assist with accommodation and gear storage and repair. Their bar offers beverages and light meals.

Federação Portuguesa De Pentatlo Moderno. Caldas is home to the Portuguese Modern Pentathlon Federation, and the city hosts some events, including the 2021 European U17 & U19 Youth Championships (28 Aug–5 Sep).

Lagoa de Óbidos. Lagoa de Óbidos is situated between Caldas da Rainha (Foz do Arelho and Nadadouro civil parishes) and Óbidos (Vau and Santa Maria civil parishes). The lagoon flows into the Atlantic Ocean. It offers many aquatic activities, including sailing, windsurfing, canoeing, rowing, kiteboarding, jet-skiing, waterskiing, stand-up paddling. The beaches on the shore offer opportunities for swimming, sunbathing, and making sandcastles.

Praça de Touros. Controversial among even the Portuguese themselves, bullfighting continues to be a somewhat popular spectator sport in this country. The bullring in Caldas hosts several bullfights each year. As a minor consolation, in Portugal the bull is not killed in the ring within the sight of spectators. This 3,250-seat arena, inaugurated 13 June 1883, also hosts concerts and other spectacles.

Praias de Foz do Arelho. Foz do Arelho has the two closest beaches to Caldas da Rainha, about NW of the city centre. One faces the Atlantic Ocean (Praia do Mar), and other is on the calmer Lagoa de Óbidos (Foz do Arelho–Lagoa). They are connected by a narrow channel. These beaches are popular with both Caldenses and visitors. Both beaches have earned the coveted Blue Flag (Bandeira Azul). The criteria for Blue Flag beaches cover four main areas: water quality; environmental information and education; environmental management; and safety and services.

Praia de Salir do Porto. The calm waters of this riverside beach near an enclosed bay make Salir do Porto a popular beach destination for families with young children.

Skate Parque. Concrete ramps and metal rails to practice skateboard and bike tricks.

There's always something going on in Caldas. In addition to the events listed below, be sure to keep an eye on what's happening at the Centro Cultural e de Congressos (CCC), Expoeste, Escola Superior de Arte e Design (ESAD.CR), and the museums. Local newspapers and websites will list upcoming events.

Caldas Street Food Festival. Annual street food festival. Come enjoy some delicious grub al fresco and in the shadow of the city's gigantic Christmas tree.

Natal. Caldas da Rainha does not take Christmastime lightly. Decorations and lights can be found in abundance. The main (artificial) tree is found at Praça 25 de Abril. This site includes a large, illuminated "Caldas da Rainha" sign, perfect for selfies and pics. Nearly 50 city streets and squares are strung with lights and various iconic buildings are lit up. Check out the festive store windows decorated to compete for a prize from the local chamber of commerce. Roving bands and musicians delight the populace and visitors with holiday melodies.

Ano Novo. Welcome the new year with music and fireworks in the city's main square.

Carnaval. Traditionally, Carnaval celebrated one last hurrah with a huge party before the long Lenten season of repentance that precedes Easter, Christianity's most important holiday. Nowadays, Carnaval in Portugal takes on a more secular aspect, with less attention paid to religion. Festivities begin several days before, with a party for senior citizens and a children's parade. Celebrations culminate in a grand parade with costumed revelers and floats along Avenida Primeiro de Maio, the wide avenue that connects the railway station to the city hall. Young and old dress up, some preferring to make a political statement, others honouring the latest Marvel superhero or Disney princess, or dressing as fruits and vegetables.

World Press Cartoon. Annual press cartoon contest, featuring caricature, editorial, and gag entries.

Festas da Cidade. Caldas da Rainha celebrates itself with an annual municipal holiday. Music, fireworks, the presentation of medals of merit, and the inauguration of civic works mark the occasion. Associated events are held throughout the month.

Oeste Lusitano. Come see the pure-blood Lusitano horses at this exhibition.

Caldas Late Night. Caldas Late Night is a three-day celebration of music, art, performance, multimedia, and design. It's been organised annually by students of Escola Superior de Artes e Design (ESAD, school of art & design) since 1992.

FALU–Festival Artístico de Linguagens Urbanas. This urban arts festival runs throughout the city during the summer. In its first year (2020), six murals were created on buildings throughout the city. Like much in Caldas, the festival's name is a double entendre. It sounds like the Portuguese words for both "I speak" and "phallus".

Caldas Anima. The city holds numerous events under the Caldas Anima banner: magic, theatre, circus, music, film, festivals, and fairs.

Expotur - Festa de Verão / Tasquinhas. An annual 10-day celebration of summer at the Expoeste exhibition centre. Visitors can taste foods from communities throughout the municipality and watch folk dancers in traditional costumes. There are exhibits of handicrafts and ethnography.

Assunção de Nossa Senhora. Caldenses celebrate this late-summer national/Catholic holiday with a fair that has lots of food and rides. The city also holds a bullfight on this day.

Frutos, Feira Nacional de Hortofruticultura. Caldas celebrates fruits in the park. Food and drink abound. Musical entertainment nightly at 22:00. There will be 200 exhibitors and over a dozen restaurants, bars, wineries, traditional Portuguese smoked meats and charcuterie. There will also be entertainment throughout the city during this event.

Festival Internacional Caldas Nice Jazz. Caldas Nice Jazz, an international music festival, features concerts both at the Cultural and Conference Centre (CCC) and at other venues in the city, including outdoors.

Festival Ofélia – Festival de Teatro e Artes Performativas. Theatre students from the Escola Superior de Arte e Design (arts and design school), along with students from other Portuguese and international schools, celebrate the performing arts. Since its first edition in 2011, the audiences have grown ever larger.

Learn

Caldas da Rainha is home to several institutions of professional, vocational, arts, further, and higher education. Among these are a few language schools where visitors can learn Portuguese.

Caravela School. Caravela offers Portuguese instruction in several formats, including 2 wk/44 hr intensive, 9 wk/45 hr extensive, and 2 wk/40 hr mini-group and online courses. Private lessons (90 min face-to-face or online) are also available. The school will arrange accommodation and transport upon request.

The English Centre. This school offers courses in Portuguese for foreigners, from beginner to advanced. Classes are offered weekdays at 2 hours per week (120 min once a week) or 3 hours per week (90 min twice a week). Short 40-hour summer courses are available in July and August (2 hr x 20 weekdays).

Lancaster College - Instituto de Línguas. Lancaster College offers courses in Portuguese for foreigners, from beginner to advanced. Courses run for a total of 60 or 90 hours, taught once or twice a week.

Buy

With over 600 commercial establishments, Caldas da Rainha dubs itself the "Capital of Traditional Commerce". In 2026, the EU selected Caldas as the European Capital of Small Retail in the Vibrant City category. The centre of town has several shop-lined streets with many mom-and-pop stores and boutiques. Main shopping streets include Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras), Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), Rua Capitão Filipe de Sousa, Rua Miguel Bombarda, Rua da Liberdade, and Rua de Camões. The outskirts of town feature several big-box stores and hypermarkets (superstores).

If you're looking for a Caldas souvenir, buy some of the famous local ceramic pottery. The Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro factory produces useful and decorative pieces. For those who enjoy naughtier mementos, Caldas is known for its ceramic phalluses, which like the real thing come in various sizes and can be found all over town.

If you enjoy bargain hunting, head for the Chinese-immigrant-owned shops (lojas chinesas). Some can be quite large. Merchandise at these cheap stores includes household needs, home decor, small appliances, clothing, and toys.

Centro Comercial Avenida. This small shopping centre is rather old-school, but it refuses to die. It doesn't get as many visitors as in days past, but several businesses have managed to survive. It's not worth a special trip, but if you happen to be on the avenue, pop in for a look around.

Centro Comercial D. Carlos I. This two-storey shopping centre is in the middle of town. The centre is dominated by small businesses. You'll often find yourself attended to by the shop owner.

Centro Comercial Rua das Montras. This small, cozy shopping centre was opened in 1985. The centre's several shops are largely devoted to gift items. It's a good place to browse when you need ideas on what to get for the hard-to-shop-for person in your life. It offers a convenient passage between Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras) and Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim). It has an entrance to the Europeia Hotel.

Feira de Velharias. This monthly flea market in the park offers a great variety of goods for sale, from dishes to records and towels to clothing to home décor.

La Vie Caldas da Rainha Shopping Center. The largest shopping mall in Caldas da Rainha has four floors with 60 shops and services, including clothing, gifts, home décor, a large appliance and electronics store (Rádio Popular), a bookstore (Livraria Bertrand), and a supermarket (Auchan). The centre includes a food court with 15 restaurants (both Portuguese and international) and a five-screen cinema (Cineplace). Clothing stores include several owned by Zara parent company Inditex: Bershka, Lefties, Oysho, Pull & Bear, Stradivarius, and Zara Kids (but not Zara itself). Other international brands include Calzedonia, Claire's, Intimissimi, and Flying Tiger Copenhagen. The 440-space garage offers 2 hours of free parking.

Mercado do Peixe. Formerly located on Praça 5 de Outubro (which was popularly called Praça do Peixe, "Fish Square"), the city's once lively open-air fish market was moved into this more subdued indoor location. The move has meant fewer customers and fewer vendors, also a result of Portugal's growing dependence on supermarkets. But the fish market is still the place to find fresh fish and seafood caught in the waters near Caldas. When you buy here, you're buying local.

Mercado de Santana. Located at the confluence of Alvorninha, Rio Maior, and Benedita (Alcobaça), Mercado de Santana claims to be Portugal's largest open-air market. Variety from clothing to animals and housewares to fruits and vegetables. Prepared food is also on offer.

Mercado Semanal. Caldas da Rainha's weekly market is held every Monday. The market is a great source for cheap basics including clothes, shoes, linens, tools, and housewares. Plants and small animals are also for sale here. A few kiosks serve down-home Portuguese cooking.

Praça da Fruta. Caldas da Rainha's central main square, Praça da República, hosts Portugal's only daily outdoor farmers' market, located here since the 15th century. In addition to fresh fruits and vegetables, you can buy bread, cheese, flowers, Caldas' famous pottery, and other handicrafts. The most typical of local produce is the pêra rocha (rock pear).

Bordallo Pinheiro Factory Store & Outlet. You can find Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro's (1846–1905) ceramic creations all over the world. But what better place to buy your decorative and useful fruit-, vegetable-, plant-, and animal-shaped wares than at the source? The most popular design might be the cabbage-shaped soup tureen. The Golden Girls had one proudly displayed in their kitchen.

Coccodrillo. Fashion for children up to 14 years old. This is the sole Iberian branch of this Polish chain.

Drogaria das Caldas. Don't let the name mislead you, Drogaria das Caldas does not have drugs or medication. Their products are for personal and household hygiene and beauty. They carry an extensive selection of Portuguese soaps that make good gifts. They also have various retro beauty and hygiene items.

Executiva. Fine ladies wear for work or festivities.

Loja do Ca**lho!. This shop offers various styles of ceramic decoration, with an emphasis on the phalluses for which Caldas is renowned. They self-censor their name, which includes a rude Portuguese word for phallus.

Mercearia Pena. More than just a grocery store, Mercearia Pena has been selling quality traditional Portuguese foodstuffs since 1909. Especially noted for its home-ground coffee, the small shop also carries cod, sausages, cheese, spices, cookies, dried legumes and fruits, and more.

Ramiro. In business since 1952 and now owned by the founder's son, Ramiro offers ready-to-wear and made-to-measure men's clothing. Products on offer include suits, shirts, ties, hats, and overcoats.

Sportino. This local sportswear chain was founded in Bombarral in 1982. They carry international brand names—like Adidas, Levi's, Nike, Puma, Timberland—as well as new names to explore. Their forte is footwear, but you'll find clothing and accessories here as well. They also have "Premium" (Rua Almirante Candido dos Reis / Rua das Montras 54) and "Outlet" (Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra 98A) locations in Caldas as well as an authorised retail location of Barcelona clothier Desigual (Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra 98).

Surfoz Action Sports. For your surfing, skating, bodyboard, BMX, and other action sports needs.

Eat

Caldas da Rainha offers a wide array of eateries. Beyond tasty traditional Portuguese cuisine, you'll find Continental (European), Brazilian, Asian, and fast food places. Several restaurants offer vegetarian and vegan options. Caldas has more worthwhile restaurants than we can possibly list, so explore the city to discover more eateries. There are many good restaurants in the villages around Caldas, so it is worth wandering beyond the city limits, especially if you have a car. If you're self-catering, you'll find many supermarkets and neighbourhood grocery shops, as well as the farmers' market and fish market.

Savoury dishes typical of Caldas include ensopado de enguias da lagoa (stewed lagoon eels), bacalhau à lagareiro (cod in olive oil), caldeirada (fish stew), and polvo à lagareiro (octopus in olive oil).

If you have a sweet tooth, don't miss out on cavacas das Caldas. These sugar-encrusted confections are about the size and shape of a small bowl. They can be found throughout the city, but especially on Rua da Liberdade and in the farmers' market. They come in a smaller spherical version called beijinhos das Caldas. Other sweet treats include beijinhos em flor (bite-sized biscuits topped with colourful, flower-shaped sugar), trouxas de ovos (sweet poached eggs), lampreias de ovos (egg and sugar confection shaped like lampreys), and pão-de-ló (sponge cake).

Cairo Cairo. Egyptian cuisine, including falafel, hummus, lamb or vegetarian stuffed vine leaves, veal or vegetarian stuffed peppers, kofta, and couscous.

Churrasqueira Xaneca. Affordable grilled chicken to eat in or take out. Lots of other dishes are also on offer: soup, fish, meat, bread, and savoury pastries. They have two other locations: Rua do Avenal 22A and Rua Professor Manuel José António 7A, near Fonte Luminosa.

Flavours of India. Flavours of India is a vegetarian- and vegan-friendly, family-run Indian restaurant.

La Piazza Pizzaria. La Piazza offers a variety of pastas, including several preparations of penne, tagliatelle, tortellini, strozzapreti, and spaghetti. They also have several different salads. And with a name like that, they have pizza, of course—thirty different kinds in four sizes: 24 cm (9.4 in.), 31 cm (12.2 in.), 36 cm (14.2 in.), 50 cm (19.7 in.). You can eat indoors, but if it's a nice day out, you'll want to sit in the plaza that gives the restaurant its name.

Pizzeria Novo Mundo. Be adventurous and try a Portuguese take on pizza. While the menu does include some tamer pizzas, consider the Pizza Tropical (mushrooms, peach, pineapple, corn, and banana) or the Pizza Vegetariana, Atum e Ovo (vegetables, mushroom, tuna, and egg). They deliver.

O Poço do Zé. Traditional Portuguese cooking in the countryside. The menu is heavy on grilled dishes. The dining room offers gorgeous views of the green rolling hills. The property includes a deep well and a tree covered in wine bottles.

Rei dos Frangos. Rei dos Frangos specialises in grilled chickens and other grilled meats and fish and other cooked dishes. This small regional chain has 19 locations, with two in Caldas. A good option if you're looking for takeaway. Their other location is at Rua Professor Abílio Moniz Barreto 10B, near the health centre.

O Selim. O Selim (the Saddle) offers Portuguese regional and traditional cuisine, such as meat and fish, including several preparations of codfish. They are located on a side street just off Praça da República.

TBAC - The Bread And Coffee. Quirky fast food, ice cream, coffee, and more.

Adega do Albertino. Since 1989, Adega do Albertino offers traditional Portuguese cuisine in a rustic country setting. The extensive menu includes many options for appetisers, fish, meat, and desserts.

Bella Milano. Excellent and affordable Italian cuisine in Bairro Azul. The extensive menu offers a variety of pizza, pasta, salad, and desserts.

A Capelinha do Monte. Homey traditional Portuguese food, with an emphasis on steak.

Delhi Darbar. Indian cuisine in a colourful setting. The extensive menu lists over 150 items, including many vegetarian options.

Geo Restaurante. Chef Archil Shinjikashvili, a Georgian immigrant, opened Geo in October 2019. Geo fuses Portuguese, Georgian, and other cuisines, bringing new dishes to Caldas. The quirky décor is worthy of Lisbon, Brooklyn, or Berlin.

Naco na Pedra. This countryside steakhouse offers an extensive menu beyond beef with global flavours. They have a long wine list.

Safflor. Modern Dutch and Indonesian cuisine by Chef Martijn Castricum. We can visit various other corners of the globe with special weekly menus.

Toca da Onça. Bistro, tapas bar, and pub on a quiet alleyway in the city centre. They have wine, cocktails and craft beer to accompany your small plates. The atmosphere is youthful and cosy.

Funky Sushi Bar. Creative sushi in an environment reminiscent of Japan. Extensive menu includes uramaki, hossomaki, temaki, niguiri, gunkan, and sashimi.

Kabuki Sushi. Offering all manner of sushi delights in the Bairro Azul neighbourhood.

A Lareira. Portuguese and international cuisine, served in the countryside.

Maratona. International and traditional Portuguese cuisine, including a selection of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free dishes.

Sabores d'Italia. Possibly the most upmarket restaurant in Caldas, Sabores d'Italia serves as genuine Italian cuisine as you are likely to find in Portugal. This is the only restaurant in Caldas listed in the Michelin Guide ("The Michelin Plate: Good cooking" and "Comfortable restaurant").

Solar dos Amigos. Opened in 1975, this rustic, family-owned restaurant in the countryside has bullfighting decor. The menu features extensive choices of meat and fish. Special for Saturday lunches only is Cozido á Portuguesa, a hearty, traditional dish of boiled pork, beef, and vegetables. Sunday's lunch special are oven-roasted pork, roast veal, and roast lamb. The dessert display case offers numerous temptations.

Yasuke Japanese Restaurant. Chef Jailton Santos has served sushi to the Emperor of Japan.

Drink

Caldas da Rainha is home to several bars, many pastry shops and bakeries, and numerous cafés. You can find cafés all over town, including in residential neighbourhoods.

Bar 120. Bar 120 specialises in gin and tostas (toasted sandwiches, a sort of Portuguese panini). Outdoor seating allows guests to enjoy one of Caldas' pleasant plazas.

Bar Déjà Vu. Bar Déjà Vu is a lively watering hole on Praça 5 de Outubro. Enjoy seating on the outdoor esplanade.

Caldas Bar. Founded in 1955, this bar is reputed to serve the best bifanas (thinly-sliced marinated pork cutlet sandwiches) in Caldas.

Central Bar Caldas. Central Bar's vibe is cool and artistic. The bar's windows offer views of the Bairro Lisbonense neighborhood and of passing trains.

Daiquiri Bar. Another popular nightlife joint on Praça 5 de Outubro. Enjoy your beverage al fresco in the outdoor esplanade.

Pateo do Baco. Pateo do Baco (Bacchus's Patio) is a wine bar with a convivial atmosphere. Beyond alcohol, they offer various savory snacks.

WalkAbout. Located on the southern edge of town, WalkAbout offers a friendly atmosphere and cool vibe.

Café Central. Founded in the 18th century, this café on the city's main square serves a variety of light meals and desserts, as well as coffee and tea.

Cais do Parque. A café, bar, and restaurant in Parque D. Carlos I, occupying a venerable space that housed prior eateries. During pleasant weather, nothing beats sitting outdoors and watching people enjoy the park. The menu offers wines, spirits, and light meals.

Citrus Coffee. Citrus serves coffee and healthy food. They offer a smoothie and juice bar. Located on Praça da República, its first floor (2nd to Americans) offers a nice view of the plaza and its farmers' market. Several vegan options are available. Citrus offers alfresco seating.

Confeitaria Calé - Pastelaria Comtradição. Bakery and patisserie with plenty of seating in a great people watching locale. Pastel Pelicano (pelican pastry) is a local speciality. There's a second location at Rua Montepio Rainha Dona Leonor 26.

Dimas Café. This café is at the intersection of the "avenues". It has plenty of outdoor seating.

Gelataria Puzzle. This ice cream shop/café/snack bar sits across from the park. They have some outside seating, along with indoor seating.

Pastelaria Baía. "The King of Cavacas" (and other regional sweets) sits on the plaza by the thermal hospital. Grab a coffee, a pastry, and an outside table to relax and watch.

Pastelaria Dona Leonor. Enjoy a variety of pastries and other sweet treats with your coffee. There is plenty of seating inside. If it's a nice day, try to snag one of the limited outside tables, which face onto Parque D. Carlos I.

Venezia Caffè. Found at the crossroads of Caldas' main shopping streets, Venezia Caffè offers an optimal spot for people watching. Get yourself a coffee, pastries, or gelato and sit outside or inside, depending on the weather.

Sleep

Lodging in Caldas da Rainha varies from run-down pensões (boarding houses) to well-appointed city-centre hotels to cozy rural homes to seaside properties. The gamut accommodates a wide range of budgets.

Hotel Residencial Central. If you are on a tight budget and can get by with no frills, you may wish to consider this hotel. Located on a small square about a block from Praça da República, this two-star, 23-room, establishment offers basic lodging. They do have free Wi-Fi, and reception is open 24 hours.

Residencial Dom Carlos. The three-star, 18-room establishment is across from the city's main park. Free breakfast included.

Hotel Dona Leonor. This three-star, 30-room establishment is centrally located, adjacent to the mid-20th-century Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception). The ground floor has a cozy yet dated (retro?) lounge. Free breakfast included.

Nova Delpa AL. Cozy, centrally located alojamento local (local accommodation). Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi.

Olhos Pretos Pensão Residencial. This three-star, 32-room, city-centre "residential pension" offers very basic accommodation for travellers on tight budgets.

Água d'Alma Hotel. This three-star, 28-room hotel offers free breakfast buffet, Wi-Fi, and parking. The hotel is in the middle of Foz do Arelho town (with all the small-town amenities) and about from Lagoa de Óbidos. Água d'Alma has a modern and intimate bar where guests can enjoy watching the fish in the aquarium while sipping their drinks.

Caldas Internacional Hotel. Three-star, 83-room hotel at the northern approach to the city. Facilities include bar, restaurant, hot tub, swimming pool, and gym. Breakfast included.

Hotel Campanile Caldas da Rainha. New three-star, 82-room hotel that opened April 2021. It is operated by Campanile, a Flagworld brand. Amenities include free parking, 24-hour front desk, room service, free Wi-Fi, a bar, and accessible facilities.

Casal da Eira Branca. This 5-room rural property has a year-round pool, covered and heated in cooler weather. They offer free Wi-Fi and free parking. There's a game room with table tennis and billiards. Pets are allowed.

Hotel Cristal Caldas. This three-star, 115-room hotel is near the city centre, just a block north of the courthouse. Amenities include the Mestre Bordalo restaurant, a piano bar, swimming pool, meeting rooms, conference facilities, and free Wi-Fi. Free breakfast included.

Europeia Hotel. This three-star, 55-room hotel is located in the heart of the city's shopping district. Property amenities include Wi-Fi, a sitting area/lounge on each floor, a breakfast room, a cocktail bar, a billiard lounge, meeting rooms, and a business centre with internet access, 24-hour front desk, laundry service, and ironing service. Free breakfast buffet included.

Orbitur Foz do Arelho. If you're looking for a camping holiday, Orbitur's campground in Foz do Arelho offers several options from caravans and tents to mobile homes and bungalows. You can also rent a space and use your own equipment.

19 Tile. 19 Tile is a boutique hotel where each of the 7 rooms was designed by a different ceramic artist. Among numerous amenities are a shared kitchen and dining room. You can pick up local ingredients (Praça da Fruta is steps away) and cook and enjoy them onsite.

Casas dos Infantes. Enjoy a quaint countryside family stay at this rural bed & breakfast. Four refurbished country properties offer distinctive stays. Property amenities include free parking, free Wi-Fi, bicycles available, children's activities, highchairs available, BBQ facilities, outdoor fenced infinity pool with view, in-room breakfast, picnic area, terrace with sun loungers and umbrellas, laundry service, and washing machine. Room features include desk, seating area, sofa, clothes rack, kitchenette, microwave, complimentary toiletries, hair dryer, iron, refrigerator, and kitchenware. Free breakfast included.

Flamboyant B&B. Flamboyant has three suites, as well as a renovated windmill where you can stay. It's located in a quaint, hilly countryside village not far from the Atlantic Ocean. Amenities include Wi-Fi, air conditioning, infrared heating, eco-friendly toiletries, hairdryer, Nespresso, organic tea, water, fresh fruit & biscuits.

Hillside House - Suites & Spa. Choose from five suites or five residences with sea or mountain views. Outdoor swimming pool, bar, lounge, garden, terrace, free parking, free Wi-Fi, spa and wellness centre, tea/coffee maker in all rooms, pets allowed.

Inatel Foz do Arelho. Three-star, 94-room accommodation across from the lagoon beach. Amenities include gymnasium, bar, restaurant, meeting rooms, game room, Wi-Fi throughout, and private parking.

Quinta da Foz. A traditional 16th century farm with four spacious rooms, which combine classical furnishings with modern conveniences. Free parking, free Wi-Fi, tea/coffee maker in room, pets allowed. Wake up to the sounds of singing peacocks.

Quinta Japonesa. Quinta Japonesa offers rustic luxury accommodation in the countryside. Choose from two apartments, an entire holiday home, or one of three "glamping" tents.

Sana Silver Coast Hotel. The Sana Silver Coast Hotel was built on the site and in the style of the venerable old Grand'Hotel Lisbonense. A construction mishap sent the original hotel's façade tumbling down and prevented its intended reuse, so the new hotel was built from scratch. The hotel's 88 rooms offer the only four-star accommodation in the city of Caldas da Rainha. Room features include soundproofing, air conditioning, room service, safe, VIP room facilities, minibar, and flatscreen TV. Property amenities include free Wi-Fi, bar/lounge, banquet room, conference facilities, meeting rooms, concierge, 24-hour front desk, business centre with internet access, laundry service, dry cleaning, ironing service, and free breakfast buffet. The Lisbonense Restaurant offers Portuguese and Continental cuisine, with about equal parts meat and fish, and even a vegetarian option and a children's menu.