Salta.
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Overview

Salta is the capital of the province of Salta, up in the mountains in northern Argentina. Salta is typically visited as a launching point for the nature and small towns in the region, but has its own charms and sights worth seeing too.

Understand

Salta enjoys 4 distinct seasons and is known for having very pleasant weather. Summers are warm with frequent thunderstorms and cloudy weather. Daytime highs are around 26 to 28°C (79 to 82°F) with mild, pleasant nights at around 15 or 16°C (59 or 61°F). Fall brings pleasant weather during the day with cool nights. In winter, conditions are dry with mild days followed by cold nights. Frosts are common although snowfall is rare.

Salta Travel website The tourist information office at Caseros 711 is helpful, it's only a block or two from the main plaza. There is a book shop on Buenos Aires street in the block south of the plaza that sells maps.

Get in

Aerolíneas Argentinas office. The airport is served by Aerolineas Argentinas, Flybondi, JetSmart with flights from Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Puerto Iguazu, and Rosario. Aerolineas Argentinas has a weekly flight from São Paulo, Panair has two weekly flights from Asunción, and LATAM operates 5 weekly flights from Lima. Copa Airlines operate flights from Panama City

Bus 8A runs between the airport and the bus terminal downtown (the airport bus stop is about a half-kilometer from the terminal; walk along the street that the cars are taking to leave the airport, and you'll get to it). A bus card (SAETA) is required. Payment by debit card is also accepted.

Taxis are reliable and use the meter. Drivers wait just outside of arrivals. Uber and Didi are other reliable options.

By bus There are connections to all major cities in Argentina. The is just one block from Parque San Martín, or 8 blocks from the main plaza.

Buenos Aires 19 hours. Formosa 13 hours advertised but took 16 hours. The FlechaBus is semi-cama (sleep in aircraft cattle-class seats). The bus stops at every town along the road. You will receive a packet of two biscuits on departure and unless you know the system you will not get a chance to buy food on the trip so buy something before boarding the bus. There is a toilet on board and is reasonably clean for the whole journey. The bus departs Formosa at 17:10 daily. Mendoza 18 hours - semi-cama (December 2017) From Jujuy it's possible to take a combi (shared taxi). Take care. "Combis" are not legal transportation.

While intercity trains are slowly making a comeback in Argentina, they have not reached Salta yet. Trenes Argentinos operates a limited commuter service from the nearby city of General Güemes and westwards to Campo Quijano via Rosario de Lerma.

Get around

Taxis are available. Remis are not cheaper.

A transit card is required for the buses, but if you don't have one, you can just get on and ask another passenger if you can give them the cash and swipe their card. This is common in Salta and the driver and passengers will be unfazed. Unlike many cities in Argentina, SUBE cards do not work here.

See

Cabildo Histórico de Salta. The old town hall of 1783 with its beautiful colonnaded exterior is one of the colonial buildings which helps make the main plaza one of the finest in Argentina. It is now one of three buildings housing the Museo Histórico del Norte. The capitulary room with its linked timber chairs where the Governor's advisors sat has had an outsized place in Argentinian history. Other exhibits showcase the history of the region from prehistoric times to the mid-20th century. Spanish text only.

Cerro San Bernardo. 1,458 m above sea level (258 m above the city) hill. From Parque San Martin, a cable car goes to the summit, offering spectacular views of the city and its surroundings. At the summit there is a second cable car to Aladelta but it is of little interest. A popular option is to take the cable car to the summit and walk down, alternatively you can walk up and down taking the 1,070 steps leaving from the statue of Güemes a little bit north of the cable car station. Taxis are also an option. From the hill the view of the city is excellent but the bonus is the landscaping which has made it a tranquil setting. A vast water feature has been built with many interesting features. This a great mini-escape from the city when it is clear, especially on a hot day as it is shady and cool. The last car to the summit is 19:00 and the last return is 19:30 so best to get up there by say 17:30 to allow a couple of hours before returning.

MAAM Museum. Exhibits the discovery of the three Inca "Llullaillaco Children" found frozen at the peak of Mount Llullaillaco. Many museums are interesting but few have the impact of this one. The museum is small and its focus is the three children "given to the mountain" by the Inca. One leaves the museum wondering how a society could develop such belief systems, and whether the mummified bodies should be on display at all.

Iglesia San Francisco. Beautiful 1796 red and ivory Basilica with a remarkable tower.

Museo Antropológico. Offers a very interesting insight into various indigenous cultures, which have flourished throughout the centuries in this part of Argentina. Free

Pajcha. A fantastic museum in Salta and definitely worth a look.It is called "Pajcha" and is a collection of traditional art, textiles, icons and jewelry from all over South and Central America. It is fascinating. The enthusiasm is palpable and fantastic learning from a knowledgeable source. They know everything because they had personally collected everything in the museum. Permanently closed.

Museo El Tribuno Guillermo Pajarito Velarde. Wonderful small house-museum that is a tribute to Velarde (1895-1965), who was a lawyer and banker, but more important a Bohemian patron of arts, especially tango, when it was still not accepted by society in Salta. The guide does a great job of presenting the colorful tales. She only speaks Spanish, but if you do not understand Spanish, she will just ask one of the other guests to translate to English.

Museum of President Jose Evaristo Uriburu. This is the house where President Uriburu was born and lived as a child. Jose Uriburu was president for only a few years but had a distinguished career both before and after his presidency as a jurist, diplomat and senator. The museum is small and does not take long to visit. It is presented as a home with household items and furnishings of the Uriburu family. This museum is one of the three Museums of the North.

Explore Salta Museum Complex. This museum is in the same building as the tourist information centre but is accessed by Peotonal Florida rather than Caseros. The museum presents a history of Salta with an emphasis on cultural heritage. There are many interactive displays which are fun although the best bit might well be the section dedicated to the music of Salta. You could spend hours listening to all manner of music from classical to Salta's modern rock bands.

Do

Horse Riding: It can last from a couple of hours to several days. There are several options which include snacks, accommodation in country houses or camps, and typical foods. This service was created to show you the real “Gaucho” life. Cycling: Bicycle rides around the city or through a mountain track, perfectly designed for adventurers. Motorcycling: Motorcycle rides with several option according to each particular need, always in the company of a qualified guide for each ride. It is an international high-quality product that brings together two passions: motorcycling and sightseeing. Trekking: There are several options: short strolls around our bordering mountains or several days in the region, with different degrees of difficulty. Mountain climbing: The region offers a great variety of mountains and volcanoes with elevations between 3,500 and 6,740 m). Require previous experience, equipment, and logistics.

Tren a las Nubes. As the name tells, it is a day trip by train up in the mountains to La Povorilla at 4,220 m over the sea level. The trip takes a whole day, leaving Salta at 07:15 and returning between 23:00 and 00:00. The dining car on the train and the bar car are a bit expensive but you are allowed to bring your own food. A breakfast and afternoon snack is included. Coca leaf tea helps prevent altitude sickness and coca leaves are provided by the train staff. There are nurses on board and oxygen for those who suffer ill effects from the altitude. The trip is long and the seats are somewhat cramped for leg space but generally the services and staff are excellent. The experience is fantastic as the scenery is rugged and variable with a feast for the eyes at every turn. The engineering of the track was a masterpiece in its day and continues to impress decades later.

Buy

There are a number of car rental agencies but the locally based agencies' CBD branches are only open 5½ days per week. Hertz is open until 21:00 daily. Its office staff and car yard staff are very helpful and the vehicles are in excellent condition but Hertz is said to lack a sense of humor when it comes to damage so drive carefully!

There are several travel agencies that can help you with your trip around the region. They are about 4 to 5 blocks south of the main square, around Buenos Aires Road. Tours usually last all day from 07:00-21:00 and stop at a restaurant for lunch. Shop around as prices differ considerably between operators, even if they are actually consolidated into the same tour. Tours are sold as bilingual (Spanish and English) although some guides will drift towards Spanish especially if most of the participants are fluent.

Balcarce Arts and Crafts Fair. Each Sunday the main nightclubbing street, Balcarce, is closed to traffic all day for a very good arts and crafts fair featuring the work of local artists and craftsmen of all types.

El Rincon del Carpincho. A very small craft shop a little away from the main tourist area but the prices are significantly lower than the prices you will pay around Plaza 9 de Julio. Hand crafted leather and knives as well as leather goods.

Vea Supermarket. fairly large supermarket close to the main plaza

Eat

El Buen Gusto Empanadas. Go very local with this hidden gem for empanadas. A very traditional small, simple restaurant, that offers the best empanadas in Salta. You should call in advance to order the food (before 21:00) since they cook a limited number of empanadas.

La Céfira. They serve very nice pastas and sauces.

By Doña Lola. Traditional Salteñan food in a very nicely restored old house which also contains a small museum of local artifacts.

Doña Salta. The restaurant is in an old building with lots of exposed brick and an open kitchen. The meat and wine are top-shelf. Excellent service and a Spanish ambiance.

El Palacio Pizza y Empanadas. The cheesy sign above the entrance should come down, this place is well above the standard of that nasty sign. The only thing missing is the view of rolling greens hills from the windows, as you are served this wonderful Argentinian food. Two flavorful Saltinian empanadas, a litre of Salta's finest beer, a basket full of fresh bread, tin full of olive oil, a slightly overdone veal steak, gorgeous green salad.

El Solar del Convento. Serves champagne while you choose from the menu. Inexpensive yet elegant dining with excellent steaks and wines.

Viejo Jack I Parrilla. Incredible food, low prices, and friendly service. Portions are huge: main (meat) courses are designed to shared. Try the picaña, you won't be sorry.

Fili Helados. Delicious ice cream, sorbet, and other frozen treats.

Cafe Van Gogh. Americano breakfast with coffee, scrambled eggs with cheese, toasts, croissants, ham, juice and fruit salad; or a 3-course menu of the day plus a soft drink . Open everyday, good service. Their Wifi is faster than your hostel's.

Vinoteca Cafayate Wines. This is really a wine bar but it has light meals as well. If you go there for a meal you will probably drink more than you eat but it will be fun. One of the options available is a light tasting meal with three wines chosen by the owner (who is a wine maker) and it's great.

Panaderia Cafeteria Pan Pan. This is an old style bakery, everything made on the premises with tables for lunch. The limonade is home made and great.

Aires Caseros. Aires Caseros offers a share plate of the local dishes. A great introduction to North Andean food e.g. tamale, baked cheese dishes and pumpkin stew served in the pumpkin shell. But it might spoil you a bit because the local food is not always as interesting as this.

Unnamed Restaurant. This eating spot calls itself Restaurant in its big triangular sign but otherwise is unnamed. It's a cafe for the locals and has marvellous empanadas home made by the staff in the eating area. The piquante sauce is the best.

Drink

Nightlife is centred on the north end of Balcarce St, in the train station zone.

The local beer "Salta" is comparable in quality to other Argentine beers and is similarly priced. A 1-L bottle at a restaurant on Plaza 9 de Julio will come with a small serving of chips and or peanuts.

A bottle of local whisky at a supermarket is inexpensive and is equal to reasonable Scotch whisky. All Scotch whisky is cheap at the supermercado.

Torrontes. This place is really a restaurant but they don't mind if you sit in the back garden on a sunny day and drink a couple of bottles of wine (which is good).

Sleep

Hotel Pachá Anexo. Upbeat hostel and by the entertainment zone. Complete breakfast included in all categories, and infusion drinks.

Hostel 7 Duendes. Nice, helpful staff with free Internet and a basic breakfast. Cosy backgarden and a friendly atmosphere will welcome you right next to Parque San Martín, close to the centre and the bus terminal.

Hotel Florida. Down the block from the central market and four blocks from the central square. One of the best values in town. Speedy Wi-Fi (only reaches to the 2nd floor), friendly staff, strong hot showers. Many rooms have balconies, all have cable TV. Breakfast is simple and small, but brought to the room.

Hotel Marilian. Hotel with outdoor pool and buffet breakfast.

Las Rejas B&B. Offers hostel accommodation as well as B&B. Very friendly, many amenities including travel desk. Free Internet.

Terra Oculta. Popular backpackers spot and a good place to meet fellow travellers. It has all the usually services and there is a weekly barbeque and a bar. Wi-Fi and a computer for Internet. Small breakfast included.

Hostal Prisamata. Fantastic hostel that punches above its weight in cleanliness and ambience.

Hotel Colonial. One of Salta's most traditional hotels. Breakfast and Wi-Fi included.

Hotel Posada del Sol. Simple and clean.

Wilson Hotel. The hotel's exterior is not exciting but is still a real hotel with a 24 hour desk, friendly reception and housekeeping staff and light breakfast provided. The rooms can offer plenty of space and can be made up according to guests' requests within minutes.

Hotel de la Linda. Good looking foyer, water feature and courtyard. Breakfast supplied is excellent and includes scrambled eggs if you wish. Caters mainly to international tourists. Some of the rooms only have internal windows so check when you are booking.

Terraza de la Usina. This is a hotel in one of the Salta's fashionable two storey homes. Every effort has been made to preserve the interior. The small kitchen/dining room has coffee and is available if you wish to prepare your own breakfast. This is a charming spot that looks if anything even better than the photos on the booking sites.