Kanazawa.
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Overview

Kanazawa (金沢) is a historic city in Ishikawa prefecture, Japan. For travelers who want to see one of the best-preserved major Edo-period cities in the country, it's hard to beat.

Understand

Kanazawa is one of the long overlooked jewels of Japanese tourism — although not by the Japanese, who visit in droves. Its relatively remote location, on the "wrong" side of the island from the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka tourist trail, has perhaps unfairly contributed to it attracting so few foreign tourists. Kyoto's offerings of temples and shrines are all very well, but Japanese history and culture is not just about them. The samurai, the merchants, the geisha, and the lords have all left their mark on Kanazawa in a compact, easily navigable central area. Kanazawa is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Crafts and Folk Art. With the opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo in 2015, the number of foreign tourists increased significantly. English language ability tends to be much more limited than in the likes of Kyoto and Nara, but visitors can take comfort in the fact that locals will nevertheless go to great lengths to help you out.

Don't leave here without seeing the gold leaf craftsmen at work. Many of them are over 90 years old and still putting in a full day's work!

Tourist Information Lobby. English-speaking staff always present to answer questions. Free maps.

Visit Kanazawa is the city's official multilingual guide site.

Kanazawa can get a lot of rain — it's "the Seattle of Japan". A local proverb says "even if you forget your lunchbox, don't forget your umbrella". Although the weather can be beautiful in spring and autumn, it is never a good idea to bank on it being fine in Kanazawa, and winters in particular are cold. Kanazawa is in the Snow Country, the area along the Japan Sea coast of Honshu where cold Siberian winds dump large amounts of snow in orographic precipitation, and while it does not get as much as more inland areas, half a meter or more is not uncommon. A common and lovely sight during the winter months is the ropes (called yukizuri in Japanese) hanging down from poles and attached to tree branches to help them support the heavy snow. Most of the main roads have lines of sprinklers down the street to wash the snow away, but the smaller roads often do not.

Orientation Kanazawa is not a very large city and the main attractions for visitors tend to be concentrated around five neighborhoods. Kanazawa Station and Omicho market. The area stretching between Kanazawa Station and the Omicho market has many modern hotels and stores, but also a plethora of smaller local traditional eateries and craft shops (which tend to be concentrated around Omicho market). Higashi-Chayagai. Located north of the Asano river, the area encompasses the famous geisha district of the same name as well as nice views over the river. The name "Higashi-Chayagai" means "the Eastern tea houses district". There are several nice drinking and eating places, traditional inns and teahouses as well as shops selling local crafts. Tera machi. Located south of the Sai river, the area (whose name means "temple district") houses many Buddhist temples (including the most famous, the Ninja temple) as well as the other main geisha district, the Nishi-Chayagai. The name "Nishi-Chayagai" means "the Western tea houses district". Castle, Kenroku-en Garden and museums. Admittedly a large area, it stretches from the Castle grounds to the north-west to the museum district to the south-east, and has the Kenroku-en Garden in its middle. Most of the city's museums are within this area, including the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, the various prefectural museums, and the D.T. Suzuki Museum. Kohrinbo and Katamachi. This area is perhaps the liveliest in the evening, as it comprises many shops and many drinking and eating places. The western part of the area houses the Nagamachi Samurai District, with its old houses and lovely local craft shops.

Get in

By plane The nearest airport serving Kanazawa is in the city of Komatsu . JAL offers flights into Komatsu Airport from Tokyo Haneda Airport and Okinawa, while ANA flies from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo. IBEX flies regional jets to Komatsu from Narita Airport, Sendai and Fukuoka. There are also international flights from Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei.

Frequencies vary depending on the flight timetables; buses usually leave soon after the arrival of every domestic flight. Taxis are frequent though not cheap, and there are several rental car places in the area.

, a futuristic marvel that integrates a traditional wooden temple gate with glass and steel, is served by the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The fastest services, called Kagayaki (かがやき), operate during the morning and evening hours, connecting Tokyo in about 2½ hours. The more frequent Hakutaka (はくたか) makes all stops north of Nagano, taking about 3 hours. Seat reservations are mandatory for the Kagayaki.

The Hokuriku Shinkansen continues South from Kanazawa to Komatsu, Fukui and Tsuruga. Connect at Tsuruga for the Thunderbird (サンダーバード) limited express services from Osaka and Kyoto. The Shirasagi (しらさぎ) limited express also runs on this line, but arrives from Maibara, with some trains starting from Nagoya.

All of the above trips are covered by the national Japan Rail Pass. Kanazawa is also covered by the JR Hokuriku Arch Pass which includes unlimited travel between Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka via Toyama and Kanazawa for seven consecutive days using all of the above routes (with the exception of trains between Maibara and Nagoya). Unlimited seat reservations in standard cars can be made, but you'll have to pay extra for Green Car and GranClass seat reservations.

JR mainline trains on the Hokuriku line, now duplicated by the Shinkansen, have been transferred to private companies, and the Japan Rail Pass will not be valid unless you travel from Kanazawa to Tsubata Station to connect to the JR Nanao Line.

By car Kanazawa is served by the Hokuriku Expressway, which runs through the western edge of the city. It has three interchanges: Kanazawa East and Kanazawa West feed into National Route 8, and Kanazawa Morimoto feeds into the Mountainside Loop Road (山側環状線 Yamagawa kanjō-sen).

The national Route 8 is also a good option for those on a budget or who wish to take a leisurely trip, stopping off to see various sights along the way. It is four-lane for much of the way, and so passing those slow old farmers in their white mini-trucks is possible. There are other routes into the city, such as via the base of Hakusan, or over the hills from Toyama prefecture.

Avoid driving the National Route 157 as much as possible. While the Kanazawa side looks okay, it will become much harder to drive when going south, especially in Ono. It is one of the most dangerous roads in Japan. The road will be closed when the weather is bad enough.

All of the buses take between 8 hr 30 min and 9 hr to reach Kanazawa.

Get around

By bus Kanazawa has a decent bus system to help you get where you need to go. There are three types of buses: city buses, a tourist bus, and community buses (Furatto-Bus). Buses are wheelchair accessible.

By bicycle Bicycles can be hired from Kanazawa Station, and due to the winding streets and plethora of traffic lights and one way systems are often the fastest way to travel around town.

Bicycles can also be hired through the Kanazawa City bicycle share program, Machi-Nori. E-Bikes can be picked up at various points around the city, rented for specific time periods or for full days (or months!), and returned to any compatible port in the city.

On foot As the central city is fairly compact, one of the best ways to get around (at least when the weather is cooperative) is simply walking, exploring the narrow side streets. From east (Higashiyama) to west (Teramachi) would take about an hour at a leisurely pace, though to see everything between them properly would take days.

By car Driving in Kanazawa is not for the inexperienced. The old city, in particular, is a labyrinth of narrow twisting streets once you leave the main roads, and you need to be good at judging just how wide your vehicle is at times. Parking in the old city is also at a premium. However, the newer areas on the outskirts are car-friendly, and parking is ample. For those using Kanazawa as a base to explore the Chubu region, renting a car would be a good idea as public transport between some of the more far-flung areas is far and few between.

Talk

English is not as widely spoken as in larger cities, and many restaurants will only have a Japanese menu. Even hotel reception staff might struggle with English. A big smile and a bit of patience will work wonders in these cases. In many cases, the waitperson might be able to speak some basic English if you give them a chance to get over their nerves.

See

Many of the links below are only available in Japanese. However almost all major tourist sites in Japan have English pamphlets, and Kanazawa is no exception.

Kenroku-en Garden. The most famous sight in Kanazawa, the Garden of Six Attributes is considered one of Japan's Top 3 gardens. Once the outer pleasure gardens of the Maeda Lords, it gradually expanded to take over the entire block. While not completed in its final form until the waning years of the Edo Shogunate, it still represents one of the peaks of Japanese strolling garden design. The way in which water is piped from many kilometres upstream to fill its streams and ponds before going on to fill the castle moats is one of the great engineering feats of the Edo period. Only part of it remains, but is a rare example of existing daimyo palace architecture. The upper floor, with its bright blues and reds, is in distinct contrast to the muted earth tones of Kyoto style. During cherry blossom season, entry to the park is free and it's open and lit up until 21:00.

Kanazawa Castle. At the center of Kanazawa is the former site of Kanazawa Castle. It has been vacated by the national university, which took over the site once used by the Ninth Division of the Imperial Army, the castle is public space now for the first time in its more than 400 years of history. The imposing Ishikawa Gate (石川門), so named as it faced the Ishikawa district, was once a side entrance to the castle grounds, but after several fires and man-made destruction, it is one of the few original buildings left on the site, the other being the Sanjikken Nagaya (三十間長屋) storehouse near the top. However the long Gojikken Nagaya (五十間長屋) that once guarded the castle palace has been rebuilt according to traditional methods, and is open to the public.

Nagamachi Samurai District. Towards the coast from Oyama Shrine, this is an area of a few streets where considerable effort has been expended in order to recreate the feel of the samurai housing areas. The fact that almost none of the actual samurai houses remain does little to daunt the enthusiasm of the tourists. While historically dubious, it is a pleasant area to stroll, and one of the best of the remaining samurai districts in Japan. A short walk from there the city has relocated and restored two ashigaru (足軽: the lowest rank of samurai) houses that are open for free, and provide a lovely place to rest and enjoy the peace of a traditional Japanese house. Towards the Asano River to the north, there are a couple more samurai houses, not preserved or set aside as museum pieces, but actually lived in (and not open to the public).

Kazuemachi. A small but very nice area of geisha houses along the riverbank across from Higashiyama.

Higashi-Chayagai. Across the Asano River, Kanazawa's most famous geisha district. Behind this area is a temple district, and the roads between the main road and the mountain are a twisting labyrinth of narrow lanes perfect for exploring on foot.

Nishi-Chayagai. The "west" to Higashi's "east", this is another district of restored geisha houses. This is considerably smaller (and quieter) than Higashi, with effectively just a single street, and aside from the (free) information center it's not possible to formally visit any of the houses. One can however enter the several shops that dot the street and appreciate the inside of these beautiful houses.

Kanazawa Shinise Memorial Hall (Old Merchant House). The Old Merchant House was Kanazawa's leading Chinese medicine shop in Minami-machi during the 18th century. The shop was established in 1759 and provided medicine for the feudal leaders. The merchant's family was given high status by the elders of the town. The shop was instrumental in maintaining the elegance of the tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and haiku during the time period in which it was open. The shop has a bridal exhibit on the second floor with examples of bridal gifts and a large flower arrangement made entirely out of sugar.

The river to the south, the Sai River, has on its far bank the main temple district of Teramachi (寺町). One of the more impressive ones in Japan, both sides of the road are lined with imposing walls and looming black-tiled roofs. Its eastern counterpart is the Higashiyama Temple District. In contrast to Teramachi's straight road, the eastern temples are dotted around the hillside in a maze of narrow streets. The Kodatsuno ridge also has a small temple area, dominated by Tentokuin.

Ninja Temple. The tour guides insist there is no connection between the 'Ninja Temple' and actual ninja assassins. But with 23 rooms and 29 staircases, an impressive array of trapdoors and hidden rooms, and a sepukku (ritual suicide) chamber, it is easy to see why people would make that assumption. Visitors cannot enter the temple except through the tours, so call ahead to book a tour. The tour is conducted in Japanese, but they give travelers a folder with English translations. Local lore has it that there was an underground tunnel from the castle to the temple, to allow the Maeda lords an escape route in case of attack. However, no documentary proof of this has been found, and, like the ninjas, it merely adds to the myths of the place. The staff have a well-deserved reputation (amongst Japanese and foreigners) for being rude and unhelpful.

Oyama Shrine. Built in the early Meiji period to honor the founding father of the Kaga Domain, Maeda Toshiie. It is notable for a unique gate with stained-glass windows that is a fusion of Japanese and Western architecture. The back gate to the shrine is also one of the few remaining parts of the original castle: a gate from the palace compound that escaped destruction when it was moved to the shrine. "Oyama" was the original name for the hill on which Kanazawa Castle was built.

Tentoku-in. The largest temple in Kanazawa during the Edo period, it stood at the eastern end of the city. It was built to house the spirit of Tama-hime (珠姫: the Princess Tama), the wife of Maeda Toshitsune (the third Maeda lord). She was born in 1599 as the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, and the daughter of the second Shogun, Hidetada. It was a political marriage: the Tokugawa were worried about a possible attack from the powerful Maeda, historically supporters of the Toyotomi clan. Toshitsune sent his mother to Edo as a hostage, and in return received the Shogun's daughter in marriage. She was three years old at the time (though the actual marriage was carried out when she was 14), and her arrival in Kanazawa is commemorated each year in the Kaga Hyakumangoku Parade. She died at age 24.

Daijōji Temple. Daijōji Temple is an old and active Zen Buddhist Temple set away from traffic on a hillside. The temple in its current location dates from 1697. Old trees shade dense moss. There is a large bell hanging under the gate along the path which visitors may ring. Strikingly loud at first, the sound fades to accentuate the tranquillity. There are free early-early-morning pray-with-the-Zen-monks sessions for those so inclined, be prepared to join in with sweeping and cleaning afterwards. The whole place is extremely "wabi-sabi", spiritually mellow.

Shinmeiguu Shrine. This shrine is famous for the more than 900-year-old Zelkova tree (keyaki) in its grounds. The shrine used to be on the banks of the Sai River, before land was reclaimed, and the tree was used as an anchor point for boats. Iron bars driven into the trunk so that boat hooks could be attached are still visible half-way up the tree. The rest of the grounds are used for parking and you will be kept at a safe distance from the tree by 3 fences: one bamboo, one steel and of course one made of concrete!

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. Located across from Kenroku-en, this modern marvel offers a fascinating juxtaposition to the traditional splendour of Kanazawa. Even if you don't enter the permanent or temporary exhibitions, the building itself is worth a look and there are usually some free exhibits inside. Some of the permanent collection can be seen for free. These include pieces by Jan Fabvre (an impressive statute on the roof of the building), the famous "swimming pool" by Leandro Erlich in the main courtyard inside the building as well as playful pieces in the garden surrounding the museum. Don't miss the cafe!

Kaga Honda Museum. Near Kenrokuen is this pleasant green park-like area which houses the very interesting Prefectural Museum (housed in three long narrow pre-war army storehouses of brick), the Art Gallery, and a few other smaller museums, as well as the Prefectural Noh Hall and the National Defence Shrine (護国神社 Gokoku Jinja), a smaller regional version of the main Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo. Just outside the shrine, which is built in the pure Japanese traditional style, is a tall pillar commemorating the dead of the "Great East Asia War" (Dai Tou-A Sensou: 大東亜戦争) that was the subject of considerable controversy when erected for its listing of groups that did not wish to be listed on a right-wing commemoration. It takes its name from the powerful Honda family, whose mansion once occupied this area in the Edo period.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts. A craft museum that displays 36 types of traditional arts and crafts cultivated by the people who lived in Ishikawa. The exhibits are grouped by type and well-displayed.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum. 09:00-17:00 (last entry at 16:30). Housed in three long brick buildings, restored armouries from the time when the area was used by the Imperial Japanese Army, it features a chronological display of local history in a modern and well-laid-out setting. There is also an area for hands-on history, where you can try on various outfits, including samurai armour. As with most tourist sites in Kanazawa, an English-language pamphlet is available.

Ishikawa Museum of Modern Literature. 09:30-17:00 (last entry at 16:30). Housed in the Meiji-era brick building of the former Fourth High School (preparatory schools for the Imperial Universities), the fore-runner of Kanazawa University, it houses displays relating to famous local (generally) authors from the Meiji to pre-war period. Probably only of interest to students of Japanese literature rather than casual tourists, as many of the displays are original copies of books or manuscripts, written in Japanese.

Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art. This is a pleasant museum showcasing works by local artists hailing from Isihikawa prefecture. There are six galleries showing parts of the collection, which is rotated through the year. Many of the pieces come from the collection of the Maeda lords. The building provides nice views on the surrounding woods.

D.T. Suzuki Museum. This small museum commemorates the life and works of Suzuki Daisetz Teitaro, a prominent Buddhist philosopher whose books were instrumental in spreading interest in Zen Buddhism in the West. The museum is organized around three areas: a first room exhibiting the writings and calligraphy of D.T. Suzuki, as well as pictures and explanations about his work and life; a second room where his books can be consulted and more can be learned about his writings. The third area is perhaps the most attractive part of the museum, as it is a contemplative space where visitors are invited to meditate and reflect while admiring the beautiful architecture and the surrounding woods. Even those not attracted to Buddhism or oriental philosophies may find the place worth a visit to enjoy the building's architecture.

Do

Asanogawa Riverside Garden Party. A delightful place for a stroll among the blossoming cherry trees. This event always draws a large crowd who come to watch traditional displays on an elevated stage built over the river. There are enchanting, graceful performances of singing and dancing by local geisha and maiko from Higashi Chaya-Machi district. Keep an eye out for the water jugglery "Mizu-gei" performance.

Hyakuman-goku Festival. This is the big daddy of Ishikawa festivals. The festival celebrates the entry of Lord Maeda Toshiie, founder of the Kaga Domain, into Kanazawa Castle in 1583 and the following 3 centuries of prosperity due to the massive levels of rice production in the area. The annual rice yield was one million bushels (JP: hyakuman-goku; 百万石) or roughly 150,000 tonnes. The festival stretches out over three days and includes a parade on Saturday, a citywide folk dancing competition Saturday night, public tea ceremony at Kenroku-en and a children's lantern parade Friday night. The parade route has been changed and now begins in front of Kanazawa Station where the opening ceremony is performed; arrive early with a blanket to claim your space on the sidewalk. The highlight of the parade is the costumed pageant recreating the entry of Maeda Toshiie, featuring costumed warriors and ladies from the late Warring States period and early Edo Period. The role of Toshiie is usually given to a famous Japanese star.

Fireworks displays. Every summer, locals are drawn to the river side to watch impressive fireworks displays (free of charge). Special buses ferry people from the station to the river bank and back. On a nice evening, this is certainly worth the effort. It is also a good opportunity to meet and speak with locals. Dates vary; ask for information at the Kanazawa Tourist Information Lobby in the station.

Learn

Kanazawa University. Kanazawa University is composed of 8 faculties. About 8,000 university students study there. There is also a large post-graduate program. The main campus is Kakuma.

Kanazawa Gakuin University. Kanazawa Gakuin University is composed of 3 faculties.

Hokuriku University. Hokuriku University is composed of two faculties: Pharmacy and Future Studies (law, management, and language) with about 3,000 students.

Kinjo University. Kinjo University has faculty of welfare.

Work

As a large and fairly youthful city, there are plenty of opportunities to teach English. Do research and be prepared. It would be unwise to turn up and expect to find legal work easily, however, the better your Japanese ability the better the chances. NOVA, ECC and Berlitz have closed operations in Kanazawa. The Ishikawa Foundation for International Exchange and the Ishikawa International Lounge, both located in the Rifare building close to the station, provide free legal, visa, and financial advice to foreigners (set times only).

Buy

Kanazawa is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network and any of the over 30 local arts and crafts make lovely souvenirs. Japanese-style confectionery also makes a good souvenir.

The city is famed for gold leaf production (金箔 kinpaku) and an interesting and reasonable priced gift is a small box of gold leaf fragments, which can be used to decorate cakes and food or for adding sparkle to cups of sake. Within the station are a plethora of shops selling tourist items. Another area specialty is lacquerware (漆器 shikki) with products available to suit all budgets. Wajima (in Noto) and Yamanaka are two main areas of production.

Kenroku-en is ringed by shops catering to the tourist trade. Just as one would expect, the products at such shops are not typically authentic local goods, but they do have the Kanazawa keychains, postcards, and other knickknack collectibles.

Kanazawa is known as a trendy city, and fashion reflects this. The Tatemachi shopping street is full of stores, many of which house good deals if you look hard enough.

Hakuza. A well-known purveyor of all things covered or decorated with gold leaf, this shop is worth a visit just to see the stunning platinum and gold leafed warehouse inside.

Belsel Building. For those interested in Japanese "otaku" culture, the Belsel building is the place to go in Kanazawa. This building houses several stores dedicated to selling products such as anime/manga, figures, and doujin works. In addition, the first floor is full of fashion stores specializing in goth, punk, lolita, and others.

Kohrinbo Tokyu Square. Houses several floors dedicated to showcasing and selling all of the newest trends. There is a floor exclusively for men, and a movie theater on the top floor which shows a number of independent and foreign films.

Eat

Kanazawa cuisine is famous throughout Japan, particularly its seafood since it lies in the sweet spot of the hot south and cold north currents.

A famous local dish is jibuni (治部煮), made from boiled and seasoned duck and various vegetables. Crab is another local favourite served up during the winter months, common types include the hairless male crab (zuwaigani) or smaller female crabs with eggs still attached. Served cold with a light vinegar or in nabe style hot pots. Sushi made with fish from the neighboring sea is also popular, the sweet shrimps (amaebi) are especially good in this region. In Spring the tiny gray river fish gori is a well known delicacy. Sometimes served deep fried with salt or in miso soup. Eaten whole it is an acquired taste.

Dai-Nana Gyōza. A restaurant that specialises in gyoza. Counter seating as well as private rooms upstairs that are available for hire. The gyoza, known as "white gyoza", are famous in the region, and very unlike normal gyoza. Part of a small but insanely popular chain of "white gyoza" (named after the founder, a Chinese man named Hak (白), or "white". Go early to get a seat - it's very popular with students and young salarymen.

Gyoza-no-Ōshō. Serving cheap Chinese food in a brightly-lit and often smoky environment. Look for the gaudy yellow, red and white sign near the bus stop. All Osho restaurants have a bilingual (English-Japanese) menu.

8-Ban Ramen Hachi-ban ramen, founded in Ishikawa in 1971 has outlets scattered throughout Kanazawa including one near the Saigawa Bridge in Katamachi. Cheap, but not known for the quality of its ramen. In fact Kanazawa as a whole is not the place to go for good ramen.

Ōmichō market. This is a relatively large covered market housing many shops and stalls selling fish, vegetables, fruits and meat. According to its website, it has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo Period. The market also houses many restaurants (both on the ground floor and on the first floor) and small colourful eateries where one can eat fresh local seafood, including specialties such as crab, Noto Peninsula oysters and other shellfish. There are also several sushi restaurants and one kaiten sushi place (where sushi are presented on a conveyor belt). There are many tourists, but this remains an active market where locals shop for food and other household items (such as clothing, kitchen utensils and flowers). There is a large pharmacy in the basement.

Sakanaya. Counter seating only, this little joint is always packed with locals looking for a quick serve of cheap seafood.

Skylark Family Restaurant, a few minutes walk from the station between a car dealership and Toyoko Inn Hotel. Cheap and cheerful Western style food as well as Japanese dishes. Ask for the drink bar option to get unlimited access to the buffet style hot/cold soft drinks for only a couple of hundred yen. There are many other "family restaurant" style places in Kanazawa, from Big Boy to Joyful, though most are out in the suburbs.

Choi Nomi Dining Taka. An excellent and affordable Izakaya restaurant run and owned by a former sumo wrestler. Enjoy local sakes, along with a range of Japanese dishes, including a specialty dish, "Nodoguro ramen", which features a Blackthroat Seaperch fish, as well as menma (boiled bamboo) pieces, and half an egg. English menus are available, however pricing and the amount of food you get seems to contradict what's on the Japanese menu, with some of the entries; try to fake your way through it, if you want the full experience!

Mid-range Right next to Kanazawa Station is a new shopping complex called Forus. The 6th floor is dedicated to restaurants and has a very good conveyor style sushi restaurant. No English is spoken but they do have a picture menu and all tables have an electronic menu device. Be aware that if you do not finish all of your food, the Forus restaurants will not give you a box to take your leftovers! Other options include Chinese; Indonesian; Italian and Korean restaurants.

Chochinya. Well worth a visit to try the fantastic tebasaki (crispy chicken wings), order at least 3 per person! The young owners speak limited English but have an English menu available. They have over 20 brands of shochu to choose from and a selection of local sake. Always packed out at the weekends.

The Cottage. Run by the very friendly Tony and Momo. Serving up homestyle cooking with plenty of conversation thrown in. A cozy restaurant popular with resident foreigners and tourists.

Hacchouya. The best way to describe this place is a "refined" izakaya. It has sunken seating by the open kitchen or private tatami style rooms and very cosy. Not much English is spoken but you manage to get your message across. Be adventurous, point to the menu and you can't go wrong. Staff are very friendly and efficient.

Hirosaka-Tei. The homemade ginger ale has quite a kick and goes well with the fish dishes. Japanese menu but English is spoken by the owner.

Le Mars. Husband and wife team serving up tasty Belgian inspired food in a relaxed atmosphere. Good range of European beers available. Tucked away down a side street near the Excel Hotel.

MoriMoriZushi. The salmon is divine and they even do a meat lovers' hamburger nigiri! You can sit at the counter or for more elbow room ask for a table. No smoking throughout. There is a newly opened branch in Omicho market.

Osteria Albero. Serving up great Italian food in a quiet corner of town. Menu in Japanese and Italian.

Pilsen. Opened in 1968, this German beer hall style restaurant is well known in Kanazawa. There is a long counter downstairs and more intimate table seating upstairs. Limited English is spoken but they are used to foreign customers and have an English food menu.

Spice Box. The only authentic Indian and Sri Lankan restaurant downtown. Vegetarian options are available along with an English menu. Ask the ever smiling manager if you have special requests. No credit cards accepted.

Sushi Ippei. Tucked down a side street this family run restaurant offers the chance to try authentic sushi without breaking the bank. English menu and limited English spoken by the beaming kimono-clad okamisan.

Yama-boshi. Stop for soba after a visit to Yuwaku onsen in this traditional Japanese-style house.

Coil. Fancy, modernistic temaki (sushi hand roll) restaurant, with a DIY attitude. Pick your desired fillings, follow your own tea making ceremony, and roll your own sushi to your liking! Has vegan/vegetarian friendly options, as well as English menus.

Takeshi. Modern Japanese cuisine in stylish surroundings. Reservations essential.

Tsubajin. Open for lunch and dinner, reservations required. The current building dates from the early Taisho period (1912-1925), and is designed in the finest Kanazawa style.

Ume No Hana. For a true Japanese dining experience that is hard to beat this place will make even ex-pat lifers in Japan misty eyed. Beautiful landscaped gardens; immaculate tatami rooms with each room having themed pottery; a mind bending array of tofu dishes and phenomenal service. Allow plenty of time to savour the experience as dish after dish will be brought to you. A nice discrete touch is that instead of a check you will be given a keyring to handover when you leave. Ensuring only the bill payer sees the total! Reservations essential even at lunch time. Away from the main sights so a taxi is the easiest way to get there. You will never look at tofu in the same way again!

Kinjohro. A good ryotei which uses seasonal local ingredients, with dining rooms in traditional Japanese architecture. Reservations recommended. Expensive, but cheaper than similar establishments in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Drink

While in Kanazawa, don't miss the opportunity to sample tea ceremony tea (抹茶 matcha), served with either an incredibly dry and tasteless sweet (干菓子 higashi) or a rather more appetizing fresh one (生菓子 namagashi).

The Katamachi area in central Kanazawa is wall to wall with bars of all shapes and sizes. Some buildings such as the Elle Building are almost exclusively full of hostess bars (often referred to as lounge bars) which may not always be foreigner friendly. As the competition is stiff bars without a charge will often advertise it quite clearly. The St. Louis Jigger Bar run by Suntory is one such cocktail bar on the corner of the Scramble.

Machrihanish. The best selection of single malts in Kanazawa, bar none. The English-speaking owner spent several years working at the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews and has visited every distillery in Scotland! If whisky is your thing this is the place to visit. The fish and chips is recommended.

Nyumba. A stylish, modern family run cafe/bar near Kanazawa Station.

Pole Pole. A reggae music bar with a very friendly staff and laid back staff which all can speak English. Great for visitors to meet locals and other travelers. Good Reggae music and plenty of peanuts on the counter, the floor has a heavy layer of them. You can also eat the food from the Indonesian restaurant next door! Perfect for a laid back and fun evening, especially if you don't speak Japanese.

Sleep

The largest concentration of hotels is around the station area including all the usual suspects: ANA, APA, Nikko etc. Toyoko Hotel and Route Inn hotel are two of the newest. For cheaper options, the Kanawaza Ryokan and Hotel Society runs a Yadotime booking engine, also available in English.

Guest House Pongyi. Opened in 2009 in a traditional Japanese house, the small guesthouse is adjacent to one of the picturesque canals. The owner is friendly and extremely helpful, and speaks English very well. They also speak some Spanish and Portuguese. Very clean and comfortable rooms with new bedding. Kitchen, fridge and free tea and coffee available for guests. Free internet and computer (Wi-Fi, Desktop PC).

Kikunoya Ryokan. Kikunoya Ryokan is a 1960s-style Japanese inn. In a good area for nightlife. All rooms tatami mat. TV in room, a/c, refrigerator, towels, Yukata, tea set, Wi-Fi in room. Facilities: Internet-connected PC (a printer, headset, Wi-Fi) all free. Cable TV in dining room, Hair Dryer.

Ryokan Shibaya. The best thing about this traditional Japanese inn is the bath in the basement. A piping hot, onsen sized affair with bubbling jets that guests can reserve for private use. Only a short walk from the station, it has a peaceful atmosphere, free green tea vending machines in the hallways and big bright rooms (western style or tatami available). Unfortunately, you may have to ask your hosts to turn on the hot water system if you fancy a morning shower. The owners are extremely friendly and helpful but their English is limited.

Murataya Ryokan. Small traditional inn runs has 11 Japanese style tatami rooms with common toilet and bath facilities. The staff speak good English and are incredibly helpful. Wi-Fi is available, as well as a PC downstairs. Breakfast can be had with a prior reservation.

Ryokan Yamamuro. Ryokan Yamamuro has been in business since 1897 in the center of Kanazawa. This inn is a modern ferro-concrete structure. Many major tourist and cultural attractions such as Kenrokuen Garden, Kanazawa Castle Park, 21st Century Museum, Omi-cho Market, Higashi Chaya District, Oyama Jinja Shrine are within walking distance. All rooms are Japanese style with shared toilet. Some rooms are up steep stairs. Wi3 Wi-Fi access point on premises, laptop in lobby available for guest use.

Guesthouse Ochakare. Nice atmosphere, friendly and helpful staff.

Shaq Bighouse. A friendly hostel with international guests. Well equipped kitchen and a bar at the ground floor. Rooms with dorm beds, as well as Japanese style double rooms with shared bathroom. Very thin walls!

Hotel Pacific. Modern, stylish hotel with in-suite bathrooms and on-site laundry machine. Literally next door to the Omicho market area, as well as a short walk to the Kanazawa Castle grounds. Nearby trendy restaurants, Kanazawa M'Za department store, and a 15-20 minute walk from Kanazawa Station. Affordably priced rooms, and very friendly staff (many of whom speak excellent English).

Daiwa Roynet Hotel. Brand new, with elegantly designed rooms. Professional staff. Internet in the rooms, and at internet terminals in the lobby.

Dormy Inn Kanazawa. Opened in 2006. Free internet in the lobby.

Garden Hotel Kanazawa. Friendly and helpful staffs. A very convenient hotel for sightseeing and business in Kanazawa. Free PCs in the lobby, as well as wireless LAN available in rooms.

Toyoko-Inn Hotel Kanazawa Kenrokuen Korinbo. Business style hotel - free breakfast included. Professional staff. Free internet connection for every room and free Wi-Fi service (at foyer) available. Very convenient and affordable! Clean and neat as a pin.

Kumu. Part of a new trendy chain, this is a very comfortable modern hotel that provides well-designed rooms, from "bunks" all the way to apartments. All of the rooms are designed to be shared by more than two people. Location is also quite convenient: the castle grounds, the Omicho market and the Oyama shrine are all within walking distance. There are bus stops almost in front of the hotel. The hotel also rents bicycles.

Terume Kanazawa. While far from Kanazawa station, the hotel, with a large parking space, is next to a highway interchange. It is a better choice if you arrive in Kanazawa by driving. Essentially, the hotel offers everything a tourist may need, including onsens (which is one of the largest in Kanazawa), massages, restaurants, gaming centres, and even hair salons. It provides both Japanese and Western rooms.

Hotel Nikko Kanazawa. One of Kanazawa's most distinctive landmarks and at 130 m the tallest hotel on the Japan Sea side of the country. The Nikko Floor consists of the 26th and 27th floors and rooms on these levels go for several thousand yen more.