Dilijan.
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Overview

Dilijan is a town with mild climate and fresh air to the northeast of Yerevan. It is famous for its lovely surroundings, called the "Armenian Switzerland" by the locals, due to the densely forested valleys and mountains with alpine meadows surrounding them. It is an excellent base for hiking.

Most visitors to Armenia spend all of their nights in Yerevan. Spending a night or two in Dilijan while exploring Tavush Marz region is well worth it. There are plentiful accommodations in Dilijan, from the luxury of the Tufenkian Hotel to much more basic hotels or homes. From Dilijan you can explore up to the Georgian border and the remote Shamshadin region much more easily than from Yerevan, and then continue on to Lori Marz.

Understand

The first settlements in this area were established around the end of the second millennium and beginning of first millennium BC. Some excavated collections of artifacts from that period are exhibited in the museums of Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Tbilisi, Baku and Yerevan, with the reminder kept in the Dilijan Geological Museum.

During the Medieval period this territory belonged to the Arsacid kings and was one of their favourite forest and a summer resorts used for hunting. A bit later, in the 13th century, Bujur Dili settlement was founded here. The monasteries of Haghartsin and Goshavank were built between the 10th and 13th centuries, quickly developed and have served as cultural and educational centers in the intervening centuries. Some other important religious and educational centers have also survived in Dilijan, such as the Jukhtak Vank Monastery and Matosavank Monastery.

Since the town came under Russian rule in 1801, the population has gradually grown. A school, library and several theaters were opened. In the second half of the 19th century Dilijan’s fame as of a resort center started to grow.

During Soviet years it was already widely known as a mountain climatic and balneological resort; there used to be 35 major sanatoriums hosting tens of thousands people yearly. It was popular among creative people, musicians and painters. However, all its fame faded away quite quickly after the collapse of Soviet Union, the number of tourists fell dramatically, and sanatoriums and all other tourist-oriented infrastructure went into a serious decline. The situation has started to improve. Tourists (mainly wealthy Armenians and some foreigners as well) have started coming back, giving a fresh breath to the town. New hotels and restaurants have started to appear again. There are still many signs of decline; there is a feel of abandonment and some provincial neglect (which is somehow inherent to the majority of Armenian towns). Nonetheless, pristine nature, calm and relaxed atmosphere and ancient monasteries are still the main points of interest and the main reasons to visit the town.

Tourist Information Office. It is a resource for valuable advice, maps and souvenirs. They can also find guides who can accompany visitors on their trips to Dilijan National Park. There is Wi-Fi in the office, computers for visitors and a small adjacent bistro serving coffee, snacks and beer.

The best months to visit Dilijan are May-October, the months with the most pleasant temperatures. July and August, the hottest months, have average daily highs of around 26°C. and average lows around 12°C. The coldest months are January and February, with average low temperatures around -6°C. and average high temperatures around 3°C. Precipitation is moderate to moderately low: May is the wettest month, averaging 92 mm, and June averages 85 mm, but other months get quite a lot less precipitation.

Get in

From specific destinations: Yerevan – All services for Dilijan depart from Yerevan's Northern Bus Station (Severny Avtovakzal). You can take a marshrutka heading to Ijevan that will stop in Dilijan on the way. There are also direct services between 09:40-17:30, roughly hourly (1,000 dram). Ijevan – 13:00, 14:00 Vanadzor – 08:30, 10:30, 13:00, 14:30

A taxi from Vanadzor is roughly 4,000 dram.

By tour Many companies offer day tours from Yerevan, which include Dilijan, Haghartsin and Goshavank. They can be cheaper than taking a taxi, and depart in the morning on fixed days of the week.

Get around

On foot Within town, for the most part, walking is quite easy.

By bus There are 2 bus routes starting at the mineral water plant factory (which is a starting point for hikes to Jukhtak Vank Monastery) and then crossing entire town and ending at another end of it.

Operation time: M-F 07:30-18:30, Sa Su 09:30-17:30, about every ½ hr.

If you need to get to some of the regional monasteries, your best bet is negotiating a package deal with the taxis. You can ask someone from the tourist information office help you translate and negotiate, as most of the drivers will not speak English. Don't trust any taxi driver.

By bicycle Bikes can be rented either at the Dilijan National Park's information center (at park's HQ 500 m past Dilijan roundabout, 1,000 dram/hr or 5,000 dram/day) or at the "Old Dilijan" historic center.

See

Old Dilijan historic complex. A little cobbled street with the traditional buildings. Created in 1979 by artist Hovhannes Sharambeyan. The aim of the historic center was to present the history of Dilijan, its lifestyle, and the interest of the people who live there. Here instead of the previously established workshops and houses, 16 studios were opened where you could see items used in everyday life as well as handmade works of Dilijan craftsmen and artists. In 2005 the territory was leased by American-Armenian businessman James Tufenkian, who has already had a list of hotel complexes named “Tufenkian Hospitality” Ltd.

Historic museum. In a 19th century house decorated with furniture, carpets and crockery of that time.

The Geological Museum and Art Gallery of Dilijan. Here are some excerpts from the "Page Info" page of this small museum's Facebook site: "The Geological Museum and Art Gallery of Dilijan which was founded in 1950... provides a comprehensive view of the history of the Dilijan Region, the historical development of the local people, their way of life, material culture monuments, historical and geographical conditions.""[The land of Dilijan was so rich in archeological relics] that it... was able to provide museums of the... city with [items that are] more than 3,000 years old.... The rare pictures stored here also make the Geological Museum of Dilijan a treasury." It contains works by Armenian and Russian painters, "Dutch, Italian and French painters of the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries", etc.Following your guided tour of the museum, you can participate in a hands-on workshop The Art of Printmaking which will help you discover and differentiate among the artistic processes and practices of printmaking. The workshop will also teach you the specialized technique of transferring images from a matrix (e.g., a metal plate, block of wood, stone, linoleum) onto another surface, such as paper or fabric. All necessary materials and equipment are provided to create your own print based on already-incised images on different matrices. At the end of the workshop, you will be able to take home your new artwork.

Jukhtak Vank Monastery. A nice little an 11th– or 12th-century monastery. Huge iron bands hold one of the two churches together, preventing its collapse.

Matosavank Monastery. A 13th-century small Armenian monastery, hidden in a forested area 3 km northwest from the town. It sits in close proximity to the monastery of Jukhtak Vank as well as to a nearby cemetery. The church is in ruin and it is easy to miss, and not terribly interesting from the outside, but the inside is a cool, moist, green, mossy world unto itself. The low light illuminating bright green algae-covered khachkars is very soothing, and the environment transports you far from your daily life.

Museum of Folk Art after V. Sharambeyan. The building used for this museum was built at the end of the 19th century and served as a summer house of Princess Mariam Tumanyan. Works of contemporary folk masters and self-taught artists are collected here, as are significant ethnographic exhibits.

Rundown theme park. Remains of a Soviet-era theme park. Consists of a few lanes with trees and rundown roller coasters. There have been some rumors that it will be renovated by the owners of United World College Dilijan and turned into a local Disneyland, but no exact dates are given for when this would be done.

Ecokayan Ponds. Set in a beautiful valley formed by the Kayenajur rivulet, a left tributary of Argstev river. Very charming landmark for the nature lovers, hikers and peoples to escape from the hustle–and–bustle of the cities. You may go horseback riding and fishing in the ponds, shoot an arrow in the archery, rent a summer house or even book a room in the nearby Ecokayan Dilijan hotel. You may enjoy Dilijan traditional food at the nearby Riverbend Dilijan restaurant - night club.

Aghavnavank Monastery. 12th-13th century monastic complex. The church is a small structure with the dome in the center and its depositories. It is built with yellowish polished stone. Hood of the dome and roof were covered with polished slabs, but only few of which preserved. Shaped stones of cornice fell down. There are also numerous constructions remained to the south of monument, which most probably constituted logistical and residential premises of the church congregation.

Goshavank Monastery. Goshavank monastery is surrounded by a traditional village. There is a groundskeeper who opens the main church building up for visitors and can give a tour. This is the one church in all of Armenia where entrance to one of the chambers is not free. The chamber is nice, but you can certainly enjoy the rest of the complex without it, especially since it may not be offered in English. There are excellent carved details and khachkars here, but the "lacework" khachkar at Goshavank is one of the most impressive in the world.

Haghartsin Monastery. One of Armenia's most popular monasteries, Haghartsin is nestled in lush forested mountains about a half hour drive from Dilijan. The monastery is in good condition and has a resident priest who sometimes gives tours. There are a few different churches, a large gavit, a huge dining hall, khachkars and a massive hollow tree. A slightly sweet bread is often being baked in an old oven.

Lake Parz. This clear lake is a dream, a miraculous vision. As poet Gevorg Emin says: “Go to Lake Parz, I urge you to go. One last time I tell you to go as long as the magic is there.” The lake's altitude is 1,350 m, length – 300 m, width – 70-80 m. Water temperature reaches 15.5°C at summertime. There is a restaurant overlooking the lake.

Lake Tzrka. A long time ago, leeches were bred here for traditional and non-traditional medicines. There are no longer leeches now, but the lake is called Tzrka by their name. It is better to travel by foot rather than by car to enjoy the beautiful wildlife surrounding the lake.

Mantash Fortress. It was built under the Arab rule and was one of Armenia's invulnerable fortresses. Ruins of the fortress has two entrances, the doors of which were made of large stones. The passable parts of the mountain are fortified with walls that have pyramid-shaped towers on top.

Molokan Villages. If you take the highway toward Vanadzor, a few of the villages you pass will be those of the Molokans. A Russian old believer sect, much like the Amish in Pennsylvania, they grow beards and shun technology.

Do

Copper jewelry and batik. Organised by Buduart Studio. As painters and jewelry makers, Arman Badeyan and Margarita Malkhasyan the couple founded Buduart studio, a gallery which combines a space for guests to explore their creative side. At the Buduart workshop and gallery, artists, art lovers and craft enthusiasts may gather to make jewelry or paint batik in a relaxing friendly environment under Arman and Margarita’s guidance.

Sewing history and culture. The Youth Cooperation Center of Dilijan is a non-governmental organization dedicated to increasing the civic participation of young people for community development. One of its other projects is ARMENECOOP, which provides training in leadership, entrepreneurship, sewing, and pottery for unemployed women from the Dilijan area. ARMENECOOP also offers a sewing class in Dilijan where visitors may learn about the history of sewing and make a roll-up pencil case or a tote-bag decorated with Dilijan’s distinctive motifs.

Tufenkian hotel organises various courses and tours: Horseback riding – Some of the hotels (e.g. Getap and Tufenkian Hotels) offer tours in the area (1½–6 hr) and lessons for the beginners. Cooking class – Learn how to prepare some of Armenian dishes or Armenian Khorovats/BBQ (1½ hr, 3-10 participants). Classes must be scheduled two to three days in advance. Horse sleigh ride – Snow season only.

Dilijan National Park. This park surrounds Dilijan town. Most popular activities in the area are here, i.e. hiking, because the town is compact and the surrounding countryside is beautiful and best experienced at low speeds. Some trails can also be done by bicycle—inquire at the national park HQ. It has marked trails and you can discover some lesser-known monasteries, a lake, forests, springs and wildlife. Though, it can sometimes be a "hassle" to pay the entrance, as there is usually no-one on the route who can accept the payment—it may be necessary to pay in the tourist office or the national park HQ.

The national park has the following 12 eco trails (PDFs) offering both natural and cultural attractions:

Aghavnavank Village – Redwood Grove. An easy hike suitable for a family. From tourist information center take the road north to Ijevan, after 16 km turn right (there will be a sign for Gosh & Chambarak). Drive another 11 km. Then after a bridge there will be green sign marking the trail beginning.

Dilijan – Ayridash area/Astkhakar Peak. From tourist information center drive 2.5 km along the road towards Vanadzor. Turn left to Shamakhyan village. At the highest point in the village there will see a green sign indicating the beginning of the trail.

Dilijan – Dilijan Mountains loop. This circuitous trail bringing visitors to the one of the highest peaks in the area.

Dilijan – Matosavank and Jukhtak Monasteries. A 60-120 min hike. From tourist information center take the road to Vanadzor, after 3 km turn right (there will be brown road signs for Matosavank and Jukhtak Monasteries). Travel down the dirt road for 3 km, after that Matosavank will be on the left and Jukhtak on the right.

Dilijan – Natural mineral spring Ttu Jur – Parz Lich Lake. Take the right fork 200 m after the town square—this is the beginning of the trail.

Dilijan National Park Office – Waterfall. National park office is 500 m away from tourist information center following the road north to Ijevan.

Goshavank – Gosh Lake. A short walk down from Goshavank Monastery there is a small Gosh Lich (Lake). It has a nice picnic area there.

Haghartsin Monastery – Shamakhyan Village. From tourist information center take the road north to Ijevan, after 8 km turn left ( there will be a sign for Haghartsin Monastery). Follow it for another 6 km. The beginning of the trail is 100 meters before the road ends (near the chapel with khatchkars).

Haghartsin Village – Abeghakar Peak. From tourist information center drive 10 km along the road north to Ijevan. Once passing Haghartsin village there is a small picnic area and ascending dirt road with a green sign marking the beginning of the trail.

Parz Lake – Goshavank Monastery. A 3-hr hike. There is a sign near a lake marking beginning of the trail.

A good summary of the surrounding area and the national park can also be found here.

Buy

Crafts on Sharambeyan Street around "Old Dilijan" historic complex. This street has some little shops where artisans are busy hand making their craft. Prices start from 500 dram. Visit Revik to see his wood working studio, with some great traditional designs for everything from Christmas tree decorations to cribs. The tourist information office has additional information on local crafts purchases and local painters you can visit. Grocery stores are mainly located on a square near the bus station and the town's main square.

There are a few bank branches where currency can be changed. Also about 5-7 ATMs are scattered around town and, similar to grocery stores, it's easier to find them near bus station and the town's main square.

Eat and drink

In Dilijan, drinking is done wherever people eat, not at dedicated bars. It usually entails vodka, though beer and wine are not uncommon.

Cafe Dili. Inexpensive small family restaurant with 6 tables serving Armenian food and some other fast food options. Owners assure they use only local organic ingredients for cooking and indeed it tastes really good. Portions are of decent size. WiFi. No alcohol except beer. There is adjacent bakery cooking nice cakes and cookies, which can be taken away or eaten in the cafe.

Bar & Grill "Flying Ostrich" by Dolmama. Fancy bar & restaurant with nicely decorated interior. Live music played at some of the evenings.

Restaurant Mimino. Quite cheap restaurant with exceptional Georgian cuisine. Big portions. Khingali dumplings are 2 or 3 to the US dollar... and they are not small. Decorated in a theme of old Soviet movie "Mimino". There is an outside take away grill place preparing bratwurst sausages.

Cafe #2. A large, modern cafe overlooking a lake, with food options, free wifi, and space to work.

Kchuch. Almost everything is slow cooked in ceramic kchuch in a traditional way.

Shawerma. A modern shawerma fast-food joint, with rotisserie meat served in a pita or lavash sandwich. Cheap and fast food.

Tufenkian Restaurant. Restaurant with rustic modern Tufenkian furniture and upscale Armenian menus and prices. Although it looks fancy, the food isn't particularly good. There is also a traditional bakery on the first floor of the restaurant facing the promenade street; however, it seems to work only during high tourist season (i.e. summer months).

To get into any of the following restaurants you'll need a car or a taxi. Although they seem to be worth it.

Getap Restaurant and hotel complex. Great traditional wooden eating booths outdoors, some of them over the river serve as the perfect setting for fresh fish, meat or vegetable barbecues. There is also children's playground, table tennis. Wi-Fi.

Haghartsin restaurant-hotel-bar complex. It's a pleasant and quiet place near the road from Yerevan to Ijevan with large car parking. It's possible to taste national cuisine in a modern restaurant hall or cozy gazebos among trees.

Haleb Restaurant. Syrian-Armenian cuisine, friendly staff. Restaurant consists of a detached private houses-cabins. Good reviews.

Kessab Restaurant. Western Armenian/mid-eastern food. Good view.

Sleep

Dghyak Pansion. Dghyak Pansion was constructed in 2010. Bedrooms are on the first and second floor, which also has a large conference room. There are 21 comfortable rooms (Junior, Standard, Superior, Family, Deluxe and Lux). One room has two furnished bedrooms. Amenities: 21 rooms, bathroom, satellite, billiard/tennis, conference hall, garden, hot/cold water, swimming pool.

Diligence Hotel. Spacious rooms with brand new furniture. Hotel is surrounded by a forest. Friendly staff. However, weak WiFi inside rooms.

Dilijan National Park. The National Park's information center provides a broad range of tents for camping, and also rents bikes (1,000 dram/hr or 5,000 dram/day) and small gas cookers.

Nina B&B. Pretty simple rooms in a typical guesthouse. Some rooms are in the house where host lives, but a few others are in a small detached cottage. Near the town's center. Wi-Fi.

Petit Dilijan B&B. A very comfortable, clean little B&B. It feels like a real homestay option, while being very professional and thorough. The owner speaks very good English. There is also an option of having breakfast and dinner prepared, which is very recommendable.

Casanova Inn. Inn consists of two 3-storey houses and features a sauna, indoor pool, snack bar, free Wi-Fi. Good and warm reviews on a booking sites. It can get noisy due to the cars passing the nearby road.

Daravand Hotel. Guesthouse was opened by an Armenian carpenter on the scenic road to Jukhtak Monastery. Built in a quiet canyon, the guesthouse is very comfortable and cozy. Seven guest rooms are available. A library and games room and billiard room are available for gaming. Open air dining area is also available, overlooking the beautiful valley. The bar, living room and nice garden provide areas for guests to congregate and relax. The owner Razmik is very accommodating, helpful and speaks decent English.

Dili Villa Guesthouse. It is a three-storey house with a winter garden, charming loggia with a fireplace, studio and a nice balcony with the breathtaking view of mountains. Dili Villa offers dinner/lunch service, a free pick up service in Dilijan, as well as sightseeing tours by 4x4 SUV. The guesthouse has a Sat TV and Wi-Fi internet. Capacity for overnight stay: up to 13 people and for the meal: up to 30 people.

Haghartsin restaurant-hotel-bar complex. It's a pleasant and quiet place near the road from Yerevan to Ijevan, with large guarded car and bus parking. There are 21 comfortable rooms(DBL/TWN/TRPL), 10 comfortable cottages and 10 motel rooms with SPA and Sat TV in the hotel, a conference hall with large plasma screen, heated swimming pool, fitness hall, children's room and playgrounds, billiards (snooker and Russian), Finnish and Russian sauna and bar. The hotel's atmosphere is something of a woodsy mountain retreat. Also here you can taste national cuisine in a modern restaurant hall, wedding hall, banquet room, open-air summer cafe or cozy gazebos among trees.

Best Western Paradise Hotel Dilijan. 4-star hotel built in 2011. Far away from the center. Restaurant serves only European cuisine. This is the place where most of European package tourists stay. All rooms are quite big and have balconies. Overall, good value for the money.

Takht House. A two-storied rural old mansion that was reconstructed and now is rented to tourists. It has 4 bedrooms and can accommodate up to 8 people.

Tufenkian Hotel. Part of the high end Tufenkian chain of hotels; good location. Located in renovated 19th century-style Ananov Guest House.

Villarest Cottage Complex. Premium hotel consisting of a group of cottages in a mountainous environment a few kilometers away from Dilijan on the way to Parz lich lake. Hotel has a garden, children’s playground, ski storage, free WiFi, restaurant serving Armenian and European cuisine.