Sarajevo.
Your next chapter?

Overview

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and its largest city. Sarajevo is very tourist friendly, especially pedestrian area in the Old Town in the centre of the city. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to explore. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs or anyone else.

Understand

Sarajevo has 420,000 citizens in its urban area (2013). Sarajevo metropolitan area has a population of 555,000 and includes some neighbourhoods of "East Sarajevo" that are a part of Republika Srpska.

The city is commonly nicknamed "Jerusalem of Europe" or "Jerusalem of the Balkans" due to its long history of religious and cultural diversity, where mosques, synagogues, Catholic, and Orthodox churches have lived together for centuries.

History Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and diverse cities in this part of Europe. It is a place where the Western and Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It is both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace through multicultural tolerance. The city is traditionally known for its religious diversity, with Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics and Jews coexisting here for centuries. Additionally, the city's vast historic diversity is strongly reflected in its architecture. Parts of the city have a very Central-European look, while other parts of the city, often blocks away, have a completely distinct Ottoman, some Soviet-like or Socialist modernism feel.

Some important events in Sarajevo's history include the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led to World War I; the 1984 Winter Olympics; and the 1992-1996 siege.

The city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992–1995, although bullet holes can still be found in some buildings. There is little street crime, with the city ranking as one of the safest in Southeastern Europe.

The city of Sarajevo stretches west–east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west–east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.

Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town (Stari Grad). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija (BAHS CHAR she ya; etymologically baš (head, main), čaršija (bazaar, trading area) in Turkish), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.

[ Visit Sarajevo "Sarajevo Navigator" is an online guide magazine in English and Bosnian, the latest issue being March 2019.

Sarajevo has a humid continental climate, since mountains surrounding the city greatly reduce the maritime influence of the Adriatic Sea. Summers are typically hot (record high of 41 °C in 2008) with an average of 46 days per year above 32 °C, while winters are snowy and cold with an average 4 days per year below -15 °C. Rain can be expected in every season, with an average of 75 days of precipitation per year, which in winter often falls as snow.

Get in

This is Bosnia's principal airport, hemmed in by mountains and fog-prone, so flight delays are common in winter. The only passenger terminal is Terminal B; it's closed overnight 23:00–05:00. In the groundside main hall (after customs on arrival, before security on departure) there are currency exchange booths, car rental desks, a bookshop that sells local SIM cards, and a fast food area upstairs; there's no luggage storage. Airside is small, with a cafe and duty free shops accepting major currencies. New terminal facilities are under construction, to open in 2021. About 1 km away, walkable by the route to the trolleybus (below) then keep straight on, is the East Bus Station for destinations in Republika Srpska.

The most important hub connections are from Frankfurt (by Lufthansa), Vienna (by Austrian), Istanbul (by Turkish Airlines), Dubai (by flydubai) and Doha (by Qatar Airways) as well as flights to neighbouring countries (Belgrade by Air Serbia and Zagreb by Croatia Airlines) amongst others. Service to London-Luton is operated by Wizz Air, and to London-Stansted from April to October.

While you're at the airport, consider visiting the Tunnel of Hope Museum (Tunel Spasa). This saves you a trip from city centre later on, though you'll probably have to drag your luggage along. The museum is southside of the runway (the terminal being north), which they tunnelled beneath in 1993 to create a lifeline to the besieged city.

Getting there and away: By bus – Centrotrans bus runs daily between airport and Baščaršija in city centre. It runs roughly hourly 05:30-22:00, timed to connect with flights, taking 20-30 mins. A one-way ticket is 5 KM, return 8 KM, the first bag (up to 23 kg) per person is included and each extra bag is 5 KM. You pay on boarding the bus. It stops on request at central bus stops, which may not be specifically marked for the airport bus but they're usually next to tram stops. By taxi – Taxis are notorious for scams! To the city centre should not exceed 20 KM, although some drivers try for double that from foreigners. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km for 6–7 km; any "airport supplement" is bogus. Some drivers will refuse to use the meters; insist on them, and if they don't, then walk away. By trolleybus – This involves a walk of 600 m through the nearby neighbourhood of Dobrinja to reach the stop on Bulevar Mimara Sinana. You might want a map or a compass: the general direction is northeast with the terminal directly behind you, but it involves a zigzag. You exit the airport at the main gate onto Kurta Schorka highway. Turn right (southeast) and walk 200 m, there's no sidewalk. Take the first left, Andreja Andrejevića, and cut through residential Dobrinja passing near Hotel Octagon. Emerge onto the main road and turn right (again southeast) along Bulevar Mimara Sinana. On the opposite side (with westbound traffic) after 200 m, before you reach Mercator Center, is the bus stop Dobrinja škola B. Trolleybus 103 runs every 6 – 7 minutes daytime to Trg Austrijski, in the centre on the south riverbank, taking 25 min; walk across the Latin Bridge to come into Old Town.

Tuzla Airport is another way in, as it has budget flights by Wizz from across Germany and Scandinavia. The airport is 120 km north of Sarajevo. Or you can travel via the frequent standard buses to Tuzla, taking a leisurely 3 hours.

Tickets purchased onboard the train from Ploče (reservation not needed or possible but Interrail accepted) details on the Croatian Railways Website. Journey time is 3 hours.

The railway route you're most likely to use is the scenic Čapljina - Mostar - Sarajevo, with two trains a day, departing from Sarajevo at 07:15 and 16:46 and taking around 2 hours to reach Mostar. Three trains per week extend south of Čapljina into Croatia and the port of Ploče (which has transport to Dubrovnik, Split and the Adriatic islands) during summer months.

If your accommodation is in the west of the city, e.g. the Ibis Styles Hotel, then coming from Zenica you can get the local train to Sarajevo, which also stops at on Safeta Zajke. But it doesn't save much time or effort. The trains from Čapljina and Mostar trundle through this station without stopping.

By bus There are two bus stations in Sarajevo, Main Station for most long-distance services and East Station for Serbia and towns in Republika Srpska.

The driver will insist on exact change in one or the other currency pretty much at random, and then get picky about the denomination of the exact change you give him.

To reach East Station, take trolleybus 103 from Austrijski Trg to the end and then walk for 400 meters, or a taxi for around 15 KM. There are no controls to cross into Republika Srpska, it's just like crossing any internal border. There's not much at the station except a ticket counter and the obligatory cafe/grill. Travellers reported harassments by a drunk guy hanging around at the east bus station (see e.g. Google Maps Reviews).

Sarajevo East Station asks you to pay a station tax which is 2 KM per person (as of July 2024).

To go to the city, take the trolleybus 103 at Dobrinja. The trolleybus accepts KM cash only. 1.8 KM per person and 1.8 KM for luggage (as of Jan 2025).

There is no ATM nor exchange at TOM shopping mall (updated Jan 2025), go to Mercator Dobrinja (shopping centre) for exchange, and there are ATMs along Bulevar branilaca Dobrinje. There is another stop for trolleybus 103 nearby Mercator called Trafo.

By car The main route from the west is past Zagreb east on E70, then south on E661 to enter Bosnia and towards Banja Luka thence Sarajevo via the A1 highway from Zenica. You can also reach the city from the East via the suburbs of Ilidža or from the north via M18/A1 from the direction of Tuzla.

By thumb Hitching is easy to moderate, though make sure your sign is in the local language. Sarajevo is a long, thin city: if you can't get a lift into the centre, at least get yourself dropped by the tram tracks.

Get around

Sarajevo is a medium-sized, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is always possible, but much less so if you have a map; however, getting lost in Bascarsija's winding streets can be part of the fun, and may reveal some interesting surprises.

Very good free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centres and hotels. Some bookshops may also sell printed maps of the city. Map apps on a smartphone are particularly useful.

Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People might not know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything other than the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian; showing the driver on your map may be necessary.

Avoid driving in the Old Town. The steep and narrow streets, with a one way system, means you are likely to get lost and possibly damage your car. Also, it is next to impossible to find a parking spot.

For destinations farther from the center, such as Ilidža or Vogošća, trams and trolleybuses(tram line 3 and trolley line 105 respectively) provide good connections.

In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive. The city is mostly walkable, especially the city centre and the part of the city which is built on the slopes of Mt. Trebević.

Sarajevo’s tram network, operated by KJKP GRAS, is one of the oldest in Europe and forms the backbone of public transport in the city. The main line runs from Ilidža in the west to the city center and the railway and bus stations, following the main boulevard and passing through Baščaršija and Marijin Dvor. Trams 1 and 4 serve the central loop route, while Tram 3 continues the full length of the line to Ilidža.

The entire tram track network has undergone a major renovation, improving safety and comfort. GRAS has also procured 25 brand-new trams from the Swiss manufacturer Stadler, gradually replacing older vehicles. An extension of the tram line from Ilidža to the suburb of Hrasnica is under construction, with completion expected in early 2026.

Tickets are now primarily digital and can be purchased through the Javni prevoz KS mobile application, which allows users to buy and validate e-tickets directly from their phones. Paper tickets can still be purchased from drivers and digital ones can be refiled at GRAS kiosks, including: Kiosk Dobrinja terminal, Kiosk Otoka (trolleybus terminal), Kiosk Baščaršija, Kiosk Baščaršija

Single ticket (tram, trolleybus, bus, or minibus): 2.20 KM, Day ticket: 7.10 KM, Ten-day ticket: 50.00 KM

Public transport is free of charge for school-age children and university students.

By bus You would only use these for the few sights or accommodation well off the tram route, e.g. the airport and nearby Tunel Spasa, (see #Get in), Sarajevo East bus station or Vratnik district east of the centre, Buses 51, 52 or 55.

Bus tickets are always bought at the driver for 1.40 KM. You can not use pre-bought tram tickets in buses.

The planned departures of buses and trams can be found in the Moovit app (iOS, Android).

By bicycle At first sight only for committed urban cyclists: Sarajevo traffic can be as hostile to cyclists as it is to fellow-motorists, only with worse results. However, there are in fact separate cycle lanes along the river and/or the main west-east boulevard for more than 5 km, with the easternmost point being the parliament area / Muzeji tram stop.

Nextbike has a bike rental scheme here and in Tuzla. First you need to register and pay a 20 km deposit, easiest done online. It may take 24 hours to activate but if you're already registered with them in another country, you should be good to go. There are 14 pick-up / docking stations all along the tram lines out to Dobrinja near the airport, their map shows real-time availability.

Taxi scams are common especially at the main train & bus stations and the airport. Try to avoid using taxis when possible, as even supposedly legitimate operators can scam. All legitimate taxis have a "TAXI" sign on top, licence plates with "TA", and have a meter. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km, plus maybe 1 km for luggage, so a trip between Baščaršija and airport shouldn't exceed 20 KM. Pay in cash, the driver will issue a receipt upon request. Some official operators are

Paja Taxi 1522 or Žuti (Yellow) Taxi Samir & Emir Taxi 1516 Holand Taxi tollfree 0800 2023 The best way to find a reputable taxi is to ask a local person you trust which one they would use. Ownership and management of official operators can change frequently.

By shared electric scooter Renting an electric scooter is available in Sarajevo like in many other European cities. You can use the app BeeBee to access them.

See

With the exception of the Tunnel Museum and the Bosna spring, all landmarks are in or within walking distance of Old Town. Several walking tours are available, a free/tip based walking tour starts every day at 10:30 at the crossing of Gazi Husrev begova street and Mula Mustafa Baseskija street (address: Velika Avlija 14) and covers most of the Baščaršija (takes two hours).

The municipality of Sarajevo provides an app called "Guide2Sarajevo" (Android, ios). It's remarkably well made.

Avaz Twist Tower. The easiest way to orient yourself in the city is to look for this distinctive 176 m twisted tower, completed in 2008, and hosting the media company Dnevni avaz. There's a café-bar & restaurant on Level 35, reached by lift (free access). From there you pay 2 KM in coins to pass the turnstile and walk upstairs to Level 36, which has an observation deck with outside walkway. The café-bar and restaurant are smoky and the food & service aren't up to much.

Baščaršija is the historic district of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets, mosques and oriental-style shops at the heart the city feel like a world away from Europe when the call to prayer starts. You could be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church or a synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling copperware, woodwork and sweets. Many historic monuments are situated around Gazi Husrev-begova street.

Sebilj. Pseudo-Ottoman wooden fountain in the middle of an open square in the old town of Sarajevo. It was built by Mehmed Pasha Kukavica in 1753, and under Austro-Hungarian rule moved to its current location in 1891 by Austrian architect Alexander Wittek. Three replicas of the fountain exist, respectively in Belgrade and Novi Pazar in Serbia, and in St. Louis in the US. The fountain offers shadow and drinkable water. The surrounded Pigeon Square got its name from the countless pigeons swarming around. Feeding pigeons is allowed, and a seller with a trolley sells corn to tourists to feed the birds.

Sacred Heart Cathedral. The largest Christian cathedral in Bosnia, and the seat of Archbishop of Vrhbosna. It was built in honour of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in a Neo-Gothic style with Romanesque Revival elements, and modelled on the Notre-Dame of Dijon. Construction of the cathedral began on 25 August 1884, under Austro-Hungarian reign, was carried out by the Viennese contractor Baron Karl Schwarz, and supervised by architect Josip Vancaš. The cathedral was the scene of peace demonstrations in 1991 before the Bosnian War broke out, and subsequently damaged during the Siege of Sarajevo. The design above the door to the entrance is part of the flag and seal of the Sarajevo administrative canton and the Romanesque towers are featured on the flag and coat of arms of Sarajevo, making the building a symbol of the city. The niche above the portal features an octagonal rosette and a statue of the Sacred Heart. The interior of the cathedral was designed by architect Josip Vancaš, including the main altar which is made from Grisignano marble and rests on four columns of red Tyrolean marble. The frescoes were commissioned to Alexander Maximilian Seitz in 1886 but due to deteriorating health, they were only completed in 1887, and he died a year afterwards. Most of the actual work was undertaken by his assistant Alberto Rohden. A prominent feature is the grave of archbishop Stadler, the first archbishop of Vrhbosna, and the sculpture is of the hand of Marin Studin. The stained-glass windows ornamenting the cathedral were manufactured by the Viennese workshop of the Tiroler Glasmalerei (German for glass painting artisan). An English language mass is held on Sundays at 12:00. For candles, ask the information desk at the entrance (1 KM each). Photography not allowed.

Morića Inn. The only preserved Ottoman Inn (han literally means roadside inn) in Sarajevo, built in 1551, under the benevolence of Gazi Husrev-Beg's endowment (vakuf). It served as a caravanserai, able to accommodate up to 300 guests, 70 horses, and offered 43 rooms where travellers could spend the night. On 29 July 1878, the inn became the scene of the protest movement against the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Bosnia, and the People's Council (Narodni Odbor) was founded here. The building was damaged or destroyed by fires numerous times and rebuilt each time, notably in 1697 and again in December 1957 when the entire complex was burned to the ground. Reconstruction took place from 1971 to 1974, and Persian calligraphic inscriptions from poems written by Omar Khayyám, a 12th-century Persian poet, were added as decorations. The property ownership to the inn was returned to the Gazi Husrev-Beg endowment in 1998, and houses a carpet shop and traditional restaurant, occasionally hosts exhibitions and offers business space for purposes that match the historical context and purpose of the building. Stairs on either side of the inner patio allow visitors to reach the first floor with the rooms.

Clock Tower. The clock tower, at 30 metres, is the tallest in Bosnia, and dates back to the 17th century when it was constructed by Gazi Husrev-beg next to the mosque that also bears his name. The tower has a staircase with 76 wooden steps arranged in a square, and displays the time on all 4 sides. When Eugene Savoy of the Austrian army laid siege on the city in 1697 and looted it, the tower was set on fire, but restored in 1762. After the Austro-Hungarian occupation, the upper part of the tower was upgraded, and the decaying Turkish clock mechanism was replaced by a new one from Gillet & Johnston, made in London in 1873. The original clock mechanism was moved to the Vratnik mosque where it remains on display until today. The last upgrade dates from 1967, when the dials were gold-plated. A peculiarity of the clock tower is that it appears to be the only remaining clock tower in the world that displays the lunar clock (a la turca, lunar reckoning). This method of measuring time counts hours up till the moment of (astronomical) sunset instead of midnight, as with contemporary time calculation, so the hands are in the 12 o'clock position at every sunset, when a new day also begins. Since the setting of the sun is uneven throughout the year, the time needs to be manually controlled and recalibrated every 2 to 3 days. The task of recalibrating the clock was assigned to the muvekit (timekeeper), who used astronomical instruments in a special room called the muvekithana to calculate the position of the sun. The current muvekit, Mensur Zlatar, who works at a nearby jewellery shop, has been assigned the responsibility since 1960s. The exact timing of the sunset used to be an important moment for locals to schedule their time of prayer, but the original religious purpose behind the lunar time has long since had its meaning forgotten, causing many to think that the clock is simply bad at proper time keeping. In 2006, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments proclaimed the clock tower as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The tower cannot be visited, but it is possible to stand at its base by following the tunnel leading to Pekara Imaret right next to the tower.

Tašlihan. Tašlihan served as one of the three stone caravanserais in Sarajevo (the others being the Morića Han and Kolobara Han), the name literally translates to 'stone han'. It is believed that Tašlihan was the largest and most representative inn of its kind in the region, and built between 1540-1543 by craftsmen from Dubrovnik, who equipped the building with lead cupolas unlike the other two inns. It had a square foundation with sides of 47 m, guest rooms on two levels, and a fountain in the courtyard. Several fires damaged the building, and the last one in 1879 completely destroyed it. The last remaining bits of rubble were removed in 1912, except for the shared wall with the bezestan. When archaeological research was carried out as part of the 1998 renovation of adjacent Hotel Europe, the remains of Tašlihan were uncovered in the hotel's garden. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina by the Committee for the Preservation of National Monuments in 2004.

City Hall. Iconic pseudo-Moorish revival style building in Sarajevo, constructed between 1892 and 1894 under Austro-Hungarian occupation of the city. It was designed in 1891 by Czech architect Karel Pařík, but after disagreements with the ministry, it was Alexander Wittek who continued work on the project from 1892 to 1893 until he fell ill and died in Graz in 1894. The city hall was formally commissioned in 1896 by the City Authority which occupied the building until 1949, after it became the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On 25 August 1992, the building was set ablaze by Serbian shelling at the beginning of the Siege of Sarajevo, causing its destruction. Most of the 1.5 million volumes in the library's collection, of which 155,000 rare books and manuscripts were lost in the fire, despite civilian efforts to save them. It is now a national monument, reopened since 2014, and designated as a cultural building for protocol events, concerts and exhibitions.

Officers’ Casino. The Officers’ Casino was built in 1881 according to Karl Pařík’s design. It was the core of Sarajevo’s social life in late 19th and early 20th century. The Army Hall of Bosnia and Herzegovina has been used by the military ever since its establishment for various purposes, such as art exhibitions and public lectures. It holds two grand halls for receptions and cultural events, and was the venue of the first military music concert in the city, held in 1881.

Sarajevo has numerous museums on a variety of topics. The museums can offer an air-conditioned refuge from heat during Sarajevo's hot summers, or a place to warm up in the chilly winter months.

Brusa Bezistan. Small museum in a 1551 Ottoman silk shop, tracing Sarajevo's development from prehistory through Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. Its centrepiece is a model of the Old Town on the ground floor, made by Husein Karišik on the first floor there is a famous blue garment with golden threads and fine yataghan (short Turkish sword).

National Museum. Static displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina, including an exhibition of traditional Turkish-style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century, an extensive collection of insects and stuffed mammals and a large geology section with samples from around the world and a number of meteorites. The museum also offers access to the botanical garden in the middle of the four main buildings: (1) archaeology from the Roman period up to the nineteenth century, (2) Library, (3) Ethnology and (4) Natural sciences.

Sarajevo Museum 1878–1918. A small museum dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Sarajevo, which started with the Berlin Congress in 1878 and ended with World War I in 1918. The exhibition portrays life in the Austro-Hungarian era from different perspectives and themes. The time line ends with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie in front of the building. The few artifacts and photographs include wax figures of the Archduke and his wife, and what are claimed to be the clothes and gun of the assassin. The location itself is far more notable.

Svrzo's House. Part of the Sarajevo City Museum, Svrzo's House shows the living conditions of a Muslim family at the end of the 17th century. The house was built by the eminent Sarajevo family Glođo during the Ottoman occupation of the city, but ownership was transferred to the Svrzo family since the Glođo family had no male successors. The interior is divided in two sections: the public part (selamuk) and the family part (haremluk), which in turn is split in the traditionally separated living quarters for men, women and servants. Despite being constructed entirely of wood, the building was surprisingly well preserved until the Siege of Sarajevo during which it sustained heavy damage. It was rebuilt after the siege and reopened in 1997, and renovated again in 2005.

Gazi Husrev-Bey's Library Museum. In a modern building opened in 2014, the museum has a collection of over 1,200 items, displaying Islamic calligraphy, time-keeping and everyday objects of Muslim life. It's within the library which holds some 100,000 historic manuscripts, printed books, periodicals and archive documents, but these are only accessible to registered users.

Scars from the Bosnian War can still be seen in many parts of the city, as bullet holes in walls or abandoned buildings. The unresolved conflict (see box The Yugoslav Wars) left traumatic memories, and museums and memorials associated with the Bosnian War are scattered around the city.

Sarajevo Roses are scars left in the concrete from mortar blasts during the Siege of Sarajevo, filled with red resin. Around 200 can be found throughout the city. ICAR Canned beef monument In the vicinity of the National Museum and the Bosnian Historical museum. A giant can of beef meant as a sarcastic sneer at inadequate help from the European community during the siege. The infamous canned beef was inedible, and according to popular legend even refused by stray cats and dogs. The city was also supplied with 20 years out-of-date rations from the Vietnam war, and pork for a Muslim-majority population.

Tunnel of Hope. Sarajevo was besieged and bombarded from 1992, and by 1993 the blockade was total. Serb forces seized the airport, but handed it over to UN peacekeeping forces to avert international intervention. The UN used the airport to bring in humanitarian aid, but wouldn't allow any military support to the city's defenders, and they severed the city from Bosnian-controlled areas to the south. A secret tunnel was therefore dug between Dobrinja just north of the airport to Butmir just south: 340 m of true tunnel, plus covered trenches either side, totalling over 800 m. It enabled arms, munitions, oil and food to be brought into the city, and served as an evacuation route for officials and civilians. Later it was equipped with rail tracks, an oil pipe and electricity and telecoms cables. A museum has been built over the Butmir entrance, with 20 m of tunnel accessible to visitors, plus displays on the siege. City tours often include this museum.

War Childhood Museum. Opened in 2017, the museum has personal belongings on display that illustrate the experience of a childhood during the Siege of Sarajevo. An audio guide reveals the stories behind the items, complementing the exhibits with additional pictures, audio and video. Video testimonies of inhabitants who grew up during the war are also shown throughout the visit. Only around 50 are in the permanent collection at any time, but the book War Childhood offers a compilation of them all. The book is for sale in the museum or can be consulted for free in the library section.

Eternal Flame. Memorial site designed by architect Juraj Neidhardt, commemorating the victims of World War II with an eternal flame and inscription. The memorial was dedicated on 6 April 1946, the first anniversary of the liberation of Sarajevo from the four-year-long occupation by Nazi Germany and the fascist Independent State of Croatia.

Museum of crimes against humanity and genocide 1992-1995. Small but important museum about the genocide during the Bosnian Civil War of 1992-95. The human side of the conflict is portrayed with shocking pictures, personal testimonies and video. Complementary to the 11/7/95 Gallery, which focuses on the Srebrenica Massacre in particular. Warning: the photographs and video may, indeed should, be shocking. Parental advisory and visitor discretion is advised.

Gallery 11/07/95. A small but compelling exhibition about the Srebrenica Massacre of July 1995, when 8,372 people were killed. Events are described from the perspective of investigative journalists visiting the site of the genocide. The audio guide is highly recommended as there are no signs. Allow at least 60-90 minutes. Two screenings are shown which also last around half an hour combined. Watching the complete day-to-day (military) history of the events on the computers takes at least 1h on its own. The photos, video footage and personal testimonies are shocking; visitor discretion is advised especially with youngsters.

Cemeteries: those who died in the 1990s war were buried in pre-existing cemeteries. In these you find old Ottoman turbe, Austro-Hungarian dignitaries, casualties of two World Wars, Yugoslav citizens - and then row upon row upon aching row of simple white marble stones for people in their twenties slain in the latest conflict. A good example is (Alifakovac grobljanska cjelina) on the headland south of the river where it emerges from the canyon. See also Martyrs' Memorial Cemetery in Vratnik, and St Mark's (Groblje Sveti Marko) north edge of the city with the mausoleum of Gavril Princip.

Sniper Alley. Sniper Alley was the informal name primarily for streets Zmaja od Bosne Street (Dragon of Bosnia Street) and Meša Selimović Boulevard, the main boulevard in Sarajevo which during the Bosnian War was lined with snipers' posts, and became infamous as a dangerous place for civilians to traverse. The road connects the industrial part of the city (and further on, Sarajevo Airport) to the Old Town's cultural and historic sites. The boulevard itself has many high-rise buildings giving sniper shooters extensive fields of fire. Signs reading "Pazi – Snajper!" ("Watch out – Sniper!") became common. People would either run fast across the street or would wait for United Nations armored vehicles and walk behind them, using them as shields. According to data gathered in 1995, the snipers wounded 1,030 people and killed 225; 60 of whom were children.

Memorial for the Children of Sarajevo. Monument erected in 2009 by sculptor Mensud Kečo and dedicated to the 1,600 children who were killed during the Siege of Sarajevo. The monument is located in Veliki Park, and consists of a glass sculpture constructed by stacking individually cut layers of green glass with a total height of 5 m, and is 1.7 m in diameter at its base. In 2010, the names of 521 children were inscribed in seven cylinders of anodised aluminium and placed on a concrete plinth around the sculpture.

Bosnian Historical Museum. The museum was founded 70 years ago, but heavily damaged by shelling during the war and still in a perpetual state of disrepair. The exhibitions primarily focus on the war, but the presentation of the artifacts is outdated, and the museum lacks content overall. Some of the displays are worth a visit, at least if you are able to cope with the graphic pictures. The 11/7/95 Gallery and War Childhood Museum offer similar content for a much better value.

Museum of the 105th Motorized Brigade. A memorial dedicated to the 105th Motorized Brigade of the Bosnian Army, which took part in the defense of Sarajevo during the 1992-95 siege of the city. Since 1993, over 7,000 members have passed through the brigade, of which 312 were killed in action and more than 2,000 were wounded. The museum is housed in a renovated fortified tower at Pointy Rock.

National Gallery. Established in 1946 after the Second World War, the National Gallery contains over 6,000 pieces of art, with a focus on works of Bosnian interest. Interestingly, the gallery remained open and held exhibitions during the Siege of Sarajevo. It was closed in 2011 and reopened to the public in 2012. The permanent exhibition, Intimacies of Space, highlights Bosnian life from all angles.

Museum of Literature & Performing Arts. A small museum dedicated to the importance of literature and expressive arts in Sarajevo, with attention to prominent local writers and poets. Worth a visit to those interested in arts and literature.

Modern Art Museum. Museum for contemporary art, formed during the war as a "resistance of culture". It has 130 works by notable artists such as Italian painter and art theorist Michelangelo Pistoletto, Greek artist Jannis Kounellis, German performance artist and sculptor Joseph Beuys, and US conceptual artist Joseph Kosuth. Tatty concrete building, they hope for a new museum building by Renzo Piano someday.

Despić House. A dependency of the Sarajevo City Museum, constructed in several stages during different periods, the oldest parts dating back to the 17th century. The property belonged to the wealthy Serb Orthodox Christian Despić family, which donated the house to the city, which turned it into the Museum of Literature and the Performing Arts. It gained fame as the venue for the city's first theater performances, so it may be regarded as the precursor of modern theater. Together with Svrzo's House, the Despić House presents visitors with the lifestyle of wealthy merchant families that contributed to Sarajevo's growth and prosperity.

Festina Lente Bridge. A 38 m long pedestrian bridge over the Miljacka, opened in 2012, with an unusual loop in the middle. Seats in the loop invite travellers to sit down, enjoy the view and "make haste slowly."

The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.

Bosniak Institute. The institute is a cultural centre focusing on Bosniak culture. It was established by former Bosnian Vice President Adil Zulfikarpašić. The institute is housed in a renovated sixteenth century Turkish bath and includes a library and an art centre.

Presidency Building. The Territorial Government Building (today, the official residence of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina) was designed by Josip Vancas and opened in March 1886. The building is modeled after Florentine Medici Ricardi Palace and reflects Florentine Early Renaissance style. It also houses the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Ustavni sud Bosne i Hercegovine) and the Archives of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The Parliamentary Assembly Building. The Building of the Bosnian Parliamentary Assembly was commenced back in 1954, designed by the architect Juraj Neidhard (who was a close associate of Le Corbusier), and finally built during 1978–1982. At the time it was finished, the building of the Assembly of SRBiH was the only building for that purpose in this part of Europe designed in a modern style. Also houses the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina Directorate for European Integration. The building became an icon of the Siege of Sarajevo after it was shelled by Serb artillery and photographed while on fire in 1992.

Konak. The Konak was built as an Ottoman governors’ residence in 1868 in Late Baroque style during the rule of Topal Osman Pasha, an Ottoman vizier. It was built on a site of a former konak (an official residence in the Ottoman Empire). From 1878 to 1918 during the Austro-Hungarian occupation the Konak was the residence of the Habsburg family, and the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef resided in Konak during his visit in May, 1910. During the Yugoslav Republic (1918 to 1941) Konak hosted generals, governors, district-prefects and many politicians from around the world. Today, it is a state residence used by the members of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Central Post Office. Austro-Hungarian era post office, designed by Czech architect Josip Vancas, and opened in 1913. It is a monumental building with tall doors leading visitors into a classic caged foyer in Secession style, with some decorative elements resembling the post office of Vienna. It was damaged in May 1992 during the Siege of Sarajevo, but restored in 2001 under supervision of architect Ferhat Mulabegović.

Gazi Husrev-beg's Mosque. Beautiful medieval mosque at the heart of Old Town. Non-Muslims welcome, but dress appropriately and respect prayer times. It was built in 1530 / 1531 AD (937 AH) in what's called "classical Ottoman" or "early Istanbul" style. It was badly damaged in the 1990s wars, being targeted by the besiegers, but restored and re-opened in 2002.

Hanikah. A khanaqah is a Sufi lodge or centre for the study of Islamic mysticism. This one is a 1998 replica of the original built in 1531 with 14 study rooms, a simahana (room used for Dervish religious ritual), mihrab niche to indicate the direction of Mecca, and a šadrvan fountain in the inner courtyard. It's nowadays an art gallery.

Emperor's Mosque. This is the oldest mosque in Sarajevo, the first one to be built in 1457 after the Ottomans occupied the city. It is the largest single-subdome mosque in the country, constructed under supervision of Isaković-Hranušić who dedicated it to sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. It was destroyed at the end of the 15th century but rebuilt in 1565 and dedicated this time to Suleyman the Magnificent. The mosque was damaged again in the Second World War and during the 1992-95 Civil War, and restoration work on the painted decorations and interior are still pending. The adjacent cemetery hosts the graves of many former city viziers, mullahs, muftis, sheikhs and other prominent historical figures of Sarajevo. There is also a café inside the walls. The mosque is open to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman must cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque.

Ali Pasha Mosque. The mosque was constructed during 1560–61 as a vakıf (legacy or perpetual endowment) of Sofu Hadım Ali Pasha, the Ottoman former governor of the Bosnia Eyalet of the Ottoman Empire, after his death in September 1560. It was built according to the classical Istanbul architectural style. The dome covers the prayer area and three small domes cover the cloister. Because of its noble proportions it stands at the top of the scale of all sub-dome mosques that have been constructed in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the framework of the complex there is a domed burial site (turbe) with two sarcophagus of Avdo Sumbul (d.1915) and Behdžet Mutevelić (d.1915), Gajret activists who died in the dungeons of Arad. The mosque was heavily damaged by Serbian forces during the conflict of the early 1990s, especially the dome. The most recent renovation of the mosque occurred in 2004 and in January 2005, the Commission to Preserve National Monuments issued a decision to add the Ali Pasha Mosque to the list of National Monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Ferhadija Mosque. The mosque is named after Ferhad Bey Vukovic Desisalic, a Bosnian Sanyak Bey, who had the mosque built in 1562. Archaeological research into the painted decorations inside the mosque, carried out between 1964 and 1965, revealed 6 paint layers dating from different periods. The oldest and most valuable layer, found in the main dome, belongs to a group known as Rumi ornament, and dates back to the 16th century. Next to the mosque is a small cemetery, where members of the Janissary Order and of the old Sarajevan aristocratic families were buried.

Tomb of the Seven Brothers. The history of the tomb dates back to the founding days of Sarajevo, and it is assumed that a certain sheik who had arrived with the army of Sultan Mehmed II el-Fatih was the first to be buried at this spot. The sheik built his house next to the current tomb, and in his will asked to be buried at the base of his garden, with the remaining area used as Muslim cemetery. Later on, two dervishes were also buried here, falsely accused of stealing gold from the Sarajevo treasury in 1494. Over two centuries later, 4 army commanders who were accused of collaboration with Prince Eugene of Savoy in his raid of the city, were also buried in the tomb after, according to the legend, a heavenly light descended upon their grave as evidence of their innocence. Thus, the tomb unites the 7 individuals, who are brothers by faith rather than brothers by birth. In 1815 a wall with seven windows was built around the tomb, and a room for a tomb keeper was added. Some of the property was demolished in 1937, but the wall and tomb still stand today.

Hajji Sinan's Tekke. The tekke was built by Hadzi Sinan Aga, a wealthy merchant from Sarajevo, or his son Mustafa-Pasha, who was a silahdar (an officer in charge of the weapons) at Murad IV Sultan's Court, from 1638 to 1640. The tekke is comprised of several rooms: a room where zikr (the Dervish prayer) is performed, the sheik's residence, musafirhana (a visitor's inn) and an area for coffee making. In addition to regular Dervish rituals, the tekke gathered Sufis (mystics), who practiced tesavuf (mysticism) and studied works in Persian, Turkish and Arabic. Over a hundred inscriptions have been preserved at this site. Sinan Tekke’s greatest visual attraction is the calligraphy design on the wall of the courtyard, known as “Suleiman's Seal”, the rosette design is nearly three meters wide with the words, “There is no God but God, and Muhammad is his Messenger”, painted 12 times in the fresco style. In 1768, the first asylum for psychiatric patients was opened in Hajji Sinan’s Tekke, marking the beginning of organized health care in BiH.

St Anthony's Church. Roman Catholic church in Gothic Revival style, built 1912-14 on the site of previous versions. The current interior dates from 1960s, with works by leading 20th C artists including Meštrović. The church serves the adjacent monastery.

The Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan na Bistriku) next to the church was built in 1894, also in Gothic Revival style and designed by Karel Pařík. It's still a monastery and therefore seldom open to visitors, but its collection of paintings, sculptures, organ, manuscripts and books are occasionally put on view.

Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos. The Cathedral is the largest Serbian Orthodox church in Sarajevo and one of the largest in the Balkans. It is dedicated to the nativity of the Theotokos, and erected at the request of the Orthodox parish of Sarajevo, with construction taking place between 1863 and 1868. The church is constructed as a three-section basilica inscribed in a cross-shaped plan, and has five domes. The domes are built on the beams; the central one is much larger than the other four side domes. The church is arched by round elements. The small gilded baroque-style belfry is built in front of the entrance. The interior walls are decorated by painted ornaments. In the lower zones of the walls the painted ornaments are simulating the marble stone construction look. Arches and vaults are decorated in ornaments only. In 1898, the Orthodox Metropolitan Palace was built near the cathedral.

Old Orthodox Church. Also known as the Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel (Cyrillic: црква св. Арханђела Михаила и Гаврила) is a Serbian Orthodox church. It was first mentioned in Ottoman sources dating to 1539. The church was built on older foundations, and is one of the oldest sacred buildings in the region, built in a medieval Serbian-Byzantine architectural style. Its interior is known for outstanding woodcarving art, paintings, and contains the fifth largest collection of religious icons in the world with a total of 140 icons present, dating from the 13th to 19th century. Among its collection are also 13 historic books and 37 liturgical garment items. The bell tower was constructed in 1883 and renovated in 1960. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina in 2006.

Church of St. Joseph. Roman Catholic church with 3 bells designed by Karel Pařík in a Romanesque Revival style, funded by Pope Pius XI. Construction began in 1936 and the building was consecrated in 1940, during the early months of the Second World War. The triple aisled basilica is built on top of a sanctuary with a crypt containing the tomb of Archbishop Ivan Šarić. The high altar of St. Joseph and the terracotta Stations of the Cross were gifted by Pope Pius XII. There are a total of 15 tombs in the walls of the church, hand carved by sculptor Franjo Rebhan. The stained glass windows were designed by Ivan Marinkocić, but destroyed at the end of the war in 1945, and subsequently restored. It was damaged again during the 1992-95 Bosnian civil war, restored in the early 2000s, and classified as a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Church of the Holy Transfiguration. Orthodox church designed by Alexander Deroko and built in 1940 in Byzantine Revival style. It was originally planned to be built in Split, owning its resemblance to similar buildings along the Adriatic coast, but eventually constructed in Sarajevo instead and consecrated by Serbian patriarch Gravillo V. It is the primary place of worship for the 50,000 Orthodox Christians in the region. The church has been the target of numerous attacks throughout its history. It was heavily damaged during the 1992-95 Siege of Sarajevo but renovated in 2003. Reworking of the valuable frescoes began in 2004. In 2016, the church was set on fire by pyromaniacs, without injuries. It was targeted by looters again in the same year, and 2 rare icons were stolen.

Mausoleum of Gavrilo Princip. Cemetery of St. Mark, with a chapel doubling as the mausoleum of Gavrilo Princip, the assassin of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sofie at the Latin Bridge in 1914. Gavrilo Princip was buried here together with other Serb revolutionaries beneath the chapel. There is a plaque on the wall of the chapel to commemorate for eternity our Serb heroes.

Jewish The Jewish population was first established in 1492-97 when Sephardic Jews fled the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal, and settled here and in other Ottoman cities. The Ashkenazi Jews mostly arrived during Austro-Hungarian rule in the late 19th century. Inter-community relations were mostly amicable and the population was relatively unharmed by the First World War, collapse of Austria-Hungary and formation of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. By 1940, their numbers peaked at around 14,000, 20% of the city population. In 1941 the Nazis invaded, placing the country under the control of the Croatian Ustaše, who vigorously set about the deportation and extermination of minority groups. Those who could, fled to the west, and after the war most exiles remained abroad. Some 2000 Jews did remain or return, but when the 1990s civil wars broke out, there was a mass evacuation to Israel of Jews living in former Yugoslavia. Fewer than 1000 remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina today, perhaps half of them in Sarajevo.

Jewish Museum. This is housed in the Old Temple (Il kal vjezu) or Grand Temple (Il kal Grandi) built in 1581 for the Sephardic settlers. It's a three-nave building with the front area used for preaching and the upper floors for the women's section. It's mostly a story of harmony and prosperity, but the third floor relates events of 1941-45. The building was badly damaged then and in the 1990s civil wars but has been well restored.

The Jewish New Temple (Il kal muevus) next door, built in 1820, is now an exhibition space open Su-F 15:00-19:00.

Ashkenazi Synagogue. The Old then the New Temples were for the Sephardic congregation, so the Ashkenazi synagogue (nowadays the only functioning synagogue in Sarajevo) was built for that community in 1902, designed by Karl Pařík in Moorish revival style. It escaped Nazi destruction and features large arches with painted decorations and an ornate ceiling highlighted by a ten-pointed star. A stone menorah at the entrance commemorates the 400-year anniversary of Jews in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Tours are available in English on request.

Jewish Cemetery. The cemetery lies on the slopes of Trebević mountain in the Kovačići district of southern Sarajevo. It is one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in South-East Europe, and in use from 1630 until 1966. It was established by Sephardic Jews during the Ottoman period, and also became the burial ground for Ashkenazi Jews after they arrived in Sarajevo in the late 19th century. It contains over 3850 tombstones and stecci, as well as four monuments dedicated to the victims of fascism. It began as a medieval necropolis of stecak tombstones, as still exist in Jablanica and elsewhere in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Sephardi of Sarajevo created tombstones with a unique morphology, of which the symbolic motifs are not found on any other Jewish monuments elsewhere in the world. The cemetery was the front line during the Bosnian War, and was used as artillery position by the Bosnian Serbs. Several tombstones were severely damaged by bullets and explosions. It was also heavily mined, but completely cleared in 1996. In 2004, the cemetery was declared as National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

During Ottoman rule of Sarajevo, 13 bridges were built over the Miljacka River and Bosna River. Four stone bridges remain: the Latin Bridge, the Šeher-Čehajina Bridge, the Goat Bridge and the Roman Bridge.

Latin Bridge. Archduke of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Franz Ferdinand, was assassinated on this bridge on 28 June 1914, sparking the beginning of World War I. A plaque commemorates the event. On the bridge was a memorial to the assassin Gavrilo Princip, but it was removed during the 1992-1995 War.

Šeher-Čehajina Bridge. Built in 1585/1586 and survived major damage from flooding in 1619, 1629, 1843 and 1880, but was repaired each time. When the Miljacka River was dammed in 1897 to regulate the water flow, the riverbed was altered and one of the original 5 arches of the bridge on the left bank was buried, a subtle change that can still be seen by observers with a keen eye. According to the legend, the city's vizier Hadzi Husein had ordered to erect the bridge and embed a diamond in one of its pillars to finance future repairs. One night the diamond disappeared, and a poor young man confessed to have stolen it as a gift to a girl he fell in love with. Swayed by the love between the two and the return of the diamond, the man was released from prison, but the diamond was never embedded back into the bridge. In 2005, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments declared the bridge a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Roman Bridge. Crossing the Bosna River at the historic Western entrance into the city. It is the only preserved stone bridge over the Bosna River, and considered one of the most authentic Ottoman bridges in the country. It was built out of carved stone between 1530 and 1550 using lime mortar and stones from ancient neolithic, Illyrian and Roman settlements in the bridge's vicinity, most importantly the Roman village Aquae Sulphurae (Latin for sulfur waters) which served as the region's cultural and administrative centre. Numerous archaeological artifacts from that period (jewelry, coins, ceramics etc.) from the Roman period have been found around the bridge. Some of the stone tiles (kaldrma) have shallow engravings of Roman origin, from which the bridge derived its name.

Goat’s Bridge. Architecturally interesting bridge at the historic Eastern entrance into the city.

The bridge had an important ceremonial function, as it served as the place where each Ottoman vizier was welcomed by the previous vizier and citizens of Sarajevo. The bridge is constructed from white marble, has a single arc with two circular apertures, and is 42 m long and 4.75 m wide. The span of the main arc is 17.5 m. According to the legend, before the bridge's existence, a poor shepherd noticed his goats sniffing on a shrub along the Miljacka River. Upon inspecting the shrub, he found a treasure with golden coins, which he used to finance his own education. After he became wealthy and influential, he had the bridge constructed at the shrub where his goats found the treasure, which gave the bridge its name. The truth in the legend was lost in history, but the bridge was almost certainly built between 1565 and 1579, a time when the road network underwent major infrastructure upgrades under reign of Mehmed-paša Sokolović.

If you came to the bridge on the cycle/pedestrian path along the river by foot, you can continue the road after the goat bridge uphill to Vakuf Isa-bega Ishakovića (a view point) and then few hundred meters further on the cycle path to Pale turn right to Jarčedoli. Once you reached the , you'll have majestic views over Sarajevo, especially the hills and ruins on the opposite site.

From there follow many stairs and narrow streets down to Alifakovac which ends at the city hall.

In the 17th century conflict between Austria-Hungary and the Ottoman Empire, the decisive battle came at Zenta (now in Serbia) in 1697, when the Ottomans were routed, and their grip on central Europe was broken. The Austro-Hungarian forces then devastated Sarajevo before marching home. Further attacks were likely so a fortified city was built here 1727–1739, east of the old centre of Baščaršija. Later suburbs surrounded it, and the name Vratnik (probably meaning "gates") applies to this wider district, but the sights of interest are all in the Vratnik redoubt.

From Baščaršija either walk up Kovači past the war cemetery onto Jekovac and Carina (Buses 51, 52 & 55 run this way); or follow the river upstream taking the right fork just before the road goes into a tunnel, then ascend right for White Fortress or left for Yellow Fortress.

Martyrs' Memorial Cemetery Kovači. Here lie victims of the 1992-95 Civil War. The centrepiece is the tomb of Alija Izetbegović (1925-2003), first president of the independent Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The tomb is a dome suspended on 8 marble pillars, with a military honour-guard.

Museum of Alija Izetbegović. Small museum within the Ploča and Širokac gates of Vratnik, dedicated to Alija Izetbegović, first president of the independent Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina. He served 1992-2000, much of that time only nominally as he was besieged in Sarajevo in the early years, and overshadowed by the EU High Representative after the war. The museum has a library of Alija's work and a few personal items. The first floor exhibits his life, the passage between Ploča Gate and Širokac Gate exhibits his role as commander of the army. See also his tomb in nearby Kovači cemetery.

Yellow Fortress. Small bastion and cannon fortress, regularly smashed up and rebuilt. The latest renovation was in 1998, so it's a pleasant place to picnic and gaze over the city, but that's about all there is. Café Kamarija (adjacent on Pod Bedemom) is open daily 08:00-23:30, but their prices reflect the view.

Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.

Visegrad Gate. One of the three gate-towers of Vratnik, controlling the road east towards Visegrad and Istanbul. It was built 1727-1739 in limestone and Bosnian stone hreša with roof shingles.

White Fortress. This natural bastion had a fort at least from 1550, the nucleus from which the later fortifications of Vratnik were extended. It was rebuilt in the Austro-Hungarian period but nowadays is a shattered ruin, and not entirely safe - stealing the masonry for other buildings has done as much damage as later bombardments, such as in 1992-95. Good views over the city especially at sunrise / sunset, but don't get caught here in darkness.

Olympics Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. These (officially the XIV Olympic Winter Games) were the first held in a socialist state, although Moscow had hosted the 1980 Summer Olympics. Some structures remaining from that era are in a sorry state.

Olympic Museum. A museum aimed at the preservation of the memories of the organization of the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. From 1984 to 1992, the museum was located in the city centre, in a mansion owned by Nikola Mandić, former Sarajevo citizen and later president of Croatia during the Nazi occupation in WWII. Declared an enemy of the state at the end of the war, Nikola Mandić lost his life and property, and the mansion was donated to the museum by the Sarajevo city council. At the start of the 1992-95 Civil War, the building was shelled by Serb forces and damaged beyond repair. A significant part of the museums collection went up in flames. The remaining collection was salvaged and transferred to the Zetra Olmypic Complex, and in 2004 the new museum at its current location was opened to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the 1984 Olympic Games.

Skenderija. Tito-era cultural and sports centre on the south bank of the river, constructed in 1969 and opened with the premiere of the film Battle of Neretva. It was later expanded for the 1984 Winter Olympic Games, and features a market and shopping mall. Because of its concrete construction, it only sustained minor damage during the war, but gradually decayed afterwards due to neglect. In February 2012, after a record snowfall in Sarajevo, the roof of one of the halls collapsed under the snow pressure, which was estimated to be around 160 kg/m². The building was subsequently restored by the city and returned to service, and receives 500,000 visitors per year.

Do

Cable car. Restored in 2018, this cable car runs up to the former . The area boasts views, hilltop strolls, and a decent cafè. However, the ride could be considered a bit overpriced. Forest paths lead to the Pino Hotel (accessible by road, e.g. by taxi) and the pictureque and Instagram-heavy Trebevic Bobsled Track, which mad off-road bikers hurtle down, and which is being restored for winter sports. You could walk one direction to see the bobsled track, and use the cable car the other direction, since the slide is pretty much between the Ski Station and the city.

National Theatre. The National Theatre has a regular programme of plays, concerts and opera. It was built in 1899 as a "Gentlemen's Club" by Czech architect Karel Pařík, who contributed to over 160 buildings in and around Sarajevo.

Fox in a Box. Escape room games. In "Mr Fox's Secret Study", you try to escape from the office by solving riddles. In "The Bank Job", you try to steal diamonds from the bank safe, in the dark by torch. In "The Bunker", you try to avert an accidental nuclear war.

Inside the Siege: Sarajevo's Story of Survival. Guided historical tour focused on the Siege of Sarajevo (1992–1996), the longest siege of a capital city in modern European history. The experience explores important wartime locations connected to daily life during the siege, including Sniper Alley, viewpoints above the city, the Tunnel of Hope area and sites related to civilian survival. Visitors learn about the history of the conflict, the blockade of Sarajevo, local perspectives and the city's post-war recovery. Transportation to selected locations outside the city centre is included.

Skakavac Waterfall. Waterfall 12 km north of the city, above the Nahorevo Village. At 98 m in height, it is among the tallest waterfalls in Europe. Located in an area of exceptional natural beauty, surrounded by lush forests of spruce, beech and fir forests, the waterfall is worth a day trip if weather permits. A wooden pedestrian bridge takes visitors under the waterfall.

Dariva Canyon. An 8 km long promenade from the historic centre of Sarajevo to the Goat's Bridge, following the canyon of the Miljacka. The promenade is very picturesque, and the pedestrian-only route offers magnificent natural views which have been appreciated since the Austro-Hungarians built a railway through the Miljacka valley. There are 150 linden trees lining the promenade, planted by diplomats residing in Sarajevo at the invitation of the mayor. Some of the trees still have plaques bearing the names of those who planted them.

Sarajevo City Centre mall has a large play area for children; the BBI Centar has a smaller one. Both malls are slightly west of the city centre on the main road.

Spring of the Bosna River. The beginning of the river Bosna, where the pure and ice cold water surges out of the mountains. You can walk in the large, well-kept park, picnic and spend the whole day without getting bored. The 1st May festival, a public holiday in the country], is held here.

Sarajevo Zoo. A small zoo and recreation park at the outskirts of Sarajevo, primarily aimed at children. It is the oldest zoo in Bosnia and Herzegovina. During the Austro-Hungarian period it was located in Ilidza. There are 57 species of animals from all over the world on display, including lions, which were donated by the Sofia Zoo in 2013. A little train and several other attractions and playgrounds are available for the entertainment of children, some at an additional charge.

Sunnyland. A newly constructed bobsleigh track on Mount Trebevic overlooking Sarajevo, and adjacent restaurants and bars selling food and drinks. Excellent entertainment for children, with indoor playgrounds and facilities.

Sports Watch football (ie soccer) at Olympic Stadium. Multi-purpose arena built for the 1984 Winter Olympics, capacity 34,500, it's now the home ground of FK Sarajevo. They play in the top tier of national football, the Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina or "Liga 12". The national team also play home matches here.

Or watch football at Stadium Grbavica. This is the home ground (capacity 16,000) of FK Željezničar Sarajevo, who likewise play in the top tier Liga 12.

Ilidza Thermal Riviera. Water park with several indoor and outdoor swimming pools, wave pool, massage amenities and water slides. Slightly outdated infrastructure, but the natural sulphur rich water makes up for it on hot summer days. Sauna and fitness centre available at the adjacent Hotel Hills.

Isa-begov Hamam. Renovated hamam in the Isa-begov Hotel with traditional Ottoman steam room, water pool and massage facilities.

From May to August there are white-water rafting trips down the river Neretva. The usual base for trips is Konjic midway between Sarajevo and Mostar. Operators who do package day-trips from Sarajevo include Sarajevo Funky Tours, Sarajevo Insider, Meet Bosnia Travel and Balkland. See Sarajevo Region for the ski resorts of Jahorina, Bjelašnica and Igman, all about 35 km away.

Sonar compiles the city's regular calendar of events.

Sarajevo Winter International Festival. Winter counterpart of the Film Festival, with music, visual arts, film and video, performing arts and literature, plus a program for children.

Sarajevo International Guitar Festival. Eminent guitar players lead concerts, workshops and competitions.

Nights of Baščaršija: throughout July the old town centre has theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. Various locations but concentrated around Ćemaluša. First Day of Ramadan is celebrated every year in Sarajevo with a cannon shot from the Yellow Fortress.

Sarajevo Film Festival. Large summer film festival, various venues including the outdoor "Summer Screen". The Culture Centre has a box office, but book online if you can.

MESS International Theatre Festival. Festival for expressive arts, with special attention to youth and alternative subjects.

Sarajevo Jazz Festival. Large eclectic jazz festival.

Buy

Most shopping centres and upscale restaurants accept credit cards. Small cafés, clubs and souvenir shops mostly require cash, but might jib at notes larger than 20 KM.

There are many banks along Maršala Tita at the north boundary of Old Town, usually open M–F 08:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-13:00.

Markale Market. Market hall opened in 1895 and home to local meat, cheese and vegetable merchants: walnuts are a speciality. The market was bombed with great loss of life in February 1994 and again in August 1995. The first attack was a single mortar, and responsibility was disputed. The second was five rounds undeniably from Bosnian-Serb positions, and precipitated NATO military intervention in the conflict.

Pijaca "Ciglane". Interesting local market where you won't find any tourist.

In addition to the usual types of souvenirs, such as key rings, are more distinctive carpets and copperware, not all of which are locally made. Over a century ago, each street in this area hawked a specific ware: for example, one street had all the coppersmiths, shoes were on another, jewellery on another. An underground souk (open 08:00–20:00) stretches along the west side of Gazi Husrev-begova street.

Gazi-Husrev Beg's Bezistan. A covered market for haberdashery and craftsmanship, built during the Ottoman Empire period, with a design based on the design of the mosques. The bedesten serves as the central building in the historic commercial part of the city, and has its origins in the Greco-Roman basilica or kaiserion which served a similar purpose. During Ottoman times, the bedesten was of such economic importance that cities were classified under two categories: those with a bedesten, and those without. These days the focus is on low-end tourist tat and knock-off watches and handbags.

Isfahan Gallery. Persian carpet seller inside the Morića Inn. The handcrafted carpets are pricey, but the setting inside the reconstructed inn is worth a visit.

Sahinpasic. Has a decent collection of historical literature.

Baklava Shop Sarajevo. A wide selection of baklava in many flavours (walnut, almond, hazelnut, pistachio, etc.), where the baklavas containing orah (walnut) are considered to be the most traditional ones.

Kazandžiluk Street. The street is named after Sarajevo’s master coppersmiths, featuring shops such as Sakib Baščaušević and Aganovic.

Shopping malls Sarajevo offers numerous shopping malls, the most notable being the Sarajevo City Center in the commercial district. Most shopping malls in Sarajevo have been newly constructed or renovated, and offer a modern shopping experience comparable to that in malls in other European countries. Annoying pop music plays all day long.

Sarajevo City Center. Landmark in the commercial district, located centrally in Sarajevo along the boulevard connecting the airport with the historic centre of the city. Houses the largest shopping centre in the city, with 160 stores, countless restaurants and bars, and a luxury hotel.

Alta Shopping Center. Shopping centre in the commercial district of the city, with 70 stores. Famous for the Lego store inside.

BBI Center. Second largest shopping centre in Sarajevo, after the City Center with 125 stores. It won the ICSC European Shopping Centre Awards in 2011.

Bosmal City Center. Shopping centre on the south bank of the river with 50 stores.

Importanne Center. Smaller shopping mall with around 35 stores.

Mercator. One of the oldest shopping malls in Sarajevo with around 35 stores.

Grand Centar Ilidža. Ilidža shopping centre with 33 stores.

Eat

It is said in Bosnia that some people eat to be able to drink, others eat to be able to live and work, but true Bosnians work and live to eat. A lot of attention is devoted to the preparation and consumption of food in Sarajevo. Gastronomy in the city was developed under Eastern and Western influences, and Bosnian cuisine focuses on local produce like meat, vegetables, fruits and dairy products. For information on typical Bosnian foods, see Bosnia#Eat.

Cheap food on the go, from a myriad small shops and cafés, is burek, ćevapi or pita. Burek is meat pie. Ćevapi are grilled meats; the word derives from "kebab" and the traditional Sarajevo style is minced beef and mutton in a somun flatbread. Pita is a filo pasty or pie, typical varieties being meat (meso), cheese (sirnica, similar to ricotta), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvenica) and spicy potato (krompirusa).

City centre around the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

Buregdžinica Bosna. Pita & burek café, sandwiched between Mrkva and Bosnian House.

Fan Ferhatović. Pleasant ambience in the bazaar, good local food, friendly staff.

Ćevabdžinica Željo 3. Traditional Bosnian barbecue food. The atmosphere is great.

Sač. Authentic Bosnian cuisine with yummy burek and excellent pies.

Teraza. Pizzas and Bosnian sandwiches. Excellent location just heart of the city center with unique retro design makes you feel calm and relax. The food and the service are good.

The Epicentrum. Excellent homemade food, paradise tomato soup.

City centre around the Vječna vatra memorial

Pizzeria Ago. Good value pizzas, and pancakes at only 2 KM. Excellent pizzeria, great service and staff.

Srebrena školjka. Traditional Bosnian cuisine in a fabulous atmosphere, very very nice staff, almost like stepping back in time. If you're looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of the summer heat, this is it. The upstairs dining room has character and a great view down into the market. The owners are warm and friendly. The restaurant works even when the market doesn't.

Ćevabdžinica Nune. A little restaurant in the backyard of the main street Ferhadija. Super cute father and son shop with some of the best cevapci in town! Definitely a recommendation for a quick meal.

Chipas. Excellent food, fast service, very cultured and friendly waiters, everything clean and tidy.

Sedef. Traditional dishes, comfortable and quiet place in an alley. A very beautiful restaurant, the food is delicious and clean, and the service is amazing.

Cakum-Pakum. A little restaurant with great crepes. There is kind of a hype about this place. It's nice and cozy and has a wonderful interior design.

Pizzeria Maslina. Affordable with a diversity of cuisines, from Italian to Bosnian traditional food.

Petica Ferhatović. Popular but spacious serving fresh beef ćevapi. The waitresses wear traditional Bosnian dresses.

Ascinica ASDž. When you get sick of greasy meats, ASDž serves Bosnian-home-cooking, vegetable-based dishes (but don't expect vegetarian, as many are still flavoured with little meat). Order cafeteria-style at the counter: you pay by the plate, and can mix-and-match different foods onto the same plate.

Cappuccino. Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region. Good for a full meal, a snack or just a coffee.

House of Spite. The history of this restaurant dates back to the Austro-Hungarian occupation, when Sarajevo underwent large scale infrastructure projects which resulted in the post office, the National Museum, the Faculty of Law and many others. When the City Hall was to be constructed however, the Austro-Hungarians faced the stubbornness of an old Bosnian man named Benderija who lived in a house in that location. He refused to have his house demolished for the construction of the City Hall, and only after long negotiations he agreed to give up his property under 2 conditions: he wanted a bag of golden coins as compensation, and the house had to be moved brick by brick to the other side of the river. Since then, the building is known as the house of spite, and a symbol of Bosnian stubbornness and resistance against the government. In 1997, the house was converted to a lovely restaurant selling hearty stew-like meals and Bosnian specialities. A terrace offers a view over the river and the Sarajevo City Hall which it replaces. The house is decorated in oriental style, and worth visiting for the ambient alone.

A P Ǝ T I T. An "open kitchen" and a daily menu prepared from ingredients; meat dishes, fish dishes, risottos, pastas, imaginative salads, fragrant woks and delicious sweet pleasures. Also dishes for vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free offerings.

Dveri. Homestyle restaurant in heart of old Sarajevo. Very cosy feel, with strands of garlic, lots of delicious warm bread, hearty soups, meats, etc.

Mala Kuhinja. Tiny restaurant, only seats 15, owned by Bosnian celebrity chef Muamer Kurtagic. No menu: he prepares what is fresh each day and for any preferences. You watch the work in progress.

Restaurant Kibe. With stunning panoramic views of the city, Kibe Mahala offers a selection of national dishes, such as spit-roasted lamb, and a wide assortment of wines from Bosnia and Herzegovina and the region.

Restoran Brajlovic. At the water front of the Zeljeznica, offers an up scale selection of Bosnian specialities. Their cevapcici is popular.

Sarajevo Brewery. A large bar and restaurant near the Latin Bridge. Sometimes smoky and lacking ventilation, quality of service variable. The brewery also has a souvenir shop / museum.

Drink

Sarajevo has a vibrant night life with plenty of small thematic bars. Clubs are usually opened until early morning. Although many venues are open all week, Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the most frequented. There are numerous cafés in the city, centred primarily around the old town. Look out for the traditional Bosnian-style coffee!

Cafe Slastičarna "Palma". Coffee and pastry shop, located in the part of town called Hrasno, started in 1970. In 1985 "Palma" received the CD -Diplomatic Consular Code.

Ministry of Ćejf. Great espresso and well trained baristas. Also has karak and good cakes.

Miris Dunja. Coffee, including Bosnian coffee, and fruit juices. On a typical day the Bosnian coffee is very good, and on a good day it is extraordinary.

Mrvica. Coffee, brunch or even lunch

Mrvica Old Town. Coffee and different types of cakes and desserts. No Bosnian coffee served, only "modern" coffee styles.

Opera Bar/Café. Fast WiFi connection, but the staff can be unfriendly and inattentive. Attracts a community of casual actors and musicians.

Café de Paris. You might not have expected to find an IPA in the Balkans, but Café de Paris serves a selection of craft beers from Sarajevo microbreweries. They also have a range of very smooth local rakijas (try the quince). Riverside, outdoor seating looks out upon impressive architecture from the Austro-Hungarian times.

Tre Bicchieri Wine Store & Tasting Bar. Long list of Italian wines. Very cozy and comfortable place. Good music & relaxing atmosphere.

Sleep

You need to register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Your hotel or hostel should do this on check-in, but if you wild-camp or stay at a private residence, you need to organise this yourself. Failure to register doesn't normally bother the authorities but could result in a fine or deportation.

You can wild camp in the park by the River Miljacka. Chances are you'll see tents already there. Follow the road west and stay close to the river. In summer there is a public toilet. No guard or services. Locals may unofficially let you stay in their property, payment to be negotiated.

Haris Youth Hostel. Haris is the owner, friendly fellow who also owns a tourism agency near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own experiences from the war. The hostel is ten minutes uphill walk from the main square, worth it for the view and hospitality.

Hostel City Centre Sarajevo. Clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cable TV, free internet and wifi. They have 4- ,5- ,6- and 10-bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. You'll need to lug your baggage up 4 flights, no lift.

Motel Jasmin. Singles, doubles, triples with separate bathrooms and TV. Cleanliness very variable.

Hostel Ljubičica. The hostel itself is friendly, central for Old Town and usually clean. However it's also a travel & accommodation agency, and may place you in any of a number of dorms in the area; it may not be clear at the time of booking what you're getting.

Hostel Kod Keme. Small friendly guesthouse with private rooms, no dorm.

Pansion Sebilj. Most of the staff speak English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Good location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. But no internet, walls are paper thin, you can hear everything in the next room, and the downstairs bar plays loud music till midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear.

Hostel Tower. Clean & mostly friendly place, wifi weak. On two occasions in 2018-19, guests fell foul of the owner and were literally kicked out, with a boot to backside.

Hotel & Hostel Kan Sarajevo. Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sightseeing. From 40 KM.

Alfar Hostel. A small nice inexpensive hostel in the center of the city. No sign with hostel name outside, but find the address, go inside the building and you'll see the hostel name at the staircase entrance doors (with metal fence).

Garni Hotel Konak. Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include breakfast, ensuite bathrooms and internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms.

Hotel Hecco Deluxe. Business hotel with suites and terrace restaurant. The view alone makes the restaurant worth a visit whether or not you are staying there. It's on the top floors of a building that is otherwise empty, so it's a bit spooky in hours of darkness. Often smells of cigarette smoke.

Hotel Michele. In a quiet area. The staff are nice, breakfast and laundry included plus private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors.

Hotel VIP. Latin bridge is 300 metres from Hotel VIP, while Bascarsija Street is 300 metres away. The airport is 9 km.

Motel Sokak. It's small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside.

Opal Home Sarajevo. The four-star hotel with modern design and luxury interior. 12 comfortable rooms and 22 beds.

Pansion Stari Grad. A cozy hotel walking distance from the old town with friendly staff willing to help guests get around the city with maps and tips.

Hotel Terex. Small hotel surrounded by apartments in the residential area of Dobrinja, close to the Dobrinja commercial district.

Hotel Imzit. Basic hotel at the outskirts of Dobrinja at the foot of Suma Mojmilo hill.

Hotel Octagon. A lovely 3 star hotel in a residential area across from the airport, ideally suited for business travellers on a lay-over.

Hotel Holiday. Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speak English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great.

Novotel Sarajevo Bristol. Business hotel now part of Accor chain. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, three restaurants/cafés. Halal certified. Held in regard as one of the best large hotels in the city.

Hotel Central. Clean comfy hotel, and it is indeed central. With spa and fitness centre.

Hotel Colors Inn. Has 37 single and double rooms and a private parking.

Hotel Europe. Built in 1882 next to medieval ruins, it was renovated in the 2010s, elevating it to five-star premier boutique status. Used by many celebrities who come to work or visit the city, such as John Travolta, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The in-house Viennese Café is great, offering many Central European and local specialities. The hotel offers a view over the Tašlihan archaeological site next to it.

Hotel President Sarajevo. Located near the centre of the old town of Sarajevo. Hotel President offers 72 comfortable rooms, garage, breakfast room, Congress Hall as well as a Café/lobby bar.

Radon Plaza. Swish hotel, named after its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city's wealthiest people.

Hotel Espana. Hotel in a calmer residential area of Sarajevo on the territory of Republika Srpska.

Respect

Sarajevo’s cultural heritage blends influences from the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Yugoslav periods, resulting in a uniquely multicultural and multireligious city. Mosques, churches, and synagogues often stand within walking distance of each other, reflecting the city’s long tradition of coexistence. Visitors are generally welcomed warmly regardless of background, and showing respect for different faiths and customs is always appreciated.

When visiting mosques, modest clothing is expected, men and women should cover their shoulders and knees, and women are advised to wear a headscarf. Scarves are usually available for visitors to borrow at the main tourist mosques. Many locals identify culturally with their faith rather than practicing it strictly; for instance, some Muslims may drink alcohol or eat pork, while others refrain entirely.

While the Bosnian War (1992–1995) left deep marks on the city, Sarajevo today is peaceful and forward-looking. Conversations about the war, politics, or ethnicity can still be sensitive subjects, especially for those who experienced the siege firsthand. It’s best to approach such topics respectfully and only if your conversation partner initiates them. Locals generally prefer to focus on the city’s recovery, cultural life, and its growing role as a vibrant European capital.