Moroni (Comoros).
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Overview

Moroni (in Arabic موروني Mūrūnī) is the capital and largest city of the Comoros. It is a lively city and an ideal base to organise trips around the island, as there are several travel agencies and you can find any kind of service you may need by asking people around. The downside is that there is a lot of garbage all over the coast, and in many other places around the city.

Understand

Moroni has been the capital of the Comoros since 1962. It is on the western coast of Grande Comore island.

Get in

The easiest way to get there is by taxi. You can either stop an empty one heading north on the corniche or take one at the taxi stop opposite Volo Volo market.

By boat Moroni is connected by boat to every other island in Comoros, to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania and to Mahajanga in Madagascar.

There are no official passenger services beyond the Comoros archipelago, but travelling in a cargo vessel is doable. There are boats of different sizes and normally they don't have cabins, so you will need to find a place to lay down if your trip is overnight. This can be a seat or bench if you are lucky or even the merchandise the boat is transporting. It is always wise to ask to see the boat before buying the ticket. Basic meals are served on international routes, but again, ask first.

There are at least two frequent international routes, one to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania and another one to Mahajanga in Madagascar.

For Mahajanga, the transport agency in charge is called Agency Hishma. It is on Itsambuni street, very close to the port. Departures are once per week and it takes 2 or 3 days, depending on the boat. To travel to Dar Es Salaam, there are different agencies in charge. There is one in place Europe behind the gas station, and several in Bacha neighbourhood — just opposite the port — including Agency Massive, Ismaili Boat and Hidaya Shipping. They all seem to be just different agents fir the same boat, though. To find them, leave the port from the workers gate and head to the street behind the KomoCash Centre supermarket.

To travel among the islands, you have several options.

The company Maria Galanta travels to Moutsamoudou in Anjouan (and further to Mayotte) twice per week. As of October 2018, it leaves Moroni Thursdays and Sundays, and returns Wednesdays and Saturdays.

By road There are at least three different bus stations with services to different points on the island. There is no fixed schedule, but most buses run only in the morning. If there is no bus, you can probably catch a taxi there, although it might be more expensive. The stations are:

To the north Travellers heading to Mitsamihuli, or further, should head to the Gare du Nord to take a taxi, to the neighbourhood of Salimamoud direction Hamahamet or to the Volo Volo Market stop if travelling to Mbude.

To the south Those people travelling to Mdé, Iconi, Selea or Hambou should take a taxi in the stop of Gobadjou near Bambao. Otherwise, travellers going to Mbadijini, Fomboni, Chindini or Male can take a taxi in Karthala (do not confuse this with Hotel Karthala, which is much further east).

To the east In order to get to Oichilli or Dimani take a taxi in the roundabout in Culée. Travellers aiming for Chomoni can find taxis in the stop of Chalma.

Get around

There is no bus service in Moroni; everyone travels within the city by shared taxi. You can stop a taxi anywhere in the city and ask if your destination matches with the driver's route.

See

Volo Volo Market. Volo Volo market is the biggest in the city, and the island. It will give you an insight into local culture and life. It's better to visit in the morning when it is bursting with energy. Maybe put some eucalyptus or sniffing salts under your nose.

Public Beach. Don't miss the opportunity to visit it after work time or Sundays, when it gets full of locals looking for fun and relaxation.

Old Friday Mosque. A popular tourist spot.

Medina. La Medina of Moroni is the perfect off-the-beaten track attraction. The old Arabic town is rich in unrestored carved wooden doors and you can also find the vestiges of the old bangwe. Bangwees are public discussion places, everyday men used to meet here to discuss about life or play boardgames. One can say that the bangwee is the homologue of the agora. The labyrinth of narrow and paved streets will give you the feeling of having travelled back in time. The architecture and fountains will shelter you from the sun.

National Museum of the Comoros. Established in 1989, this national museum has four exhibit rooms devoted to the preservation of Comoros' cultural heritage. Exhibit halls include history, archeology, art, and religion; social anthropology and culture; oceanography and natural sciences; and volcanology and earth sciences.

Do

Itsandra. White sand beach and medina neighborhood. Restaurant on beach. A short taxi ride north of Moroni

Buy

There are two main markets, Volo Volo and Chalma, where you can find anything you may wish, particularly fruit and vegetables that are often missing in supermarkets.

Supermarkets are open until at least 21:00 and are well supplied, and there are also many convenience stores (épiceries) all around the city.

Eat

There are plenty of options to eat in Moroni, although it is a bit more expensive than other places in the island or even in the country still it is possible to stay on a budget.

To have an inexpensive lunch the best options is the Volo Volo market; in the heart of the market you will find small and simple restaurants.

When the sun sets it is easy to find street barbecues with brochettes, chicken wings, sweet potatoes, bananas and mandioc. Particularly the barbecues proliferate around Volo Volo market, but for a better ambiance during dinner head to Karthala, officially called place du Mahoriens, or River Gauche. River Gauche in the Corniche is named after the beauty shop in front of it; the views over the port and the families that meet there make it all a nice experience.

Wasta fast food. Fast food is served all day long.

Coraya Express. Kitchen always open. It offers hamburgers, crepes, pizzas, very good sandwiches and all kind of fast food.

Le Coraya Express. A smaller version of Le Coraya with limited hours, a smaller menu, and a much less spectacular view. Especially known for its pizza and sandwiches. Another Le Coraya Express location is also inside the Hahaya airport.

Le Coraya. It is in the village of Itsandra just north of Moroni, Le Coraya offers everything from burgers to pizza to pasta to seafood, as well as alcohol and hookah. Enjoy a relaxing meal as well as some of the best restaurant views in Comoros, as it sits right on the Indian Ocean next to the beach.

New Mumbai. A quaint little restaurant serving Indian and Chinese food right by the ocean. Sitting by the ocean gives you the best sea breeze, but you also run the risk of seeing local men bathing naked in the water nearby. To get here from Moroni, tell a taxi driver you're going to Alliance Française, otherwise they likely won't know where to go.

L'Escale. Classy restaurant featuring more traditional Comorian food and a lot of seafood, as well as sporadic live entertainment. As of spring 2020, bungalows are being constructed on the grounds.

Wasta. The closest thing to fast food you'll find in Comoros, Wasta has cheeseburgers, pizza, burritos, fries, and even birthday cakes.

MoCafe. A stylish little cafe featuring lots of Comorian and French baked goods, as well as sandwiches, tea, sodas, and fresh juice.

Nassib. A combination cafe and restaurant in the middle of Volovolo, the porch outside is the best place to sit for a tea and traditional bread in the morning or a delicious burger and fries in the afternoon. Other Nassib franchises are located in a few other locations in Moroni.It has delicious pain au chocolat, sandwiches, pizza, decent coffee, and porch seating where you can people-watch.

Tennis Club. Combination restaurant, bar, and actual tennis club. Serves some of the best Western cuisine in Comoros, as well as some of the best wine. Sit down for a nice meal or go to play a game of tennis on their courts. It's has a number of signature dishes one can try including the spaghetti and smoked swordfish. It's also one of the few places to get alcohol in Moroni.

The New Select. This popular place has a terrace from which you can contemplate people passing by. It opens early in the morning for breakfast.

Cafe de la Medina. Small café with a welcoming environment: the locals enjoy talking to tourists.

Zara Restaurant. It is more popular during lunch time and more quiet at dinner, but an excellent choice in both cases.

Le Jardin de la Paix. The restaurant hotel offers a high quality of meals, with a menu including delicious fresh fish and seafood, prepared in the Comoros fusion style. There are also a couple of Western dishes.

Drink

Moroni may not look like a place to party but there are more than a couple of clubs to dance all night long. The party starts late after midnight and finishes with the sunrise. What most locals do to be full of energy is have a long nap before going clubbing. Drinking alcohol is not generally accepted in Comoros, although it is commonly seen in clubs.

VIP club. The basement of this unfinished building host a dance floor in which dancing begins late. Outside there is also a bar and a patio to take a breath. The entrance fee gets you an armband and a drink at the bar.

Le Rose Noir. A night club in Moroni. Very European, the club-goers are not inhibited by Muslim values: there are scantily clad women, men and women dancing together, and locals drinking.

Sleep

Accommodation is expensive in Moroni. If you plan to stay for more than couple of days renting an apartment may be a better option. But if you look for a hotel or pension to stay just couple of nights you still can find a wide range of possibilities:

Retaj. Probably one of the nicest hotels in Comoros, Retaj is often host to Comorian expats, foreign tourists and international businessman.

Moifaka Hotel. One of the few "budget" hotels in Comoros located not too far from the Retaj. You definitely won't be staying here for the amenities: simple rooms, air conditioning, Wifi, limited TV, small free breakfast and a kitchen for guests, nice airy enclosed balconies on two floors and a large rooftop with nice views of Karthala.

Hôtel Les Arcades. More conveniently located than its fancier counterparts Retaj and Golden Tulip, Les Arcades offers simple rooms with air conditioning, Wifi, free breakfast, a gym, meeting rooms and a beautiful garden.

Pension Faida. Family guesthouse, clean and comfortable. With an open patio in the back to chill. No internet connection

Pension Le Gambussi. Small pension, rooms are a bit dark. No internet connection.

Farida Lodge. Breakfast not included. Farida has three rooms in her place to sublet. Internet works just near the router. You can book from Airbnb, Booking or Agoda.

Retaj Moroni Hotel. This is a really good deal. Breakfast included, good internet connection and really friendly and helpful staff.

Jardin de la Paix. Great value. Jardin de la Paix is a charming place to stay, nicely decorated it gives always good feelings. Breakfasts included, good internet connection, very friendly staff and beautiful rooms. The restaurant serves excellent meals.