Praia.
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Overview

Praia — literally "Beach" in Portuguese — is Cape Verde's capital and busiest city. While it's maybe not comparable to a western metropolis, with a population of only about 159,050 (2017), one in four Cape Verdeans call the city home and the city is an important thoroughfare for international visitors to the archipelagic country.

Understand

Praia and its suburbs is by far the largest urban area in Cape Verde. The center of the city lies on a plateau (port. Platô) overlooking the bay to the southeast and the airport lies a few kilometers to the northeast. The port is important for the export of agricultural products and seafood, which besides tourism is the most important industry in the country.

Praia is located in the southern end of Santiago Island and has year round good weather. The city is divided into various small unofficial districts, the most important ones being, Platô (city center), Achada Santo Antonio, Palmarejo, Fazenda, Achada Grande, Varzea, Safende, Sucupira (bazaar area), Calbeciera, Terra Branca, Vila Nova, Achadinha, Bairro, Prainha, Monte Vermelho, Achada Mato, Achada Sao Felipe, and other smaller ones. Most part of the city are residential areas, so probably not worth visiting in itself, but worth a half-day exploration if you are passing through to another destination.

The Cape Verdean escudo is denoted "", the same sign that is used by dollars and pesos around the world.

History Settlement in Praia started in 1615. Back then the beach was known as Praia de Gamboa and the village below Santa Maria. Its natural harbour was a popular alternative to the one in Cidade Velha (then known as Ribeira Grande) with its high harbour fees. Santa Maria became the capital of the region in 1770, and with this started the growth of the city. Much of the historical old town dates from this time.

The plateau was the focus for development and services at this time. After independence from Portugal in 1975 the city has rapidly grown in all directions, and the population has quadrupled.

The weather is warm and pleasant around the year. The climate is classified as mild desert, and daytime highs are above +25°C throughout the year. Some rain occurs from August to October, but much less than what's experienced in places with tropical monsoon climate. The rainiest month, August, averages eight rainy days and just under 100 mm of rain.

Get in

There is one bus line that serves the airport but it’s better to just take a taxi since there is actually only one or two buses that serves this line.

By boat You can also enter the city through the port. There are ferry boats that have irregular service to and from the islands of Maio, Boavista, Sal and Sao Nicolau, and more regular and scheduled service to and from Sao Vicente and Fogo.

Boat passengers arrive in . As of 2014, there were regular ferries from Fogo (4 hours) and Brava (just 40 min from Fogo). However, the sea is often rough and will probably make you seasick; flying is much more comfortable. Porto de Praia is also where you will land if you're a cruise passenger.

Get around

The city has countless bus stops, and taxis are everywhere waiting for customers. By bus There are two main bus companies that serve the city, Moura Company and Sol Atlantico. Each route has their own numbers. The main lines are from Safende to Achada Santo Antonio, Vila Nova to Achada Santo Antonio, Calbeceira to Palmarejo, Pensamento to Terra Branca, Achada Grande to Achada Santo Antonio, Sao Felipe to Plateau, Ponta D'Agua to Plateau,Achada Mato to Palmarejo.

By taxi When it comes to taxis you should be careful with illegal taxis that sometimes roam around and might rip you off. Just be careful and always use taxis that have a taximeter, so that they don’t overcharge you.

By foot The lack of an official map makes the city a little hard to navigate, especially since large parts still lack proper street names and house numbers. Fortunately, most streets in the city center and in the more important parts of the city do have names and numbers and most people are friendly and will give you directions. Walking between the different districts is not recommended, especially since most of the city's sidewalks are made out of loose cobblestone that make it difficult to walk. Also keep in mind that this town is full of hills that can be tiring to walk. However, if you want to have a good cardio-workout, try it.

A bike can be a good way of getting around both Praia and the island itself. The problem is that bike rentals are sparse, so if you're looking forward to a bike vacation, you may need to bring your own.

By rental car Rental cars can be found mainly at the airport, but with the boom of tourism some downtown locations have opened as well.

Europcar. Additionally a rental store at Hotel Pestana Trópico.

See

A large part of the sights are located at the plateau. The old city wall complete with the old cannons protected it from attackers arriving by sea. The governmental district is in the southern part of town.

Praia town hall. Built in neoclassicist style with a square central tower, the town hall is one of the finest examples of colonial architecture around. It's still in use. When the doors are open, make sure to have a look inside. There's even some information on the building's history available for visitors.

Praia Cathedral. The city's cathedral was constructed in 1902 in classicist style.

Supreme Court. The supreme court is a pretty building at the Praça Alexandre Albuquerque. It may be possible to visit it on the inside too.

Presidential Palace. Built in the late 19th century as the residence of the Portuguese governor, nowadays it is the presidential palace. It has lately been renovated with financial help from China. Other governmental buildings are located nearby.

Quartel Jaime Mota. Old barracks next to the presidential palace, have seen better days.

Igreja do Nazareno. A Protestant church.

Palácio da Assembleia. The national assembly of Cape Verde.

Praça Alexandre Albuquerque. A square in the central old town. Albuquerque was a governor who was passionate about card playing; therefore, each of the four corners of the square is marked by a suit.

Museu Etnográfico. Located in a historic building in the old town, this museum presents the history of the Cape Verdean people through objects of everyday life.

Fundação Amílcar Cabral. Cultural centre dedicated to the revolutionary leader Amílcar Cabral (1924-73). Notable for its murals.

Estado da Varzea. The city's football stadium seating 10,000 persons.

In addition, the markets listed below in the Buy section are worth visiting for the experience.

Praia de Gamboa. Gamboa beach, which gave the city its name. However, it's not suitable for swimming.

Ilhéu de Santa Maria. A small island just outside the harbour. Formerly people with leprosy were quarantined on the island; Chinese businessmen are planning to set up a casino here.

Cruz do Papa. A large cross; from where it stands, there's also a nice view over Quebra Canela beach.

Diogo Gomes monument. A monument dedicated to Diogo Gomes, the explorer of the islands. It is located at the south of the plateau, and there are great views from there to Praia do Gamboa and Ilhéu de Santa Maria.

Do

Events Cape Verdeans like to party, and there are many events throughout the year. The largest of them is the carnival, taking place in the beginning of the year as elsewhere in the Catholic world. With its procession and dances it is not too dissimilar to the Brazilian version, but here the processions aren't strictly arranged by samba schools but rather a spontaneous and informal event where everyone can partake.

Other religious festivals (for example honoring a saint) are also reminiscent of the carnival, starting with a mass and continuing as a street festival.

Activities Reportedly having some of the best waves in the world, Praia is a good destination for surfing and water skiing. If you are a beginner, hotels often have courses in these activities. If you want to relax instead, head to some of the beaches in and around Praia. is probably the most popular among locals and visitors alike. Other beaches are , (not suitable for swimming) and .

Buy

There are several markets in Praia. Even if you don't intend to buy anything, it's worth a visit if you want to experience an African market. A great souvenir is one of the patterned, colourful cloths made in the countryside.

Mercado Municipal. Food and artisanal objects for sale from the early morning. It's a vibrant, colourful place worth visiting for every visitor, except that it's not a good place if you suffer from claustrophobia as it can get pretty crammed. Also, watch out for pickpockets.

Mercado de Sucupira. Another market to visit; the same precautions apply.

Eat

Sovaco de Cobra. Down-to-earth restaurant popular among locals.

Café Sofia. A great place to eat local food and watch the world go by. Popular among expats and the local chess playing community.

Restaurante Punto D'Incontro. Italian and Cape Verdean cuisine.

Restaurante Panorama. In the city centre at the Hotel Felicidade. Open all day. Their buffet is popular with businesspeople.

Restaurante Flor de Liz. Cap Verdean cuisine, wide menu and large servings.

Churrasqueira Dragoeira. Famous for its BBQ chicken, this is also a good place to meet locals.

Churrasqueira Benfica. Brazilian-style barbecue restaurant.

Beramar Grill. Specialising in fish, famous for tuna and bacalao on white wine.

Restaurante Gamboa. African cuisine and large servings. They also have a nice selection of local wines. Friendly service.

O Poeta. Next to the Portuguese embassy with a good view of the city, O Poeta is popular among the upper class and tourists. House speciality is barbecued squid with vegetables and cheese.

Restaurante Avis. Reportedly good food in the city centre, but the service is slow as usual in Cape Verde. Occasionally live music.

Drink

You won't find an abundance of nightspots in Praia.

Bar “Belavista”. Located in the Hotel Praia Mar complex.

Quintal da Música. Located on the plateau, here you can hear national and traditional music, plus eat.

Sleep

Residencial Paraíso. B&B in the Plateau district. Free Wi-Fi.

Morabeza Kriol Hostel. Probably the only dorm-beds in Praia. About fifteen minutes from Plató, but close to much of Praia's nightlife. Pluses include free lockers, cleanliness, beers for sale and fast Wi-Fi. However, it does lack a good common area and the kitchen facilities are somewhat limited.

Plateau Bedroom & Chambre. Very orange.

Perola Hotel. Wi-Fi available in the common areas, laundry service, private parking.

Hotel Santa Maria. Has a panoramic terrace with good views.

Syd's Guesthouse and Café. Bright, cheery place with wifi and free appetizing breakfast close to some embassies and restaurants.

Hotel Cesaria. Free breakfast on rooftop terrace, wifi, a/c, pretty clean, nice buffet spread in restaurant with bar, reliable paid pick-up service from the airport, sells and activates SIM cards.

Sol Hotel. Free breakfast and wifi, some good views from rooms higher up.

Praia's high-end options are south of the main town in the area of Prainha.

Pestana Trópico. 10 min to centre of the Praia. 5 km from the airport. Comfortable rooms with free Wi-Fi. The hotel also has a pool, fitness center and private parking.

Oásis Atlântico Praiamar. Decrepit infrastructure, outrageously overpriced. Rooms have kingsize beds and are equipped with cable tv, minibar and hairdryer.