Dhaka.
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Overview

Dhaka (Bengali: ঢাকা Ḍhākā), formerly Dacca, is the capital and largest city of Bangladesh. It is the largest city by population in the historical region of Bengal and a major city in South Asia. It is a hub for trade and culture, with a long history as a Bengali capital. It has been called the City of Mosques and the Venice of the East, due to its Islamic architecture and a riverfront facing the Buriganga (Old Ganges). It is also known as the Rickshaw Capital of the World, as there are over 500,000 cycle rickshaws running on its roads. Although it is described as a concrete jungle, Dhaka has venerable green spaces, including many gardens and parks.

Understand

Dhaka (DHAH-kah) emerged as a cosmopolitan city during the Mughal Empire. Today, Dhaka is South Asia's second most populous capital after Delhi and an important financial center alongside Mumbai and Karachi.

Modern Dhaka is a thriving, colourful and congested metropolis. Being one of the most densely populated places on the planet, Dhaka can be one of the most frenetic cities in the world. Its streets and rivers are filled with colourful chaos. The city plays host to the highest number of rickshaws in the world. Dhaka is also the center of Bangladesh's textile industry, the country's principal foreign exchange earner. Experiencing the city for the first time may seem overwhelming.

Dhaka covers 360 km2 (140 sq mi) in the lower reaches of the Ganges delta. It is bounded by the Rivers Buriganga, Dhaleshwari and Turag; and their numerous tributaries and river channels. The land is close to sea level. Dhaka is vulnerable to flash floods during the monsoon.

Etyomology The literal meaning of the name Dhaka is "concealed". The enigmatic name might have originated from dhak trees found in the area; or from the 12th-century Hindu Dhakeshwari Temple.

The earliest settlements in the region date back 2,500 years. Dhaka was the capital of Bengal during the Mughal Empire in the 17th century. As the seat of administration and commerce in the Bengal Delta, the wealthiest and most fertile region in the Empire, it became one of the largest and most prosperous cities in Asia. Proclaimed as the provincial capital in 1608, Mughal Dhaka had a population of one-million people, with well-laid out gardens, monuments, tombs, forts, mosques, temples, and churches. The city was home to Armenian, Persian, Greek, Arab, Portuguese, French, Dutch, and English merchants. Its riverbanks were once dotted with numerous stately mansions and the city was described as the Venice of the East. The Dhaka District was famous worldwide for its fine cotton muslin fabrics. The British East India Company took control of the city in 1793.

In British Bengal, Dhaka and its sister city Calcutta played a tale of two cities in the region, greatly affecting the course of events in the British Raj. The short-lived Partition of Bengal in 1905 established Dhaka as the capital of Eastern Bengal and Assam and incubated the broader Indian independence movement. The All India Muslim Educational Conference in Dhaka in 1906 established the All India Muslim League. The University of Dacca gained a reputation as the "Oxford of the East" in its early years. Following the Partition of British India in 1947, Dhaka became the capital of East Pakistan. Increasing political and cultural friction with West Pakistan gave rise to the secular Bengali nationalist movement in the 1950s. The Bangladesh Liberation War in 1971 established Bangladesh as an independent country and Dhaka its national capital.

Since Bangladesh's independence, Dhaka has greatly expanded with the inauguration of Louis Kahn's capital complex in Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, the rise of posh modern neighbourhoods in North Dhaka and densely populated satellite towns. It was the birthplace of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation in 1985. The growth of the Bangladeshi economy has brought greater trade and foreign investment. Dhaka continues to face many challenges. The gap between rich and poor is widening.

The weather is subtropical. During the monsoon season, May–September, Dhaka is very hot, very humid, and very rainy, and daytime high temperatures average 32 °C (90 °F), although some days reach 35 °C (95 °F). Between the heat, humidity, and air pollution, the weather can be simply unbearable for some people during this time of year.

During the dry season, November–March, the weather is drier and cooler. Daytime high temperate average 29 °C (84 °F), and a few cooler nights may get down to 13 °C (55 °F). Visitors from cooler countries may want to visit during the dry season for this reason.

Dense fog is usually seen between November and January, and it may disrupt flights and ferry transport.

Air pollution, caused by traffic congestion, and water pollution, caused by industrial waste, are serious problems affecting the city.

Read The following is a selection of prominent works set in the city: Tahmima Anam's award-winning novel A Golden Age is set in Dhaka during the 1971 Liberation War, depicting the tumultuous era through the eyes of one family. Dilruba Ahmed's Dhaka Dust won the 2010 Bakeless Prize for Poetry. Ranging from Europe and America to the streets of the Bangladeshi capital, her sharp-edged poems mix the voices of global citizenry with Dhaka's city dwellers. K. Anis Ahmed's Goodnight, Mr. Kissinger traces the modern history of Dhaka from its status as a provincial capital in 1970 to today's densely populated megacity. Bengali author Akhtaruzzaman Elias's The Soldier in an Attic details the journey of a man during the turbulent period prior to Bangladeshi independence. The novel also contains what is arguably the most authentic description of life in Old Dhaka. Translated works of poet laureate Shamsur Rahman. Amitav Ghosh's The Shadow Lines includes a vivid description of Dhaka in the early 1960s, set against the backdrop of Hindu-Muslim riots in 1963–64. Shazia Omar's Like A Diamond in the Sky chronicles drug abuse among Dhaka's youth and an environment abandoned by a corrupt self-seeking government.

Get in

Dhaka is the hub of Bangladeshi Railways. Almost all major cities in Bangladesh connect with Dhaka by train, usually two or three times per day. There are daytime and overnight trains. The only international connection by train is with Kolkata, India, from where the Maitree Express departs early morning, three times per week.

Best bet for a tourist is to make reservations at the station or a travel agency. Trains are popular so book in advance.

By bus Buses are a popular mode of cross country transport in Bangladesh. Ticket counters are located across the city, particularly in the Panthapath and Arambagh areas. Non-AC buses travel to every major town in the country. There are several terminals located across Dhaka serving a different region of Bangladesh. Sayedabad serves buses travelling between Dhaka and the eastern divisions of Sylhet and Chittagong. Gabtali is for buses travelling between Dhaka and the western divisions of Rajshahi, Rangpur and Khulna. Mohakhali serves buses travelling around Dhaka Division, including the districts of Mymensingh and Tangail.

Shohagh. Daily services with Chittagong, Sylhet, Khulna, Cox's Bazaar, Jessore and Kolkata.

Green Line. Daily services with Chittagong, Kolkata, Sylhet, Cox's Bazaar, Khulna and Bogra.

Baghdad Express. Daily services with Chittagong and Cox's Bazar.

Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC). BRTC operates the International Bus Service twice daily with Kolkata and scheduled services with Agartala.

By car Dhaka is the focal point of the national highway system in Bangladesh. The nearest international borders to the city are the Akhaura/Agartala Border Crossing with Northeast India and Haridaspur/Benapole with the Indian state of West Bengal. Cars can be used to travel from the Indian border; but the border with Myanmar remains closed.

Most ferries arrive and leave from the port of . This area and its surrounding streets are unbelievably crowded, so allow plenty of time and keep an eye on your valuables. If arriving at the port, fight your way to the left on the frontage road and then make your first right; this turns into Nawabpur Road and leads north to the hotels. Even if you aren't staying in this area, it's easier to walk several hundred metres north to catch an onward rickshaw or taxi; the ones near the port are at a constant standstill.

Modern river transport to various large river ports in Bangladesh such as Chandpur, Barisal, and Khulna leave several times a day from Dhaka's Sadarghat river terminal. These fast catamarans reach Barisal within 6 hours from Dhaka Sadarghat terminal (morning departures are usually at 08:00). One can purchase tickets online, most hotel concierges can help with tickets. The Green Line bus operator folks also have the fast Catamaran service - please see their contact information above in the bus section.

A few colonial-era rocket steamers depart from Dhaka to Barisal, Hularhat, Morrelganj and Khulna several times per week, leaving Sadarghat at 18:00. As of December 2018, there is only one steamer per week going the whole way to Khulna (takes 26–30 hours), but most of the other days you can get at least to Hularhat, and then use a local transport to Khulna (2 hours). Tickets should be booked with the BIWTA office. The old BIWTA office in Motijheel is believed closed (May 2019) - the new office is located near Ramna Park at 21 Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue (recorded in maps.me as 'new BIWTA/BIWTC office'). The MV Bangali departs from Lalkuthi Ghat (not Badamtoli Ghat as some will tell you).

If you are planning to cross rivers while heading to southern Bangladesh by car from Dhaka, head to the ferry ports in Mawa and Aricha on the Padma River.

Ganga Vilas, the international luxurious river cruise from India, has a stop at Dhaka.

Get around

It's not a lie; Dhaka is one of the most congested cities in the world due in large part to being one of the most populous cities in the world. Dhaka has often been referred to as the "Traffic Capital of the World", and you can literally spend hours in traffic.

A poorly developed road network, an inefficient traffic system, an unskilled traffic police force, poor efficacy of traffic laws, constant construction, lack of adequate parking spaces, and bad driving habits are some of the many reasons why Dhaka has immense congestion problems.

It's important to note that not all drivers are dishonest and it's better to seek out the reliable ones and give them your business. It's also crucial to ensure that the driver knows where you're headed from the beginning, unless you're able to direct them yourself. Some drivers may claim to have local knowledge but end up taking a longer route, so be cautious. Additionally, it's recommended to carry a card with your hotel or hostel information written on it so that you can easily find your way back. A card with the actual address of your accommodation can make things even simpler.

Due to poor infrastructure and nasty traffic conditions, one of the quickest ways to get around the city is by rickshaw. Still though, getting around by rickshaw is a much better alternative than getting around by car.

This can sometimes mean drivers are apprehensive to take passengers to these areas. Additionally, foreigners should also be warned that rickshaws will sometimes begin the ride with a pitch to sell drugs or prostitutes. This is very rare. One or two simple, but firm, declines will generally solve the situation. If you're a woman, it's particularly inadvisable to ride around alone in rickshaws after dark; you're a slow-moving target asking for trouble from thugs and muggers. Take a yellow taxi instead.

The planned 6-line has finished construction. The was inaugurated in Dec 2022, and the other lines by 2030. One can travel now from Uttara to Motijheel.

By car It is not recommended for tourists or foreigners to drive in Dhaka. The road network in Dhaka as a whole is severely disorganised.

The city has a high volume of traffic, and the roads can be chaotic and poorly maintained, making driving a challenging experience. Additionally, the driving culture in Dhaka can be aggressive and unpredictable, with drivers often disregarding traffic rules and signals. Traffic police monitor most intersections to keep traffic moving, although the implementation of traffic signals at various intersections is often disregarded by both drivers and traffic police, who choose to direct cars as they see fit.

There are some options for car rental, with Europcar being the notable Western brand name. The government's Virtual Bangladesh website has more options. Many companies may also offer the option to rent-a-driver for a number of days; it is common for most middle to upper-class locals to have their own drivers.

By auto-rickshaw Auto-rickshaws, locally known as 'CNGs' (named after compressed natural gas, their fuel source) are also abundant and have meters, which drivers can sometimes be persuaded to use. The city does become very congested at times, so allow plenty of time for getting around.

By taxi Taxis ply the roads, some yellow and some black, all with meters. Black taxis start the meter at Tk 15 while yellow taxis have slightly higher standards in terms of comfort, and start at Tk 20. Black taxis are typically in notoriously poor condition and lack air conditioning. Yellow taxis are required to have air conditioning; the fleet consists mostly of Toyota Corollas, with some Mitsubishis and Hondas. The yellow taxis are also considered far safer, in comparison to black taxis and auto-rickshaws. But as of March 2021, taxis are becoming rare and are hardly seen on the roads.

By bus Buses run routes on the main roads, but are horribly crowded and noisy, signed only in Bengali and aren't likely to be of much use to travellers. The buses are also frequently involved in collisions. Save yourself a headache and take a rickshaw, or for long distances, a comfortable, air-conditioned bus or train.

By bicycle Many locals of lower-classes often use bicycles as a primary form of transport. They can be useful in their ability to squeeze through tight situations, where traffic may prevent a large vehicle from moving. Some newer roads in the capital have dual bike/rickshaw lanes. Although, there is little opportunity to buy or rent a bike, plus the roads and traffic are in such bad condition that the chance of an accident is high.

On foot Sometimes, walking may actually be the fastest way to get from point A to B. Always ensure you walk on the footpath, or if one isn't available, as far to the side of the road as possible. The road is a dangerous place in Dhaka, and many pedestrians are often injured by passive drivers. Those who are squeamish to pollution or have asthma may need to wear a mask; the air pollution from passing trucks and buses, combined with the searing heat and humidity can be overwhelming at times.

See

The University of Dhaka in Dhaka/Central was an epicenter of Bangladesh's struggle for self-determination. It has several notable colonial buildings, including the Curzon Hall, a masterpiece of European-Mughal architecture. The Burdwan House is home to the Bangla Academy. The campus also hosts the Central Shaheed Minar, the national monument dedicated to the Bengali Language Movement; as well as the tomb of the National Poet Kazi Nazrul Islam.

Gurdwara Nanak Shahi in Dhaka was built in 1830. It is the largest Sikh temple in Bangladesh and commemorates the visit of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, to Bengal in the 14th century. Ramna Green is a vast stretch of green surrounded by a serpentine lake in Dhaka/Central. Hatirjheel is a regional modernist transport system in central Dhaka with numerous bridges, flyovers and viaducts over a huge natural lake in Dhaka/Central. Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman Novo Theatre (Dhaka Planetarium) is a state-of-the-art planetarium named after Sheikh Mujibur Rahman is near the Parliament in Dhaka/Central.

Buy

If you go shopping ready to bargain then there are certainly bargains to be had among the bazars and markets of Dhaka.

Eat

Dhaka has an enormous variety of food catering to all budgets. In the upscale areas such as Gulshan and Banani there are Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Greek and Mexican restaurants, and franchises such as Pizza Hut and KFC - all at prices that the majority can't afford. Reservations are usually not required in most restaurants.

Local sweets (misti/mishti) like rasogollah and golap jam/pantuya/ledikeni are excellent, these are bite-sized soft milk curd balls dipped (drenched) in syrup, and come in white and red varieties. Shops throughout the town (and especially near Gulshan) sell imported condiments from Dubai, Europe, Malaysia and the US at a premium. Imported chocolate is especially expensive - and usually not in the best condition as it gets melted and re-solidified daily in the tropical heat. Fresh is better.

Be careful when buying food from street vendors as health and hygiene standards are not always top notch. Unlike Bangkok—street food in Dhaka is only for locals. Foreigners should stick to larger, organized (and unfortunately a little expensive) food outlets. In organized food outlets or in street stalls stick with more popular outlets where there are people inside or in line as that can indicate quality as the locals (and some travellers) and most likely to be clean and good eating. An empty restaurant or a lone food cart (with no customers) should be avoided as it's empty for a reason.

Traditional Dhakaiya spicy dish available in every corner of old Dhaka.

Bakorkhani or Bakharkhani is a traditional bakery item available in every corner of old town.

Drink

There is a party network between the different expat clubs (Dutch Club, Canadian Club, Nordic Club, International Club, American Club, etc.) and some Bangladeshi clubs (Heritage, Privilege, etc.) These clubs usually require membership to enter, or befriend a member and have them sign you in. From there, you can purchase a book of tickets or a cash card and then use it to order your drinks.

Although alcohol is most easily available at the international clubs and top hotels, there are quite a few local places to find a drink for the enterprising traveller. Local bars are to be found in most neighbourhoods but can be difficult to locate due to lack of advertising. Popular brands of beer (Heineken, Carlsberg, Tuborg, Foster's etc.) and major types of spirits are available at these places, and at much lower prices than at hotel bars.

You can try: The Dip, like most other Bengali bars, is a smoke-filled darkened room where many of its patrons would rather not be recognized too easily. Definitely an experience, nonetheless. Female patrons may feel slightly uncomfortable.

Sleep

There are a huge variety of options for accommodation in the city, varying from unkempt dormitory beds for only a few US dollars, to huge multinational hotels that have penthouses for thousands of US dollars per night.