Khankendi.
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Overview

Khankendi (Azerbaijani: ), formerly Stepanakert (Armenian: ), is a nice small city in Karabakh. The city is controlled by Azerbaijan since 2023; much of the information in this article is likely out of date.

Understand

There is some dispute whether the first settlement in this area was started by Armenians in 5th century and thus was called Vararakn ("rapid spring" in Armenian) or by a Karabakh khan in 18th century, and was thus called Khankendi (Turkic for "the khan's village").

The city was renamed in 1923 to Stepanakert to honour Stepan Shahumyan, ethnic Armenian leader. It also became the capital of the newly created Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomous Oblast. Shortly after that municipal authorities adopted a new city layout designed by the prominent Armenian architect Alexander Tamanian, which is still in use.

During the war, the city suffered immense damage from Azeri bombardment which continued from 1992 to 1994.

Talk

Armenian is the universal language, but Russian is spoken widely, and it may always be used for everyday contacts with locals. Older locals are likely to speak Azeri and therefore understand some Turkish, but they may be hesitant to use it.

English is becoming more and more popular since most children now learn it at school. Be prepared that most children but also many younger adults want to improve their English and therefore try to engage you in English-language conversation while you walk around. This can be lot of fun and you are likely to get valuable information about accommodation or bus connections that way. In the ministries, there is always at least one person who can speak English fluently. If not, they call somebody.

Get in

Tourists must obtain an Azerbaijani visa, see Azerbaijan#Get in for more details.

All major Nagorno-Karabakh cities including Askeran (23 km), Berdzor (58 km), Hadrut (71 km), Karvachar (120 km), Martakert (69 km), and Martuni (41 km) are served.

From Armenia The overall best budget option to get to Stepanakert are marshrutkas.

From specific destinations: Yerevan – They go every morning from the Kilikia Bus Station. Normally, there are departures at 06:00, 07:00, and 08:00, sometimes at 09:00, but these are approximate departure time, and you are better off preferring the earlier hours. Also, arrive sufficiently before departure (at least 20 min) to find a free chair. It might be that your luggage will be nested on the roof of the bus. The journey is slow and can take up to eight hours. There is an alternate route once a day at 08:00 (confirm at the bus station) going back to Yerevan, running via the northern road passing by lake Sevan also for 4,500 dram (Jun 2019). Ensure that if you take this route that the driver stops at the police checkpoint so you can get your visa, otherwise you will need to register at the police station.

Sisian – One daily marshrutka departs at 10:30 on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, stopping at Goris en route. 4,000 dram. Goris – The latter marshrutka departs Goris at around 11:10 from the intersection of the highway and Mesrop Mashtots St. Also, there is supposed to be a direct one at 10:30 from Goris, but this might just be the Sisian one. The return to Goris is at 14:30.

If you miss the one from Sisian or Goris, you can wait at the highway for a marshrutka to pass through from Yerevan (see above); they'll pick you up if there is space. Don't pay more than you would from Sisian or Goris.

By car Driving is also possible, and cars rented in Armenia can be driven to Karabakh and back without issues. The M-12 highway connects with Armenia via Goris and is the most common way to reach Stepanakert. The more adventurous can drive through the Karvajar pass via Vardenis which was re-paved in 2016. The pass is only open in summer, that means as early as April; ask at the embassy in Yerevan. To reach the pass, follow road M-11 on the Armenian side. Both roads offers amazing views of wild life, deep forests, dramatic cliffs and several ancient monuments on the way. Few people speak anything other than Armenian and some Russian so prepare yourself with a dictionary.

By thumb Hitchhiking is safe and common enough in the countryside. Offering a small sum for your ride is polite, though in most cases it won't be accepted.

By plane The Stepanakert airport was supposed to begin regular flights to Yerevan, but the dispute with Azerbaijan seems to be preventing the flights. The only carrier which has announced it will fly is the state-owned Artsakh Air with their newly purchased Bombardier CRJ200 jets.

Stepanakert Airport. The airport remains closed due to political reasons.

By train Since 1994 all train connections have been suspended.

Get around

There are lots of taxis ranging from a very old cars to a brand new Mercedes. Taxi prices are a bit higher than in Yerevan and increase if you leave the city for the countryside. Drivers tend to be honest, but using a meter is always a good idea.

See

Stepanakert Shuka (farmers market). Great selection of fresh and preserved fruits and vegetables, plus other supplies. You can try fresh jingalov hats here, a dish with wild mountain herbs for which Karabakh is famous.

We Are Our Mountains Monument. This monument of an elderly Karabakh man and woman has become the symbol of Artsakh.

St. Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) Church. The new church built in 2007.

You should also visit some government buildings and universities.

Artsakh State Museum of Local History. Interesting small museum that covers history period from ancient times to the Karabakh war.

Museum to the Memory of Perished Azatamartiks. Dedicated to those who died during Karabakh conflict. Translating the word "azatamartik" from Armenian means "liberator". Worth noting that in most cities of Nagorno-Karabakh Republic downtown streets are called "azatamartikneri", i.e. street of Liberators. Museum exhibits maps, bullet punched documents, letters to relatives and friends, thousands of pictures of dead soldiers, weapons and uniforms used during the war.

Art Gallery. It doesn't have a permanent exhibition as yet instead it holds occasional temporary events dedicated to various artists.

Askeran Fortress. Fortress was built by Panahi Khan in the 18th century to guard the approaches to Shushi, it was fortified with double walls. Its protective walls (2 m thick and 9 m high), entrance gate and tower are quite well preserved.

Tigranakert. It's a ruined Armenian city dating back to the Hellenistic period. It is one of the four former cities with the same name, named in honour of the Armenian king Tigranes the Great (95–55 BC). Town consisted of 3 parts: part with palaces was at the top; then central quarter, and Acropolis at the bottom. All together forming a little triangle.

Do

There are many museums that show the history of the region. There are also a lot of parks, many of them are brand new with nice statues and memorials. People are very friendly and will be happy if your children play with their children.

Trailhead to Shushi. Janapar trail with trail markings leading to Shushi.

Trailhead to Patara. Marked Janapar Trail leading to Patara village.

Learn

There are five schools of higher education in Stepanakert: Garabagh University and four private universities. Artsakh State was established in 1969 as a branch of the Baku Pedagogical Institute. In 1973, it was renamed Stepanakert Pedagogical Institute and following the end of the war, in 1995, it was renamed to Artsakh State University, and received its current name on November 2023. The university offers courses spread across seven departments and has an attendance level of 4,500.

Buy

There are many souvenir shops. A very nice one can be found in the lobby of hotel "Armenia".

Stepanakert boasts of a number of art galleries and rug shops.

Eat

There are so many cafes throughout the city.

Tashir Pizza. Western style place with pizza, salad and soup. Non-smoking section and wifi.

Restaurant "Rosya". Upscale Russian restaurant.

Drink

Stepanakert Shuka. Sample the many very strong vodkas (oghi) made from the local fruit. Mulberry vodka is the most famous, but apricot, pear, cornelian cherry and others are also delicious with a serious kick.

Artsakh Alco. Shop with high quality local vodkas and drinks made from fruit. Nice packaging.

Roots. Hip non-smoking wine bar in Stepanakert, with a small food menu as well, which can be hit or miss. Non-smoking, popular, downstairs serves as a venue for interesting events and talks. Very inexpensive.

Sleep

Try to speak with locals about that or ask marshrutka driver which drove you to Stepanakert.

Edward's Guesthouse. 2 dorms at 4 beds.

R&KHostel. Open since 1999. It is clean, has a kitchen and a rose garden. For breakfast, the guesthouse offers simple and light food. Wi-fi is provided. FB.

Tamara & Ivan Guesthouse. A Lonely Planet recommendation.

Hotel "Armenia". Offers international standards with 55 guest rooms. On-site restaurant, pool with sauna and conference hall.

Hotel "Nairi". Outside the city center, this hotel offers a relaxing atmosphere.

Hotel "Heghnar". Quite good option with decent breakfasts.

Park Hotel "Artsakh". In downtown, offers all the conveniences of a high-end hotel. Has a restaurant, lobby bar, summer café, souvenir shop, business centre, library and conference hall.

Hotel "Ocean". Very basic but clean and cheap, no breakfast.