Salalah.
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Overview

Salalah is the capital city of Oman's southern Dhofar region. It is the second largest city in the Sultanate, and has the distinction of being the Sultan Qaboos' birthplace. For most visitors, Salalah is the gateway to Oman’s most southerly governate of Dhofar – a historically independent, and culturally and ecologically unique region.

Understand

As the traditional regional capital, the city’s history stretches back two millennia, when, thanks to its strategic location, it was an important stop on the frankincense and silk trading routes. In the 19th century the region was incorporated into the Sultanate of Muscat and Oman, and Salalah served as the country’s capital from 1932 until the accession of Sultan Qaboos in 1970, who relocated the capital to Muscat. Salalah was the Sultan’s birthplace in 1940, and his mother was a member of a prominent regional Jebbali tribe; to this day the Sultan maintains close ties to the city.

Today Salalah is still known for the cultivation and trade of frankincense (albeit now on a smaller scale), and is famous for its summer khareef (monsoon) and annual Salalah Festival, when visitors flock to the region to escape the blazing hot temperatures elsewhere on the Arabian peninsula. As lodging and eating establishments outside the city are scarce, it serves as a useful and interesting base for travellers wanting to explore the wider area at any time of year.

Read Maria Dekeersmaeker, The DNA of Salalah, Dhofar: A Tourist Guide. Written by a Belgian journalist based in Salalah, this unusual book is a treasure trove of facts and history, organized thematically.

Climate Most visitors come to Salalah during July and August to enjoy the annual khareef, when the nearby wadis are full of water. Occasionally streets flood, and ocean currents are too strong for swimming or diving. The crowds leave in September along with the rains, but the vegetation is still green, and hotel prices have started to come down.

Diving is only possible during the dry season, from October to the end of May, and this is also the optimal time for bird watching. May and especially June are the hottest months of the year, with humidity steadily increasing until the rains bring relief again in late June or early July.

Get in

Oman Air. Flies from Muscat to Salalah at least three times a day, with a flight time of 1hr 30min. Operates direct international flights from Dubai W-Sa, with a flight time of some two hours, as well as to Jeddah Th and Sa, with a flight time of 2hr 50min.

Air Arabia. Flies from Sharjah on Su M W Th, with a flight time 1hr 45min.

Qatar Airways. Operates direct flights from Doha 3 times daily, with a flight time of 2hr 10min.

Driving to Salalah from Muscat takes roughly 12 hours, and can either be an amazing and memorable experience, or a very uncomfortable one depending on what kind of traveller you are. The first 5 hours are very scenic, as you pass Rusayl, Nizwa and other small towns. However, it's barren desert and oil fields for most of the remainder of the trip, with the only larger settlements along this stretch being Haima and Thumrait just one hour before Salalah.

Travelling at night is usually better than driving in the heat of day (arriving in Salalah at night is a must, as the city lights from the high-altitude entry point are gorgeous). Watch out for renegade dunes on the way. There are several stops along the way for food, drinks, a cigarette break, or nature calls – you should take every opportunity to stop, as there might not be another one for many more kilometres. As of 2019, many petrol stations do not accept credit cards, so you should have cash with you. Lodging on the road is not good; plan your trip so you do not have to sleep on the road.

ONTC Bus Station. Oman National Transport Company runs buses to/from the Ruwi station in Muscat three times daily, with the trip lasting 12 hours.

By boat There is at least one operator in Muscat that will charter you to Salalah.

Cruise ships stop regularly at the commercial , west of the city. Shuttle buses transport visitors from the ship to the port entrance, and taxis are also available. Visitors need to bring only their cruise boarding pass and their Tourist Entry Permit.

Get around

On foot It is possible to explore parts of Salalah on foot, as most places of interest are close to each other. During warmer times of year, though, walking may not be the best idea. By taxi The usual unmetered Omani taxis operate here. In 2021, a ride within the city was 1 rial.

By car If you hire a car, 2WD cars are adequate for most sights within Salalah itself. Outside of Salalah, however, many places of tourist interest lie off road, and SUVs are recommended particularly during the khareef season because of slippery terrain. Book your car well in advance if you plan to visit during this peak period, as rental agencies often run out of vehicles.

See

The old city is confined to the area called Al Haffa (Hafah), on the seafront.

Al Baleed Archeological Park. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, these extensive ruins were once the 12th-century trading port of Zafar, visited by Marco Polo in 1285.

Museum of Frankincense Land. This excellent museum has displays on the history of the port and of the region.

Salalah Museum. This museum houses an eclectic collection, with sections devoted to regional geology and history. There is also a permanent display of Wilfred Thesiger's photographs.

Burj an-Nadha. The clocktower may not be a sky-scraper but it is indeed the icon of Salalah, featured in the coat of arms of Dhofar Governate. The tower looks stunning during nights due to the colorful light display.

Tomb of Nabi Umran. Umran (Imran) was a local Arab prophet, believed by some to have been the father of the Virgin Mary, and believed by others to have been the father of Moses. The sarcophagus is 33 m long. Visitors should remove their shoes before entering, and women should cover their heads with a scarf.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Completed in 2009, this mosque can accommodate 14,000 people. Conservative dress required; women must have their ankles, wrists and hair covered.

Sultan Qaboos Palace. Sultan Qaboos was born in a fortress at this location, which is now the grounds for a modern palace. It is not open to the public, but tourists may photograph it from the outside.

Traditional Dhofari houses. To see some older Yemeni-style architecture, drive east on Al Bahri Street along the beach.

Footprint of Prophet Saleh's Camel. A shrine housing the footprint of an enormous camel in the bedrock. According to the Quran, the camel was said to have appeared from nearby mountains as a miracle, yet was killed three days later by unbelievers who refused to recognize the Prophet Saleh. In punishment a severe earthquake was said to have destroyed the entire city and its inhabitants. As in other religious sites, visitors are requested to remove their shoes and women should cover their hair.

Gun Souq. A small informal open-air market for vendors selling all types of weapons, from antique rifles to traditional knives and daggers. Best in the early morning.

Do

Salalah Tourism Festival. Held annually during the khareef period, this festival celebrates Dhofari culture and traditions with food, music, and entertainment.

Khawr Salalah. Avid birdwatchers can find many species of birds within the city itself, as this lagoon is noted for attracting flamingos, ospreys, and many migratory birds. Bring your binoculars.

Extra Divers Salalah. Organizes guided tours for diving and snorkeling, and conducts a full range of PADI courses. Most of their dives take place outside of Mirbat, where they also have a dive centre. The centre is closed during the khareef from the end of May until 1 October.

SubAqua Dive Center. Offers full dive packages in the waters by Salalah as well as by Mirbat. Offers PADI courses.

Dhofar Waves Equestrian Club. Offers beach and sunset rides. It is a little bit difficult to find, so use Google Maps or let them pick you up.

Talk

Most residents speak some English, but if you know a bit of Arabic and Malayalam then conversation will be much easier.

Buy

Frankincense is the souvenir purchase in Salalah, and only visitors who avoid shopping will not be offered some. Frankincense is available in several different grades differentiated by colour, the lightest considered to be the highest quality and the costliest. Hand-crafted incense burners made of local Dhofari clay are also good purchases. Myrrh is relatively easy to find as well, as are the myriad Omani perfumes on offer throughout the country. You can also buy a khanjar, the traditional Omani dagger.

Handicraft Souq. A good place to pick up traditional hand-crafted items.

Souq Al Hafa. Souq Al Hafa (marketplace) is the best place for frankincense and incense burners, and a wide range of other collectibles including handicrafts and souvenirs. Haggling is necessary, or alternatively have a local so you know you are buying genuine goods. Payment can be made in Omani rials, euros, or dollars.

Family Book Shop. Has books in English and Arabic, and a good selection of maps.

Goal Sports. Has outdoor sporting goods, including camping supplies.

Al Isteqrar Hypermarket. Groceries are on the ground floor, and a food court upstairs.

Lulu Hypermarket. A branch of the UAE chain. Good for picnic supplies or camping gear.

Lulu Supermarket. More centrally located than Lulu Hypermarket (see listing above), but with a much smaller deli and no camping gear.

Spinney's. Small supermarket with international food.

Eat

If you decide to visit places outside Salalah city (good advice for traveling anywhere in Oman), remember to carry some food packed for emergencies (fruits, fruit juices, sandwiches recommended) as there are few restaurants outside the city. Always carry several bottles of drinking water since you may not find any store on the highways. There is, however, a delightful ocean-side cafe on the way to Mughsayl and the tidal geyser there.

Al Kutaini Restaurant. Offers a wide range of continental dishes but specialize in Pakistani cuisine.

Annapoorna Restaurant. A traditional South Indian Restaurant serving only vegetarian food.

Bin Ateeq. Part of a small chain of Omani restaurants, and a good place for Omani food.

Bin Ateeq. A second branch of the popular Omani restaurant.

Cascade Tandoori Restaurant. Offers a large range of Indian dishes, particularly well-known for their vindaloo.

Chinese Cascade. Chinese restaurant offering decent food. No buffet.

Chopsticks. Indian-styled Chinese restaurant with decent food. No buffet.

Hassan Bin Thabit Restaurant. Serves Arabic, Chinese, European and Indian cuisines.

KFC. American fried chicken, sit-down restaurant and drive-through.

Khareef Salalah Restaurant. A unit of Hassan Bin Thabit Kitchens, with a varied international menu.

Pizza Hut. Always an option for any Americans wanting a taste of home, delivery available.

Baalbeck Lebanese Restaurant. A small family restaurant serving very good Lebanese food. Has excellent hummus, tum and shwarmas.

Lebanese House Restaurant. 1 drink each). Delivery available.

Oasis Club. This restaurant is also fully licensed. Take away and delivery available.

Al Ajwa. Offers Pakistani and Hyderbadi food. No buffet.

Splurge The restaurants in the Hilton, Crowne Plaza, and Juweira Boutique hotels offer high-end dining services, with both à la carte and buffet options. For romantic dining, beach pavilions can be reserved at both the Hilton and Juweira Boutique.

Drink

Alcohol for non-Muslim visitors is available at high end hotels like Oasis Club near the port, as well as at the bars in the Crowne Plaza, Hilton, and Juweira Boutique hotels.

For a refreshing drink, stop at any of the many roadside vendors selling fresh coconut. They will lop the top off a green coconut for you for 200-300 baizas.

Sleep

During the annual khareef from July-September the population of Salalah balloons with visitors from elsewhere in Oman and the Persian Gulf, so if you plan to visit during this time it is essential to make reservations well in advance.

Al Hanaa Hotel. Within walking distance of downtown.

Arabian Sea Villas. An Omani-Belgian enterprise, adjacent to the coconut groves.

Dhofar Hotel. The hotel offers basic accommodation at very affordable prices. Service is very friendly and hotel is reasonably clean.

Haffah House. Old rooms, basic but decent. Very close to the airport and in the centre of the city so it's easy to reach any place you want to get to, reasonable swimming pool, gym and tennis courts. Banking and rent a car services are available in the same building.

Hamdan Plaza Hotel. Free breakfast with wi-fi.

Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah. A better alternative for luxury accommodation as the property is much larger than the Hilton and more importantly it is close to the city centre.

Hilton Salalah. A popular choice for European visitors. It is roughly 12 km outside the city and runs a daily shuttle service to and from the Gold Souq. However, the hotel cannot really be recommended as the service is appalling and a general sense of "the inmates running the asylum" pervades.

Juweira Boutique Hotel. From Juweira you can get a clear view of the artificial 'Juweira Island' which is spectacularly illuminated during night. There are many wonderful cafes, lounges and restaurants in Juweira. There is also a fashion boutique and a children's play area.

Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara. A beach resort providing a myriad of activities including tennis, volleyball, and badminton courts, petanque, and beach football.