Veliko Tarnovo.
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Overview

Veliko Tarnovo (Bulgarian: Велико Търново, also romanized as Veliko Turnovo) is a historic city in the central-north of Bulgaria notable for its medieval ruins and its picturesque cityscape – it was built on the steep banks of the Yantra River as it snakes through the foothills of the Balkan Mountains. In the middle ages, Tarnovo was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185-1396) and the partially restored ruins of the Tsarevets Fortress are the main sight of the city. Today, it's a university city with a population of about 66,000 and the administrative centre of the eponymous region.

Understand

A town with very rich history, Veliko Tarnovo was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire and has long traditions in the culture of Bulgaria. The city is rich in museums and historical sites, combined with vivacious night life propelled by the students in one of the largest universities in Bulgaria. It is located around a major bend in the Yantra River that carved steep hillsides on which the Old Town is built. The Old Town is separated into 3 hills: Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, and Sveta Gora, while the New Town spills out into a flatter region to the west of the hills.

The first syllable of the city's name is pronounced similar to "turn" in English, with a hard R - TURN-ovo rather than TAHR-novo, as the romanized form of the name would suggest. The "Tarnovo" spelling is a result of the somewhat controversial official transliteration system that conflates two separate Bulgarian vowels, 'а' and 'ъ', into a single Latin letter - 'a'. In older sources in English, the name is rendered as Trnovo, Tirnovo, or even Tirnova. The likely origin of the name is the Slavic root for "thorn". The appellation Veliko ("Great") was added to the city's name in 1965, partially as a reference to its glorious past, partially to distinguish it from Malko Tarnovo ("Small Tarnovo") in South-Eastern Bulgaria. Journalists and people who write tourist materials sometimes use the nickname "'the City of the Tsars" ("tsar" being the Slavic title equivalent to "king").

Get in

By plane Although Veliko Tarnovo's Gorna Oryahovitsa airport 4 km away is not open to passenger air traffic (it is possible to arrange private aircraft landings there), it is possible to fly to Sofia, or the coastal city of Varna and then by rail or coach to Veliko Tarnovo.

By train Veliko Tarnovo is one of the major stops on Line 4, which runs north-south from Ruse on the Danube to Stara Zagora in Southern Bulgaria, crossing the Balkan Mountains. Veliko Tarnovo is also very close to Gorna Oryahovitsa (less than ), a smaller town known mostly as the junction between that line and the Sofia-Varna line, which runs east-west along the whole length of Northern Bulgaria, from the capital to the Black Sea.

It's possible to get to Veliko Tarnovo by rail from both Romania and Turkey. Between June and September, the Bosphorus Express international overnight train runs between Bucharest and Istanbul, once daily in each direction (about 21 hr end-to-end). From Bucharest, it departs from the Bucuresti Nord station, crosses the border at Ruse, and takes about 7 hr to Veliko Tarnovo; from Istanbul, it departs from the Halkalı station (not Istanbul's central station), passes through Çerkezköy and Edirne, and takes about 14 hr to Veliko Tarnovo. Another option for Bucharest is buying a ticket to Gorna Oryahovitsa on the Bucharest-Sofia train (also once daily Jun-Sep). Off-season, rail travel requires changing trains at the border crossings.

Many national trains to Veliko Tarnovo require changing at Gorna Oryahovitsa; in that case, it can be more convenient to just buy a ticket to that town and then take a bus, minibus or taxi from Gorna Oryahovitsa station to Veliko Tarnovo.

By car One of the main roads in Bulgaria runs through the city, so car transport is not a problem to and from the city. Since the town is located relatively in the centre of Bulgaria, it is quite comfortable to stop there for an hour to rest and get a glimpse of the sights.

Driving into and in the New Town is easy, but the roads in the Old Town are smaller, windier, and weren't designed for modern auto traffic, so it'll be easier to travel in the Old Town on foot. Also, you can't drive directly into the Old Town without first driving through the New Town. Bulgarian highway E85 tunnels under the old town as it follows the Yantra River, but it doesn't have direct access to Veliko Tarnovo at the tunnels.

By bus Busses run approximately hourly from Sofia. Several buses daily run from Plovdiv north bus station (~) and from Varna. The small bus station is ~1 km from the centre of town so arrange pickup during winter. The Biomet coach tickets can be bought online (English website).

There are two minibuses per day to and from Plovdiv. They depart from Bus Station North in Plovdiv at 08:30 and 16:30, and take around four hours. Drop off is on the western edge of Veliko Tarnovo at a somewhat unofficial bus station.

Get around

On foot Walking is the best way to see Veliko Tarnovo. The town is fairly large but everywhere is within easy reach including attractions such as Tsarevets, the medieval stronghold. In the Old Town, walking is preferable since the roads weren't designed for modern transportation and are cramped and winding.

By public transport Since Veliko Tarnovo is not that large, you'll probably never use it. Buses run from 07:00 till 21:00 with frequency of rides varying between 20 and 60 minutes. Buses #20, #50 and #40 go to Tsarevets. Bus 10 connects the city with Gorna Oryahovica railway station (but mini-buses are preferable). Virtually all bus lines go through the city center. Tickets can be purchased only in the bus from a conductor.

By taxi Taxis in Veliko Tarnovo are yellow and can be caught on the streets by waiving a hand or can be called. The passenger is charged ~ initial fee, and ~ per kilometer afterwards. Overall this means of transport is very reliable.

By car Although Veliko Tarnovo is generally a calm city, transportation by car could be very complicated due to the frequent traffic reorganisations. The maximum speed within the city is 50 km/h.

See

The city is divided into an old and new parts. The old city is a collection of traditional renaissance houses scattered over the hills around the river Yantra while the new part is a mixture of communist and modern style buildings.

The Yantra River creates a natural choke point where much of the historic old town, including the main fortress, is situated. This area is compact and experiences high foot traffic. The western half of the city is more open and primarily residential, offering a quieter atmosphere. While most museums and monuments are concentrated in the central choke point, both districts provide insight into the layout and character of medieval European towns.

There are various historical museums, located in Old Town, and an art museum on an island in the river.

Tsarevets. Tsarevets, the medieval stronghold of the Second Bulgarian Empire, served as the capital's primary fortress from 1185 to 1393. The complex housed the royal and patriarchal palaces on the hill. Visitors can access the site to view these foundations. The reconstructed Baldwin Tower is open, demonstrating the design and function of medieval fortifications. Views of the city, the surrounding hills and the Yantra River.

Samovodska Charshia is a historic street that was established in the 1860s. Originally a grain market where villagers from nearby Samovodene traded goods, it became a commercial hub during the National Revival period. Restored in the 1980s, the cobblestone lane now houses workshops for pottery, woodcarving and traditional crafts. Features include 19th-century buildings such as the 1858 Hadji Nikoli Inn and the Emilian Stanev House-Museum. The Mother Bulgaria Monument in the city centrevcommemorates soldiers who died in the Serbo-Bulgarian, Balkan and both World Wars. Completed in 1985, the bronze figure represents the grieving motherland. There is an eternal flame at its base. The site is a focal point for public remembrance. The Prison Museum is in a former 19th-century prison used during the struggle for Bulgarian national independence. Exhibits detail the imprisonment and treatment of revolutionaries by Ottoman authorities. Visitors can see original cells, solitary confinement quarters and instruments of punishment. Mini Bulgaria is an open-air park near the Tsarevets Fortress. Over 80 scale models of Bulgarian landmarks includes the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the Rila Monastery and various royal palaces. Constructed at a 1:25 scale, the exhibits are arranged along a path. Features QR-codes to access audio guides.

Eat

Bars and restaurants worth visiting:

Malkia Inter. Local cuisine, run by a nice family. It is cosy with lovely and interesting decor of a lot of musical instruments. Tasty food and inexpensive.

Ego Bar and Grill. National and foreign cuisine, cheap prices. There are three "Ego" restaurants, at 17, Nezavisimost St., at 1, Slaveykov Square, and at the 3rd floor of Central Mall.

Pizza Tempo. Pizza and national cuisine.

Shtastliveca. A menu with mainly Bulgarian dishes, and a nice view of Yantra River.

Ethno. A mixture of Bulgarian and foreign dishes is on the menu.

Hadji Nikoli Inn. Housed in a beautifully renovated old inn, this fine dining restaurant with Bulgarian cuisine on the menu offers home-made wine. Also doubles as a cafe (with an open air section) and a wine bar.

Do

Bulgarian lessons. A small language school offering Bulgarian lessons by qualified tutors with PhDs who specialise in the teaching of Bulgarian as a second language.

Free walking tour Veliko Tarnovo. Every day at 11:00hr a free walking tour. No reservation needed, just show up.

Cycling. Roads around the city are generally well-maintained, though the hilly terrain requires some physical exertion. Several monasteries are accessible via cycling day trips. Preobruzhenie Monastery, located roughly 5 km northwest of the city, is the most direct route. Cycling to the village of Arbanasi is also possible, though the climb and traffic levels may pose challenges for the less experienced.

Drink

Like many larger cities in Bulgaria, Veliko Tarnovo has a large regional brewery that produces its own brand of beer - Boliarka (bolyarka, the female form of bolyar, medieval Bulgarian noble/courtier).

Melon Live Music Club. Nice live music concerts at night time (around 11pm). During summer they do open air concerts in front of the Beaux Arts Museum.

Sleep

Veliko Tarnovo offers a wide range of accommodation, from very cheap private rooms and hostels to 4-star hotels that can make you feel like you are in a Western European town or city. There is seemingly something to suit all types of people that are staying in the town.

Camping Veliko Tarnovo. A great campsite with free Wifi, newly fitted showerblock, fully equipped laundry, tents for rent, sports and leisure facilities, cafe/bar/shop on site. The owners, Nick & Nicky will try to help you with anything you need. You can even get your hair cut on site! Collection service available from Veliko Turnovo.

Hiker's Hostel. Beds from ~ per person. Good quiet but central location and lovely view of the fortress. Free pickup service and very helpful English speaking staff. Free internet, Wi-Fi, breakfast.

Hostel Mostel. ~ per person per night for a dorm, ~ per person per night for a double en-suite room. Free Internet access and Wi-Fi, free breakfast, and a free light meal and a local beer at night. Friendly and helpful staff. Good value day trips available. Can organise tours to various attractions around VT including the famous Buzludzha monument.

Hostel Pashov. About ~ for twin room (3 rooms available). Friendly owner who provides free transport to and from the station.

Rooster Hostel. A lovely hostel which has been decorated by a well known Bulgarian interior designer: full of art works and with beautifully decorated rooms. There is a common room and a reasonably well equipped kitchen. Four shared bathroom. It is immaculately clean and the family running it are really helpful with information and directions. Budget prices even for single/double rooms. The front rooms downstairs look over the town and valley, and upstairs the rooms are in the attic but are spacious.

Guesthouse Diel. Mid-range prices by Bulgarian standards, but still cheap. Stay a great small guesthouse (a family business) with very good rooms and have a great breakfast in the garden. In the same building is an English school for children located, so you might see or hear them. In a few steps you are from the main street. Excellent quality yet affordable. The hosts speak Bulgarian, English and Russian. Call for bookings or search the well-known hotel booking sites.

The White House. Mid range prices by Bulgarian standards but still cheap. Large luxury self catering apartments close to Veliko Turnovo in the peaceful village of Tserova Koriya. High quality at affordable prices.

Hotel Gurko. A very traditional style hotel with a popular restaurant and good quality rooms. Can be a little bit noisy, and the rooms above the reception and restaurant should be avoided by light sleepers.

Studio. More expensive than some hotels but there is a difference. Excellent roof bar provides a good view of the light show (when it happens). Good breakfast and there is a restaurant. Decor is a bit dark and quirky, and may not be to everyone's taste.

There are a number of 4-star hotels in Veliko Tarnovo with modern facilities and clean, comfortable rooms.