Marrakech.
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Overview

Marrakech (Arabic: مراكش, Berber: ⴰⵎⵓⵔⴰⴽⵓⵛ), also spelt Marrakesh, is one of the imperial cities of Morocco. Marrakech is the main tourist destination in Morocco. The city is divided into two parts: the Medina, the historical city, and the new European modern district called Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle. The Medina is full of intertwining narrow passageways and local shops full of character; it also contains the large square Djemaa El-Fna, where many hotels are located and tourists, locals and vendors congregate. In contrast, Gueliz plays host to modern restaurants, fast food chains and big brand stores.

Understand

The name Marrakech originates from the Amazigh (Berber) words mur (n) wakush, which means "Land of God". It is the fourth largest city in Morocco after Casablanca, Tanger and Fez and lies near the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains and a few hours away from the foot of the Sahara Desert. Its location and contrasting landscape have made it an enviable destination in Morocco.

As the country's main tourist destination, Marrakech is where many Moroccans try to become rich fast by ripping off tourists. This mentality is so widespread that even Moroccans are now ripped off whenever possible so that they call the city "Marrakech, Arnakech" – which rhymes in French and translates to "Marrakech, Scam" (see Touts and scams below).

For further information, you may also visit the Marrakech Tourist Information.

Get in

Connections via Casablanca (45-min flight) are also possible.

Easyjet — flights from Manchester, Stansted and Gatwick Airport (and also from Madrid, from Lyon, Amsterdam and from Basel) Ryanair — direct flights from Oporto (Portugal), London Luton, and London Stansted, and also from Hahn (Germany), Berlin (Germany), Alicante, Madrid and Reus (Spain), Girona (Spain), Eindhoven (the Netherlands), Bergamo (Italy) (Spain), and Dublin (Ireland) British Airways — from London Gatwick TUIfly — flights from Cologne and several other European destinations. Iberia — two non stop flights from Madrid. TAP Portugal — offers direct flights from Lisbon Domestic flights are operated by Royal Air Maroc, with flights from Agadir, Casablanca (daily), Fez (daily), Ouarzazate, Al Hoceima, and Tangier.

Ground transport The airport is about 9 km south-west of the city center (Medina), and 6.6 km from the Djemaa El-Fna square.

The L19 airport shuttle bus is 30 dirham one way, 50 dirham return (as of 2025). It is a great way to go from the airport to the Medina area. The is right out of the terminal (exit the arrivals hall at Terminal 2, to your left you will see the parking area, walk into it and continue across all the taxis, at the end, close to the exit, there's an empty area with a black BUS sign without signs or maps, nor a place to sit or shadow.) The bus leaves the airport every 30 minutes between 06:00 and 23:30. This bus line passes Jeema El Fna, the main bus station and it only has a couple of stops along the way, most notably the Menara Mall. The whole trip takes 15–20 minutes. You can see the whole route and departure times in Google Maps. Beware, some taxi drivers will approach and try to convince you to go with them, sometimes even resorting to lies ("The bus is not running today" or "It comes only once an hour") – don't listen to them.

You can also catch city bus #11 or city bus #12 which run from different suburbs, meet at the airport and continue to the long distance bus station at Bab Doukkala, stopping also at Jeema El Fna. They stop on Avenue Gnassa - the main road near the airport, 500 m from the terminal. The driver can give change.

By petit taxi, the city center is a 10–15 min ride away. Prices directly from the airport are fixed: you pay in advance (card or cash) after entering your destination at a machine and receive a ticket with the assigned taxi number. Apps like InDrive can hail unofficial taxis for slightly less, payable with cash.

The advantage is that you avoid the hassle, and they will lead you all the way to you lodging, even if the car cannot drive there. However, you might have to wait a while for all your fellow passengers to get out of the airport.

Several international rental car companies are based at the airport as well.

If you do not have too much luggage then it is possible to walk from the airport to the Medina even though it would take you from an hour and half to two hours. There is a footpath alongside the road all the way and the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque provides an excellent landmark to head towards. If you have enough time you can break the trip with a visit to the Menara gardens, which are between the airport and the city.

Trains from Casablanca (2nd class 84 dirham, 1st class 150 dirham, 3 hr), Rabat and Tangier connect with most domestic rail destinations in the country, with Marrakech as the southernmost stop. Trains run regularly between Marrakech and Casablanca (including the International Airport). They arrive around every two hours and regularly from other destinations like Rabat. Every day there are 8 direct 7 hr trains to Fez via Casablanca Voyageurs station and another two direct connections to Tangier.

From Tangier it's about a 10-hr journey. You can travel either by day train or night train. During the daytime, you will need to change trains for a connection halfway through the journey creating a welcome break for about 30 min. The night trains which leaves for Marrakech from Tangier travels straight through to Marrakech without the need for a connection. The night trains do have sleeper cars on board, though you will need to pay extra for these if you want a bed (around 350 dirham). If you're planning to go cheap and take the night train on the regular seats in second class (and planning to sleep), you'll be interrupted by movement of passengers and a few times by the ticket conductors throughout the night. It's a great way to travel but don't plan on sleeping on the train, especially if you are travelling alone.

There is no train line further south than Marrakech in Morocco; if you want to head south, to the desert, Atlas Mountains, Agadir or Essaouira on the coast, you'll have to get a bus, rental car or grand taxi.

Moroccan trains do not have restaurant cars. A snack trolley makes the rounds with sandwiches, soft drinks and coffee, but bringing some food for the journey isn't a bad idea. Stops in Casablanca and Rabat usually are long enough to grab a bite in the station en route.

Some taxi drivers will offer their services in the train station or just in front of it. They usually don't use their meter and ask for at least 50 dirham to Djemaa El-Fna. Ignore them and hail one on the main road. The metered fair to Djemaa El-Fna is about 12 dirham, if you want to avoid any discussions just offer 20 dirham upfront and take the first taxi that accepts this offer.

There are many long distance bus companies operating within Morocco which serve Marrakech and other cities.

The bus companies mostly used by tourists are CTM, Pullman du sud and Supratours. Other companies do exist, though these three companies are usually the safest options, but mostly not the cheapest ones.

The long distance bus station, CTM and private bus companies travel to destinations such as Agadir (regular, 3 hr, 80 / 100 dirham local/CTM), Safi, Casablanca (regular, 4 hr, 80-95 dirham), El Jadida, Essaouira (regular, 3 hr, 55 / 80 dirham local/CTM), Fez, Meknes, Ouarzazate (regular, 3-3.5 hr, 80 dirham), Rabat, and Taroudant. Taxi touts will often gather in the bus station to convince you that a bus to your destination is 'full' and to steer you into a grand taxi, and will attempt to sell you goods as your taxi is prepared. This can be difficult if there is nobody manning the ticket desks, and the best option is to walk out of the station to the coaches - a ticket can usually be purchased from a conductor on board.

For trips to Meknes (6 hr, ca 120 dirham), while seemingly shorter on the map, the mountain route via Beni Mellal takes at least 2 hr more than on the highway via Rabat and Casablanca​, going there by train (6½ hr, 174 dirham) is the most comfortable option, although buses might be slightly quicker.

Get around

Once in the medina, everything can be seen on foot, though you'll be doing a lot of walking. Many tourist destinations are signposted by brown, red or green signs affixed to posts or to buildings. Bear in mind that many of these signs don't take the direct route, and some seem to deliberately send tourists via various markets or other places money may be spent.

For exploring more of the city, buses and petits taxis are plentiful.

No 1 - Towards Gueliz No 8 - Stops at the central train station, and bus station (Gare Routiere Voyageurs Marrakech) No 10 - Stops at the long distance bus station No 11 - Will drop you off at the gardens of Menara No 18 - Outside of Airport to Djemaa el-Fna. No 19 - Airport express to Djemaa el-Fna (return for 30 dirham)

Bus No 19 leaves Djemaa el-Fna every half an hour, from 05:15 to 21:15. The trip to the airport takes about 25 minutes.

There is an open-topped City Sightseeing bus that will take you around the outskirts of the city, with commentary provided via headphones (supplied with your ticket) in any of 8 different languages. The best place to catch it is from the coach stops by Square de Foucauld. You can get a 48-hour ticket for very little extra and as there are two distinct tours, this can be a good deal. Check the timetable carefully, as the buses can stop running earlier than you might think.

Ride hailing apps. Uber started offering services in Marrakech Feb 2026. Indrive - another local ride hailing app but it is not available for download by visitors outside

By caleche An alternative and romantic way to travel is by caleche, a small horse-drawn carriage. They can be hired at Square de Foucauld (the small park to the south of Djemaa El-Fna).

By taxi You should always ask to use the meter (compteur in French); otherwise, you are just contributing to a culture of ripping off people. However, in the vast majority of cases, the drivers will refuse to take you if you insist on using the meter. Even locals often have troubles with drivers in Marrakesh, that's how it is.

Your only option to completely avoid this is using the buses which serve most destinations of interest (see above).

For petit taxi, the maximum number of passengers is three (plus the driver), i.e.

Basically they have to use the meter even if it is midnight. The minimum charge is 7 dirham before 20:00 and after will be 10 dirham. If not, kindly refuse and simply take the next taxi.

For grand taxis (regular Mercedes taxis) there are no meters. There also appears to be no limit to the number of people they'll attempt to squeeze in! Outside of the airport if you are a group of more than three, the maximum for a petit taxi, then do negotiate you fee before you enter the grand taxi.

See

There is much to see and do in Marrakech. An entire day can be dedicated to wandering around all the different souks, seeking out the best bargains. The city also offers several historical and architectural sites as well as some interesting museums.

Medina. The Medina is the old city quarter located within the sandstone city walls that give Marrakech the nickname the Red City. As an ancient hub, it contains a maze of narrow streets and outdoor marketplaces.

Djemaa El-Fna. The highlight of any Marrakech night. Musicians, dancers, and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts. Amateur boxing matches are sometimes held. Enjoy the various shows, but be prepared to give some dirham to watch or take photos. By day it is largely filled with snake charmers and people with monkeys, as well as some of the more common stalls.

The Souks. Markets of Marrakech, just adjacent to Place Djemaa El-Fna, are where you can buy almost anything, from spices to shoes, jellabas to kaftans, and tea pots to tagines. Undoubtedly, being a foreigner means you will end up paying higher prices than a native would, but be sure to bargain nonetheless. All that said, the sellers here are much less aggressive than, say, Egypt, so have fun!

Koutoubia Mosque. Named after the booksellers market that used to be located here. It is said that the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque is to Marrakech as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. The minaret is visible from Gueliz which is connected to the Medina by Avenue Mohammed V. At night, the mosque is beautifully lit. It was completed under the reign of the Berber Almohad Caliph Yaqub al-Mansur (1184 to 1199), and has inspired other buildings such as the Giralda of Seville and the Hassan Tower of Rabat. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside.

Tanneries. Visiting the tanneries can be an interesting experience. Even if some people tell you the area is only for locals, it is possible to visit the Tanneries without paying a youngster. After finding a tannery, ask one of the workers if you can visit it and take pictures

Saadian Tombs. Saadian Tombs. The tombs were built in the 16th century as the dynastic necropolis of the Saadian dynasty. The complex includes the Chamber of the Twelve Columns, the Chamber of the Mihrab, the Chamber of the Three Niches and the garden tombs. The site was rediscovered in 1917 and subsequently restored and opened to visitors. The site is relatively compact and most visitors can see the main areas in 20–30 minutes. The entrance passage is narrow, so arriving early can help avoid queues.

Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum. If you are interested in food and eating culture, you will enjoy this museum. Audiovisual information about the rich culinary culture of Marocco, its ingredients, techniques and traditions. You can also touch and smell many things. They also sport a very well equipped cooking school.

Majorelle Gardens. It provides an excellent respite from the hustle and bustle of the city streets, if not crowded by tourists as it sometimes is. The park was designed by the artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s. Since 1980 the garden has been owned by Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé. It boasts a collection of plants from around the globe, including what seems like every cactus species on the planet. Get here early to avoid the crowds. Inside the gardens is also the Berber Museum, which shows a slightly bigger and more modern presentation than the Dar Si Saïd. Advance bookings must be made online, it is not possible to buy a ticket at the site.

Yves Saint Laurent Museum. Advance bookings must be made online, it is not possible to buy a ticket at the site.

Dar Si Saïd Museum. Museum set in an old palace with beautiful gardens. While somewhat run-down, it is worth seeing and houses many different artifacts from Morocco through the ages, such as wood carvings, musical instruments, and weapons. It is dedicated to the Moroccan craft industry of wood, gathering a very beautiful collection of popular art: carpets, clothing, pottery and ceramics. All these objects are regional, coming from Marrakech and all the south, especially from Tensift, High Atlas, Soussthe, Anti Atlas, Bani, and Tafilal.

Ben Youssef Madrasa. One of the largest madrassas in North Africa. It is a school attached to the Ben Youssef Mosque and is home to beautiful art and architecture. Build ca 1570.

El Bahia Palace. An ornate palace complex built in the late 19th century, with courtyards, gardens, richly decorated rooms and traditional Moroccan architectural details. The palace was developed in several stages and expanded by Ba Ahmed, Grand Vizier to Sultan Moulay Abdelaziz. The complex covers about 8 hectares. The main entrance is on Rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid. The palace is relatively close to other attractions in the southern Medina and can be reached on foot from Jemaa el-Fnaa. Arriving shortly after opening can be useful for visitors who want to avoid the busiest periods.

El Badi Palace. The palace complex is extensive, with ruins, courtyards, underground passages and exhibitions. The terrace offers views over the surrounding Medina and the Atlas Mountains on clear days. Allow around 45–90 minutes to explore the main areas. Visitors should check current information before travelling. (updated Aug 2026)

The Menara gardens. A mixture of orchards and olive groves surrounding the water reservoir with the central pavilion which is a popular sight on tourist postcards. Not a decorative garden, and now quite run down. The pavilion was built during the 16th-century Saadi dynasty, and renovated in 1869. It has a small cafe, but it is not open all hours. There are no toilets open when the cafe is closed.

Jewish Cemetery. The largest Jewish cemetery in Morocco, characterized by white-washed tombs and sandy graves. The men selling tickets are full of interesting information about the cemetery but you have to ask.

Slat Al Azama Synagogue. Synagogue which is not only a place of worship with a beautiful open courtyard, but also includes interesting displays about Judaism's varied history in Morocco, including photos of Jews in the Berber Mountains.

Marrakech Museum. It's housed in the Dar Menebhi Palace, constructed at the end of the 19th century.

Musée de la Palmeraie. In old agricultural buildings in the Palmeraie, made out of rammed earth. The architecture itself is interesting if you haven't seen it. It offers a small collection of contemporary art, with a room dedicated to Moroccan artists (also famous ones), the international ones are rather not top-notch. The gardens are nicely made and are good place to relax in quiet.

Musee Farid Belkahia. A museum dedicated to the renowned contemporary artist Farid Belkahia, showcasing different periods of his work

Maison de la Photographie. A little photography museum, it has one of the highest roof terraces in the Medina. Ticket is also valid for Museum of Mouassin Music.

Ali Ben Youssef Mosque. The first mosque in Marrakesh was erected at this place by the Almoravid emir Yusuf ibn Tashfin in the 1070s. However, it was almost completely rebuilt in early 19th century by the Alaouite sultan Suleiman, with hardly any trace left of its original Almoravid or Almohad design. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter it.

Agdal Gardens. It consists of groves of orange, lemon, fig, apricot and pomegranate trees in rectangular plots, linked by olive-lined walkways. Together with the medina of Marrakech and the Menara Gardens, the Agdal Gardens were listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1985.

Almoravid Koubba. A very small but intricate domed pavilion, known for being the only surviving example of Almoravid religious architecture (early 12th century) in Marrakech. Located across the street from the Ben Youssef Mosque, it is believed to have been an annex of the former Almoravid mosque. It was excavated in the 20th century after being half-buried for centuries. The pavilion's exterior can be easily seen from the street, so paying for entry just lets you see its interior.

Jbilets Geological Site. Explore the Berber village on a desert tour.

Anima garden. One of the prettiest gardens in the world. Created by André Heller, it is true oasis when you’re weary of the medina hubbub. Book the official shuttle bus to get there and back for free.

Do

Chez Ali Fantasia. Horse show, acrobats on Arabian horses firing rifles in the air, horseback acrobatics, belly dancing, etc. It takes place at night in a huge imitation of an old castle.

Football: Stade de Marrakesh. This is multi-use but mostly for football, with a capacity of 41,356. It's the home ground of Kawkab, who play in Botola 2 the second tier. In 2025 / 26 it hosted matches in the Africa Cup of Nations.

Marrakech Paragliding. Leave the city behind and discover the incredible beauty of Morocco from above! Enjoy an exciting tandem paragliding experience near Marrakech, surrounded by the spectacular Atlas Mountains.

The main square in the Medina is Djemaa El-Fna. It is surrounded by endless labyrinths of souks (bazaars) and alley ways covering all of the Medina. Djemma El-Fna is a must as there is always something to see there day and night whether it be snake charmers, acrobats, sooth-sayers,or the musicians and food stalls. At night the square really comes to life as people navigate toward the exotic aromas and the entertaining sights. As the evening darkens, the hustle & bustle of activity rages on. The exotic music appears louder and more hypnotic.

The Medina is also the place to stay in a Riad, a Moroccan house with an internal courtyard. Most windows are inward facing towards the central atrium. This design of property suits Islamic tradition as there is no obvious wealth statement being made externally, no windows to peer through. Entering a Riad is like discovering an Aladdin's Cave in comparison to its non-descript exterior. They are great places to stay and offer an intimate and relaxing retreat.

Directly south of the Djemaa El-Fna is Rue Bab Agnaou. A five-min walk takes you straight to the famous Bab Agnaou entrance to the Kasbah district of the Medina. The Bab Agnaou entrance, through the ramparts, is by far the most impressive entrance of all medina rampart entrances.

The Kasbah, in comparison to the Derbs (streets) surrounding the Djemaa El-Fna, portrays a calmer, less abrasive atmosphere. It is home to the Royal Palace, also the former El - Badi Palace and the Saadian Tombs. This naturally creates better security, cleaner streets and a hint of being a special place within the medina. The Kasbah has its own little bazaars (Souikas), food stalls, restaurants, hotels and riads for travellers to enjoy.

Hammams are baths, often close to mosques to facilitate the performance of ablutions. In guidebooks and signs that call them "Moroccan Turkish Baths" the name "Turkish" is a misnomer, since Morocco (unlike Egypt or Syria) was never under Ottoman rule, but the historical role of the baths is authentic in Morocco.

Les Bains de Marrakech. Tourists-oriented in good sense: couples can have hammam together in a private room. Extensive list of massages and spa treatments from 30 min to a full day. Reception and attendants are proficient in speaking English, however, the scrubbing and massage personnel speak only very basic vocabulary. You need to book two days in advance.

Thai marrakech. Bann Thai institute is a beauty center based in the heart of Marrakech. His team is a graduate of the famous school of Wat Po in Bangkok. The center offers several Thai massage relaxation with a traditional Moroccan hammam natural products

Hamam Essalama. Friendly staff, however, no English or French (other locals helped without any problem)

Ô Bain de Lina. Friendly staff, however, no English or French; other customers likely to help you out.

Marrakesh is not in the desert: you will spend several hours to get to the desert and day tours are therefore pretty stressful. If you have the time, spend at least one night in the desert or in a town close to your desert trekking destination. Beware of tours that don't include meals and water as they will drop you at 100 dirham restaurants far from any other option.

A good alternative to big desert trips is a day-trip to the Agafay desert. It is rockier (less sandy), but a common trip for the locals.

Go Marrakech Desert Trips. Local tour operator offering shared and private trips between Marrakech, Merzouga and Fes. The company organizes 2–4 day Sahara tours including camel rides, overnight camps at Erg Chebbi, transportation, and optional hotel upgrades.

Morocco Desert Guide. Licensed tour operator offering private and shared desert tours from Marrakech to Merzouga and Erg Chebbi. Camel trekking, overnight desert camps, and multi-day Sahara experiences. English, French and Arabic spoken.

Buy

Along with the major souk (Arabic for 'market') adjacent to the Djemaa El-Fna, there are a plethora of smaller souks throughout the city, where any number of products can be had. In any of them, you generally need to bargain. Keep an eye out for a wide array of hand-crafted candle-holding lanterns, as well as spectacular displays of local spices.

Most shops sell the same handful of items. But if you wander a little off from El-Fna, you can find small workshops with real craftsmen making handmade goods. You then get to talk to craftsmen of the item you bought. If you buy shoes or clothes, they can also make alterations for you, and there are a few places that make unique products.

Argan oil, produced only in Morocco, is used in Moroccan cooking and beauty treatments. If you enjoy its unique nutty flavour, be sure to pick some up in the souks.

Marrakech is home to a large tanning industry, and leather goods of high quality can be bought here cheaply. Check out camel leather items especially - jackets, round poufs (little ottomans), and handbags.

For the shoes, always check they have no paper inside sole because it is very common. Do not be fooled by demonstration of bending the shoe back and forth; try it yourself by feeling and hearing how the paper bends. For poor quality shoes you should not pay more than 40 dirham, and for a good pair no more than 90 dirham. Shop around and learn the difference in shoe quality.

Also of interest would be items made of the local cactus silk, which is really rayon, a natural fiber made of plant cellulose and produced in Morocco. Rayon holds the chemical dyes well, which accounts for the vibrant range of true colour (natural dyes cannot produce a "true" color). On offer are scarves, handbags, tablecloths, bedspreads and throws in stunning colour.

Be sure to wander around the potters' souk, and look for brightly colored platters and bowls, as well as tagines (large, lidded cookpots) in all sizes

Lovely cashmere shawls can also be had for less than a fiver with a little bargaining.

If you cannot stand the bargaining, there are two government-run shops where you can buy handicrafts at fixed prices. Look for boutique d'artisans. One is near Djemaa El-Fna while the other one is in the ville nouvelle.

Les établissements Bouchaïb. Huge two-story store with fixed prices. Carpets, spices, argon oil, jewelry, ceramics, furniture, wood handcrafts, etc.

An option to explore the souks in a more tranquil way is to go during the Friday prayer. Although some shops will be closed, most stay open and are significantly less crowded than at other times.

The Apple and Samsung smartphones being sold on Djemaa El-Fna are Chinese-built fakes; they work fine but employ less storage and cheaper components than the originals. Bargain accordingly.

Chez Monseur Michelin. Handmade bags and fashion items made from recycled tires and inner tubes.

Faissal. Tiny workshop making scarves in wool, cotton, and linen.

Maison du Caftan. Boutique specializing in traditional Moroccan caftans.

Cash You will need cash in Marrakech. Restaurants accept cards but you will need cash for all shops, taxis and to pay your hotel tourist tax. You can withdraw cash from ATMs in the airport.

This applies to both products and services.

As a guide for prices, maximum and generous prices you should pay. Djellaba, long coat with hood for men, made of cotton/wool. Low quality: 90 dirham. Good (thick) quality: 300 dirham. Paintings, depends on the quality and size but no more than 50 dirham for a 70x50cm. Shisha, 150 dirham for the smallest ones. Prices then vary with size and quality. Tobacco for shisha, 20 dirham. There are many flavours and decent prices at the duty-free store at the airport in Marrakech. Shoes, for home, no more than 50 dirham for a good one, for the street no more than 90 dirham for a good quality one. Lamp, no more than 60 dirham for a medium size lamp. Woven beanie, 15 dirham. T-shirt, no more than 50 dirham for a large. Small wooden snake toys, 5 dirham. Small teapot (2-3 cups), 90-100 dirham. Medium size cooking tagine 40 dirham. (Choose carefully, glazed tagines have a risk of releasing unsafe levels of lead.) Dress for women, poor quality, not wool, 30 dirham. 250 g of gunpowder tea, 30 dirham. Although best bought at a supermarket. Round piece of bread, 1.5 dirham. Spice mixes, 80 dirham/kg. Cumin, curcuma, cinnamon, ground ginger, etc. 40-60 dirham/kg

Also see Morocco#Buy. Even hostel prices can be haggled.

Remember, sellers are just the middle man, they do not produce it, except maybe for some kinds of lamps, and they pay very little to the people who actually make it. Also, never pay in advance. And never let anyone write you an invoice. It is a bad idea and in most of the cases you will never see your goods or money back.

Most major banks and a slew of cash exchange shops can be found in a cluster around Arset el bilk (next to the main square). Most banks don't accept Unionpay and many ATMs displaying the Unionpay logo actually don't support the cards regardless of what Unionpay or the bank's website will tell you. Apparently the Société Générale banks can do withdrawals from 16:00-21:00.

Be aware that if you are shopping at western stores like Zara, that the return policies are different. Contrary to many other countries, purchases by credit card can only be exchanged, not returned. However, cash purchases can be returned for a refund.

Eat

How to eat (well) in the Djemaa El-Fna

Each night in the Djemaa El-Fna rows of street stalls are set up under giant white tents. Everyone has tajine, couscous, brochette and some variety of soups. Some have specialities like offal, egg sandwiches or special tajines. Be aware that most restaurants employ rather insistent "greeters," who are very aggressive in trying to customers for their stall. The line 'we already ate' seems to work well to get them to stop. As of 2018, the "greeters" mentioned above have changed strategies to one of harassment and insults. They try to separate couples and corner women while hurling insults.

If you want to eat well in Marrakech, do what the locals do and eat at the food stalls in the square. It is a common misconception that these stalls are only here for the tourists. Actually, they have been in existence long before Marrakech became a tourist destination. All of the stalls can be regarded as perfectly safe to eat at. They are strictly licensed and controlled by the government, especially now as it is a popular destination for tourists. The locals eat at the cheaper stalls that don't employ greeters and serve the more interesting food: snails, sheep head, lentils and beans.

Prices tend to vary a little. Depending upon how hungry you are, you can pay anything from 10 dirham for a bread filled with freshly grilled sausages, or perhaps a bowl of harira soup to 100 dirham for a full three-course meal with salad, bread, starter, main course, and tea. Try harira (great soup, of lamb/beef, red lentils and vegetables) and the fried aubergines. Don't be afraid to try the lamb head: it's really tasty. The "bull stew" (beef stew) should also be given a chance in the same stalls. Don't miss the tea! There is a row of tea sellers along the front of the food stalls who each sell tea for 3 dirham each (as of 2011). Most of the tea at these stalls is ginseng tea with cinnamon and ginger... most delicious and welcoming. They also have cake, made of basically the same spices, which can be a bit overpowering. On the other hand, some stalls offer free mint tea to encourage you to choose them. Early mornings, look for people frying riifa in the covered part opposite the Koutoubia. Riifa is dough stretched and flattened and folded over, then cooked in a frying pan, and is best described as a Moroccan version of a pancake or crepe.

Chez Chegrouni. Their vegetarian couscous is supposedly the only true vegetarian couscous in town; it's also bland but they give you plenty of it. Prices go up if you sit on the terrace. Usually packed full of good-time tourists.

Chez Yassine. Not much choice but served by very friendly people. Tajines and pizzas are great and you can also order skewers that are not on the menu.

Henna Cafe. A pretty little cafe on 3 floors with an orange sign on the Berber hand-carved wooden facade opened in November 2011. You can have a cup of tea or coffee or simple lunch with dessert or just a sandwich. The Henna Café offers safe henna body adornment as well-ranging from a 50 dirham small motif on your hand to a full arm complex design for a wedding from 500 dirham. All profits go to local causes. Henna cafe was set up by the owners of Riad Cinnamon and Riad Papillon and Vivid Trading in order to start to 'give back' to Marrakech and offer support to those who might want it. The café offers free English lessons to Moroccan women so that they can find employment out of the home.

Chez Bismilah. Amazing food and wonderful service. The owner is very kind and the fantastic chef is a humble lady who cooks perfectly all the traditional Moroccan recipes. Tayine Royale is recommended. The roof top has an amazing view over the old medina.

Café Babouche medina. In a small street a few steps from the Jemaa El Fna square. You can eat there in a friendly atmosphere. The veal tagine with prunes and almonds is spectacular.

Black Pan. Italian restaurant. Artisanal pizzas, traditional Italian dishes and warm atmosphere.

Mid-range For more upscale eateries (and especially for non-Moroccan cuisine) you generally must go outside the Medina to Ville Nouvelle.

Associacion Amal. Here you can experience lunch similar to what Moroccans eat at home: this women's aid association provides women with education in exchange for food which is then sold for financing the model.

16 Café. Moroccan kitchen. 16 café is caterer of events and weddings.

Café Arabe. They have a Moroccan and an Italian cook, so there are two menus to choose from. There are three floors including the downstairs courtyard which is lovely for lunch. The top floor terrace has fantastic views, you can lounge on their sofas sipping a cocktail and watching the sun go down over the medina.

Al Fassia. Traditional Moroccan food in cozy restaurant run by women (except the doorman). Wine served by the bottle.

Café du Livre. A western style bookshop-café in the villa nouvelle

Café Kabash. Have a roof terrace with a good view. Daily Moroccan menus with tea and juice.

Le Marrakchi. With two main courses and wine running at around 300 dirham, this is one of the poshest restaurants in the square. The food is not necessarily better than elsewhere, but it is one of the few restaurants that serves alcohol. It also has a completely enclosed upstairs terrace, which is ideal for views of the square when the weather is bad.

Le Bistrot Loft. Steaks, bistro food and good wines. Bar with beer, aperitifs and cocktails.

Diaffa. An upscale restaurant in one of the oldest buildings in the Medina, and offers Moroccan cuisine in an ambiance that recalls the Orient at the height of its magic and glory. The food, building (whether the tables around the central courtyard and fountain or the second-level balcony), and tactful and tasteful entertainment.

Dar Najat's Kitchen. Daily fresh food in a boutique riad.

Maison de la Photographie. A little photography museum, it has one of the highest roof terraces in the Medina.

Pepe Nero. Fine Italian and Moroccan dining in gorgeous Riad. Often full so make a reservation.

La Villa des Orangers. French gastronomic cuisine in a very calm and pleasant atmosphere. Enjoy your dinner in soft chairs, among dark woodpanels, bookcases and artwork. In the winter start with a drink at the fireplace.

Le Grand Café de la Poste. French brasserie with Moroccan influence in the former post office.

Le Grand Salon. Upscale restaurant with French cuisine. Serve organic vegetables and olive oil from its own gardens.

Dar Yacout. Traditional Moroccan gastronomic cuisine. Has a terrace overlooking the Medina.

Le Foundouk. Moroccan and European cuisine. Roof terrace and bar.

Les Jardins de la Medina. Traditional and modern Moroccan cuisine. Moroccan wine served by bottle and glass. Stylish restaurant with tall white columns.

Eloomm. Mediterranean restaurant where slow dining meets Moroccan produce.

Drink

Street vendors offer fresh orange juice (jus d'Orange) by the glass for 4 dirham. Try it with a dash of salt like the locals, but be wary of vendors who try to water the juice down with tap water. Also, pay attention when you buy as they offer 2 types of orange...

Unscrupulous vendors will sometimes try to charge you 10 dirham for a 4-dirham glass of jus d'Orange, so don't accept your drink until you've paid the correct amount.

Be wary also, that they do not always clean the glasses very well so it is possible to get an upset stomach from the juice.

There is a very limited selection of places selling alcohol in the Medina.

Chesterfield Pub. A slightly unusual experience, apparently an 'English pub' it serves Moroccan lager and has an outside pool in a courtyard with palm trees, not an entirely English experience. Much less touristy than it sounds with a mainly local clientele. It serves a decent pint.

Le Salama. Happy hour from 17:00 until they close, mostly western pop classics on the top floor. Very touristy with shishas, belly dancing and waiters who wear a fez - none of it is typically Moroccan but the overall atmosphere is between relaxed and party vibe. Also offers traditional Moroccan snacks. Good for smaller (up to 10 people) groups.

Hotel Grand Tazi. The hotel has a public bar, serving beer and wine and is not overly expensive.

Narwama. Restaurant and bar that has a fire fountain in the centre and an open roof around the patio. The atmosphere is very chilled and their food is very good, but slightly expensive. Good for pre-dinner drinks.

Montecristo. Nightclub with rooftop terrace

Jad Mahal. Lounge bar and formal restaurant.

Sky Lounge. Fashionable rooftop lounge on top of the Pearl Hotel

Comptoir Darna. Cocktail bar and night club Dress code: elegant

African Chic. Moroccan Latin Brazilian. Also has a restaurant with a view to the dance floor.

Sleep

Marrakech has an amazing choice of places to stay ranging from tented camps outside Marrakech to cheap hostels and hotels that can be charming or seedy to luxurious kasbahs in luxurious gardens or the traditional riad (garden courtyard) hotels. Wherever you choose (or can afford) to stay it really is a must to visit one of the riad hotels to see this amazing style of architecture. Most riad managers will be happy to show you around provided that they are not too busy and in some riads you can even book a lunch or dinner without being a resident provided that the riad is not privately rented. For example, see Riad Cinnamon, Riad Laksiba and Riad Papillon.

There are three main zones to sleep: Medina, Guéliz (also known as Ville Nouvelle), and the surroundings of the city.

The surroundings have all the huge tourist hotels, the ones that usually come with what the travel agencies offer. They can be further away from the medina and the rest of the city, but have big swimming pools, restaurants, and many services.

The Medina is packed with Riads and Dars (old grand houses converted into hotels and inns). Traditionally, riads should have gardens; with smaller dars having open courtyards. However the term riad is now used loosely to describe any house with an internal open-air center. These are wonderful places to stay to get a feel for life in Marrakech.

If you arrive by car, ask the hosts to help you find your way from the parking lot, especially if you never experienced orientation in a real medina before.

Dar Attajmil. Centrally located and easy to reach, Dar Attajmil has a sand colored courtyard shaded by a tall banana tree; 4 double rooms with bathroom, 1 family suite with private courtyard, several cozy sitting areas, fireplace and library, a large terrace garden where breakfast and meals are served and a devoted team of 5 lovely persons; hammam, massages, cooking class available. Owner organic farm near Essaouira provides daily fresh products, olive and argan oil and the opportunity to spend one or more days in this old restored property, among the argan trees.

Dar Jaguar. Dar Jaguar is an ancient riad that has been restored as a beautiful private guesthouse. It is situated in the heart of the old medina, neighbouring the exotic Place des Epices (spice market).

Here are a sample of some of the riads (in alphabetical order) where you can experience Marrakech's unique style of living:

Riad Abaka. A spacious riad with seven beautifully furnished bedrooms and ensuite bathrooms.

Riad Amazigh. A former luxury riad, now a beautiful hostel. Doubles, singles, and dorms which house up to 8 people. Roof top terrace with nice views, unheated pool, restaurant and bar. Wi-Fi in communal areas, breakfast included. Open 24 hrs, can book activities and excursions.

Riad Basma. 5 double rooms with bathroom.

Riad Chennaoui. Simple and basic riad in the Medina. The staff are friendly and happy to discuss Moroccan life and culture over a shisha in the evening. This place can be difficult to find – you may have to pay a local to take you there (10–20 dirham should do it, although they will ask for more).

Riad Cinnamon. Designed and rebuilt to a very high standard with attention to detail. Dinners served on roof terrace with nice views, pools on patio and roof garden terrace. 5 rooms that can accommodate 3 to 4 people each, with an overall maximum of 16.

Riad Dar Eliane. Four spacious double bedrooms and bathrooms with A/C. Accommodation is on two floors of a restored 300 year old riad in an older quarter of Marrakesh. Ten minute walk to Jamaa el Fna.

Riad Iaazane. A restored riad with extensive use of traditional styling and ceramics, includes a roof terrace with views. Shower, internet with Wi-Fi access, washing, shisha (hooka), free mint tea, city map. An authentic local style breakfast included (08:30–11:30). The owners also operate a tour company that offers guided and structured tours of 1–3 days.

Riad LakLak. A riad built in the 17th century, which sleeps 12 in 2 suites and 3 bedrooms, that can be rented as a whole.

Riad Laksiba. A very popular Riad with UK visitors. Five bedrooms all with bespoke hand carved beds designed to be split to make twin bedrooms. From Bab Ksiba, an entrance into the Royal Kasbah quarter of the Medina, 1st right is Derb Kadi and Riad Laksiba is the last house in this little cul-de-sac. Ten minute walk to the Djemaa el-Fna main square.

Riad Lotus Perle. Riad Lotus Perle is in the Medina, in an old neighborhood near the lively souks and Djemaa El-Fna square, this is a wonderful riad composed of rooms and suites combining authenticity and modernity.

Riad Magellan. An elegant six-bedroom riad which offers a restful and relaxing atmosphere, in the Mouassine district. Traditional Moroccan meals are available as well as complementary Wi-Fi internet. Airport transfer service available on request.

Riad Melhoun. Located in central Marrakech, a 3-minute walk from the El Badi and El Bahia Palaces, it features an interior courtyard with a swimming pool and a furnished rooftop terrace with views of the medina. Each room has traditional Moroccan decoration and en-suite shower. Guests also have access to a traditional living room with a fireplace and a lounge area with books. Free Wi-Fi is available in common areas, hammam, massages and traditional meals are provided on request.

Riad Naila. Riad Naila Marrakech is a gorgeous private rental home in the Medina of Marrakech built around a patio with a large roof terrace. It is in the Medina of Marrakech in a calm area a fifteen-minute walk away from the Djemaa El-Fna square. It has four bedrooms which sleep seven persons. Each bedroom has its own bath room. Additionally are available a fully equipped kitchen, a Moroccan lounge and a library.

Riad Dar Najat. Jacuzzi on the roof terrace, Wi-Fi throughout the riad, 7 ensuite shower and A/C accommodation with great gastronomy. French owner, friendly team and atmosphere.

Riad Papillon. A riad with five beautiful rooms: Rose, Jasmine, Bougainvillea, Hibiscus and Geranium. It is located in the heart of the Dar el Basha antique district which is very safe. Cuisine is exceptional, service is warm and attentive but discrete. Breakfast and Wi-Fi internet are included. Very romantic and wonderful atmosphere with welcoming dipping pool and tent on roof terrace. Airport pickups available.

Hotel Riad Primavera. The only kosher hotel in all of Morocco. The kosher certification is in the lobby and is issued by the Beth Din of Marrakech. 22 rooms with personal A/C units, TVs, bathrooms with showers, decorated in typical Moroccan style. Prices tend to rise during major Jewish holidays and festivals.

Riad Dar Zaman. A gorgeous old riad with four en suite rooms, in the historic Sidi Ben Slimane district. Fantastic views of Atlas Mountains from roof terrace, deliciously refreshing dipping pool, wonderful dreamy atmosphere.

Riad Zara. Run by the friendly and helpful owner Monique and her assistant Hassan. Features a rooftop terrace with nice views of Medina and cozy cane chairs, and a small pool in the center of the Riad. Traditional meals such as Tajines can be served any time of the day. Breakfast includes an array of jams, amlou, pancakes, and mint tea and can be served at flexible times. In the evening, candles are lit and guests gather around the pool, enjoying wine and if you're lucky Hassan might give a live music performance.

Riad Zolah. Chic while cozy and informal riad run by Ismail and his team. The house cook, Fadila, makes fabulous fresh baked breads at breakfast. Gorgeous roof terrace and two candle-lit/petal-strewn courtyard patios (one with plunge pool).

Ryad Dyor. Riad hotel with 7 luxury suites.

Riad Al Loune. Charming Riad with pool and hammam.

The budget conscious will have more luck in the streets and alleyways south of Djemaa El-Fna, which are packed with discount hotels offering singles from 50 dirham. Derb Sidi Bouloukat is a good place to look, a quiet but safe alleyway packed with traditional-style hotels just a min from Djemaa El-Fna. Its entrance is easy to find, just a few steps away from Djemaa El-Fna. Take Riad Zatoune (unmarked) which starts right of the Moroccan Red Crescent (with your back towards the Koutoubia) and it's the first alley on the right (marked in Arabic only). On your way in Riad Zitoune you will also come across the public hammam (10 dirham, left entrance for women, right entrance for men, the soap, glove and small bucket can be bought at many shops across the street) and a small restaurant serving bissara and mint tea for less than 5 dirham.

Popular options with backpackers include:

Hotel Ali. Rue Moulay Ismail. Beds in en suite, dorms, and rooftop terrace mattresses for 60 dirham per person per night, including cooked breakfasts served with orange juice and fresh coffee. Dorm guests can use the internet cafe for 5 dirham per hour. They have a laundry service and free internet access for private room guests, money exchange, a terrace restaurant with views of Djemaa El-Fna, and a downstairs hammam.

Hotel Salam (laksor). Cheap and clean hotels, doesn't seem to have showers.

Hotel Atlas. 50 Derb Sidi Bouloukat. A 2-min walk to the famous square of Djemaa El-Fna. Clean and friendly with nice rooms with shared bathrooms. Singles from 90 dirham, doubles from 170 dirham, for 3 people 250 dirham, for 4 people 280 dirham, for 5 people 320 dirham. There are some rooms with AC for an additional 50 dirham. The hotel is charming and all arranged in the traditional way.

Hotel Central Palace. Rooms are around a noisy and echoey central courtyard. Rooms are clean, but the shared toilets can be another story. Indifferent staff and housekeepers. Nice terrace with a great view, and rooms starting at 150 dirham for a double room with shared showers and toilet. You get what you pay for, but all in all it's a good value considering that Marrakech is more expensive that most other places in Morocco. Car rentals can be arranged (around 350 dirham per day for a small but fairly new car).

Hotel el-Ward. Clean, quite comfortable, and the owners are very friendly whenever they feel like it. The rooftop terrace isn't lavish, but being one of the highest it does have a great view. 60/120/170/220 dirham for single/double/triple/quadruple.

Hotel Essaouira. The hotel has singles with a shared bath from 50 dirham and doubles from 90 dirham. It is more or less like the others, but it's all painted in the traditional way, which gives it charm. Hot water does not stay hot for long. Overall a very good value and comfortable place from which to explore the old town.

Hotel Imouzzer. One of the cheapest and best-value hotels with rooms starting at 65 dirham for singles and 120 dirham for doubles (slightly higher in high season), all with shared bathrooms. Rooms are arranged around a traditional courtyard, and both rooms and shared bathrooms are clean with hot water. The hotel also has a comfortable terrace where you can eat breakfast for 20 dirham.

Hotel Sindi. Sud 109, Derb Sidi Bouloukat, Riad Zitoun El Kidim,

Hotel Smara. Very clean, friendly people, nice rooms. 50 dirham and doubles 80 dirham.

Hotel Cecil. At the Djemaa El-Fna, Bouloukate. Rooftop breakfast and Wi-Fi included.

Palm Plaza Hotel and Spa. . Luxurious and comfortable providing 230 rooms, including 151 twin, 52 double, 2 rooms for disabled persons, 6 junior suites, 20 senior suites and a royal suite. The hotel has a piano bar, night club and a restaurant. Snacks are available at the pool bar. The spa features a heated indoor swimming pool, a sauna, a hammam and a gym.

Riad Lyla. In Laksour district, 2 min from Djemaa El-Fna, Lyla Riad Marrakech opens its doors. Gérard is the riad's passionate owner.

Riad Rahba. Offers private, en suite rooms and is a minute from Djemaa El-Fna, at the entrance to the Souks. The Riad combines the traditional Moroccan atmosphere with the comforts of a modern hostel and hotel.

Le Vizir Center Park Resort. Suites decorated in 3 different styles of architecture.

In the little streets between rue Bab Agnaou and rue Riad Zitoune (where the Smara, the Essaouira, and the Imouzzer are) there are a lot of other small hostels. It is difficult to get lost as they are surrounded by these two big streets and Djemaa El-Fna. It could be a good idea to arrive during the day (best in the morning) and wander around comparing many hostels in a short time.

Marrakech Rose. Charming little hostel right in the center of town, with small dorms and super-friendly staff. Great place to meet other travellers and socialize - mostly a younger crowd. Not the best choice if you want an early night's sleep.

Massine II. 2nd backpackers in Marrakech in the old Medina. Originally a 16th century house. Central garden, and rooftop. Shower, internet, washing facilities. Breakfast is available, book early, this is a popular establishment. Some travellers complain the sheets are not changed regularly. Also, travellers aren't always registered properly.

The Heart of the Medina backpackers hostel. 1st backpackers hostel to be located in the Medina. 1 minute walk from Place Djemaa El-Fna. Rooftop terrace, hot showers, comfortable surroundings. No more than 6 beds to a room. Breakfast included as are bed linens, towels, and free Wi-Fi. No lockouts, no curfews, and is open 24/7, 365 days/ year.

Rue Mohammed el-Hansali. A clean hostel with a 23:30 curfew and obligatory wake up call at 08:00. Daily daytime lockout. It is a fair distance from the action in the heart of the Medina.

Sirayane boutique hotel & spa. Spread across nearly 5 acres of gardens, this boutique hotel faces the Atlas Mountains.

Guéliz (also known as Ville Nouvelle)

Hotel Toulousain. A budget-friendly hotel with rooms going off two nice courtyards, located in a rear building and therefore quiet, no luxury equipment but clean, tidy and friendly and helpful staff

Hotel al Kabir. This modern, airy hotel is one of a group of similar standard hotels in this area of Guéliz. Mainly used by tour groups and reservation agencies, the Hotel al Kabir's rooms, accessible from three elevators, are all clean, modern, and well appointed, if a tad sterile, and the bathrooms are a reasonable size with shower/tub combos.

La Mamounia. Conceived in 1923 by architects Henri Prost and Antoine Marchisio, the hotel opened in 1929, combining Moroccan architecture with the Art Deco style. Renovated in 2009 and 2020. The hotel includes a 10-ha garden, colonnaded courtyards, terraces, swimming pools, a spa, and a health club in a glass cube. Many celebrities have stayed at the hotel, including Winston Churchill, Nelson Mandela, Paul MacCartney and Andy Warhol.

Hotel Ibis. A more impersonal European chain hotel, but very clean and peaceful. It is within a short taxi ride of all the action. If you want to be able to escape the hustle and bustle during the heat of the day and chill out by a pool, this place is perfect. Decent value for the money as well, with lovely rooms and showers. Free internet with wifi is provided in the lobby.

Moroccan House Hotel. A colorful and personable hotel. As the name suggests, this is more like a house than a standard block hotel. The extravagantly painted and decorated interior is entered through bright blue heavy wood studded doors. Choice of various brightly colored interiors furnished with faux-antiques and lace-draped four-poster beds. Each bathroom has its own water heater and bath/shower combo, and comes supplied with a range of toiletries. Close to many of Guéliz's better restaurants and shops.

Oudaya Hotel. Situated close to the railway station, the Oudaya is a good alternative for travellers looking for a medium prized hotel in the Ville Nouvelle. The rooms are clean and well-kept with good size bathrooms, air-condition and TV. Breakfast is served from early in the morning and consists of a well stocked buffet, the restaurant is however mediocre and much better meals can be had just around the corner. The courtyard has a large pool (open 09:00-18:00) lined with a massive bougainvilla. The hotel does have a policy of no outside food, which includes bottled water, so make sure to keep any purchases hidden when entering.

Villa Dar El Kanoun. Route de Targa. Luxury B&B villa with swimming pool and garden. It offers five comfortable double rooms in a quiet residential area nearby Marrakech downtown. Breakfast is included.