Thimphu.
Your next chapter?

Overview

Thimphu (Dzongkha: ཐིམ་ཕུག།) is the capital of the Kingdom of Bhutan, and with a population of around 141,000, it is the nation's largest city.

Understand

The Thimphu Valley has been home to small settlements for centuries, and a dzong has stood here since 1216. But the city itself began to take shape only after Thimphu was declared Bhutan’s capital in 1961. Vehicles arrived the following year, marking the start of its transformation into the country’s administrative centre.

Since then, Thimphu has developed rapidly. Tree-lined streets now run through the city, while the area around the central clock tower has been turned into a park and open-air performance space for fairs and cultural events. In 2008, the national stadium and a riverside park were completed. The area around the dzong and government buildings remains one of the city’s greenest and most attractive parts.

Perhaps what is most memorable about Thimphu, however, is the friendliness and hospitality of its people. There is a saying that if you wave from a vehicle in town, even without knowing who is inside, people will instinctively wave back.

Norzin Lam is the city’s main thoroughfare, lined with small hotels, shops, shopping complexes, and cafes. The parallel street, Chang Lam, is home to the post office, the national stadium, several hotels, and a growing number of modern bars and restaurants.

The winter season in Thimphu is very cold but dry, while the summers are wet and humid. The best times to visit are from mid September to the end of October and from March to May.

Get in

By plane is the country's sole international airport and a 45-minute to 1-hour drive from the capital. Bhutan has four domestic airports and two domestic and international carriers.

The journey from Siliguri to Thimphu takes 9-10 hours. There is no direct bus, and passengers will need to change transportation in Phuentsholing. Indian taxis will travel as far as the border town of Jaigaon and will not enter Bhutan.

By bus All inter-district buses arrive and depart from the city's bus station across the river from the city centre. It is a 5-hour drive (mostly through Chukha (district) from the border town of Phuentsholing.

Various private operators like Dhug, Meto and Sernya run Toyota Coaster bus services from Phuentsholing to Thimphu. These buses can seat 22 and are very comfortable. Advance reservation can be made at Phuentsholing bus station or online:

Get around

The city centre is small enough to negotiate on foot.

By bus The city operates an efficient public bus service connecting the downtown with outer suburbs. The station for local buses, known locally as 'Bus Parking' is just east of Changlimithang Stadium.

There are taxi ranks on Norzin Lam (near the cinema hall and Punjab Bank). Taxis also cruise and can be hailed at any point.

See

Although lacking the charm and culture associated with ancient capitals, Thimphu has several attractions of note.

Religious structures Monasteries are referred to by their Dzongkha title of lhakhang or gompa.

Changangkha Lhakhang. Constructed in the 15th century, this is one of the oldest temples in the Thimphu Valley, and is dedicated to Avalokiteshvara, the Buddhist emanation of compassion. The temple affords wonderful views over the entire valley. Go to see the prayer ritual inside the monastery and talk with the students here.

Statue of Dordenna Buddha. Sitting on top of Kuensel Phodrang hill is a 51.5-m bronze statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The site also offers unobstructed views over the Thimphu Valley, which are especially stunning at sunset.

Thangtong Dewachen Nunnery. The seat of the 17th emanation of Thangtong Gyalpo. Built in 1976, the nunnery is home to over 60 nuns. Large statue of Thangtong Gyalpo, views over Thimphu Dzong. Very friendly and welcoming. Ceremonies conducted on request.

The National Memorial Chorten. A good place to visit in the evening when the locals are doing their evening prayers. The stupa was built in 1974 in memory of the third king.

National Folk Heritage Museum. A traditional house that showcases rural life. Exhibits and cultural shows are held in the museum compound.

The Royal Textile Museum. A display of exquisite Bhutanese textiles from the 1600s to the present day.

Simtokha Dzong. Built in 1629 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, Simtokha was the first dzong to be built in a unified Bhutan. It houses the country's main Dzongkha language learning institute.

Tashichho Dzong. Built in the 18th century by Shabdrung Rinpoche to house government officials. Later, it was enlarged to accommodate both the monastic and civil bodies. Three times suffering severe damage from fire and once from an earthquake in 1897, much of the historic building dates from the rebuilding in 1902. To accommodate the national government and the central monastic body, the dzong was totally refurbished and enlarged in 1962, a year after Thimphu was designated the nation's capital. The main structure of the whitewashed building is two-storeyed with three-storeyed towers at each of the four corners, topped by triple-tiered golden roofs. There is also a large central tower or utse. The towers and roof are beautifully lit at night.

Botanical Gardens. On lush hillside about 10 km from the city, the gardens offer a peaceful and relaxing environment to spend a few hours. Botanists will find the wide selection of indigenous trees and plants of interest.

Centenary Park. On the banks of the river (near the city stadium), this 5.6 acres of parkland offer a pleasant and relaxing environment to stroll or to sit and watch the river flow by.

Changyul Park. A 7-acre river-side park. Traditional Bhutanese structures. Community hub. Cafeteria. Performance plaza.

Ludrong Memorial Garden. A lovely garden with ponds and bridges and unobstructed view of Thimphu Dzong. The garden was donated to the public by the Royal Grandmother, HM Kesang Choden, in memory of her late brother.

Takin Preserve. The Takin is the national animal of Bhutan, and looks like a cross between a cow and a goat. Legend has it that the animal was created by the great Buddhist yogi, Drupa Kunley, and it can be found only in Bhutan and nearby areas. Taxonomists place the animal in a category of its own as it is not similar enough to any other animal to fit established categories.

Choki Traditional Art School. A private non-profit school specializing in the traditional 13 arts of Bhutan. Offers free education to the underprivileged. 340-year-old museum, with live demonstrations and opportunities to try Bhutanese painting and to make butter tea. Gift shop.

Zorig Chusum School of Traditional Arts. Zorig Chusum was established in 1971 to preserve the 13 traditional arts of Bhutan, and visitors are able to observe students honing their skills. There is also a small gift shop selling work created at the school. The thirteen arts are paintings, carpentry, wood carving, sculpture, casting, metal work, bamboo carving, gold & silver work, weaving, embroidery, masonry, leather work and paper making.

Do

Dhyana Thimphu Meditation Centre. Modern centre. Classes in shamatha and vipassana meditation taught by experienced lamas.

Jigme Dorji Wangchuck Public Library. A modern facility. Child friendly. Good selection of English books. Appreciates donations of popular titles, especially those on Buddhism and Bhutan.

Snow Leopard Theatre Repertory. Small private theatre. Bhutan inspired productions. Innovative. Family-friendly.

The National Institute of Traditional Medicine. Serzhong Lam. A place to have any chronic ailments diagnosed and treated using herbal compounds. Ensure to retain the prescription.

The National Library. Pedzoe Lam. It houses a rare collection of Buddhist texts on the second floor, and there is a small selection of English books on Buddhism (mostly donated by Taiwan) and on Bhutan on the first floor.

Bhutan Echoes Literary Festival. Events to promote literature, culture, and art in Bhutan

Buy

Bhutan's small population means demand for new and innovative goods is limited. Thimphu has three kinds of stores: clothing, handicraft and hardware. Between these, there is a small assortment of stationery, bookshops, and supermarkets. Almost all shops stock the same goods, so if you cannot find the required items in the first couple of stores it is generally useless to persist.

Haggling at tourist-oriented shops is expected, but the margin for discount is small (unless you make a bulk purchase).

Most handicrafts sold in Thimphu are made in Nepal or other Himalayan areas. Exceptions are cloth items, some thankas, goods made of lemon grass oil, incense, and Bhutanese coffee.

Junction Bookstore. A lovely cabin-style bookstore set in a garden. Patio. Wide selection of books — Classic novels. Supports local creative industries through non-profit sales of the work.

Pekhang Enterprises. Good selection of stationary and children's books. Books on Bhutan and Buddhism is an enclave at the rear of the shop. Helpful service.

Trinkets and Bookworld. Bright and airy shop. Best selection of books on Buddhism in Bhutan. Professional and friendly service.

Handicrafts The weekend market in Lower Market (across the river from the vegetable market) has over 100 stalls selling hand woven cloth and other handicrafts.

CDK Gyencha. A sustainable clothing and home textile brand that specializes in modern interpretations of traditional Bhutanese designs. Products are made using natural fibres woven by home-based weavers across Bhutan.

Choego. Wide range of handicrafts made as part of a young peoples' skill training programme. Coffee shop.

CSI Market. A wide range of quality handicrafts and locally produced food items under one roof. Cafe.

Dolkar Handicrafts. Specialises in antique handicrafts, used woven cloth, traditional silver buckles, antique jewellery, and wooden eating bowls, etc.

Drukpro Bhutan. Products designed by local artists. Creative silk scarves. Purses and bags. T-shirts.

Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre. A weaving centre employing around 20 professional weavers. Showroom on top floor.

KS Made in Bhutan. Bags, T-shirts, jackets - A fusion of traditional Bhutanese fabrics and motifs with contemporary design..

Lungta. One of the largest handicraft shops in the city centre. Good selection of hand made goods from all over the Himalayan region.

Norzin Lam Handicraft Market. A line of handicraft stalls. All items are from Bhutan.

Tarayana Foundation. Tarayana trains and supports the vulnerable and disadvantaged to make traditional handicrafts. Displays are uninteresting and the selection of goods is limited but the quality of the handicrafts is excellent and they offer a more rustic and genuine feel that those on sale at the commercial handicraft shops.

Thridung Nima Namza. Hand woven fabric from some of the best weavers in Bhutan.

Thuktro. Quality bags made with Bhutanese woven material. Canvas bags with Buddhist motifs.

Yarkay Central. This shopping centre across from Hotel Norling on Norzin Lam has two good quality craft shops:

Kelzang Handicrafts. Most commercial and sells a range of goods, including t-shirts.

Thimphu Central Post Office. The post office has a large selection of stamps for sale. The special feature of the post office is that you can get a postage stamp made with your own photo printed on it, and these stamps can be used for postage purposes.

Eat

Most restaurants (including those in 2- or 3-star hotels) in Thimphu stop serving food between 20:30 and 21:30. For information about restaurants in hotels, check the sleep section of this article.

Budget After 21:00, Norzin Lam plays host to street hawkers, selling some of the best thukpa (Bhutanese style noodle porridge) and momos (meat or veg filled steamed dumplings) in town. The hawkers at the lower end of the street, between Druk Hotel and old taxi parking area are reputed to be the best.

Zombala restaurant. Some of the best momos in town. Kuka and pakoras are really good, Thupka is a bit bland.

Birbi. A restaurant in garden setting. Warm and cosy ambience. Continental and fusion cuisine. Coffee. Desserts.

B.Taco. Tasty Mexican food. Coffee. Standard fast food restaurant ambience. Coffee. Bubble tea.

Dim Sum Basket. Authentic and tasty Cantonese cuisine. Veg and non-veg dishes. Bright, but uninspired interior. Large street-viewing windows.

Hayate Ramen. Owned by a Japanese lady and her Bhutanese husband. Hayate offers authentic ramen and sushi. Japanese-style decor.

Madam Yen. Authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Stylish interior. Large picture windows. Friendly and efficient service. Excellent coffee and desserts.

Phang-Guu. Authentic Bhutanese delicacies and meals. A fusion of traditional and modern interior. Outdoor seating.

Sa-Toh. Excellent Korean cuisine. Warm and minimalist interior. Fast and friendly service.

The Seasons Restaurant Pizzeria. Serves authentic pizza and Italian salads. Selection of filter coffees. Outdoor patio.

Yolo Eateries. Chic design. Japanese fusion cuisine. Coffee. Cocktails and drinks. Views over the Clock Tower. Free WIFI.

Splurge Upscale hotels (see the Splurge section in Sleep below) have restaurants.

Drink

Coffee Thimphu has a large number of cafés; only those with distinctive character are included here.

Ambient Cafe. An elegant and relaxing cafe in a central location. A professional Turkish coffee roaster ensures the coffee is always fresh. Full range of espresso-based coffees. Cold brew. Freshly roasted beans (ground or whole). Wide selection of delicious cakes. Large range of teas. Fresh juices. Homemade ice-cream. Healthy vegetarian snacks and meals. Sourdough bread and baguettes. Panoramic views over the city streets and mountains beyond. Free Wi-Fi.

Bingsu. A small cosy cafe inside a resort courtyard. Open to non-resort residents. Serves cappuccino and Americano. Specializes in East Asian shaved-ice desserts and custard tarts. A wide rage of homemade ice-cream.

Brusnika Russian Cafe. Full range of coffee. Continental cafe-style meals with good selection of bread. Views over Ludrong Park and Thimphu Dzong

Cafe Luna. A very small, cozy cafe. Good selection of books. Excellent coffee and teas. Simple and wholesome meals.

Daily Delight. Bright and atmospheric cafe. Excellent coffee. Wide choice of boba tea and shakes. Good selection of books to read on the premises. Friendly and helpful staff.

Gazom Desserts. A cosy cafe. Specializes in Japanese-style desserts and food. Excellent coffee. Matcha served in bowls. Dinner on reservation basis only

Little Himalaya Cafe. Cosy and chic. Good coffee. Desserts. Light meals. Friendly and helpful service. Small selection of books. Alcohol. Free WIFI

Tower Cafe. A brights and lively cafe popular with youth. Rap and rock played from flat screen TV. Good coffee. Tasty light meals and snacks. Small outside seating area with view over the Clock Tower.

Thimphu has few scintillating night clubs, which can be very glamorous with a low entry fee (approx Nu 250 per person). The drinks are also generally inexpensive and the staff friendly. While bars are open every night and close at midnight, the disco-type clubs are open on only on W F and Sa, and close at 03:00.

Druken Yeti. A cute, small bar. Popular with the cool middle-aged crowd. Wide range of alcoholic beverages. Simple wholesome meals.

Smilers Cafe-Bar. A cool bistro with a distinct urban tone. Excellent continental food. Espresso-based coffees. Wide range of alcoholic drinks. Fast and efficient service.

The Grey Area Coffee Lounge Bar. Run by well-known personality and Bollywood actor Kelly Dorji. Chic and cosy interior. Live music. Dance area. Coffee. International cuisine.

Sleep

Budget Most of Thimphu's budget hotels are on Norzin Lam (the main road through the city), especially above the Clock Tower. The main door will probably be closed by 22:00 at the latest.

Hotel Ghasel. Rooms with attached bathroom and hot water facility, cable TV. There are also restaurant, bar and fast food facilities — for those pining that backstreet Indian vibe, the hotel's vegetarian restaurant is the place to come. Under the sound of Hindi songs blasting from a TV, Ghasel produces delicious dosa and thali and a range of other Indian and Bhutanese specialties.

Hotel Tandin. Cheap Indian and Bhutanese dishes.

City Hotel. A chic hotel in the heart of the city.

Hotel Ananda. Large, pleasant rooms. Five minute walk from centre of town. Indian and continental cuisine. Polite and efficient service.

Hotel Druk. A large city centre hotel next to the Clock Tower. Health club with massage, sauna, steam facilities.

Hotel Motithang. A pleasant hotel on the mountain side above Thimphu. Wonderful views over the valley. A great place for people looking for peace and quiet or some inspiration.

Tara Phendeyling Hotel. Comfortable rooms. French, Continental, and Indian cuisine. Cafe. Gym. Steam and sauna.

The Seva Hotel. Tastefully decorated, spacious rooms. Warm hospitality. Mixed local/international breakfast options. Excellent Indian cuisine. Coffee.

Zhiwa Ling Ascent. A chic and minimalist hotel among a forest.

Amankora Thimphu. Part of the Aman super-luxury hotel chain. A 16-room lodge offering five-star facilities.

Le Meridien. Large and centrally located. Contemporary decor.

Pemako. Opened in 2008, a large and centrally located hotel offering full amenities.

Six Senses. A luxurious, minimalist resort offering views over the Thimphu Valley and landmark Statue of the Buddha. World-class service and menu.

Yarkay. A chic and modern hotel with traditional touches. Centrally located.