Pakse.
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Overview

Pakse (ປາກເຊ) is the relatively modern and friendly capital (pop. 116,200 in 2020) of Champasak province. The transport hub of Southern Laos, Pakse is not a tourist destination in itself, but a necessary and useful stop on the tourist trail to Si Phan Don and the Bolaven Plateau, and the nearest big town to Wat Phou.

Understand

The French established Pakse in 1905. The city was the capital of the Lao Kingdom of Champasak (under French colonial rule) until 1946 when the Kingdom of Laos was formed. Pakse remains the largest town in Southern Laos and a major transportation hub; if you plan to go to the Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phou, or Si Phan Don, you will probably have to spend some time here. The town is on the Mekong River, where the Xe Don river flows into it, which gave Pakse its name, meaning "mouth of the river".

In the 21st century Pakse continues to develop rapidly, with a 32% increase in population between 2005-2020, and a great deal of construction and other economic activity, including the development of the Pakse-Japan Special Economic Zone in the area.

The rainy season lasts from April-October with rain most days in that period. the dry season lasts from November-March, with the months of March & April being the hottest.

Tourist information. On the Xe Don River near the Laos Airlines Office, with English-speaking staff. The tourist information can organize trekking to the Xe Pian and Phou Xieng Thong nature reserves and overnight stays with natives at Don Kho and Don Daeng.

Tourist Information Unofficial tourist information including suggested walking itineraries, maps and recommendations are offered by Nicolas, a passionate expat living in Laos since 2003. Send a mail to and get useful GPS, maps and a free access to the full library (automatic reply within 1 minute).

Get in

Another option is Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand. Pakse is far easier to reach from Ubon Ratchathani than from Vientiane! You can enter Laos from Thailand via the Thai - Laos border crossing at Chong Mek, and buy a Laos visa there if you don't already have one (see below). AirAsia offers flights from Bangkok (DMK) to Ubon Ratchathani (departure Bangkok 07:40, arrival Ubon Ratchathani 08:45, and departure Bangkok 18:00, arrival Ubon Ratchathani 19:00, return flights departure Ubon Ratchathani 09:15, arrival Bangkok 10:20 and departure Ubon Ratchathani 19:25. Other carriers, such as VietJet or Nok Air, also fly and might even be cheaper.

You can also take the train from Bangkok to Ubon (day or sleeper, 8-12 hours depending on train). Buses to Pakse leave from Ubon daily at 9:00 and 15:00.

There is no regular slow-boat service to Si Phan Don. If you can get a group together, you might be able to rent a private boat. The boat landing is near the mouth of the Xe Don River.

By bus Pakse has two bus stations that mainly serve locals. One serves traffic to the north and one to the south. Getting to the correct station by tuk-tuk is easy: just tell the driver your final destination.

Buses are very slow and have no A/C. Other buses go to Lao Bao (depart 06:00, 100,000 kip), Hue (depart 06:30, from 500,000 kip) and Da Nang by Da Nang bus (depart 07:00, from 600,000 kip). Some aren't direct buses and you will have to change buses twice.

You can also pay 10,000 kip for a shared songthaew (Feb 2020).

To Si Phan Don (4,000 islands): buses to Muang Khon (120 km, 3 hours, 35,000 kip including ferry) leave from 07:00 to 15:00. You have to take the bus to Ban Nakasang (3 to 4 hours, 30,000 kip) if you want to go to Don Det and Don Khong. It is much more comfortable to take the international buses to Phnom Penh and quit at Nakasong (60,000 kip including ferry). Minibuses head to/from Si Phan Don for 55,000-60,000 kip. For Si Phan Don it's also possible to go to the main bus terminal outside of the city and take a songthaew for 40,000 kip per person. Expect chickens and fish as your companions. If you want to save a little money by taking the bus yourself from Nakasong to Pakse, there are about three departures per day, all in the morning. To Bolaven Plateau: there are frequent buses to Paksong (90 min, 15,000 kip) and some buses to Saravan (115 km, 3-4 hr, 25,000 kip), leaving before 14:00. buses to Xekong (135 km, 4 hr, 30,000 kip) leave from 07:00 to 11:00 every hour and go ahead to Attapeu (210 km, 5-6 hr, 40,000 kip, 2011).

VIP buses from Vientiane operate from the near the Champasak shopping centre in the city center.

There are a number of VIP bus companies, and two of the popular ones are Chitprasom and Kriang Kai. Chitprasom (all sleeper buses) buses operate out of a station close to the shopping centre near the city centre. Kriang Kai (all sleeper buses) operate out of a private bus station 2 km from the town centre near an afternoon food market. If a single seater (210,000 kip) is available, 340,000 kip for a double seater/sleeper for either one or two person occupancy (Apr 2011). Chitprasom buses tend to be newer as KK has been around longer and have not updated their buses. When travelling from Pakse to Vientiane, take the KK buses as they will drop you off in the centre of Vientiane where their corporate office is, 2 min walk from the Cultural Hall, free of charge and save the 10,000 kip tuk-tuk ride into the city. All northbound buses, however, do stop at the Vientiane bus station, which is 9 km from the city centre. If you are coming from Don Det and have not bought a through ticket, you can either get off at the KK terminal and buy ticket there with KK, or wait and get dropped in the city, and buy your ticket for Chitprasom.

Warning: women have been groped on these buses. If this happens to you, tell everyone on the bus what happened, and advise the authorities.

Chong Mek border crossing from Thailand

If you don't have too much luggage, there are also vans to the border bus station for B100. After crossing into Laos, there is a big food center about 100 m from the border, where transport is waiting.

The Thai-Lao international bus between Pakse and Ubon Ratchani (126 km, 2-3 hr) is much more comfortable. Buses leave Pakse at 08:30 and 15:30, and from Ubon Ratchatani at 07:30 and 15:30, and will wait at the border for everyone to complete border formalities. In Pakse this bus will drop off at a bus station on Road 38 about 1 km east of the big Arawan Riverside Hotel. Agents in downtown Pakse book this for 90,000 kip, which includes a ride to the bus station. It may be a bit cheaper if you can get to the bus station yourself and buy a ticket there.

You can buy a Lao visa at the Chong Mek/Vang Tao crossing. However, when entering Thailand without a visa, most nationalities will get a free 15- to 30-day Thai visa stamped into their passport. Thailand only allows 2 overland entries per year, visa on arrival. Check beforehand for the current rules.

There appears to now be an official fee of 10,000 kip to exit Laos at this border. You will be issued a bill and directed to a payment window that issues you a receipt. They may allow you to pay 40 baht if you don't have 10,000 kip.

Get around

If you plan to do the Bolaven Plateau Loop, rent a motorbike or buy a bus ticket beware of the company Lao Adventure(r) Travel. The Lao woman in the office will try to scam you by selling tickets for non-existent buses. Apparently the office changes names quite often. On Google Maps you will find it as "Phouphieng Bolaven Travel Co.,Ltd" on the No. 12 Rd.

On foot While the immediate downtown area with the highest concentration of lodging and restaurants is walkable, many things outside are small city center are spread far apart. If you want to see the large open-air market or the movie theater and mall, it may be better to find another means of transportation.

By bicycle If your accommodation provides bicycles, this is a fast, easy way to get around town.

By tuk-tuk Tuk-tuks and motorbike taxis hang around the main road east of the bridge leading to the airport, as well as near the wet market and in the surrounding street blocks.

By scooter or motorbike Travel agencies, guesthouses, and some hotels in the center rent out scooters and motorbikes; common prices are 50,000–70,000 kip/day for a semi-automatic and 90,000–100,000 kip/day for an automatic one.

Like in Luang Prabang, most, if not all, will demand your passport as collateral while renting the bike; passport copies, cash deposits, etc. will not be accepted.

As of February 2026, tourists driving scooters/motorbikes have been pulled over by police in Pakse on a false pretext and forced to pay a bribe. Amounts seem to be around 200,000-400,000 kip. Try to see it as a humanitarian act as these policemen do not make very much money, a situation that has worsened with the ongoing depreciation of the Lao kip. In any event, don't let it ruin your day.

See

Ban Keosamphanh. The most beautiful green rice fields of Pakse, a former French army camp, and is home to the oldest market of Pakse.

Big Buddha. Built in 2011 adjacent to the Japanese bridge. 300 steps to the top, a great view of the river and city.

Dao Heuang Market. Many food stalls that are a feast to the eyes and nose.

Champasak Historical Heritage Museum.

Wat Luang. The biggest and most beautiful temple of Pakse, and home of Buddhist monk school. This is also the best place to see the monk alms giving rituals often seen in Luang Prabang.

Wat Phabad. The oldest and largest temple of Pakse, and believed to have Buddha's footprint, from which its name is derived.

Do

There's not much to do in Pakse. However, it is a good base for travel to the Bolaven Plateau and Si Phan Don.

Pakse is convenient as a staging point for archaeological trips in this part of Laos for two reasons:

to visit the Champasak Provincial Museum (listed in See above) as an introduction to local archaeology, and as an alternative to Champasak town as a jumping off point to see Wat Phou. Wat Phou is a UNESCO world heritage site and is the Lao counterpart to Angkor Wat/Angkor Thom. It's the finest of its genre outside Cambodia. It's possible to organise a day-trip to Wat Phou near Champasak, where you can also stay easily.

Rent a motorbike and head east towards Pak Song (Paxxong). The journey is pretty, and there are heaps of waterfalls to stop by near Pak Song. The Champasak Provincial Tourism Department puts out a few nice brochures including one on the Bolaven Plateau that details these including Tad Fane, Tad Champee, Tad Ueang, and Tad Pha Suam. Admission tends to be the same at every place, 5,000 kip per person, 3,000 kip for the bike.

The only cinema outside Vientiane, Major Complex (biggest chain from Thailand) is located at the top floor of the Friendship Mall. (known locally as the Fancy Mall) along with some Japanese brands. For Western/Hollywood films, the mall mostly shows movies dubbed in Thai and subtitled in Lao so make sure you check the schedule or ask the counter.

Cruises Various companies offer 2-3 day cruises starting and ending in Pakse, usually visiting Vat Phou and Khon Phapheng waterfall.

BolavenTours Travel agency in Pakse offering private transport and guided tours to the Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phou and Si Phan Don.

Buy

BCEL Bank. Changes money, cashes traveller's cheques and does cash advances on credit cards (a bad deal). There is an ATM in front of the building that accepts most foreign cards.

Lao Development Bank. Can exchange kip to US dollars, vital if travelling onward overland to Vietnam. Across the road, directly opposite the bank is an ATM which accepts international cards such as Cirrus. There is a limit of 700,000 kip per transaction, although you can withdraw several times. Those who are heading to Cambodia, gather a few riel to tide you over for your first few hours in Cambodia from the Lao Development Bank.

Morning Market. Lasts most of the day.

Eat

The majority of restaurants, over 50, are concentrated on the road which runs parallel to the Mekong, a five-minute walk from the main street). Most offer Lao or Vietnamese cuisine and some western dishes, have English menus, and are low-priced. Several restaurants catering to tourists are found near most of the accommodation along and nearby the main street. These are higher-priced but offer more variety in non-Lao food, such as Indian, Italian, Korean, burgers, steaks and pizza.

Dornsokdee Restaurant. A Sin Daat (cook yourself Lao BBQ) restaurant that also serves Thai, Vietnamese and some Western food. A Sin Daat is intended to be shared between two or more which makes for an economical option. Their fried springrolls are among the best in Paksé.

Lan Kham Noodle House. Serves enormous bowls of noodle soup with fresh herbs and salad. Recommended for breakfast

Pho Khemkong. The left shop in a block of two popular pho restaurants in Pakse.

Samlee's Garden. Garden restaurant, bar and guesthouse serving burgers, steaks, salads, Lao food, fusion dishes and vegetarian options, plus cocktails, wine, coffee, juices and fruit shakes. Guesthouse rooms with Mekong river views. Tours, motorbike rental, bus tickets and travel services available.

Drink

Cafe Sinouk. Cafe has free Wi-Fi for patrons and fancy frappe drinks, cakes and basic restaurant menu.

Delta Coffee. Offers Western food options such as pasta (20,000-30,000 kip), pizzas (35,000-50,000 kip), sandwiches, hamburgers (15,000-20,000 kip), and desserts baked on-site. Known also for good quality, locally sourced coffee. Prices are quite reasonable and the staff friendly.

Alcohol Enjoy the sunset with a Beerlao on the Mekong River. Go to the French bridge and then head south along the Mekong. After having passed the wat you will come to countless places to have a drink.

Le Panorama. The only rooftop restaurant in Pakse. On the 7th floor of Pakse Hotel, with a beautiful view over the town and the Mekong. Western, Asian and fusion dishes. Not cheap, but the view makes up for it, and probably the best pizza and Western dishes in town.

Sleep

Most hotels and guesthouses in Pakse can be found along the main street between the French Bridge and the roundabout or a short way into its side streets. Prices in Pakse are very high compared to the rest of the country; even higher than Vientiane. Expect to pay around double what you pay elsewhere in Laos and consider booking ahead.

Bedbugs seem to be common in cheaper accommodation in Pakse, especially in the 1918 Hostel (listing removed for this reason). Read the latest Google reviews before booking.

Lan Kham Hotel. Clean and surprisingly has an OK lounge downstairs along with large stacks of Time and Newsweek. Free Wi-Fi, but only at reception.

Sabaidy 2 Guesthouse. It's the only guesthouse in town with basic dorms. The shared showers have hot water. They also have basic rooms. 50,000-60,000 kip for the dorm and 80,000 kip for single or double rooms. Apparently being mentioned in the Lonely Planet has gone to their heads as the rooms are overpriced & they charge for any extras. They will not keep your bags while you visit the Bolaven plateau and suggest you leave them with whomever you rent a bike from. Laundry 10,000 kip/kg. Have a day tour to Bolaven at 180,000-250,000 kip depending on the number of persons.

Khamfong Sihavong Hotel. Simple furnished rooms with desk and air con. Prices Nov 2025: single room (double bed) 200k; small twin 220k; large twin 300k. Key deposit (returned after check-out) is 100k. No longer listed on OTA platforms but well priced.

Dao Vieng Hotel 2. Good clean, smallish rooms with air-con and cable TV. Wi-Fi in the lobby. Cannot be booked online.

Lao Chaleun Hotel. Staff are accommodating and single rooms, although tiny, are immaculately clean. Just don't rent a scooter from them; they are likely to break down.

Pakse Hotel. 6 types of rooms. A good hotel with nice rooms, good service, helpful staff and a lovely roof-top restaurant. Can arrange tours to nearby sights. Good included buffet breakfast. Non-guests can eat at the buffet for 100,000 kip.

Nicolas Homestay. A recommened homestay in the home of Nicolas and Khiao

Arawan Riverside Hotel. Good location, on the banks of the Mekong River with a beautiful view. Great if you feel like a bit of a splurge.

Champa Palace Hotel. The former royal palace is the most upmarket option in town. The hotel is nicknamed a "Thousand Doors and Windows" due to its sheer size and scale. That said, the cheapest rooms have no windows. Get to the breakfast buffet early because it does run out after 09:00