San Pedro de Atacama.
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Overview

San Pedro de Atacama is a town of 3,899 (2012) in Northern Chile. San Pedro is a very popular destination among Chilean tourists and international visitors looking for a desert experience and a stepping stone to the amazing landscapes around it. Most attractions are part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve, perhaps Chile's most varied and amazing national park.

Despite its name and tourism industry claims, San Pedro is not "in the heart of" the Atacama Desert (the world's driest desert outside Antarctica), but in a transition zone between the desert's core and the high Andes. In fact, San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings get more than five times the annual rainfall of many other cities in northern Chile, such as Calama, Antofagasta, Iquique, and Arica. However, it is true that several of the Atacama Desert's astronomical observatories are located in San Pedro's general area.

Understand

Still, it's a fairly expensive location, as it's one of Chile's three most popular destinations, along with Torres del Paine and Easter Island.

San Pedro vs. Uyuni As many people head for San Pedro to continue their travel into Bolivia doing the popular Salar de Uyuni tour, it is important to note that many sights found around San Pedro have similar equivalents on the Bolivian site. Hence, instead of paying twice, it is worth thinking about skipping some tours offered in San Pedro and saving the money. This is also what many travellers that did both countries agree with and recommend to other. In fact, the sights along the Salar de Uyuni tour are equally or even more beautiful and impressive than what can be found around San Pedro, e.g. 1) Geysers del Tatio: 2 hr from the border you will visit a smaller but much more versatile site with mud pools, loud steams and geysers, and shortly after that a nice warm thermal pool with magnificent views which easily tops the semi-warm thermal pool at the Geysers del Tatio. And you do not have to get up at 5, freeze your bottom off, and get hassled along the way due to the limited time. 2) Lagunas Altiplanicas: Already the first stop after the border at the Laguna Verde (or the Lagunas on the second day) and the Laguna Colorado at the end of the first day top this tour, with much more flamingos and more versatile views, not to mention the value of Salar de Uyuni over Laguna Chaxa. 3) Astronomic tour: This can easily be realised in the middle of nowhere on the Salar de Uyuni tour with no lights whatsoever around. 4) Salar Tata: The diversity of the sights along the Salar de Uyuni tour is immense and also covers this tour.

Nevertheless, the Valle de la Luna is a must when in San Pedro and cannot be skipped for anything along the Salar de Uyuni tour. Likewise, the Laguna Cejar, and a bicycle, hiking or sandboarding tour around San Pedro are not substitutable. Furthermore note that the tours in San Pedro are a good way to acclimatise against altitude sickness. The Salar de Uyuni tour almost touches the 5,000-m mark. So, the Piedra Rojas tour for instant might actually be a good thing, because at the Lagunas Miscanti and Miñiques you will cross the 4,200-m mark.

Get in

Several buses per day connect the town with Calama (see Calama#Get in for schedules), operated by TurBus, KTUR, Frontera del Norte, Atacama 2000, and Intertrans. Other buses like TurBus travel also from Antofagasta (4 hr, 9,000 pesos), Iquique, Arica (12 hr, 22,000 pesos), and Santiago. It is best and cheaper to transfer in Calama, because it is easy to get there with regular national buses (because of the airport and the mine), and between Calama and San Pedro more frequent and cheaper regional buses operate.

Also, buses connect San Pedro with Salta and San Salvador de Jujuy in Argentina.

There are also regular buses from Uyuni, in Bolivia (30,000 pesos). But skipping the Salar de Uyuni Tour between the Chilean border and Uyuni for a simple bus is not recommended—it is one of the most impressive and most inexpensive tours you can do in South America. Nevertheless, cross border bus passes are available from Green Toad Bus which allow you to travel to San Pedro from Argentina, Brazil, Peru, Bolivia and the rest of Chile. Or just ask at the tourist information or one of the booking offices in town.

By plane No airlines fly direct to San Pedro. The nearest commercial airport is Calama. Most flights are direct, and connect Calama with Santiago, but a few also fly to Antofagasta and Iquique. To get from the airport to Calama, take a taxi. From Calama to San Pedro is about 90 min by bus (2,500 pesos). Transvip and Altiplanico run minivan transfer to hotels in San Pedro de Atacama for around 20,000 pesos. No need to reserve: you can buy tickets at their airport booth. Uber is not reliable, if you reserve a car they will cancel it.

Be very careful when you are looking for WiFi at the airport. The restaurant Bakery & Co., located on the main departures level, would scam you by telling you that there is working WiFi in their premises; but once you have purchased your food and beverages, they would tell you that they have just discovered that their WiFi is not working. For reliable connection, go to Costa Tacora Restobar on the balcony (upper floor) of the departures level.

By car At the Calama airport you may rent a car. Car rentals are fairly expensive, however, for Calama is Chile's largest mining hub, and therefore rentals offer mostly medium pick-up trucks. You will need an international driving permit if your license is not in Spanish. However, travellers have reported their German license to be accepted. Rentals are cheaper in Antofagasta, but most likely you will have to return the car there. Most popular destinations are fairly easy to reach with a good map, but driving high in the Andes should not be undertaken by beginners in the area! Getting stuck in the less-traveled roads of the "altiplano" can be a death sentence, since some aren't used at all, and see perhaps a car every two months. That said, travelling on the frequented roads used by the tour providers in San Pedro is straight forward and can even be done with a car without 4WD.

Always travel with a full tank, since the only gas station in the area is in San Pedro. You can find illegal fuel vendors in some of the smaller towns, like Toconao, but they charge outrageous prices. Also, remember that fuel consumption increases dramatically with rising altitude. Check the condition of all tires, even the spare; flat tires aren't at all unusual on the many dirt roads that lead to points of interest.

By thumb Chile is well-known as a hitchhiker's paradise. Getting to Calama from any other point in the country is simple enough, but reaching San Pedro is a bit trickier. The best chances are to be had at the Topater monolith ("Monolito de Topater"). From there, walk south, beyond the underpass, and hitch a ride to town. You might have to wait for a while, but traffic to and from Calama is fairly consistent. Sometimes, even the vans of tourist agencies might pick you up; it all depends on your luck.

Get around

On foot and navigation Once in the town, nearly all points of interest, restaurants, services, are within walking distance, with the exception of a few outlying hotels. Downtown comprises twelve small blocks, between the streets Domingo Atienza and Toconao from west to east, and Licancabur and Caracoles north to south. This last street is the main one, a pedestrian zone.

Outside of town you can even reach Valle de Marte on foot. Also, there are many hiking trails north and northwest of town. For reliable trails and GPS navigation in this desert region, consult OpenStreetMap, which is used by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz. Or just download the according GPX or KML files through Waymarked Trails for such trails on OpenStreetMap. (Note, you just need to change the OpenStreetMap relation ID to download the GPX or KML files through the same link.)

By bicycle Bicycles can be rented in town: 3,000 pesos for 6 hr, 6,000 pesos full day. The rental usually includes warning vest, helmet, lamp, first aid kit, and pump. Bicycles can be a great and inexpensive way to explore the surroundings of San Pedro, like Valle de la Luna, Valle de Marte, Pukará de Quitor, Aldea de Tulor, and even Laguna Cejar (see below). Reliable tracks can be found with OpenStreetMap (see previous chapter).

It is now illegal to ride a bike in the centre of San Pedro. If you look gringo enough, chances are the cops will let you slide — but it's advised not to try. They're fond of ticketing cyclists in the evening.

By car This is the most authentic, least stressful and, depending on the number of people, the cheapest way to do San Pedro and its sights. It is also far easier than you might believe. In 2 days you can cover most of the common and picturesque sights on your own time, even the Tito geysers. Most roads are good in good shape and suitable for regular cars. Also, when you travel along the common routes, there will always be traffic along the way in case you break down (nevertheless, always carry enough water and very warm cloths for the night. Also, be aware of the altitude issues. Do not think, just because you have a 4WD, you are less prone to the dangers of the road. This attitude can be fatal!). As you will require a reliable map, see the comments in the first chapter above.

Going on you own, visiting times will probably vary from the tour companies, i.e. there will be fewer people around when you are at the sight and take pictures. To get a good idea what is to see (even little sights) and which are possible schedules, go around in the centre of San Pedro and ask the booking offices what a trip to this and that sight will look like, what is included, and how much the entrance fee will be.

But doing the maths against the tour prices, you will see that this is fair and easily cheaper, especially if you camp and go in a group. You might even consider renting a car in Antofagasta or Calama where rental prices are much cheaper (~40,000 pesos) and you will also get regular cars—the extra distance you will have to do with a bus anyhow and mostly the extra time is easily covered by the much lower rental prices. To find people to rent a car together with, ask around in your hostel or use the various travel groups for Chile and South America on Facebook.

By tour All important sights around San Pedro can be visited with a tour offered by one of the 150 booking offices in town. However, please see #Cope to get an understanding of the ups and downs of this decision. While tours can be a convenient choice for some people, they can be the horror to others. Basically, if you never had issues with packaged tours, this is the way to go. Otherwise, if you already know what the last point was about, you will probably know that you are not the packaged tour guy/gal—if you always hated tours, you will certainly also let be down by the tours offered in San Pedro.

See

In the following the essential places to visit around San Pedro. The description takes emphasis on the tours offered from San Pedro, but the sights can also be visited without a tour. For the entrance fees of just the sites, see the table at the end of this chapter. To keep track of the changing prices, opening times and closures of certain sites, San Pedro tourism office keeps a list outside of its doors.

El Tatio. above sea level, and some away from town, these are one of the highest geysers in the world. It's also the third-largest geyser site on Earth, with over 80 active ones. Most agencies travel there at 04:00. The spectacle is hard to forget-even if the geysers themselves are smallish, the backdrop, lighting, and sheer variety are astounding. Usually, you get to see them from the first stages of dawn, an hour before the sun rises, until sunlight bathes them completely. The best time to take pictures is at exact sunrise, but other lightings can also create wonderful pictures. Some tour companies already have breakfast and leave for the hot springs before the sun even touches the ground, so make sure you pick one that explicitly promises you that you will have sunrise in the geyser valley.

Directly after the geysers you will most likely visit the hot springs, which are not that hot and at 0 °C or most likely less, it requires some convincing to strip you cloths and to get into the water. On the way back, it's typical to find wild vicuñas, an endangered Andean camelid that's highly protected in Chile. They were rescued from the verge of extinction thirty years ago. Vicuñas in the area are accustomed to human presence, and will tolerate tourists coming to some twenty meters away-any more, and they're likely to flee. Be extremely respectful of the regulations, for many guides and drivers might even react in an aggressive manner if you bother the animals in any way.

A common stop is the fording of the Putana river, a spectacle that for some even surpasses the geysers themselves. Many different bird species inhabit it, and it's perfectly possible to get very close to them-giant coots (fulica gigantea) are especially indolent. Winter has the most birds, with over ten different species cohabiting the place at peak migration, but temperatures are harsh. There's also the possibility of seeing a vizcacha or two (lagidium viscacia), a funny mix between a bunny, a squirrel, and a kangaroo. They're very shy, though, and if you don't get there among the first visitors, they'll have usually disappeared. In the background, to the east, lies the Putana volcano, an active mountain that boasts seven small fumes.

Afterwards you will visit Machuca, an abandoned altiplanic village that lived from the mining of sulphur. Most regular tours stop here. Nowadays, you'll find a few locals there, roasting anticuchos made of llama meat. Teas, soft drinks and empanadas are also available. The meat is of questionable origins, with some wild theories as to its origin floating around. Ask your guide for a laugh. It's fairly safe to consume, though, as sanitation's decent. Just after exiting Machuca, it's common to see llamas grazing on a beautiful pasture. After that pasture lies a micro-sized salt pan, where vicuñas and James' flamingos can be seen (the latter only in summer, though).

If you plan on going, please consider the following things: Temperatures can be terribly cold: -15°C is common through June to August, while in summer it rarely dips below -5°C. It's paramount to wear gloves, a cap, and preferably two layers of socks, along with a very warm jacket. After sunrise, the cold quickly subsides, and it gets bearable. Once you get to Machuca, the heat can be stifling. Prepare accordingly. The altitude, coupled to a steep and winding road, can easily cause altitude sickness. Almost all agencies claim to carry an oxygen bottle on board; this is false. They do bring a can with air compressed to one atmosphere, but it does little other than acting as a placebo. See the section 'Cope' for advice on preventing and ameliorating the sickness. You can also take your own car. Nowadays, the gravel roads to the geyser are of proper state, and it is hard to break down here. Follow the convoy of cars that go up north by Guatín village at around 05:30-05:40. Many people use regular cars without 4WD to visit the geysers, and even most tour companies just have regular vans. However, you need a good map (use OsmAnd or Mapy.cz) and driving skills on gravel. At one point you will pass 4,400 m, take your time if AMS shows up. The geyseys themselves are at 4,100 m. Nevertheless, if you travel along the road that every one takes, even if you break down, it will be easy to find help. Every year there are lethal accidents on that road often with tourists, so beware and be cautious.

Valle de la Luna. Commonly advertised as 'Moon Valley' in English, this part of the Salt Mountain Range offers stunning clinal and anticlinal formations in a perfectly barren landscape. Almost all tours include watching the sunset there—you shouldn't miss it. The large stone walls resemble those of the Grand Canyon in Arizona, sans river. There are also huge halite (rock salt) strata that produce a knocking sound all day long. This can be unsettling at first, but it's actually harmless. Among its prime attractions are the Grand Crater, the Salt Canyon, the Three Maries and salt mines, the Salt Caves, the Cari Viewpoint (also called 'Piedra del Coyote'), and Valle de Marte (Mars Valley). All tours visit a number of these, but it's virtually impossible to know which beforehand. Summer tours tend to be longer, though, and therefore have a greater probability of including more destinations.

It's perfectly possible to ride a bike there and see the many sights, but you should take your time. Although only away from San Pedro, the road's steep and sinuous. When biking, it's advised to travel early (7-8AM) in the morning, for afternoon temperatures can be suffocating year-round. Thus, you lessen the possibility of heatstroke and the sights won't be filled with tourists. Also, it's easier to find someone to rescue you if you get in trouble. If you rent your bicycle longer than 6 hr (6 hr is 6,000 pesos, whole day is 10,000 pesos), you can even enjoy the sunset in the evening from the top near the highway to Calama. You should get a flashlight especially if you want to watch sunset (the road can be dangerous when dark) but also because there's a cave you can visit and it's pitch black in there. Mostly bicycle rentals will include a light (or use your smartphone), which you can use for this purpose, but make sure the bike also has a tail reflector, a helmet, an emergency kit and you got a map of the valley.

If you plan on going, please consider the following: It can get cold immediately after sunset, especially in winter. Bring something warm to wear and even gloves to enjoy the show to its fullest. Carry water! This is vital. This means you actually sweat more. Tours usually include long treks. So, wear appropriate shoes. There'll be lots of sand, too, which can be excruciatingly hot, and many sharp rocks, so flip-flops are a no-go. Since some people will head out by bicycle early and return in the early afternoon, you can ask for their ticket to head out with the bicycle late to see the sunset from the top viewpoint.

Lagunas Altiplanicas. Feel like visiting the Atacama salt pan, a picturesque village, and some Alp-lookalikes in a single day? Plus eating some local food? Then consider this tour, usually advertised as 'Altiplanic Lagoons', the tour varies very little, if at all, between agencies. You'll be visiting the village of Toconao, renowned for its church and bell-tower; Laguna Chaxa, a national reservation which three species of flamingos inhabit year-round, located at the heart of the Atacama salt pan; Miscanti and Miñiques lagoons, located above , and home to a variety of local fauna; and Socaire, a tiny hamlet that lives from selling lunch to tourists-it usually includes home-grown potatoes, big beans, carrots, and quinoa, plus a few other things. There are two different tours, one from 07:00 to 14:00 (half-day), with breakfast but no lunch, and another leaving town at 07:00, and returning at 18:00 (full-day), including lunch and the impressing Piedras Rojas.

If you plan on going, please consider the following: Be wary of the salt pan, as it reflects sunlight in the way that snow does. Wear pants and long sleeves, carry a hat, and wear sunglasses, unless you enjoy the prospect of developing blindness and skin cancer. Miscanti and Miñiques are usually very windy. The wind can easily bring perceived temperature down to 0ºC; bring a good jacket at the very least. Also, follow the guidelines closely, for both park personnel and agency employees are strict about them. Again, carry lots of water. The meals in Socaire are deceiving, in that they'll usually leave you feeling quite full. The quality's good; most visitors find them remarkable. Don't forget to try the home-baked bread with pebre, a typical Chilean sauce made with tomatoes, onions, coriander, and a bit of chili (ají). It comes included in the meal. It's spicy, but nothing unmanageable. Look for the Tropic of Capricorn marker. There's one on both of the roads usually taken by tours. On the main road lies a strange white cross that indicates not only the Tropic, but also the Inca road that used to traverse the area. Most guides ignore this fact (intentionally or not), so you'll have to keep your eyes open.

Laguna Cejar. This is one amazing location in summer! Set in the northern tip of the Atacama salt pan, this location offers a splendid panorama of the Andes, and the possibility to bathe in waters as salty as those of the Dead Sea, meaning you can float in the without drowning, even if you cannot swim. The landscape's also remarkable. It usually ends with sunset, along a simple cocktail with pisco sour. The tour sets off at variable times (since Chile follows daylight saving time), but always in the afternoon between 15:00 and 16:00. Besides the Cejar and Piedra lagoons, excursions usually stop by the 'Ojos del Salar' (Eyes of the Salt Pan), two freshwater eyes very close together, and lake Tebenquinche, a water mirror that offers the absolute best sunsets in the whole area-imagine the mountains slowly changing colors, from yellow to pink, and that same image reflected on the lake's perfect surface!

You can get there by bike: 50 km for the round-trip, with the sun burning your scalp without any mercy. There are shorter paths, but the safest is the main road; to get there, just ask where the customs ('aduana') are, and then travel south until you see a sign that reads 'Laguna Cejar'. The road is paved, and drivers are accustomed to see bikers on it. Wear bright clothing (red, blue and yellow work best), just in case. You should not have any trouble locating it, for there are other signs along the way. If you'd like to visit the other lagoons, besides Piedra and Cejar, you can try asking the employee at Cejar's entry. Use OpenStreetMap (used by OsmAnd and Mapy.cz) to find the way south, and again, bring a flashlight.

If you plan on going, please consider the following: Sun protection is a must. Cejar's environs are of a pure, perfect white, which tends to obscenely reflect light. The water is cold. From October to March, this will be quite welcome, but not so much in winter. There is an upside to traveling in the latter season-some birds, like flamingos, migrate there (June-August). As with the Dead Sea, swimming in such salty waters is different. Always swim on you back! Swimming on your front can be surprising and people have died due to the unsuspecting behaviour of their body and suddenly panicking. Always ask whether freshwater's included in the fee. Virtually all agencies carry some, but ask the guide and driver again, just in case. It's necessary to remove the coating of salt that will cover your body after taking a plunge. If not removed, it can cause an unpleasant itch. When desperate, you can always try swimming in the Ojos del Salar. Be careful with the pisco sour! Normally, agencies send just enough for two glasses per visitor, but sometimes it can be more. As it's sweet and sour, it can be very misleading: the usual liquor used for this has between 35 and 40 proof alcohol. Unsurprisingly, tourists are quite chatty on the way back to San Pedro. Due to the expensive entrance fee to Cejar, tour companies have started offering an alternative which is similar but just has a 10,000 pesos entrance fee, the Laguna Escondidas.

Salar de Tara. It's perhaps San Pedro's best-kept secret. Or not. It really depends on your interests. The road is long, but well-paved, until you reach the entrance to the most remote part of the Los Flamencos national reservation: Monjes de la Pacana (Pacana Monks). The place is well above : Consider it carefully, as it's not uncommon for people to get altitude sickness. After that, it's a visit to some peculiar stone formations, obsidian quarries, more stone towers (called 'Catedrales'), and the huge Tara salt lake. Fauna is abundant, and particular to that environment. The landscape is stunning at all times-it's easy to catch glimpses of Bolivia here and there, as well. Traffic is light, as this destination's not really popular. If that matters to you, then taking this tour is the perfect way of saying 'I was off the beaten track of San Pedro de Atacama'. The schedule's a lot more flexible than in other tours, so harass the driver and guide as much as you like. There are a few optional treks along the way, but they're difficult to attempt.

You'll be feeling shortness of breath almost at once. If you plan on going, please consider the following: Altitude! The highest point of the excursion is almost 4,900 m above sea level. The same nasty winds of Miscanti can be present here, with a vengeance; take warm clothing along. It's not uncommon to get stuck in the sand, particularly when the driver's not really acquainted with the path. It can be fun to push the van out of the mire, though.

Valle del Arcoiris. It features three different parts, all of them interesting

The "Hierbas Buenas" petroglyph site is the first, featuring over a thousand ancient stone carvings from the ancient "atacameño" people. They're from all time periods, from the first caravaners to the Incas. Most tours just visit sites 1 and 2, but that should be enough to afford a pretty nifty panorama of these ancient people's history. The other four sites are of difficult access.

Then you've got the village of Matancilla, which is only habited according to season. If you go there in winter, be assured you'll find it deserted. The inhabitants grow a variety of crops, which are easily distinguished all through autumn. Dead wild donkeys are all too common, on the side of the road, while goats and llamas are harder to spot.

Finally, you've got the namesake for the place: the ever-stunning Rainbow Valley, a series of hills that display countless colors, from white to black, from blue to red. Usually, all tours visit two of the four roads available, where the best views are to be had: The "cathedrals" and the great valley. Next to the former, to the left side, are some ever-mysterious buildings, made partially of serpentine, which gives them a light green color. They're well-camouflaged, so you'll have to climb to actually see them. On the way back from these "cathedrals", there's a beautiful hill that displays a wealth of colors; if the guide doesn't offer you to walk down the slope, ask for it! It's certainly worthwhile.

You can watch a similar spectacle in Argentina, on the "Cerro de Siete Colores", but you'll miss the petroglyphs. It might be worth it to rather book a tour in San Pedro, especially since most tourists are completely oblivious of the Rainbow Valley's existence, so you'll most likely be alone when you visit. Most of the advice given for other excursions applies here.

Valle de Marte. Like most deserts, Atacama has its share of dunes and sand-banks. The most popular is located here. All sandboarding tours will take you there. The dune is almost 100 m in height; still, the typical track is barely a fraction of that. Some of them offer also to watch sunset in the Moon Valley-but be aware that you won't visit any of its spots, except the Great Dune or the Cari Viewpoint.

Like before and especially due to its closeness to San Pedro, this can also be done by bicycle. You can rent a board for sand-boarding in town, you just need a proper backpack to carry the board on the bicycle. The entrance to the valley is just 1.5 km out of town, from where you need to go another 3-4 km. The way is very taxing, though, so keep that in mind.

If you plan on going, please consider the following: If the moon is full, or close to, and rising early, it might pay to ride there later-skipping the unforgiving sun can be of great advantage, especially during warmer months (from October through March). If you're cycling there with a tour company, the traditional axiom is: one board per three people. Remember that there are no lifts in Valle de Marte, which means you've to climb the sands by foot. This will be tiring and frustrating! Three people can share one sandboard with ease; while one toils away, the other two can relax and rest. Of course, this assumes you've lots of time, which might not be the case. This leaves you more time and energy to sand-board, plus they'll usually include watching the sunset, and maybe even a photo album of the experience. Depending on your schedule and interests, this could be far better. Sandboarding is absolutely forbidden in Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)! Expect to be fined if you even try.

Puritama. They're commonly called 'Hot Springs', but that name couldn't be more of a misnomer. The Puritama (means 'hot water' in Kunza) is actually a warm river, that breaks loose from the stone a few meters away from the actual place. Water temperature usually is around 33ºC. It is amazingly clear and pure, and hosts a budding population of rainbow trout (don't worry, they're tiny and harmless). The "hot springs" are property of Hotel Explora, a five-star brand located in all of Chile's hot spots. The facilities are basic, yet elegant and extremely functional. If you can spare the money, you won't regret it; the landscape's stunning, and the water perfect. Ancient agricultural terraces line the canyon-sides, along with massive stone walls, and even some cacti.

The layout of the place is as follows: there are eight artificial pools, cleverly made with volcanic rocks, so that they mesh perfectly with the scenery. Guides and drivers typically recommend the fourth and fifth ones; unless you're there early, forget about them. Go for the seventh. The water's just a little bit colder, but the pool's very large, and has sizable waterfall that doubles as a hydro-massage. If you plan on going, please consider the following: If you're traveling there from El Tatio, you'll be arriving later than the dedicated tours, meaning the place's going to be crowded. In summer, it's not uncommon for the place to simply close down once there's too many people in. Therefore, be careful when visiting between December and February. Also, visitors who take the Geyser route will be forced to follow a stringent schedule; if you want to spend a few hours there, better look for an alternative. Guests at Hotel Explora don't need to pay to enter Puritama. Useful tip: Get there after 14:00. They'll only charge half the entrance fee from that time onwards, and you still have three hours to soak in the crystal-clear water. No tours leave at that time, though, but a taxi can get you there, and even be less expensive that a typical excursion! Consider this alternative if you have time, and are traveling with at least another person. Consult with the hotel staff.

In Spanish, it's called 'Tour Arqueologico'. It usually comprises three destinations: , , and the . Pukará de Quitor is an ancient fortress, most likely built in the tenth century. It's 4 km from San Pedro. The view from the summit is breathtaking. Aldea de Tulor is the oldest village in the Atacama basin, approx. 3,000 years old, and kept in pristine condition. It's part of the Los Flamencos national reservation, and has small exhibits on archeology (worthless) and local flora and fauna (worth a visit). Last, but not least, is the museum. It holds a decent collection of original atacameño pieces, along with some acquired by the ancient inhabitants of San Pedro through trade-these are most exotic. The main exhibit is only in Spanish, though, but you can hire a guided tour in Spanish, English and French. The schedule for these is published in the museum — take a look around. Special, private tours are also available in Italian, German, and Portuguese; you must reserve these at least two days before. The guides are very capable. The museum also sports a small, but well-stocked souvenir store. They carry some of the finest hand-crafted pieces to be had in San Pedro, plus an interesting assortment of specialized books in Spanish and English.

You can visit these places by cycling, or even on foot. The museum's right by the Plaza de Armas, the main square. Most bike rentals will give you a map of the area; it should clearly point out where the Pukará is. Getting to Tulor, however, is a tad tricky. You must look for signs in the most unlikely places: wall graffiti, stuff hung from trees, and street names.

If you plan on going, please consider the following: The so-called 'mummies' were removed from the museum years ago, by request of the indigenous community. If you're obsessed with desiccated corpses (you sicko), there's a nice assortment of them in Salta, Argentina, and La Serena (500 km north of Santiago). The La Serena museum of natural history even has a collection of 'cabezas de jibaro' on display, which are miniaturized cranial skins (they're reduced to the size of an orange-go figure!). The hike to the top of the Pukará de Quitor is strenuous, but well worth it. A taxi is a viable alternative to visit these attractions, especially if you're short on time.

Finally, Atacama desert is one of the best place on Earth to see the sky. Space Star Tours offers a unique experience in watching them. The tour starts with an explanation of the naked eye sky: what is a constellation, how to learn them, how to read a sky map and recognize the main stars. They explain to you why are there different coloured skies etc. On the second part, there is the largest park of telescopes of any public observatory in South America. So it is possible to see Saturn, other galaxies and a lot of other phenomenons out there. The tours ends with a warm drink and an explanation about astronomy. The tours last two hours and a half. The schedule varies during the year (later during the summer, i.e. January and February). There is a Spanish and an English tour, the former starts at 21:00 and the latter at 23:30. You are in the desert and the nights are very cold, so take warm clothes with you, especially warm socks or multiple layers of socks. If you are still cold, they can provide you with warm jackets. Opinions on the tour vary. And many people would agree that you could just take a blanket, lie in the desert and find out the zodiac signs by yourself.

Mountain climbing The environs of San Pedro de Atacama sport a large variety of mountains to climb, catering to many levels of difficulty. Many can be done self-catered, others require the experience of professional guides. Should you attempt any mountain climb, in any case, you ought to be well aware of the potential risks. There's a few specialized agencies that offer this kind of service; be sure that they provide all necessaries, not only asking the clerk, but also the driver and guide! An oxygen tank and climbing rods are the least you should expect.

The easiest mountains to climb are and . They're fairly popular, and take no longer than a day to complete. Higher in difficulty are , and . All these have proper trails, which can be followed, visible on OpenStreetMap—see above.

The beautiful , which towers over the town, is a real challenge; although only 5916 m high, it takes at least three days to complete, not counting an exacting preparation period. Another choice is the Kimal mountain (4276 m); even when its altitude is not that impressive, it's surrounded in myth and legend. According to local folklore, the "princess Kimal" is extremely jealous, and enjoys snatching adventurers away. There's even a supposed season for climbing her, when she's more pleasant; of course, no agency will tell ever you this beforehand. Take the chance at your own risk.

There's still much more to be found in the San Pedro area. From the secluded national reservation at Aguas de Quelana, to the ghastly surface of the Salar de Ascotán, to the most advanced radio-telescopes in the world at ALMA, there's enough sights for half a lifetime. If you are a returning visitor, or someone who loves to see what almost no one else has seen, and you get offered a visit to somesuch place, then take it! Albeit being a tourist attraction for thirty years, San Pedro de Atacama is still full of mystery and wonder.

Tours, prices, times and schedule In the following a summary of what mostly all of the booking offices in San Pedro offer.

The prices quoted on the websites of the tour agencies are usually higher than what you can negotiate on site. So, instead of booking in advance, it is better to walk around the city center of San Pedro and get quotes from two or three tour agencies. Paying cash usually gives you better discounts than by credit card.

Do

Exploring San Pedro by bicycle can be an authentic and less stressful way to travelling. Valle de la Luna (in off season you can visit the for free and there are , at only one the ticket needs to be shown, use OpenStreetMap), Valle de Marte (cycling right at the Cordillera de la Sal sign before entrance is free), Pukará de Quitor, Aldea de Tulor, and even Laguna Cejar can also explored on a bicycle instead with a tour. Other destinations, such as Piedra de la Coca, Catarpe, Garganta del Diablo, and Quebrada de Tambores can even be accessed only on a bicycle (or rented car), as they're not part of the regular tours. If you're planning to go there, then, by all means have a proper map—see #Get around. If you do a full day tour, pick up the bicycle the night before, leave early before it gets hot and return it in the afternoon. Bring lots of water. Biking on the dirt roads here is safe, cars drive slowly past you, and the scenery is stunning. Be prepared to bike hard and get out of the sun before late afternoon. Hiking north of San Pedro and even into Valle the Marte (which is the closest sight from the town) or Pukará de Quitor can be a great alternative to discover the hills and views of the region. Just check out OpenStreetMap, which has many trails marked. Canyon trekking near along the Cañón de Guatin is an impressive experience with great skies during the night for excellent star gazing. Heading north for about 5 km from Guatín, the canyon gets deeper and deeper. And just 45 min south along the canyon from the village, great places for camping can be found. If the trail is well, you can trek back to San Pedro along the river. Try hitch-hiking to Guatín, there is a lot of local transport going there. There is a free walking tour in San Pedro itself on offer. It starts at 10:00 and 15:00 from the centre of town and takes 2 hr. Horse riding in the area. There are plenty of agencies that offer this service; La Herradura is one of the best. While riding on horseback is not the fastest way to travel, it can be one of the most fun. One you shouldn't miss is the Moon Valley: The horse track around it will take you to places inaccessible to other kinds of tourism, and has enough thrill to send you home satisfied! If you've done the usual circuit, and are ready for some more, then take it in the morning. Watching the sunrise between salt-ridges is a unique experience.

Buy

Money San Pedro is an expensive town. So, you will need cash. There are four places with ATMs in town: Banco Estado, in front of the museum, Banco BCI (Caracoles-Vilama streets intersection, close to the plaza), Atacama Connection (they have two offices; the one with the ATM is on the intersection of Caracoles and Calama streets), and a last one at the western end of Caracoles, which only accepts international Visas. As of Mar 2018, withdrawals of 280,000 pesos were possible at Banco Estado. However, on Sunday evenings money at BancoEstado and BCI can run out, even in off-season. So, make sure you head for the ATM early enough. If an ATM refuses to give you money due to supply shortage, you might try with a different amount. For instance, if you wanted 35,000 pesos, round it down to 30,000, or even 20,000 pesos, and withdraw money twice (or a higher amount, which actually makes more sense). However, considering the fee you pay with withdrawals such small amounts should generally be avoided.

Try Toconao Road south of Caracoles Road. Be mindful, though, that one-dollar and damaged bills won't be accepted. Again, they only accept larger euro bills, and only in mint condition. This is also the best place to get Bolivianos for your Uyuni tour.

Shopping Due to the Major's policy in the village, you'll find virtually no indigenous arts and crafts. Whatever you see at the handicrafts markets, you'll find much cheaper in Peru or Bolivia, even Ecuador! The few really local pieces, namely those of cactus-wood, are actually a crime against nature. The wood comes from a severely endangered species of cactus, the Cardón (Echinopsis atacamensis), which has been subject to extreme predation by locals. While a novelty, and sure to bring curious glances from everyone, it's not worth it: In all likelihood, whatever piece you bring back home will be detained at your customs. Be a conscious tourist, and avoid that trap! If you want something really local, visit the museum's store. Even if you don't actually want to visit the exhibit, or have already done so days ago, the people at the entrance will let you go in there freely. They carry plenty of books and woven pieces, plus a few curious souvenirs, that were actually made by the community. Some of the books they have are virtually impossible to acquire anywhere else! Be careful with the peddlers of archaeological finds! There are a few of them. You can be assured that whatever they're selling is the real deal; you can also be assured that whatever you buy will get you in jail. Chilean law punishes the theft of archaeological pieces with hefty fines and a stay behind bars. Do yourself a favor, and avoid them. And, if you're still unconvinced, ask a few locals about the curses that befall those who desecrate burial sites.

Eat

Most restaurants have a set meal, called Menú. This is, almost always, the cheapest and best alternative, wherever you go. Only lower-end locales do not carry this.

Chain restaurants can be found on the main street, Caracoles, and are very popular.

The carritos, at the northernmost end of the handicraft market (away from the main square), are your cheapest option. These are decent, though a bit unsanitary.

Tierra Todo Naturale. Vegetarian restaurant. The food's excellent, as is the service. They can be a bit sluggish, though, and the whole restaurant's a non-smoking area.

Solcor. A bit overpriced, but offers a quiet and secluded atmosphere, along excellent food and competitive prices for beer.

Sol Inti. Has a mixed clientèle: half of them will be locals, the other half being lucky tourists. This restaurant has the best salads and sandwiches in all of San Pedro. Their spaghetti with mushrooms is also remarkable. If they offer meat on the Menú, expect it to be top-notch. The prices are not the cheapest, but more than justified. The waiters are slow, though, so it may pay to press the cashier into sending someone your way, and paying him/her directly.

Adobe. caters especially to younger people; expect it to be chock-full at the evening, as its customers prepare to party later.

La Casona. carries typical dishes from Chile's center. It's expensive, but will also give you some insight to the best Chilean "parrilladas", the local grill. Expect cow's tongue, blood sausages, and more.

Drink

Rules Due to local regulations, no business selling alcohol may open beyond 23:30 on weekdays and Sundays or 02:00 on Fridays and Saturdays. This applies to both restaurants and liquor shops. So, if you're planning to drink the night away, be sure to stock up beforehand! There are a couple of illegal places to buy alcohol later at night, but the prices are outrageous. While no discos or actual pubs can be found in San Pedro, the closest to the latter are Café Adobe, Café Export, and 6º Grado. Sometimes, illegal parties (called "clandestinos" or "fiestas clandestinas") are thrown in the houses of locals, empty lots, and even Valle de Marte. To find out if and where the action will take place, your best bet is to hang out at any of the aforementioned places. Usually, even the waiters can tell you whatever clandestinos will be open that night. They usually start at the time the restaurants close. Drinks in them are expensive, though! And of course, you're barred from bringing your own booze, as the parties are thrown for profit. If you decide to go, be prepared for hordes of drunk locals, frosty outside air, and unreliable conditions-power almost always comes from a gas-run generator, and drinks are brought beforehand by the organizing people; both are susceptible to running out, which normally kills the party. Also, the cops might rear their ugly heads, which can bring the event to a premature end. There are also legal parties, thrown by the City Hall or other organizations, called informally "mambos". These are, however, mostly frequented by the indigenous people ("atacameños") and are to be avoided. The indigenous men are known for drinking in excess, and staging bar fights, which sometimes evolve into riots. Foreigners (and other Chileans) are much disliked by the atacameños; it's not uncommon for them to be assaulted by gangs of drunken Indians and given a sound beating. Of course, not all of them are this way, and it's perfectly possible to visit such parties without harm. If you're absolutely convinced that you must attend a mambo, then the following advice will save you lots of trouble: Get there early, don't bother with the drunken fistfights, stay away from the indigenous women, and leave early. If provoked into a fight, leave! There might be just a lousy drunkard in front of you, but as soon as a fight breaks out, all of his friends will come to the rescue.

Chelacabur. Beer pub; no other drink is served there. Friendly and warm atmosphere.

Sleep

Camping There is a huge desert around, which is especially convenient if you go around by car or on foot. Just make sure you got really warm cloths and sleeping bag, temperatures can easily be around 0 °C.

The hostel situation in San Pedro is vibrant with new places popping up all the time.

Hotel Altiplanico. This walk at night is usually very dark, but safe; bring flashlights. The hotel has excellent rooms with very good bathrooms, plenty of hot water. There are safes in each room but they are small. Good early breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is free Internet available in reception although somewhat slow. The staff was extremely cordial and very helpful. Laundry on the premises within 24 hr. Outdoor swimming pool.

Hostal Terracota. A good place with affordable prices and friendly owner. All rooms have private bathrooms.

Hotel Licancabur. Lack of amenities makes it unfavorable. Private rooms, some with private bathrooms. Hot water was rare, even when requested specifically; water altogether was sometimes inexplicably absent.

Eden Atacameño. Pleasant courtyard with hammocks, free Internet, usable if not fantastic kitchen, shared showers not great, but decent value for San Pedro. Accommodation in matrimonial, twin and triple rooms, with or without bathroom. Bedrooms slightly chilly at night in the winter.

Hospedaje Casa de Guias. A small, simple, budget, clean and warm-hearted place to stay. Accommodation in matrimonial, twin and triple rooms, with shared bathroom. Kitchen facilities on request. Bilingual staff (Spanish and English).

Residencial Casa Corvatsch. Free, slow Internet in the lobby. Outdoor, basic kitchen. No breakfast. Staff are extremely rude and unhelpful and enforce a number of strict rules including kitchen closing times at 20:30 and internet shutdown at 19:00 making the stay uncomfortable. They do not store luggage which is very unconvienient for those with evening buses. Not recommended if you plan on visiting the geyers and leaving San Pedro on an afternoon or evening bus that same day. Television in communal reception only available to the child of the family.

Hostel Rural. A quiet hostel with a large central courtyard, small and nice dorm rooms. Includes hammocks, small kitchen and free internet. Lack of water at night time - common in Atacama - and no possibility to store your luggage after checkout, nor stay in the hostel premises. Kitchen closed before 08:00 and after 21:00, no hot water early in the morning. The people working there are polite and helpful.

La Casa del Sol Naciente. Super friendly atmosphere. One of the cheapest places in town but helpful staff (not overly fluent in English though). They organize asados (barbecues) from time to time and at most times there are people playing music and having a good time. Kitchen is kind of basic. They have a camping too. Most of the time there's hot water. Wifi speed is decent.

Backpackers San Pedro. Very friendly backpackers atmosphere. There's music, hammocks, and a picnic table in the common area and usually people to chat with in the evenings. WiFi works well and there are two computers for public use. The employees are very friendly and helpful too.