San Pedro la Laguna.
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Overview

San Pedro La Laguna is in Guatemala. It is a fairly laid-back small town across Lake Atitlán from Panajachel. A major mochilero (backpacker) hub. Great food, small and walkable, and safe. Expect anything touristy to be priced touristically. San Pedro is best avoided the last week or so of June and the first week or so of July when simulated artillery shells are set off day and night, and amplified noise never stops.

Get in

If arriving by bus, you will be dropped off in the center of town, next to the market. Most hotels are near the lake so you'll need to make your way downhill to find the hotels. When arriving in San Pedro by boat, you'll be greeted by people offering you hotels, kayaks, horseback rides, taxis and drugs. This can be a bit intimidating and overwhelming. If you get them to lead you to a hotel, the hotel owner pays them a commission (normally Q5 per person) based on the number of people who arrive and stay. Some hotels don't pay them a commission so the they will try to get you to go to a hotel that does. However, if you already know the location of your hotel it is best to tell the guide that you do not need his help, or inform the hotel owners that the guide merely followed you. The guides may also ask for a large tip.

If you want to avoid the touts by the Panajachel dock, you can also ask a fellow tourist or in one of the stores or restaurants nearby, most of them will be happy to tell you how to get to your hotel. The TukTuk (taxi) drivers will try to get you to go to the Hotel San Francisco, which is the furthest away from the main dock. There is no need to take a taxi to your hotel. All hotels take 1-10 minutes to walk to from the main dock. If you take the first left after getting off the dock, there are a lot of hotels along that road. After walking a couple of minutes, just past a tienda, there is a small alley on your right with a lot of signs for restaurants, bars and hotels (you'll notice signs for ZooLa and Al Suave). This is the way to the "main trail", where most tourists are; it widens after the first stretch, follow the paving. At Al Suave, make a left for Jarachik, Buddha and El Barrio bars, hot tubs, and other attractions.

The official San Pedro tourist guides' association (ASOANTUR) is next to the Panajachel dock and can provide you with anything, from basic directions to complete full coffee tour around the volcano.

By bus From Antigua: There are two shuttle-bus companies that go directly to San Pedro from Antigua. One charges Q60 and the other Q70. The shuttle bus company, La Ceiba, only charges Q50. They take about 3 hours, including a 15-minute rest break at either a petrol station for food, drink, and to use the restroom. This is the most convenient way to get to San Pedro, there is no need to take a boat from Panajachel. There are excellent views of Lake Atitlan from the mountain road approaching San Pedro. Tickets are available at the travel agency across the street from the Black Cat Hostel in Antigua, and perhaps from other agencies -- ask. To go by chicken bus, first go to Chimaltenango, then look for buses towards Xela/Quetzaltenango. Get off at the turnoff to San Pedro, Kilometro 148, where there are minibuses and chicken buses that go the rest of the way. The three bus companies listed below also pass through Chimaltenango. Taking one of those and going directly to San Pedro is the way to go. Crossing the road at highway marker 148 is not recommended. From Guatemala City: Direct buses from the center of Guatemala City are provided by three San Pedro companies: Transportes Mendez, Veloz San Pedrana and Transportes Wendy. Buses leave at 11:00 (Wendy), 11:30 (Mendez), 12:00 (Pedrana), 12:30 (Pedrana), 14:00 (Mendez) and 16:00 (Mendez) and pass along 20a Calle between 4a and 5a Avenida, Zona 1. Or in the bus terminal, Trebol, direct buses leave every hour from 06:00 or 07:00 to 17:00 or 19:00.

By boat By boat or "lancha" from Panajachel: Q10-20 for locals, Q25-30 for visitors. It is best to bring change with you.

Get around

On foot The area near the water is very walkable, and most things here are no more than a 10 minute walk away.

By tuk-tuk There are plenty of tuk-tuks if you wish, but they are probably only necessary if you want to go up the hill into neighboring San Juan, or to the main part of the town.

See

To enjoy the great views around the lake, use the village guides as the foliage can be dense and the route can be tricky to find. San Pedro has many roads that cut into hidden areas and so on, and there have been cases of armed robberies on rural roads and hiking trails, so it is best to hire a guide as you hike. They are friendly, and will gladly find you a horse to ride also. There is much to see from kayak also, and there are available rentals at Q20/hour (by 2023) if you choose to travel by water alongside the coastline.

Do

Hikes. There are a number of popular hikes departing from San Pedro, including the hike up the nearby Volcano San Pedro. Visitors will be informed at the base of the trail for the Volcano that they must pay the fee for a guide, regardless of whether they want one or not; this, however, is false. It is a very small town, so you will see people making money in this way, as there is limited opportunity here.

Another popular location for hiking is Indian Nose, or Mayan Face (Nariz de Indio o Cara Maya). For both locations a guide is recommended, if for nothing else, personal safety. There have been various cases of hikers being robbed on the trails, especially on Volcan San Pedro.

Trek for Kids is a local hiking company that pays their guides fair wages and uses their proceeds to help local children pay for their schooling.

Yoga. A locally run yoga space. Classes are run M-Sa. Usually at 09:00-10:30 and 16:00-17:30. Lovely setting to practice yoga under the skies and on the earth. Quality of instruction is varied so you might want to shop around. The people of this area speak Tz'utujil as their primary language. They learn Spanish in school which gives them the advantage of knowing the process of learning the language. They also have a noticeably technical way of speaking that is easy to learn as it is simple to understand. Some to check are Flor Del Maiz, Orbita, Cooperativa, Corazon Maya, Casa Rosario, and San Pedro Spanish School. Private lessons are also available. Jennifer, a qualified local teacher, has an office located just past Buddha Bar on the main trail, and comes highly recommended. They can be very flexible with scheduling during the off-season, and will tailor lessons to your interests & needs.

Kayak rentals available on the far east side of town, on the lakeshore. A pleasant way to explore the lake. Q15/hour. Paragliding At least two instructors operate around the lake, one from Panajachel and one from San Marcos. Ask at the tourist office near the Pana dock or in any tourist agency. Climb the volcano San Pedro Guide is "required" but unnecessary.

Eat

Humums-ya : the best hummus and falafel in town, they also have other Mediterranean food. Cool staff and friendly vibe. Just a few meters away from the main crossroads near the Pana dock, across from the Gym.

Smokin' Joes' BBQ. Every Sunday at the Deep End Bar & Pool.

Nick's Place: it's by the Panajachel dock. Probably the most popular place in town due to its great location. Meals are reasonably priced. Jarachik: Jarachik is a hostel and a restaurant. Good food here. Every night (weather permitting) there is a bonfire in the garden and restaurant area. Great food. Jarachik is on the path between the Pana and the Santiago docks.

ZooLa. "Laid back" in Hebrew, offers one of the most comfortable places to lounge around with your friends while you enjoy good food and drink at reasonable prices. Has some Israeli items, including falafel, on the menu but the coffee is locally-grown and doesn't include the ground cardamom that you'll find in some Middle Eastern restaurants.

Streetfood. Cheapest food in town, roasted sausages and chicken with beans, guacamole and tortillas.

Loles San Pedro is open for breakfast and lunch only, They have great-tasting food for Q15 - 20 a plate. A few meters away from the main crossroads near the Pana dock, under the gym.

The Clover. With magical views of Indian Nose and the lake from the patio and bar, the only Irish bar and restaurant has international food and real Irish stew (a big bowl full of meat, potatoes and carrots in a thick sauce - tasty and filling). All meals include large portions, made from delicious ingredients, great drink specials, live music on weekends.

Cafe Atitlan. Follow the trail of colorful coffee beans painted on the cobblestone beside Buddha Bar, and you’ll discover one of San Pedro’s most secluded and peaceful restaurants. The garden offers privacy beneath a big palapa with comfortable seating, as well a table with a big umbrella. Upstairs, the Canadian-style house (lots of wood) has indoor seating and a long terrace with a beautiful view of the lake and lots of flowers and trees. Even better, you get a free espresso with any meal or drink, plus there is free Wi-Fi for customers.

Art Café El Colibri. Very nice and tranquil place with beautiful garden near the lake. Serves breakfasts and snacks. It has WiFi, computers and laundry too. It is connected with charity project to help local students to go study university. By painting a cup, you can support this project.

Drink

The Alegre Pub. British pub that also serves good food. Free movies on the roof at 19:30.

Shanti Shanti. Inexpensive place to chill; good view of the lake.

The Pool Bar & Grill. Daytime chill place. Free pool use for customers. Bar food and lots of drink options. Free pool table, Boccie (pétanque) and a great treehouse. Famous for its Sunday BBQ with Smokin' Joes' barbecue.

El Barrio. A cozy and laid-back bar and eatery on the main path, toward the Santiago Dock. A favorite with local expats.

Art Café El Colibri. Very nice and tranquil place with beautiful garden near the lake. Serves breakfasts and snacks. It has WiFi, computers and laundry too. It is connected with charity project to help student to go study university. By painting a cup, you can support this project!

Sleep

Basic accommodation is easily found when you arrive as you will likely be approached at the dock. Average pricing is Q50. Some specific places include:

Hotel San Francisco. A popular location as some rooms have a kitchen and a bathroom, and the showers are warm (but not hot). Most rooms come with a great view of the lake and a balcony. This hotel is on the other side of the hill but all the locals know where it is, so start asking around once you reach the top of the hill. Because the quality of the rooms vary, ask to see a few before committing.

Casa Elena. Clean room with twin beds on the lakeshore. Owned and operated by a friendly Maya family. Relatively basic accommodations but with hot water and decent WiFi.

Jarachik. Locally-owned Jarachik offers inexpensive dorms and rooms (Q35/45 dorm, Q55 private room w/bathroom; Q75/100 private rooftop room w/bathroom, triple room w/ private bath was Q135 in Dec 2011), a rooftop terrace to chill on, great food and a bonfire most nights, but the owner sometimes puts it out when there are not enough customers. Some rooms are nice, others smell musty so be sure to inspect the room carefully.

Hotel Paraiso. One of the cheapest places to stay, the dorm rooms adjoining the office are only Q10 per person if 2 or more share them (Q15 for an individual). The showers are connected with the 115VAC directly to the plumbing, so it is strongly recommended to turn off the breaker and take a cold shower, otherwise touching the valve handle or the shower head can be deadly.

Mikaso Hotel. A Quebec family built this hotel in 2004-2005 right at the lake with a terrace. It offers excellent cuisine and housing facilities in safe and peaceful surroundings, providing 12 rooms for 2, 3 or 4 people, and a dormitory for 6 persons. Each room has its own bathroom with shower and hot water. Meals presented as self-service are served on the terrace on the third floor overlookong the lake. There is also a guest kitchen. Mikaso is a 10-min walk from the market and any bar and is therefore ideal for travellers who seek quiet nights in this party village.

Zoola. Good food, and very chill atmosphere. Staff have a reputation around town for being rude. Israeli themed and run. (Q100 for private double room en suite). Walk-in only, no reservations.

Hotel Casa Felipe. 3 communal areas and garden. Cook your own meals in the kitchen (with fridge, stove/oven & a personalised basket for your groceries), beers on-site, pool table for free, hammocks. Q30 for a dorm bed, Q40 for a shared private and Q50 for a room. Literally one minute from the bar strip - close enough to crawl home, yet slightly removed from the hustle and bustle. Ask about discounts for longer stays.

Hotel Tepepul Kaan. Tepepul Kaan is above the "calle Turistica" above Junior's Travel Agency about 100 m left of the Pana dock. Locally owned Tepepul Kaan offers inexpensive rooms (Q50/75 all with private bathrooms), and a rooftop terrace to chill on. The hotel offers clean rooms at better prices than in Guate, and is one of the newer (and cleaner) hotels in San Pedro. Backpacker and family friendly. Tepepul Kaan is also the only hotel that donates a portion of its money (25%) to a local children's charity.

Hotel Pinocchio. Private rooms (some with shared & others with private bathrooms) in 2 buildings around pretty yard & gardens. Hammocks on patio in front of most rooms. 24-hr security. Guest kitchen shared. Wi-fi internet included. Bottled water provided. Great lookout over lake from roof of 3-story main building. Charged Q50 per person (Q150 total) for private bath triple room on 3rd floor (Dec 2011) for 1 night.

Hotel Peneleu. Two tall yellow concrete buildings with multiple balconies and terraces with tables and hammocks. Singles start at Q100 for walk-in but Q85.40 for booking (Jan 2023]. Friendly owner and kitchen available. Good Wi-Fi and electric sockets all over the place.

Pricing

The prices in most of food stores, everyday consumables, have fixed prices. Fixed prices may also be found in the public buses (chicken buses). However, stores and street vendors selling art or craftwork expect people to engage in bargaining. The same holds true in the market place in San Pedro, and indeed throughout Guatemala.

However, not all prices are subject to bargaining. For example, hotel rooms, and shuttle buses. All hotels and tour companies must register their services and their prices with INGUATE, the national tourism board, and must pay taxes based on those prices. The business owners are no different from other business owners around the world. They have loans to pay off, investments to recuperate, etc. Remember, "Act locally, but think globally."