Doha.
Your next chapter?

Overview

Once little more than a minuscule pearl fishing village, Doha (Arabic: الدوحة ad-Dawḥa), Qatar's capital, with more people than the rest of Qatar combined, has emerged to become one of the pearls of the Middle East. It is one of the most rapidly-developing cities on the Persian Gulf, akin to the development seen in nearby Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and is aiming to become a centre of international trade and travel.

We also cover the neighbouring cities of Al Rayyan and Lusail in this article, as they are effectively part of the Doha urban area.

Understand

For most of its history, Doha was a poor fishing village dependent on pearl diving, and was regarded as a sleepy backwater until the early 1990s. Following the accession of Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani as Emir in 1995, however, Qatar quickly began to modernize, and Doha is now taking huge strides to catch up with other nearby Gulf cities. Development was accelerated by hosting the Asian Games in 2006 and the FIFA World Cup in 2022. The city is very much a work-in-progress, with a rapidly growing skyline and new buildings sprouting up almost like mushrooms.

For most visitors, Doha is synonymous with Qatar, as the vast majority of the country's population resides in the capital city. Doha has an astonishingly diverse population – only 13% of its residents are Qataris. Although Arabic is Qatar's official language, English is the lingua franca; most retail and service staff are foreigners and do not speak Arabic. Doha is also now one of the fastest-growing cities in the world, as workers continue to pour in to help build the developing economy.

Doha is fairly liberal by the standards of the Islamic world, though less so than its main rival Dubai and most Western countries. Alcohol and pork are legal for non-Muslim foreign residents, and non-Muslim women are not required to wear the hijab, though dressing in very skimpy outfits is still illegal. That said, Qatar is an absolute monarchy, so criticising the Emir is a crime. Homosexuality is also a crime that carries the death penalty (though not actively enforced), so gay visitors should be as discreet as possible.

If you've visited before, be assured that Doha today is not the same as it was just a couple of years ago, and will be very different again in a few years time.

Read Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, From Dunes to Dior. Written by a resident Indian-American, this is a collection of insightful essays about life as an expatriate in Doha. Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, Love Comes Later. Set in Doha and London, this novel examines Qatari culture and how young Qataris are now challenging the status quo. The book is not available in Qatar as it has been banned by the Qatari Ministry of Culture.

Get in

Compared to Dubai, the home of Qatar Airways' arch-rival Emirates, Doha is served by much fewer other carriers. The major European airlines usually provide a single connection to Doha from their main hubs (e.g. Lufthansa from Frankfurt, KLM from Amsterdam), but minor ones do not. Pretty much all airlines of the Middle East, Turkey included (but not Israel), provide connections to Doha. Relatively few Asian airlines do so, however, with the exception of a relatively good choice of connections to India and Pakistan.

Qatar Airways is a member of the Oneworld alliance (which includes e.g. British Airways), and an increasing number of their connections are also on offer as codeshare flights by Oneworld members.

If you're arriving from outside of the Persian Gulf region, probably the most economical way to visit is to use Qatar as an intermediate stopover en route to another destination. Prices of tickets originating in or terminating in Doha are artificially high because of limited competition, while prices for transit tickets are very competitive, as Qatar Airways continues working to build Doha as a global transit hub.

Public Wi-Fi is provided free of charge throughout the airport.

By car Doha is the heart of all activity in the country, so most travellers will start off in the city. All highways and roads throughout Qatar will most likely connect to Doha, so look out for the signs.

Qatar's only land border is with Saudi Arabia in the south. However, this is rarely an option, as obtaining permits to drive through Saudi Arabia can be extremely difficult. The Qatar article provides more information. Early plans are underway to connect Qatar using bridges with both Bahrain in the northwest and the United Arab Emirates in the southeast.

Get around

By metro The Doha Metro, which opened in May 2019, is the third rapid transit system in the Gulf, representing a new wave of transit projects in the region. It has three lines: the Red Line from Lusail in the north to Al Wakra in the south or the airport depending on the train, the east-west Gold Line that features a stop at the National Museum, and the Green Line, which focuses on educational institutions in particular and has a stop at the National Library. Msheireb serves as the transfer station between every line.

Like the Dubai Metro, there are premium cars with better seating and higher prices. You pay by tapping your card when you enter and exit the system. Cards are not expensive and can be purchased at any station. You don’t have to do anything special to get the day pass; after you pay for 3 rides the system will not charge you for the rest of the day.

There are free "metrolink" feeder bus services for "last-mile" connectivity to areas not served by the Metro (see the link for schedules and routes). In addition, there is a free (with Metro trip) ride-sharing service called "metroexpress", but it only serves two stations (West Bay and DICC) and requires registration and a separate account.

Every metro station has a restroom with baby changing table and an ablution room, right after the turnstiles. The two rooms are next to each other; the women’s rooms are indicated by a person wearing black clothing, and the men’s rooms by the person wearing white clothing.

Shuttle bus. In order to ease ever-increasing traffic congestion, Mowasalat operates a free shuttle bus service, servicing passengers with two routes in the West Bay (downtown) area; plans are underway to offer more routes. A route map (Arabic and English) is available for download. Friday service is 'family only', i.e. solo men are not permitted.

Doha Bus. It offers a hop-on, hop-off tourist bus service, with stops at various locations between the Marriott Hotel and the Pearl-Qatar. Buses arrive at each stop every 20 minutes. If you're doing this on your last day in Doha, they will arrange to pick you up at one of the main stops along the route and transfer you back to the airport for a not-unreasonable QR 50.

By taxi Other than public transport, the only alternative to not renting a vehicle is taxis. There are many taxi services, two of them also operated by Mowasalat: Karwa and Al Million. Uber is also a popular alternative to these two. Keep in mind that TaxiF services are, at the time of editing, illegal, so do not book a ride from them.

Because of increasing complaints regarding taxis, some precautions should be taken. For nearly all journeys within Doha the tariff should be set to '1', and for journeys at night or outside of Doha it should be set to '0'. Airport taxis have a single tariff, which begins at QR 25. Reports of tampered meters are on the rise (look for black tape or paper), as are reports of drivers locking the doors or refusing to open the trunk without extra payment. If the driver refuses to use the meter, the ride should be free, but you may have trouble exercising this right. If you have problems, you can call the police at 999, at which point the driver will suddenly be very cooperative.

The demand for taxis far exceeds the supply and waiting times may vary greatly. During morning business hours, companies usually require 24 hours notice if you need a taxi; however in practice, even this is unreliable as the scheduled taxi often doesn't show up. At other times, it may take upwards of 90 minutes for an on-call taxi to arrive, and hailing one may be impossible in many places. The only places where you are guaranteed to find a taxi (normal or limousine) are at major malls, the airport and international hotels. The acute shortage has led to a thriving market for unlicensed, or unofficial, taxi services, most with a steady clientele. For visitors, the best way to find a reliable driver is to ask around – many residents, particularly expats, hire such drivers regularly and will happily share contact information.

Occasionally, you may find a local driver will stop and offer to give you a ride if he or she sees you looking lost on the side of the road. It is customary to offer some money at the end, though sometimes they will refuse to take it. If a driver slows down and flashes their headlights, they are usually signalling they're willing to give you a lift; beckon them over with a wave in response. However, hitchhiking always has its risks, and it is not an advisable practice for solo women.

By car Several car rental agencies are found in and around Doha International Airport. The rental desks are not that easy to find and the signs to them are poor. They are on the lower floor in the car park area. The popular agencies include Hertz, Avis and Budget. These rental agencies offer seasonal discounts and it is advisable to check their websites before booking. As of late 2013, visitors can drive a rental car for six months with an international driving licence. However, the laws regarding driving licences change almost yearly; visitors are advised to verify this information before arrival.

Driving in Qatar is on the right hand side of the road, with similar traffic rules to elsewhere in the world. However, because Doha residents come from all corners of the globe, driving styles vary wildly. Also, road rage is becoming more of a problem.

Expansion of the road network has not kept up with the explosive population growth, so drivers will encounter frequent traffic jams and numerous diversions due to road construction. With the addition of new roads, and the renaming of old roads, even the latest available road maps may be out-of-date. This also applies to satellite imagery, which can be outdated, even when it is only a few months old. So do not rely on Google Earth, OpenStreetMap or your TomTom.

By tram There is a tram service in Lusail and Msheireb Downtown, the latter being free to use.

See

Museums The National Museum, Museum of Islamic Art, and Museum of Modern Art have a single three-day ticket for QR 85. Alternatively you can visit just one of them for QR 50.

Museum of Islamic Arts. Doha's flagship museum. Housed in a building designed by I.M. Pei, the museum hosts artefacts from Muslim dynasties all over Asia, Africa and Europe. Also present are items from the Al-Thani dynasty, as well as art from all parts of the Middle East. Gloriously air conditioned, there is also a cafe and gift shop. The permanent exhibition is on the 2nd and 3rd floors, with temporary exhibitions on the ground floor. Free wi-fi in the museum building, dress appropriately. An hourly shuttle service provides free transportation between MIA and Mathaf W-Su 11:00-17:00; driving time between the two museums is 25-35 minutes.

Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art. A specially designed building housing a collection of modern art from the Arab world, based on a personal collection amassed by Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. The museum also hosts occasional exhibits featuring internationally-recognized contemporary artists. An hourly shuttle service provides free transportation between MIA and Mathaf W Th Sa Su 11:00-17:00, F 15:00-20:00, no shuttle M Tu; driving time between the two museums is 25-45 minutes.

National Museum of Qatar. Opened in early 2019. The original museum was housed in an early 20th-century palace; its extension, now under construction, was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel and inspired by the desert sand rose. The extension and original palace can both still be viewed from the outside.

Orientalist Museum. The Orientalist Collection of the State of Qatar is one of the most significant collections ever assembled in the world. The approximate 700 paintings, water colours, drawings and prints trace Orientalism back to the early 18th century. The museum closes sporadically and it may be difficult to get an appointment.

Arab Postal Stamp Museum. Established in 2010, this small museum exhibits stamps from 22 Arab countries.

Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Museum: West Bay Branch. An extension of the Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Museum in Al Shahaniyah, this branch displays carpets from various Middle Eastern countries, and furniture and domestic objects from Qatar and the Gulf region. It is eventually planned to make the collection accessible without appointment.

VCUQatar Gallery. VCUQatar have a small gallery, with exhibitions which change every few months, in their campus on Education City, which is open to everyone (sign in at reception). Because of the ongoing building works at Education City, it's a nightmare to get from Mathaf to here, but when the trams are running it should be an easy side-trip from there!

Msheireb Museums. A collection of four historic houses in the new downtown district of Msheireb: Mohammed bin Jassim House, Company House, Bin Jelmood House and Radwani House. They feature exhibits on the Msheireb community, traditional Qatari family life, the history of the oil industry, and slavery and exploitation.

Firestation Artist in Residence. Has an art supply store and cafe on site.

Al Koot Fort. Built in 1880 during the Ottoman period, this big white fort is in what is now the parking lot of Souq Waqif. At the time it was built, however, the fort was on the outskirts of the city. It was used as an ethnographic museum, the building is undergoing renovations and is closed, although it is still a popular place to take photos.

Fanar Qatar Islamic Cultural Center. Easily spotted from the Corniche with its distinctive spiral minaret, the center aims to educate non-Muslims about Islam by offering free Arabic classes as well as art and calligraphy exhibits. The center conducts bi-weekly tours of local mosques followed by a traditional dinner (abayas provided for women, registration required), and also hosts weekly coffee mornings with presentations on Qatari culture and lifestyle (registration required).

Clock Tower. Next to the Grand Mosque, this old clock tower features Arabic numerals on its face. The tower is also on a hill, and as such offers some wonderful views of the Corniche.

Windtower House. One of the last traditional windtowers in Qatar. Windtowers were used in the days before air conditioning, functioning by sucking cool air into a house. The house is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.

Souq Waqif. Souq Waqif is the renovated Arabic market quarter, where one can easily wander around the maze-like corridors for hours. The souq is organized more or less by what is sold. There is a section of spice shops, another of textiles, and even a quarter with falcons for sale. Stables with Arabian horses are not far from the falcons, and camels are kept near Al Koot Fort and the parking lot. Also look for places to buy souvenirs, sit down to smoke a Sheesha, or enjoy food at one of the restaurants bordering it. Traditionally-dressed Qatari police occasionally patrol the souq area, in the morning mounted on camels and in the evening on horseback. The souq was completely rebuilt on the site of an older souq, and therefore can feel somewhat artificial; however it is a very popular place for locals, particularly on weekends.

Msheireb Enrichment Centre. A small museum with photographs and artifacts illustrating the historic development of Doha from small fishing town to modern city. The exhibit is sponsored by developer of the Msheireb project near Souq Waqif.

Heritage Library. Over 51,000 books in Arabic and other languages on Qatar and the Middle East, together with 600 antique maps, 2,000 manuscripts and 6,000 original photographs, form the Arabian and Islamic Heritage Library in Qatar, another initiative of HH Sheikha Mozah Bint Nasser Al Missned through Qatar Foundation. It is one of the largest research centres in the Middle East, and is based on a collection started by Sheikh Hassan Bin Mohamed Al Thani in 1979. Tours of the collections are offered twice on Sunday and Tuesdays, at 10:00 and 11:30, no appointments required.

Qatar National Library. Opened in April 2018, the building was designed by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas.

Virginia Commonwealth University Gallery. The gallery at the VCU-Q campus in Education City regularly hosts visiting exhibitions and the work of faculty members and students. On those occasions, the gallery is open to the general public. The collection includes Arab manuscripts, a foreign language section dating back to the 15th century, and 20th century books about art and politics.

Heritage Village. Its buildings are modeled on a traditional Qatari village. Visitors can expect to see weaving, pearl trading, and a dhow (traditional boat). The village is open only for Ramadan, Eid, and special cultural festivals.

Al Najada. For a glimpse of some older Qatari architecture, it can be worthwhile to wander around some of the older neighborhoods surrounding Souq Waqif, particularly the small neighborhood to the immediate south of the souq. There are still a few notable old villas and mosques which predate the mostly 1970s-era buildings; given the pace of redevelopment in Doha it is unclear how much longer they will survive. Best explored on foot. (As the current inhabitants are exclusively male immigrants, women will feel uncomfortable without a male companion.)

House of Sheikh Abdullah bin Thani Al-Thani. A traditional Qatari home, remarkable because it has two instead of one 'majlis' (guest reception area). Built in 1935 using traditional materials and techniques, it has been fully restored. The building is not open to the public, but can be viewed from the outside.

Corniche. The visual highlight of Doha is Al-Corniche, a long seaside promenade that curves around Doha Bay and affords pretty views of Palm Tree Island and the city's skyscrapers. In the afternoons you will see plenty of locals strolling, often trying to get out of the way of the odd crazy Western ex-pat on rollerblades. It's also a good place for jogging. Cycling is prohibited. If you're looking to have the scenery all to yourself, go on a Friday morning.

Highlights along the Corniche (from east to west) include an informal morning fish market, the MIA (Museum of Islamic Art), the 'Water Pots' fountain, the giant Oyster and Pearl sculpture, the Dhow Harbour (with traditional wooden dhows), and a giant 'Orry' statue (the mascot for the 2006 Asian Games).

Al Bidda Park. Formerly known as Rumeila Park, this is opposite the Corniche with an outdoor theatre, art gallery, water features, children’s play area and skateboard/rollerblading half-pipe. There is a metro station, several shops, a third-wave coffee shop, and public toilets.

Katara Cultural Village. This building complex is designed to resemble a traditional Qatari village, and includes a large open-air amphitheater, opera house, drama theater, galleries, as well as a number of (expensive) restaurants featuring international cuisine. The galleries host changing art and photography exhibits, and various festivals are held here throughout the year. There is also a public beach here (entry fee QR 100) which offers watersport activities. Modest beach attire is required, i.e. for women a one-piece suit.

Al Jazeera Studios. One of Qatar's claims to fame is the Al Jazeera news network, which broadcasts to hundreds of millions around the world. The studios are not made to be a tourist attraction, although you may be able to contact the office and ask for a tour. A small on-site museum is dedicated to journalists who have died in the field, and has various timelines and displays about the network's history.

Doha Zoo. The zoo is undergoing major renovation and refurbishment, and is closed.

MIA Park. This modern park was built on reclaimed land and affords great views of the West Bay skyline. Visitors can rent bicycles or paddleboats, and enjoy coffee or ice cream at a small café. At the end of the promenade is the monumental sculpture '7' by American sculptor Richard Serra. During the winter the MIA Park Bazaar is held on the first Saturday of every month, offering an eclectic mix of food, arts, crafts, books, and souvenirs.

Calligraffiti Murals. In 2013 the French-Tunisian graffiti artist eL Seed was commissioned by the Qatar Museum Authority and the Public Works Authority to paint a series of 52 large-scale murals inspired by Qatari culture. The project required four months to complete and showcases eL Seed's signature style fusing Arabic calligraphy with street art. The murals can be best seen by simply driving through the tunnels.

The Miraculous Journey. A series of 14 monumental bronze sculptures depicting the stages of development of a fetus from gestation to newborn, by British artist Damien Hirst. The medical center is a women's hospital.

Ministry of Interior building. A massive and actually quite sinister building resembling a fort, (usually) only to be seen from outside during a drive around.

Asian Town. A mall, activity centre, amphitheatre, cricket stadium and accommodations catering to migrant workers. Cricket matches are a truly unique experience, and the mall boasts Qatar's cheapest prices. It is controversial for its alleged usage to isolate migrant workers from broader society (though defenders argue it provides much needed housing and community for migrant workers), and is unfortunately often considered a no-go zone for most women.

Do

Doha has a reputation for not being the most exciting place on earth; however, should you find yourself here for a longer visit, there is a variety of activities and events. Start off with a tour of the city, which should take you about 2 hours and from there you will have a good idea of what you would like to see.

Beaches. There are well-maintained private beaches in Doha owned by hotels, which permit public access for a fee. Hotels with beaches include the Grand Hyatt, Diplomatic Club, InterContinental, Sheraton, Sharq Village, and the Four Seasons, with fees ranging from QR 180 for weekday passes to annual family memberships. Additionally, the Katara Cultural Village operates Doha's only public beach, with an entry fee of QR 100. On private beaches western swim wear is acceptable, but on public beaches women should dress more modestly (i.e. with long water shorts and t-shirts).

Dhow tour. Day or evening dhow cruises can be arranged with any of the dhows docked along the Corniche. Many cruises offer meals and entertainment, and can be booked for large tours or for more informal arrangements.

Doha Film Institute. Showcasing a wide range of international and art films, DFI also hosts two international film festivals, in November and in March. Films are screened at the Museum of Islamic Art and at Katara Cultural Village; tickets can be booked online.

Doha Golf Club. The only golf club open to the general public.

Drag racing. Drag racing is promoted by the Qatari government on an organized racetrack so young drivers do not feel the need for crazy driving on the streets of Doha. For a fee you can race your own car, or you can watch one of the regularly-scheduled professional races.

Football: Qatar hosted the 2022 FIFA World Cup and 2024 Asia Cup. The men's national soccer team don't have a fixed stadium but most internationals are played in Doha. Qatar Grand Prix: Formula One motor-racing is held at Losail Circuit 45 km north of the city. The next are 27-29 Nov 2026 then 3-5 Nov 2027.

Jungle Zone. 3500 m² of animal-themed children's attractions, Qatar's most popular indoor theme park.

Kayaking. Entalek Adventures offers guided sea kayaking trips within Doha, or further afield along coastal mangroves and secluded beaches, with opportunities for birdwatching and camping. They also conduct guided snorkeling trips, and can rent out fully-outfitted kayaks (QR 200/day).

Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club. Horse racing takes place during the winter months, with races scheduled every Thursday beginning at 16:00 and lasting until about 21:00 Gambling is prohibited, but attendees can enter free raffles to guess the winning horses, with substantial prizes (including cars). These races are very popular. The showpiece race here is the HH The Amir Sword, held in February every year, one of the most prestigious races in the world for purebred Arabian horses. The Club also hosts an Arabian horse show every March; details are published in the local press.

Sailing. Regatta Sailing Academy offers sailing courses and a range of boats for hire, including funboats, dinghies, and two 30-foot yachts.

Sheesha. A typical Middle Eastern activity in the afternoons is to find a sheesha cafe and smoke some fruit-flavoured tobacco. One of the best places in Doha is Ras-Naswa at the non-Sheraton end of the Corniche. It's in a picturesque old-style building reminiscent, in colour and texture if not grandeur, of the red Mughal structures in India. Ras-Naswa has a nice outdoor garden and serves decent Middle Eastern food.

Al Shaqab Horse Centre. A state of the art horse riding facility and equestrian centre highlighting the importance of the Arabian horse and the detailing the history of equestrianism in the area.

Aspire Park. The largest park in Doha. Lots of grass, trees, playgrounds.

Buy

You can buy pretty much anything you want in Doha, apart from pork products and alcohol (except with a licence or in the major hotels). Shopping is a major leisure pursuit of many Qataris and expats; prices however are somewhat higher than in Dubai. As with in most of the Middle East, be prepared to bargain.

Also, be aware that most of the luxury malls and some souks schedule "Family Days", most commonly Fridays, weekends and public holidays, where all single men should in theory be turned away at the door. In practice, however, most Qatari and white men will be allowed in with no issues, but African and non-Qatari Asian men (particularly South Asians in their native dressing) will be turned away.

The best shopping experiences are undoubtedly to be had in the various souqs (markets).

Souq Waqif. Also referred to as the Old Souq, this is the best place to pick up souvenirs and rub shoulder with locals. There are good restaurants and sheesha cafes here. There are also falcon shops, and some dealers will allow you to handle and photograph them. Also worth visiting are the horse stables (near the falcon shops) and the camels (near Al Koot Fort).

Gold Souq. The place to buy gold and jewellery. The purity of gold is strictly regulated, so you can be sure of the quality.

Fabric Souq. This comprises three different neighboring souqs (Al Ahmed, Al Asiery, and Al Dira). Here you can choose from a selection of exotic fabrics and have clothing designed and tailored to your specifications. For a complete outfit, allow about a week or two for completion.

Omani Souq. Here you can buy things like spices, incense and woven baskets. Next door is a vegetable market.

Typically most malls in Doha are open Sa-Th 10:00-22:00. Most will be closed on Friday mornings but will open up during the evening, when they'll be the most crowded.

City Center Doha. The largest shopping centre in Qatar. In West Bay, the modern part of the city on the northern end of the Corniche, it offers a large and diverse shopping experience, including several jewellery and perfume stores. For entertainment there is a large multiplex cinema, a bowling alley, a children's arcade, as well as an indoor ice skating rink. There are several eating options including two food courts and several sit-down restaurants. By western standards, this mall is quite dated for its age, but remains popular due to its large size and ideal location. Finally, the mall is home to a large Carrefour hypermarket.

Ezdan Mall. One of Doha's greatest malls, with 200 tenants and a Carrefour supermarket. Not all shops are open yet.

The Gate Shopping Center. 280 shops with mostly luxury goods. The popular bistro 'Jones the Grocer' is also here.

Hyatt Plaza. This shopping mall is smaller than others, but as a plus it is always less crowded. There is a good sized food court and a large children's playland called "Jungle Zone."

Lagoona Plaza. Mostly high-end luxury goods, with a Carrefour grocery store.

Landmark Shopping Mall. Focuses mostly on clothing, jewellery, and cosmetics. There is also a Carrefour hypermarket for groceries.

The Mall. Tourists are better off going to any of the aforementioned locations if they wish to purchase store goods.

Villaggio Shopping Mall. Near the Aspire Centre. The mall is designed to look like Venice in terms of architecture, and is home to many western stores, as well as a large Carrefour. The food court is home to several Western-style fast food restaurants, and several sit-down options. For entertainment, there is a long canal offering gondola rides (QR 15), an ice-skating rink (QR 30), and a cinema with 13 screens and one IMAX screen.

Mall of Qatar. One of the newer malls, located on the outskirts of Al Rayyan, with numerous luxury brands.

Place Vendôme. Located in the new development area of Lusail just north of Doha, this luxury shopping mall is extraordinarily opulent and designed based on the traditional French architectural style.

Bookshops The availability of English-language books in Doha is fairly limited but improving, and there are several shops which offer some current titles as well as regional travel guides. Carrefour, Lulu Hypermarket, and Megamart all sell international magazines and newspapers along with local maps.

Jarir Bookstore (Salwa). Sells Arabic and English language books, and a good selection of international magazines and newspapers. Also has a Costa coffee bar. There is a second branch near Education City, on Al Rayyan Al Jadeed Rd.

Virgin Megastore. Stocks books and magazines in Arabic, English, and French. A second branch in Landmark Mall has a much smaller selection.

Eat

Given the population diversity in Doha, there is a large variety of different types of cuisine, including Indian, Thai, Chinese, Italian, Korean and, of course, typical Middle Eastern food. Since Qatar is a Muslim country, all food is certified halal. Zomato is a popular restaurant review site and Talabat is a common delivery site.

If you are visiting during Ramadan, keep in mind that it is illegal to eat and drink in public during daylight hours, and all restaurants, including those in hotels, are not permitted to serve dine-in customers during this period. However, some restaurants remain open to sell takeaway meals to non-Muslims that you can take back to your hotel room and consume in private. However, iftar or the breaking of the fast after sunset, is a very elaborate event, as locals gather for large communal meals. Many establishments set up large tents for iftar, and non-Muslim visitors are welcome to partake in them; just make sure you reserve way in advance due to their popularity.

As Qatar is a Muslim country, nearly all food in Doha is halal. Pork is not served at restaurants, but is available to foreign residents with a liquor license at the two liquor stores run by the Qatar Distribution Company (QDC). This license is not available to tourists.

American Most major American fast food chains have multiple branches here, including McDonald's, KFC, Hardee's, Arby's, Burger King, Subway, and Dairy Queen.

Pizza places include Pizza Hut, Little Caesars, Pizza Inn, and Papa John's. Many of them are in the major shopping centres, and at Ramada Junction (the intersection of C-Ring and Salwa Rds).

There are also a number of more upscale American chains, including TGI Fridays (in the Landmark, Villaggio shopping malls, Bin Omran Opposite the Civil Defense and Suheem Bin Hamad Street, Al-Sadd), Applebee's, Chili's, Fuddruckers, Bennigan's, and Ponderosa Steakhouse.

Ric's Kountry Kitchen. Serves up large classic American breakfasts, and one of the few places in Doha with real bacon and pork sausages.

Yellow Cab Pizza. This is undisputedly the most popular pizza in Doha, surprisingly offered by a well-established and efficient Filipino operation. The barbequed chicken pizza is particularly tasty. Delivery and pick-up available.

Noodle House. Offers a number of southeast Asian-style dishes. Their portions are not very large, but the taste makes up for that. Their prawn crackers are particularly good. Delivery available.

Oishi Sushi. Decent sushi, with sushi train. On Monday and Tuesday evenings they offer an all-you-can-eat for QR 135 (reservations recommended).

Royal Bafilyon. This Cantonese restaurant is a favorite of the Chinese and Singaporean expat communities.

Shanghai Garden. Favoured by local Chinese expats.

Thai Corner. Tiny place with two tables, with fantastic Thai food. In nice weather you can eat in the courtyard.

Thai Smile. Casual and delicious Thai street food, with outdoor seating.

Thai Snack. A Doha institution, offers authentic Thai street food for very reasonable prices.

Yee Hwa Restaurant. This restaurant specialises in Korean barbecue and Japanese cuisine, and is one of the better places in Doha for sushi.

Ciao. Offers thin-crust pizza baked in a traditional oven, along with a good selection of pastas and risottos.

J&G Sandwich Cellar. Doha's only British café, with full English breakfasts and Yorkshire pudding. Free Wi-Fi; delivery and takeout available.

Lo Spaghetto. Classic Italian food, prepared by Italian chefs.

Mykonos. Solid Greek food, outdoor pool-side seating available.

Indian Doha is home to a large Indian population. As such, the city centre is full of small Indian restaurants, with many other excellent Indian restaurants scattered throughout the city.

Aalishan. Recommended for the Friday afternoon buffet.

Al Zarka. Very popular with South Asian workers as well as Qataris. Menu features primarily Indian as well as Arabian dishes.

Anjappar Chettinad. Vegetarian, good value for the thali set menu.

Bukhara. Delicious northern Indian cuisine, with especially good fish tandoori and chicken vindaloo.

Chingari. Expensive and good northern Indian food, with live Indian music on a small stage.

Garden Annapoorna. It serves great south Indian dishes.

The Garden Village Restaurant Doha. Recommended for its good ambience and nice Indian village model interior.

Spice and Sizzles. A luxurious Pakistani/Indian/Asian restaurant.

Al Shami Home Restaurant. A Doha institution, featuring traditional Syrian and Lebanese dishes, and sheesha.

Al Hamra. A family restaurant offering Lebanese dishes. Service is a bit slow, good for large groups.

Al Mourjan. An upscale place with tasty Lebanese dishes and some of the best views in Doha.

Ankara Pastry Restaurant. Good pastries and shwarmas, popular with Turkish expats.

Istanbul Sultan. Very small place with great schwarmas.

Layali. One of the more expensive Lebanese restaurants. It is rumored that the former Emir has eaten here on occasion.

Shebestan Palace Restaurant. Good Persian food.

Turkey Central. The portions are large (try the mixed grill or shish tawooq) and the appetizers are excellent, particularly the chili labneh. Delivery and take-out available.

Shay Al Shoomos. A popular breakfast spot, and one of the few very few places that serves traditional Qatari cuisine.

For local street food, nothing beats the home-made goodness dished out by the Pancake Ladies in Souq Waqif every evening in the square by the car park. The crepe-like mankouche is particularly tasty, filled with your choice of labneh (cheese), za’atar, or the less-traditional Nutella for QR5. Other local specialties feature meat, chicken, and fish, and there are even a couple of vegetarian options.

There are also many good restaurants in Souq Waqif worth trying. Perhaps the best include Tagine (Moroccan) and Le Gourmet, particularly good for sheesha and a cup of tea. These are not as inexpensive as the Pancake Ladies but are good for ambiance and people watching.

Parisa. Excellent Persian cuisine in unique surroundings. Booking advised.

Best Fish. Popular with Qataris. Cheap local fish dishes: the grilled hammour with garlic butter is recommended. Take away and home delivery available.

Fish Market. The best fish in town at upscale prices, much of it local. Reservations recommended, particularly for the Friday brunch.

L'wzaar Seafood Market. A good selection of seafood, with good views. Reservations recommended.

Grocery stores For self-catering options there are a few hypermarkets as well as a number of smaller neighborhood grocery stores distributed throughout the city.

Carrefour. This French chain has three hypermarkets in Doha: in Landmark Mall, Villaggio Mall, and City Center Mall. They also have a smaller grocery store in Lagoona Plaza.

Family Food Centre. Three branches on Al Matar St, Al Mirqab Al Jadeed St, and Al Rayyan.

LuLu. This UAE-based chain operates two full hypermarkets: on D-Ring Rd (near the airport) and in Al Gharrafa (across from Landmark Mall). There is also a smaller express store near Education City, and a branch has been opened in Al Messila.

Mega Mart. Very popular with western expats as it imports a lot of products from America and Europe, but can be quite expensive. Also has a Costa Coffee nearby, as well as many smaller shops stocking cards, electronics and perfumes.

Tipping Tipping at restaurants is not compulsory, although it has become fairly standard to tip about 10% to the waitstaff. Despite being banned, some restaurants still include a 10% service charge in the bill. Should your bill include a service charge, feel free to strike it from the total and leave a tip on the table instead.

Drink

Alcohol Alcohol is strictly regulated in Qatar, as it is a Muslim country, and for visitors is only available in bars attached to large 5-star international hotels. Bars are required to see identification (i.e. a passport) at the door, although this is rarely enforced. Residents with a special liquor license may purchase alcohol at the QDC (Qatar Distribution Company) on the outskirts of town. The importation of alcohol is strictly disallowed – all bags are scanned by x-ray upon arrival at Hamad International Airport and customs will confiscate any bottles of alcohol they find. They will issue a claims receipt, which will allow you to pick up your bottles again when you leave Qatar.

Some of the places favoured by local expats are the Crystal Lounge and Waham Poolside Lounge (W Doha Hotel), Sky View Bar (La Cigale Hotel), the Belgian Café (InterContinental at West Bay Lagoon), and Trader Vic's (Hilton). The Irish Harp (in the basement of the Sheraton near City Center Mall) has frequent live music.

Tea and coffee Karak is the local specialty, a very sweet concoction made from tea and evaporated milk available from stalls everywhere, some of them drive-through (just park your car outside and honk). A particularly popular place is Chapati & Karak at Katara Cultural Village.

Most international coffee chains (including the ubiquitous Starbucks) are well-represented here, especially in shopping malls.

PappaRoti. This branch of the popular Malaysian café chain offers a good selection of coffee and teas, along with special roti buns.

Sleep

Compared to Dubai, which has hundreds of accommodation facilities, Doha does not offer that much variety with less than a hundred hotel properties and some other accommodations. There are quite a few 5-star international chain hotels in Doha and there are scores of new 5-star hotels on the rise, such as the Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons, and Intercontinental. More modest choices come in shorter supply.

Doha B - Qatar Youth Hostels Association.

La Villa Hotel, QR 130 if you book online. Includes breakfast. Victoria Hotel, QR 135 if you book online. Has a pool and gym.

Al Madina Suites. The hotel offers well-furnished suites all equipped with air-conditioner, Internet connection, cable TV, and coffee/tea maker. Some of its facilities are fitness room/gym, airport and city transfers, tours and excursion desk, and laundry service.

Al Muntazah Plaza Hotel. Fully furnished 2- to 3- bedroom apartments and standard hotel rooms, on the prestigious Al-Muntazah Road convenient for the corniche, city centre, airport, supermarkets and the shopping centres.

Hotel Crystal Palace. The hotel offers cozy rooms, all of which have air-conditioner, cable TV, mini-bar, and safe. Some of its amenities are Wi-Fi connectivity, health club, business centre, and laundry service.

Doha Marriott Hotel. In a slightly out of the way location, but since nowhere in Doha is really walkable, that's not a huge strike against it. It has two towers of excellent 4-star rooms and a selection of restaurants few hotels can match: the Mexican is acceptable, the pan-Asian quite good, the buffet nothing special, and the Indian really great. Alcohol is available in the restaurants, but there is no cocktail lounge or bar. There is a disco attached to the hotel that has a door policy to match Studio 54 at its 1970s' peak (again though, showing up in a Maserati will get you whisked inside).

Mercure Doha. A 4-star hotel belonging to the Accor group pretty much in the town centre. It has a sauna, a swimming pool and various restaurants. Shuttle buses go regularly from and to the airport. You can walk around and see things just outside the door (unlike most Doha hotels, which are someone isolated), but it is also a little less tranquil.

Mövenpick Hotel Doha. 4-star hotel on the Corniche with an all day dining restaurant and piano bar.

Ramada Encore Doha. A comfortable 4-star hotel with a few pleasant surprises. The Indian restaurant is one of the best in town (and, because it's in a hotel, it serves alcohol). The pub on the hotel's ground floor is a large club that on weekends comes alive as a disco under the guidance of a Filipino cover band and hundreds of Asian workers letting loose after a hard 6-day work week. The Library Bar, on the hotel's top floor, has a small, slightly worn clubby field populated by large-bellied expats. But the beer is cold and the mural around the walls is something to behold.

Somerset West Bay Doha. The property offers 2- and 3-bedroom apartments. Facilities include a gymnasium, recreation room, indoor swimming pool and children’s playroom.

Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara. On the shores of Doha on the Arabian Gulf.

Four Seasons. The first five-star hotel in town. It has a great but expensive Italian restaurant and a decent cigar/cocktail lounge just off the lobby. The pool and beach area are for hotel guests and spa members only.

Grand Hyatt Doha. Most of the suites & rooms have breathtaking views of the Persian Gulf and feature balconies or terraces.

Imperial Suites Hotels Doha. 5 minutes away from the airport. Rooms are equipped with rich fabric bed, LCD TV with DVD player and fully equipped kitchen. Some of its facilities and services are Omssiyat restaurant, fitness room/ gym, 24-hour room service and airport transfer.

InterContinental Doha. Five minutes up the coast from the town centre and directly across the road from the seemingly never open Alladin's Kingdom amusement park. The pool and beach complex at are large, quiet and relaxing. The restaurants are nothing special, but the rooms are great and the nightlife decent.

La Cigale Hotel. A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, in the heart of the city and only 15 minutes by car from the airport. 225 luxurious rooms and suites; 11 dining and entertainment outlets offering a selection of cuisine including Italian, Japanese, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Oriental and evening chill-out options; two ballrooms; a well-equipped gymnasium with certified instructors; an indoor swimming pool and a deluxe spa with hammam facilities.

Merwebhotel Central Doha. 5-star hotel designed to meet the needs of business travellers through the use of innovative technologies and tailor made services adding a subtle flair of Qatari hospitality and heritage.

Mövenpick Tower & Suites. 26-storey tower at the entrance to West Bay, 15 minutes drive from the airport. 350 rooms and suites. Facilities include conference rooms and restaurants.

The Ritz-Carlton. 10-minute drive north of the heart of Doha, along the Gulf Coast. The pool complex is large and landscaped to look an oasis, complete with fake rocks and waterfall. There's also a swim-up bar in the pool. The cigar bar/cocktail lounge is small, but the balcony has great views of the marina and pool. Friday brunch at the Ritz is exceptionally good. There is a disco on the grounds, but only hotel guests, club members, and people driving Italian supercars are allowed in.

Sheraton Grand Doha. The Sheraton is an architectural and minor cultural landmark in Doha, having been in town longer than any other international hotel. Shaped like a pyramid with an Imperial Star Destroyer stuck on top, it is at one end of the Corniche, making it visible from that long, waterfront road and walkway.

The Torch Doha. In the distinctive 300-m-high Aspire Tower built for the Asian Games, the Torch Hotel offers modern-appointed rooms over 51 floors. There is also a rotating restaurant which offers 360° panoramic views of the city.

W Doha Hotel. Urban sanctuary that provides luxury accommodation and lifestyle.