Georgetown (Guyana).
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Overview

Georgetown is the largest city in and capital of Guyana. Georgetown is primarily the business and governmental seat of the country but its fascinating wooden colonial buildings also provide a different experience for tourists. Most tourists visit Georgetown as a launching point to the rainforests of the interior.

Understand

Founded as a small Dutch settlement in the 18th century, Georgetown has changed hands between the British, Dutch and French many times - not unusual for places in or near the Caribbean. The influence of several colonial powers is visible in place names. The city got its current name after the British King George III in 1812.

Georgetown is home to about 200,000 inhabitants, around one in four of whom are Guyanese, and is by far the commercial and administrative centre of the country, as well as an important entry point and transport hub. Sitting on the shore of the Atlantic, the city is one metre below sea level and protected by a seawall from the ocean. The city with its surroundings has a notable network of canals. Many homes in the suburbs are built on high stilts to prevent water damage when the dyke protections fail.

Climate A few degrees north of the Equator, Georgetown has a tropical rainforest climate with stable temperatures around the year; daytime highs at 30°C and nighttime lows at 23°C. There is no true dry season, but February-March and September-October are the driest periods. May-July is mostly the wettest time of the year, and a less intense rain season is in December-January.

Get in

The cheaper, slightly slower option is to take minibus #42 to Timeri bus park which is behind the parliament building near Stabroek Market. They will say it's not safe to walk around in Georgetown at night, which is true.

The following companies have a few daily flights from Zorg-en-Hoop Airfield in Paramaribo, Suriname:

Gum Air. Gum Air and Trans Guyana Airways provide daily scheduled flights between Paramaribo (Suriname) and Georgetown. 1 hr 15 min.

By minibus From Suriname, there are minibuses from Paramaribo to South Drain in western Suriname, just across the river from Guyana. From there, you will go through customs on the Suriname side. Then take the 11:00 daily ferry across the river to South Drain. The ferry journey takes about 30 minutes, but you'll need more time for going through customs on the Guyanese side. On the Guyanese side, you will be in Molson Creek and can take minibus #63a to the minibus station near Stabroek Market in Georgetown.

From Brazil travel to Bonfim on the border and walk across the border. Find a minibus or taxi to take you to Lethem city center and inquire about minibuses traveling to Georgetown.

Get around

By minibus When people in Guyana refer to buses, they mean minibuses. Minibuses (known as route taxis elsewhere) are the most common way to get around town. Travel in this mode at night could be risky, however if the minibus does not get you to your exact location, the taxis are very cheap to complete the last leg of your trip.

All taxis licence plates begin with 'H.' There are set prices for taxis for different destinations, e.g. It is wise to ask at your hotel to recommend a driver. The "Yellow" taxis have the best reputation. A small tip will ensure that you get prompt service.

See

If you have a day or two to spend in Georgetown, check out the markets listed below, take a walk down , or through one of the markets and have a look at the Umana Yama Church (Amerindian cultural center) or some of the older colonial buildings around town, especially on Main Street. Historical buildings along High Street and Avenue of the Republic include the City Hall, City Engineer's Office, Victoria Law Courts, Magistrates' Courts, Saint Andrew Church (Georgetown's oldest church), State House (residence of the prime minister).

The local seawall may be unimpressive, but it protects a city that lies 1 metre below high-tide level. The sea wall, which helps prevent flooding and drainage is aided by canals protected by sluices, was built by the Dutch and later the British.

Georgetown has an abundance of tree-lined streets and avenues and contains many wooden colonial buildings and markets. Most of the main buildings are found around the western region of the town near Independence Square and Promenade Gardens. Interesting buildings include the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, the National Library, the Bank of Guyana, the National Museum of Guyana, State House and St. George's Anglican Cathedral.

National Museum of Guyana. Its two areas give a brief glance in the history of Guyana and of the entire Guianas area. The museum has its roots in a collection opened in 1868, extended with a library in the 1930s. After a fire in 1945, the collection was rebuilt. In the front of the building there's a war memorial, the Guayana Centograph, finished in 1923.

Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology. A museum with two floors showing the Amerindian heritage of Guyana. You can see artifacts, costumes, photos and archaeological founds.

Castellani house. Castelliani House, named after its architect. This building served as the residence of the prime minister in 1965-85, was rebuilt in 1993 and since it houses the national gallery, showcasing paintings and sculptures of Guyanese artists.

Cheddi Jagan Research Center. Offers exhibits on the past president and first lady of Guyana and the country's history.

Guyana Heritage Museum Demerara. A museum on the history of Guyana and its people.

Botanical Gardens. A large free garden where families and people hangout. The Guyana zoo is located within the grounds of the gardens and south of the zoo there are Victoria Lilies - Guyana's national flower, they are huge lilies. The park is a place to see birds, Victorian-era bridges (sometimes called kissing bridges in reference to newlyweds getting photos taken there), manatees, and palms. Castellani House is also next to the park.

Guyana Zoo. A very small zoo with DIY cages for the animals. A lot of the cages are too small for the animals they house. However, the zoo is a cheap way to spend an hour or two while in Georgetown. You can see parakeets, toucans, birds of prey, agoutis, caymans, monkeys, tapirs, pumas, jaguars and sealife in its aquarium.

National Park. A park retaining some of Guyana's old colonial flair, adjacent to the Everest Cricket Club.

Promenade Gardens. A garden with tropical plants.

St George's Cathedral. One of the world's tallest wooden structures, this cathedral is as attractive inside as out. The church is built of tropical hardwood between 1892 and 1899, and the tower is 45 m high.

Stabroek Market. Dating back to 1881, the interesting design of this iron structure and clock tower certainly make it the most recognisable of buildings.

Parliament Building. Dates back to 1829.

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Prominent Catholic church, built in 1920, with an altar bequeathed by Pope Pius XI.

Georgetown Lighthouse. It was built by the Dutch in 1817 and then rebuilt in 1830. This beacon has a colorful pattern of red and white stripes.

St. Andrew's Kirk. Completed in 1818, has been a Dutch Reformed Church in Georgetown for some time.

Parliament Building. Dates to 1834 and is home to the National Assembly of Guyana.

Georgetown City Hall. Gothic Revival building dating from 1889 said to be "the most picturesque structure" in Georgetown.

Independence Arch. This monument celebrates Guyana's independence from the British Empire in 1966, interestingly it was a gift by the British Queen.

Umana Yana. Memorial to the liberation of the slaves. The cultural centre forms a huge traditional Wai-Wai (native American tribe) hut.

1763 Monument. Monument commemorating 1763 slave revolt.

Demerara Harbour Bridge. Pontoon bridge built in 1978 that is the only connection between Georgetown and West Demerara.

Do

American actor Pauly Shore has a party mansion called The Class Act after his 1992 movie of the same name. The mansion is on the outskirts of town in a former mangrove that was drained in order to build the property. During January and February when Shore is in residence, there are many "invite only" parties to attend with B-list semi-celebrities such as Matt Dillon, Carrot Top and Seth Green. However, there are also some open parties for the locals to attend if you can get a ticket. These tickets are even more sought after than one-day-international cricket tickets.

Victoria. This was the first village bought by slaves. It's a place that you will never forget. The Holy Communion Lutheran Church was the first church in the country.

Demerara Rum Distillery. Tours are offered.

Providence Stadium. The national stadium, capacity 20,000, hosting the national cricket team and Guyana Amazon Warriors in the T20 Caribbean Premier League.

National Cultural Center. Performance art center.

Buy

Products Rum Guyana is famous for its rum (see Drink). El Dorado has a good store in Departures at the airport but bear in mind that you cannot take a connecting flight carrying liquids unless they are in your suitcase. There are several places in town where you can buy the best brands. The best place for buying souvenirs is The Hibiscus Plaza located outside the General Post office. Buy wood carvings from the artists outside the Hotel Tower.

The central shopping area is bounded by Hadfield Street on the South of the city, Water Street to the West, Albert Street to the East and Middle Street to the North. Most of the city's stores, supermarkets, boutiques and restaurants can be found within this zone.

Stabroek Market. A major market in the city centre. Keep an eye on your wallet.

City Mall. The City Mall on Regent Street is the most modern of its kind in Georgetown and many tourist stores are located here.

Fogarty's Department Store. Wonderful old-style supermarket on the first floor, other products on the second.

Ask around too about designs by local and internationally acclaimed fashion designers, Michelle Cole, Pat Coates and Roger Gary.

Gold There are several well-known places where you can get high quality handcrafted gold pieces, some of them being:

Kings Jewellery World. with a branch on Middle Street

Employee's salaries are normally paid in Guyanese dollars and the income tax is deducted at source by employer.

Eat

JR Burgers. Flame-grilled beef burgers, rotisserie chicken, Jamaican patties, ice coffees, milk shakes, smoothies, doughnuts in the morning. Other locations at City Mall (Camp & Regent Streets) and Robb Street.

Stabroek Market cookshops. The best for local foods, day time only.

American fast-food chains present include Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut and Popeyes.

Brasil Churrascaria & Pizzaria. A Churrascaria that offers good food and service, and excellent caipirinhas.

New Thriving. Chinese restaurant. Also has a buffet menu.

Oasis Cafe. And in Cheddi Jagan airport departure lounge. A nice range of cakes and pastries, together with coffee, cappuccino and the rest. Free wireless.

Shanta's Puri Shop. Good local food such as curries for vegetarian and non-vegetarian, as well as roti, dhalpuri and other Indian food.

Starbuds. A good selection of pasta, salads, sandwiches etc.

El Dorado. Italian-themed fine dining restaurant, specializing in seafood, meat and pasta dishes.

Drink

The most popular national drink is Caribbean-style dark rum. The two national favorites are El Dorado and X-tra Mature which both offer 5, 10, 12 and 25 year varieties. El Dorado also offers a 15 year old variety which has won the "Best Rum in the World" award since 1999. Mix the cheaper ones with Coke or coconut water if you please. All are quality enough to drink neat or by themselves with the 25 year-olds comparing with high-quality scotch whisky.

Banks is the national beer. It comes in a lager and a stout (Milk Stout). Also available are the lighter Carib (Trinidad and Tobago) and darker Mackisson's. Guinness is brewed locally under licence and is a bit sweeter than its Irish counterpart, but just as good. Polar (Venezuelan) and Skol (Brazilian) can be found randomly throughout the country. You can also find Heineken and Corona at posher bars in Georgetown.

Non-alcohol: Malta is a popular sweet soda that is worth a try. Drink only bottled water.

There are small rum shops and bars throughout the city, those of note are:

Latino Bar & Nightclub. Despite the name, the club offers more Caribbean-style Music (Dancehall, Soca, Reggae, Dub, etc.) than Latin. A nice little patio outside serves good drinks and has ceiling fans to take cool-down breaks from the hot dance floor inside. Take cabs to and from this location at night as the surrounding areas can be a little dodgy.

Palm Court. Nice outside dancing and sometimes features live Brazilian Music.

Local Rum Shops. Located anywhere that you would not find a bar or club. It is mostly found in rural areas.

Sleep

Since tourism in Guyana is not much developed there are not many online resources. But asking taxi drivers, barkeepers and random locals you meet on the street will yield many contacts to private accommodations that are much more affordable than the ones listed online. Thus, when planning to stay for more than just a few days, it is advisable to only book a hotel for one or two nights upfront and then go hunting when there.

Tropicana Hotel. Cheapest place to stay in Georgetown. It's just above a bar, so there's loud music till late at night. There's also no attempt to limit mosquitoes or other insects. No air-conditioning, fan only.

Rima guesthouse. Popular backpacker hostel. Clean and beautifully decorated rooms, shared bathroom, nice common area. Wi-Fi available.

Armoury Villa Hostel & Guest House. Lodging with wifi, a/c, gym, kitchen, TV/games, cooking premises, balcony.

El Dorado Inn. Attractive eight-roomed inn in the middle of the old colonial area.

Ocean Spray International Hotel. Rooms are air conditioned and include a simple breakfast, wifi and refrigerators in the room.

Cara Lodge. An attractive wooden building with a newer part built in the same style as the earlier part that faces the street and goes back to the 1840s. Guests have included Jimmy Carter and Mick Jagger. Suffers a few of the problems of older buildings but a pleasant place to stay with a good restaurant.

Pegasus. For many years this was Georgetown's main hotel. Now looking a bit shabby in places but still the first choice for most business visitors.

Grand Coastal Suites. A family run hotel built in a colonial style. Convenient for visitors to the headquarters of CARICOM.